Complete ignorant news wants to build a P-51D trim box :(

[WildBillKelsoe]

Hello,

I'm very interested in creating a trim box with as much CH products accuracy as possible. However, I have no idea about anything, nor do I have any soldering experience, nor the tools needed. Completely new to the field.

 

I was thinking about a wooden box, with the leo bodnar controller you used, but does the potentiometers connect by wire to it? what about power, is there needs for power, or is it derived from Mobo?

 

 

http://www.leobodnar.com/shop/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=65&products_id=203

 

I'm lost here: There is 12 bit joystick controller, 12 bit joystick board, and load cell joystick controller. Which one is used? what is each one for?

 

 

 

Here is some pots I found, I think I need a multi-turn pot, or a hall effect one (for DCS P-51D) in general:

 

http://www.potentiometers.com/

 

http://www.potentiometers.com/select_precision.cfm

 

http://www.potentiometers.com/select_multi.cfm

 

http://www.potentiometers.com/select_mil.cfm

 

and this one, what do you think of it:

 

 

http://www.potentiometers.com/HRS100.cfm

 

 

and which one of these knobs would you recommend:

 

http://www.potentiometers.com/select_turn.cfm

 

probably oak wood would house the components. Am I missing something?

 

 

 

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BU0836 10-Bit Joystick Board

BU0836A 12-Bit Joystick Board

BU0836X 12-Bit Joystick Board

BU0836-LC Load cell Interface

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SLI-Pro Wheel Display Controller

SLI-M Wheel Display Controller

LagTester

Pedal Cable - DFP, G25, G27

Shifter Interface - G25, G27

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Li-Po Charger

[Rahband]

 

Watch this video i you might find it helps.

[zaelu]

Because DCS has many aircrafts with trim controls on HAT buttons as well as some on knobs/wheels I made my trim box with rotary encoders. This gave me the possibility to have both things on same physical control.

 

The encoders have two controls for turning them in each direction and one for pushing them vertically... basically I also have reset trim axis on the same axis if I want. This is the case for P51 where we can have reset trim for each individual axis.

 

Also if I don't need the trimmers (like in Ka50) I can use those commands for something else.

 

The down side of this is that for example in P51 I need to turn a lot of times the knobs of one encoder to have the trimmer moving a few degrees because of very small indentation for each "click". But also I have better control over them cause I could count how many clicks of trim I put in one axis.

 

And the really bad part is that the system is a bit more complicated for some with little or no soldering experience :) ... but still doable.

 

P.S. The encoders being completely digital have no spikes or other bad sides of the potentiometers.

[Sokol1_br]

... nor do I have any soldering experience, nor the tools needed.

 

Soldering required by this kind of project is simple and is easy to do, see this

tutorial: http://www.aaroncake.net/electronics/solder.htm

 

Buy a 30/40 Wats iron, solder wire, solder flux, and practic with spare wires first.

 

I was thinking about a wooden box,

 

Pay atention to thickness of the walls of wooden box, if too thick difficult fit the potentiometers.

 

with the leo bodnar controller you used,

 

BU0836A or BU0836X (IMO-the last features dont worth the additional cost, since anyway you need do solder in another end of wires...

 

but does the potentiometers connect by wire to it?

 

Yes, just 3 wires like in the drawing.

 

Note that you dont do soldering direct in controller (BU0836A...) pins but use provide 3 way conectors and solder the wires in them:

 

http://www.leobodnar.com/shop/images/2BU0836A_08.jpg

 

what about power, is there needs for power, or is it derived from Mobo?

 

Derive from Mobo by USB interface cable (A/B printer cable).

 

http://www.leobodnar.com/shop/index....roducts_id=203

 

I'm lost here: There is 12 bit joystick controller, 12 bit joystick board, and load cell joystick controller. Which one is used? what is each one for?

 

All are the same USB conttroler - the second include additional easy fit connectors for wires and multiplexers to eliminate diode use.

The third provide suport for one load cell sensor (like one used in precision scale), to make "brakes" in racing sim controllers.

The first two are adequated for the project.

 

If you go to use multi turn pot's use one "Turn-Counting Dials" or will be difficult know if trim are centered, ie. before flights.

 

Consider Zaelu tips about use encoder instead pots. :thumbup:

 

Sokol1

[WildBillKelsoe]

zaelu and sokol, what do you guys think about this hall effect pot?

 

http://www.potentiometers.com/HRS100.cfm

 

 

or these?

 

http://www.potentiometers.com/select_multi.cfm

 

 

and what about that turn counting knob pot?

 

http://www.potentiometers.com/MW22.cfm

 

so an encoder is more good than a pot, why?

 

thanks

[WildBillKelsoe]

OK I'll answer my self after some digging..

A pot has a limited range of rotation. Meaning that you turn it till it locks left or right. The encoder is like the pot, except it does not have a limit (think of car radio volume knob. You turn it to infinity and if you cross the maximum volume it can raise, it will still turn).

 

From those few facts, I think I'll go ahead with pots (apologies to Ms. Pots of Iron man hehehehe), a teensy 2.0 and solder kit for basics. I'll post progress in this very thread and that of tjhowse (if he permits it).

[Sokol1_br]

A pot has a limited range of rotation.

A common pot typically turn 270 degrees.

 

Are the so-called "multi-turn" pot - essentially a ordinary pot coupled in reduction gear - so for each knob turn the pot' wiper advance only ~ millimeter, achieve great precision. But notice that allow a limited number of turns, e.g some model allow 10.

 

Encoder is a fine solution, but :D you need a USB controller that handle encoder (e.g. L.Bodnar BU0836 up to 16, if not buttons are used).

 

A Teensy 2.0 is a good and relative cheap option, but you need write of find a firmware that handle encoders - most that exist are only HID device (8 axis, 32 buttons + POV HAT).

 

MMjoy firmware for Teensy 2.0 (dont work for Teensy ++ 2.0) say that support for 4 encoders (and 8 x 12 bits axis and 64 buttons - 8 used by encoders):

 

http://code.google.com/p/mmjoy/

 

Good luck.

 

BTW - In a couple of months your project will will make birthday. :smilewink:

 

Sokol1

Edited March 4, 2014 by Sokol1_br

[WildBillKelsoe]

I am reviving this old thread after I read a few about microcontrollers.

 

What do you guys use if you want to make a radio panel and want DCS to output the frequencies on a LCD display? should I use a pot or rotary encoder to tune the radios? I know a pot has a limited range of travel but a rotary encoder doesn't. Effectively, our car radio volume knob is a rotary encoder, yes?

[Sokol1_br]

To make a LCD display you need a controller with Output ability.

 

Sample: http://simhq.com/forum/ubbthreads.php/topics/4173826/F3_I/O_controller_KREML#Post4173826

 

should I use a pot or rotary encoder to tune the radios?

 

First you need look at the plane for what the options you have in controls.

Some allow use pot/joy buttons/keys to control radio, other planes can have not all these options.

 

With a custom code (e.g. Arduino) and using resistors you can make a potentiometer send key/button press, if no analog (pot') option is available. But in that case use a Encoder is more easy - if you have a controller compatible with Encoders.

 

A Rotary Encoder is a solution to handle controls that need keypress or joy press, but with a rotary device to mimic the real one.

 

Effectively, our car radio volume knob is a rotary encoder, yes?

 

Typiycally a volume control use a logarithmic potentiometer, but with today electronics you find audio controls done be... encoders. :)

[WildBillKelsoe]

Sokol, thanks for your reply. I am thinking leo bodnar with 8 dual rotary encoders with incremental detents ratio 1:2 and 3 linear 200K pots (for P-51D).

 

I don't know if 200K would be in excess but there is an option for free turn (360 degree non stop pots too, also I think from leo bodnar). I kind of want to have detents for setting trim but somehow I think pots are better for trimming (might even CNC a large wheel with 0.25 inch diameter fit for these pots). Something to gain the best control through larger arm (like centrifuge machine)

 

I am not very familiar with programming but can learn. leo bodnar seems like a plug and play option in dcs. what do you think?

 

My project aims to control P-51 trim tabs (pots, thinking 200Kohm linear pots) and tune radios or so in UH-1H). Remember I am starting (not even with solder experience), so leo bodnar looks like I need to just solder the 3 terminals to wires and twist the ends into a V and plug these into bodnars clips.

[Sokol1_br]

For USB controllers - like L.Bodnar ones use 1~100k pot' - better stay in 10~50k.

 

The general rule is: little pot value more amperage is consumed from USB (what can be a problem if several are used), high value more noise (spikes) on reading.

 

Instead this 360 degrees pot on Bodnar page - is for racing sim wheels - use the called multi turn pot', a pot that for a small advance in reading values is need several turns on knob, thus good for trim.

 

L.Bodnar boards is a "plug and play" option, but handle only inputs (buttons, axis) not is output - don't send information for display.

 

Bodnar boards is perfect for your trim box project and learn about. :thumbup:

 

I am not very familiar with programming but can learn.

 

Are several work already done, take a look at HELIOS, DCS Bios to don't wast time "reinventing the wheel". :D

 

Anyway for inspire: http://arduino.svglobe.com/a_output.html

Edited October 10, 2015 by Sokol1_br

[WildBillKelsoe]

thanks Sokol. I will get multi turn pot and leo bodnar as u suggested. try first with P-51 if I like. I dont need output like video on page u show me. I need pure input.