VMFA117_Poko Posted April 8, 2009 Author Posted April 8, 2009 Don't know. What does "active PFC" mean? I will quote exact spec: Detailed specifications - TAGAN PipeRock Series TG600-BZGeneral Device Type Power supply - active Power Factor Correction (PFC) - internal Specification Compliance ATX12V 2.2/ EPS12V 2.91 Power Device: Input Voltage - AC 100-240 V Input Voltage Margin - + 10% / - 10% Frequency Required - 50/60 Hz Output Voltage - +3.3, +5, ±12 V Output Connector(s) 4 PIN internal power, 4 PIN mini-power connector, 15 pin Serial ATA power, 6 pin PCI Express power, power 24 pin ATX with detachable 4 pin section, power 8 pin EPS12V with detachable 4 pin ATX12V section, 8 pin PCI Express power with detachable 2 pin section, power 8 pin +12V with detachable 4 pin section Power Output Connectors Details 1 x power 8 pin EPS12V with detachable 4 pin ATX12V section ¦ 1 x power 24 pin ATX with detachable 4 pin section ¦ 1 x power 8 pin +12V with detachable 4 pin section ¦ 8 x 15 pin Serial ATA power ¦ 6 x 4 PIN internal power ¦ 2 x 4 PIN mini-power connector ¦ 1 x 8 pin PCI Express power with detachable 2 pin section ¦ 1 x 6 pin PCI Express power Power Provided - 600 Watt
Ramstein Posted April 8, 2009 Posted April 8, 2009 (edited) Power, how many rails and voltage per rail, and further I would read reviews on that particular PSU. Those are what interests me the most. Then the connectors, warranty, etc.. all the other info is the standard info... :joystick: after reading, the way they wrote the specs, and digging, it appears it may only have 2 12v rails.. I always go with at least 3 12v rails. I looked at: Tagan Easycon XL Series TG600-U35 - power supply - 600 Watt (discontinued) http://reviews.cnet.com/search-results/tagan-easycon-xl-series/1707-5-32528215.html I know yours is a slightly different model. I do not know the Tagan brand. it says it has 4 12v rails. I don't see how many amps on each yet.. looking.. I think the values one typically needs in a PSU are (approximately) 1 12v rail with 30 amps, and 2 12v rails with 20 amps each (these are the standard values in the ballpark of what a typical computer needs for gaming). That is with a 3 12v rail PSU. usually ATI and Nvidia websites have an approved power supply list they publish to meet the needs of each of their video cards. I don't have a link at the moment. I would also look on maybe: http://www.guru3d.com/ and http://rage3d.com/ forums. So far, your PSU looks good. From what I have read, but I only spent 10 minutes looking. that leaves your heat problem... I hope you get those Video card temps down to at least: 160 degrees F. which is about: 71 degrees C. Edited April 8, 2009 by Ramstein ASUS Strix Z790-H, i9-13900, WartHog HOTAS and MFG Crosswind G.Skill 64 GB Ram, 2TB SSD EVGA Nvidia RTX 2080-TI (trying to hang on for a bit longer) 55" Sony OLED TV, Oculus VR
AsRockSD Posted April 8, 2009 Posted April 8, 2009 (edited) I've started to get this error now too.. One thing for sure it's not due o heat as my 4870 only hits 65c for the regs and 50c ish for GPU. My problem started when i changed from my Samsung 204B to a larger 37" TV panel. How ever it did work for about 4 days then just stopped. Game just crashes on startup and never actually makes it into game. EDIT: Typical as i decided to post i got it working by re selecting ratio and monitor res. I changed it to the wrong res and ratio then changed it back and all good now :). Maybe the file got corrupted or some thing ?. Edited April 8, 2009 by AsRock+SD Asus Maximus Formula ( Rampage bios ) | Q9550 \Xigmatek HDT-S1283| G.Skill 2x2GB | AxeRam 2x2GB | HD6970 | 3xWDYS250GIG Raid0 | M25-X Raid0 | TEAC exturnal DVD |TOSHIBA 40" 1080p LCD HDTV| PC Power & Cooling 750 Quad CF Edition |TIR4 |TT Armor.
Ramstein Posted April 8, 2009 Posted April 8, 2009 (edited) I have a Samsung 46" LCD HDTV and I don't have to adjust anything. It is connected to my Radeon video card using HDMI cable. It just plays fine and never needed any adjustment of any kind.. I have no clue why anyone would have any problems using the LCD HDTV with the Radeon video card. In fact it could not work any better.. the Radeon Catalyst Control panel works perfect with my Flight Sims.. and all other apps I have... :D I've started to get this error now too.. One thing for sure it's not due o heat as my 4870 only hits 65c for the regs and 50c ish for GPU. My problem started when i changed from my Samsung 204B to a larger 37" TV panel. How ever it did work for about 4 days then just stopped. Game just crashes on startup and never actually makes it into game. EDIT: Typical as i decided to post i got it working by re selecting ratio and monitor res. I changed it to the wrong res and ratio then changed it back and all good now :). Maybe the file got corrupted or some thing ?. Edited April 8, 2009 by Ramstein 1 ASUS Strix Z790-H, i9-13900, WartHog HOTAS and MFG Crosswind G.Skill 64 GB Ram, 2TB SSD EVGA Nvidia RTX 2080-TI (trying to hang on for a bit longer) 55" Sony OLED TV, Oculus VR
Infiniti3d Posted April 8, 2009 Posted April 8, 2009 (edited) Was reading the previous posts in this thread, and i noticed that the 600W PSU was metioned as a possible cause. Poko24 has tested his rig with one card and one stick of ram and has no overclocks applyed to his rig, PSU is good. If the PSU was the problem he would get overheating in there and a thermal shutdown performed by that same PSU. @Poko24: You are playing at pretty high resolution so that could cause your cards getting hot, try playing the games wich normally crash at slightly lower resolution to see if that lowers the temp. You also sayed that you never changed anything in the BIOS, you might check if all power saving options like speedstep and other VANDERPOOL options are disabled, if not disable them. And again for the time being, keep one card in and one Ram module running at the settings i mentioned earlyer and take it from there. Keep in mind that many people that have instabillity problems, getting more problems becouse they change all kind of settings, damaging PCI and ram slots by swapping card and modules in and out. And in the end they didn't know what they changed:) Here's a pic of the power saving BIOS menu. http://img168.imageshack.us/img168/6126/15030100975l.jpg Disable everything exept multicore processing . Its neccesary to do so, otherwise you system is throttleing randomly. Its most likely that it isn't solving your problem but it give's alot more punch, it will prevent that your CPU will clock down to a much lower speed. Power supply - active Power Factor Correction (PFC) - internal. Means you PSU can output 600w maximum but it does only when hardware starts to draw that power, for instance: In windows on desktop the PSU will output someting like 300watts, but when you start a application like a game the GFX card starts to draw power from the PSU, raising the load on the PSU and the limit in your case is 600W. All modern PSU have a PFC to decrease the bill you recieve from the electric Company. Edited April 8, 2009 by Infiniti3d 1
Kuky Posted April 8, 2009 Posted April 8, 2009 (edited) Poko, I found pic and good spec info on the PSU. Seems it does have 4x 12V rails each has 20A rating MAX Also review (in German) here: http://www.pc-experience.de/wbb2/thread.php?threadid=26874 says following: ... • Gehäusematerial: Stahl . • 600 Watt Gesamtleistung. • 140 Watt kombinierte Ausgangsleistung (+3,3 und +5 Volt). • 576 Watt (48 Ampere) kombinierte Ausgangsleistung (+12 Volt). • universeller Weitbereichseingang: 100-240 VAC für unterschiedliche Stromnetze. • maximale Belastbarkeit der einzelnen Strom-Schienen: • +3,3 Volt: 24 A • +5,0 Volt: 24 A • +12 Volt V1: 20 A. • +12 Volt V2: 20 A. • +12 Volt V3: 20 A. • +12 Volt V4: 20 A. • -12 Volt: 0,8 A. • +5 Volt Standby: 3 A • ATX Version: 2.2 . • EMV-geschirmte Kabelstränge. • Aktiv PFC (99%). • 1x 135mm Lüfter, kugelgelagert. • Kabelmanagement mit beleuchteten Ports. • Turbo Mode Switch zur Zusammenschaltung der 12V-Leitungen. • Dual Trafo Layout. • OCP (Over Current Protection) - Schutz vor Stromspitzen. • OTP (Over Temperature Protection) - Überhitzungsschutz. • OVP (Over Voltage Protection) - Überspannungsschutz. • OPP (Over Power Protection) - Überlastungsschutz. • UVP (Under Voltage Protection) - Unterspannungsschutz. • SCP (Short Circuit Protection) - Schutz vor Kurzschlüssen. • Standard-PS/2-Abmessungen (B×H×T): (150×85×160) mm. • Gewicht: ca. 2,9 Kg (ohne Verpackung). • Fertigung nach RoSH Verordnung. • MTBF: ca. 100.000 Stunden bei 25°C. ... What I find interesting is that it says there is total of 600W MAX output but then it says it can do140W on 3,3 und +5 Volt rails and 576W (48A) on +12V rails so don't know what to think of that. Since you have 2 separate cables for PCI-E connector (one 6-pin another 6+2 pin) it means you should have 20A on each one... which should be enough I think. Need to check now how much power does each HD3850 draws... EDIT: looking at few reviews on HD4850 and it seems system with C2D QUAD CPU and 2 sticks of DDR2 and other standard hardware with HD4850 might take up to 250W for the whole system... so even if this went to 300W for the whole system I don't think the HD4850 would use more than maybe 120-150W on its own meaning 20A on each PCI-E rail is more than enough for power the cards. This is though if the 4x +12V rails indeed have 2x for PCI-E each. If the PCI-E are shared and on same 12V rail then it would not be enough, but since you can run them both I am sure this is not the case. I would be looking at your GPU temps now... Edited April 8, 2009 by Kuky Windows 11 Home | Asus TUF Gaming B850-Plus WiFi MB | AMD Ryzen 7 9800X3D + LC AIO 360 | MSI RTX 5090 LC 360 | 64GB PC5-48000 DDR5 | 1TB M2 SSD x2 | NZXT C1000 Gold ATX 3.1 1000W | HOTAS Cougar+MFG Crosswind ... and waiting on Pimax Crystal Super VR headset & DCS MiG-29A release
VMFA117_Poko Posted April 9, 2009 Author Posted April 9, 2009 Thank you all. Really appriciate your help. PSU things is black magic to me. I'll try testing games with lower resolution. I played 1920x1200'cuz my lcd has it as native res.
Yskonyn Posted April 9, 2009 Posted April 9, 2009 With my x1950pro I talked about earlier I had no problems with most games, only a few would give me the atixxx.dll errors. I had no trouble with heat, nor PSU either. If those two things check out well on your system, then maybe its just some inconsistency in the ATi drivers which generate trouble with a given system setup/game. What else is there left to research after you confirmed the GPU temp remains ok as well? [sIGPIC][/sIGPIC] Asus Z390-E, 32GB Crucial Ballistix 2400Mhz, Intel i7 9700K 5.0Ghz, Asus GTX1080 8GB, SoundBlaster AE-5, G15, Streamdeck, DSD Flight, TM Warthog, VirPil BRD, MFG Crosswind CAM5, TrackIR 5, KW-908 Jetseat, Win 10 64-bit ”Pilots do not get paid for what they do daily, but they get paid for what they are capable of doing. However, if pilots would need to do daily what they are capable of doing, nobody would dare to fly anymore.”
VMFA117_Poko Posted April 17, 2009 Author Posted April 17, 2009 I bought nVidia GTX285 and problem has gone... I think I won't get back to ATI products again.
Boberro Posted April 17, 2009 Posted April 17, 2009 Good to know this... I wanted to buy in near time ATi product... now I think I stay with nVidia like always. Reminder: Fighter pilots make movies. Bomber pilots make... HISTORY! :D | Also to be remembered: FRENCH TANKS HAVE ONE GEAR FORWARD AND FIVE BACKWARD :D ಠ_ಠ ツ
VMFA117_Poko Posted April 17, 2009 Author Posted April 17, 2009 It could be a fault of my PowerColor's cards but too many similar problems I saw on net. I have no idea what caused mine and haven't found solution. I gave up :(
Anhel14 Posted April 19, 2009 Posted April 19, 2009 Hello Poko24, I think the AF on NVIDIA or ATI Drivers is the Problem..i have the same Problem with my Nvidia 9800 in Lockon and BS......( AF OFF)........ Gut Luck
VMFA117_Poko Posted April 19, 2009 Author Posted April 19, 2009 No, believe me. I tried everything: AF on, AF off - everything.
Anhel14 Posted April 19, 2009 Posted April 19, 2009 Hello Poko24, for me Helps...bad try the Ram riegels set manual in Bios not AUTO.... like my (DDR2 800mhz - 4-4-4-12 latenz - 1,9 v)... Gut luck 1
VMFA117_Poko Posted April 19, 2009 Author Posted April 19, 2009 Hi! Tried setting RAM timings manually too, thanks :). Besides, it's little too late for a new ideas 'cuz I already bought GTX285 and I'm very happy with it. Thanks for everyone's help. I really appreciate :)
EtherealN Posted April 19, 2009 Posted April 19, 2009 nVidia is the way to go. :) I've been (mostly) loyal ever since they pioneered (sort of) proper drivers for unix systems. [sIGPIC][/sIGPIC] Daniel "EtherealN" Agorander | Даниэль "эфирныйн" Агорандер Intel i7 2600K @ 4.4GHz, ASUS Sabertooth P67, 8GB Corsair Vengeance @ 1600MHz, ASUS GTX 560Ti DirectCU II 1GB, Samsung 830series 512GB SSD, Corsair AX850w, two BENQ screens and TM HOTAS Warthog DCS: A-10C Warthog FAQ | DCS: P-51D FAQ | Remember to read the Forum Rules | | | Life of a Game Tester
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