Teej

That sounds odd. I wonder if you're missing a switch flip. I'm just mucking about playing with stuff...I've barely looked at the manual (just to see how far off base I was with my functional, but guessed rampstart). This is the result of a landing. There's no voiceover, just me thumping it down on the numbers and hauling it to a stop. Pretty boring, i know...that's why I haven't shared it. I was just messing around and wanted to show something to a friend of mine. Probably be pulling this back off youtube soon. I just bought it last week after building my new system, and I've only flown it a few times (too busy) so no critiquing my technique. ;)

Sweet! Hope what i put ya through helped, but regardless - awesome!

Ah, there it is. ;)

OK, so I forgot about pumpernickel's stick. OTOH, there's a total of 5 people in this thread with problems, and one of them was fixed and another returned his rather than deal with it. Here's my tally: jsk - throttle - 3 days - fixed with firmware rasputin - returned 59th Bird - throttle Stanger - unspecified - did not get fixed Pumpernickel - stick So in this thread there are 2 people with dead throttles and 1 with a dead stick. I've seen approximately 3 more throttle problems on SimHQ...but I don't know if the usernames map over to any of the above.

Short answer is you can't do what you want without TARGET in any sim that wasn't written to understand the Warthog (ie anything but DCS A-10C). Without TARGET, the switches are either one button or two buttons (2-way and 3-way switches respectively). The EAC arm/off switch, for example, is one DX button. When the switch is 'on', the DX button is on. When the switch is off, the DX button is off. Thus, you'd have to find a way to make BS understand the release of a DX button as a command to turn off master arm...which I don't believe it can do. TARGET will take the simple on/off state and turn it into separate off->on and on->off transitions, and allow programming accordingly. Doing what you want in TARGET is really quite simple. Suppose you wanted to make the EAC be master arm on/off. You'd doubleclick the 'ARM' position, and tell it what keystrokes to use to turn on master arm. Then do the same thing for the off position.

I had sent this as a PM to pumpernickel...but I guess I'd be curious on anyone else's response, too... Got something you might try. But first, I'm curious... 1: What OS are you on? 2: How often do you do a full, actual, power-off reboot? (No judgement here - I reboot as seldom as I possibly can...) 3: What was your stick plugged into when it stopped working? (directly into motherboard, usb hub, hub on something else such as monitor, etc) 4: What have you tried since it stopped working, besides the eeprom test from TM? I would suggest, in order: 1: Shut down computer, unplug Warthog, remove mains power from computer for at least 10 minutes (ie don't just "turn it off", make sure it gets no power and isn't in some sort of soft-power state). Power up and when Windows settles down open up the control panel game controllers applet and plug your warthog bits in one at a time directly into the computer's motherboard. See what shows up and what doesn't. 2: If that still doesn't go, then with both pieces plugged in, open up registry editor (start / regedit) and drill to HKEY_LOCAL_MACHINE/system/CurrentControlSet/Enum/USB. See if you see two entries marked: VID_044F&PID_0402 VID_044F&PID_0404 The first is an entry for the joystick, the 2nd is for the throttle. Close registry editor. let me know what you find here. Note that I am in no way affiliated with TM support - anything they suggest should take precedence over what I'm trying to do with ya. T

On the contrary, "random different issues" occurring over a longer period of time indicate design flaws...such as the 360's inadequate cooling, and how it lets go in various places. Individual electronic component issues (sensors, processors, memory, etc) tend to follow what's referred to as the "bathtub curve". When you look at the population as a whole, there's a higher 'infant mortality' followed by a long steady period of few errors before parts start hitting end of life and the errors rise again....when plotted, the curve of failures vs time looks like the cross section of a bathtub. Can't say for sure yet, but compared to the two scenarios above, the problems with the throttles so far tends to indicate a problem with a batch of chips rather than a design flaw. If we start to see the same number of throttles die in the 3rd, 6th, 12th, etc week as have died in the first week...that would swing indications towards a design problem. I did also actively try to duplicate the problem with all sorts of strange plugging/unplugging sequences of my Warthog, power off, power on, (un)plugging both at once, each before the other, several times in rapid succession etc. Mine wouldn't fail.

Sarcasm received. However, we had about as mixed up a bunch of hardware as you could get. Until this past week, I was running on a 5 year old C2D e6600 setup with a 5 year old install of XP. Others in the team had newer and older (!) hardware, with everything from XP to Win7. Several of us are now on Win7. Some had standalone pedals, some had TM Elites running through their Cougars. We are also not the only ones who were testing the units...including some non-US globalized europeans. We were also primarily testing pre-production units. There are a few things different (generally better...and minor...mostly cosmetic...but still, they weren't 'precisely' the same as the ones on the market). At my last count there were about 6 people in the forum who had experienced failures of their Warthogs...and at least one of them had his get fixed through the firmware flash. That's out of well over 100 people who've posted in the WH owner database thread here alone. That's a < 3% failure rate (since every Warthog is 2 units and nobody's had both devices fail...come to think of it I haven't heard of any stick failures, it's all been throttle) overall...or less than 6% on the throttle alone. Microsoft would be _ecstatic_ about a failure rate below 10% on the xbox 360. I think the gaming community would have a collective heart attack if they achieved 6%.

For those who read that and think "What's he saying? It's all Greek to me!" Well, you're right. ;) He's saying it's the Alpha and Omega...the first and last letters of the Greek alphabet. The beginning and the end. ;)

That was taken from J. Bill Dryden's "Semper Viper" articles on the F-16. (The guy who literally "wrote the book") May not be the best way in the A-10, but in a jet that's not done flying yet (like the F-16) it's a superior means of flaring because the jet is all too easy to balloon up on you and waste lots more runway.

Yeah. If the FPM drops off the HUD, it's time to start worrying about your speed. :D

IMHO it's not even fundamentally wrong, at least as regards the landing evolution. If you have the nose pointed above the horizon, there's a wide range of power settings where the speed won't vary much. If the power is low, it will descend...at a given power setting it will fly level...and with more power it will climb, all without changing airspeed vary much. That is the condition you're in when you're landing. Changing the attitude will alter the speeds necessary for the climb/level/descend process. If you fall out of the power curve (speed too low to recover) or power out of it, then yes, you will escape from the region where "power controls altitude, pitch controls speed". To think of it graphically... If you fly with the nose at 0 attitude, you'll have to be going really fast to not lose altitude (and that's assuming you have flaps down and/or positive incidence in the wings. If the wings are 0 incidence and you have no flaps, you won't maintain altitude at any speed). As you pull the nose up, the speed required to maintain a given glideslope drops...until you exceed the wing's max AOA and you stall. Thus every aircraft has a desired AOA for landing. If you're following the glideslope with your AOA too low, you will be "too fast" and you "slow down" by getting the nose up. That's why I say "the speed will be what the speed will be". The "right" speed is whatever speed your plane wants to go with the proper AOA on a ~3 degree glideslope. Don't worry about the speed.

Suit yourself. But the real A-10 & F-15 have plastic throttle handles. As to the "flat spot / divot", let me put it like this. Take a small flashlight ('torch' to you I guess) of standard design (a couple of cells inline to power it...the 'maglite' brand we have over here is an example of what I mean) Stand it up with the bulb pointing down. Grab the flashlight like a joystick and tip it around. You'll notice that there's a small bump when you go through the pure vertical position where it would stand on its own. That's _exactly_ how the Warthog feels, minus the spring tension. For good reason...that's essentially how the mechanism hits center.

Oh yeah...I'd also suggest a great way to "flare" is to just goose the power a bit. As you're crossing the threshhold, add enough power to make the flight path marker walk down the runway a bit...you're just trying to decrease sink rate a bit.

For what it's worth, I haven't flubbed a landing yet and it's because I landed precisely the same way I've been landing (and teaching people to land) Falcon for years. 1 - be at the proper altitude. If you're not seeing the near end of the runway at about -2.5 to -3.0 on the pitch ladder, you're not at the right altitude. 2 - Dirty the aircraft. Once you've got the near end of the runway at about -3 degrees, point the nose up/down as needed to put the velocity vector on the near end of the runway, too. Concentrate on slowing the aircraft below landing gear speed (about 250 I think). Get the gear down, "landing flaps", and full speedbrake. As your aircraft slows, bring the nose up to keep the velocity vector on the near end of the runway. When your nose is about 5-6 degrees up, feed in power to maintain that flight path and hold the nose as steady as you can. Use trim to make it easier. With a dirty A-10 you're going to need a high power setting to keep it flying. When you later start trying to land with weapons, only then might you actually need to close the brakes a little bit. An empty airframe with full fuel (which is how you should now be practicing) can (and should) be done at full brakes. 3 - Fly your approach with the nose at about 5 degrees above the horizon (A bit lower than in an F-16 where I'd say ~ 8 degrees) 4 - Vary the power to walk the velocity vector onto your desired landing point. 5 - Speed? Hell if I know. Speed will be what speed will be. It will vary based on how much you're carrying in weapons and fuel. I couldn't care less what number is displayed. The following were written/recorded with Falcon, but the principle is the same. Paul Wilson's excellent text based tutorial: http://www.87th.org/modules.php?name=Sections&op=viewarticle&artid=22 My video tutorial:

I suppose there must be something different about yours. I wouldn't have thought so about the NXT in general (for the same reasons). I just know I put a few flying hours on both a stock Cougar and my FCC Cougar using the Warthog's handle this summer and never had a glitch.

Incorrect. I've done it. Works fine....with both the early pre-production Warthog stick and the release version. Only thing that doesn't work is the Cougar base doesn't know how to deal with the new button press (H4 push)

Oh, I know. Actually we went to Toronto right around that time and were getting 1.6-1.7 CAD/$US exchange rate. :D Sometimes 2:1 at street vendors. And more to the point, you said: So even if you paid $600CDN, at the time that was the equivalent of $400 US at most.

No way. NFW. I'm 41. You're senile. Here's Gamespy's comparo from 11/2002. http://archive.gamespy.com/hardware/november02/pcspecial/ And PC Gamer from 2/2003 I remember it well because I was just getting back into Falcon at the time due to the SPx releases (having been disappointed in v1.08 of course) and for the dollars I had to spend, the Cougar lost out to an X45 ($80), TIR v1 ($120 as I recall) and something else that was right around $100 but I don't recall at the time.

For that kind of money I sure hope you got lube.

I've had VAC for years and used that a lot with F4AF. Even had a voice macro that would do a ramp start. :D

Then there are those of us who remember having to overclock to get to 5mhz.

Well, that's not there, but this version of TARGET now allows you to exclude your Cougar from assimilation into the virtual controller. You can thus map the pedals through Foxy like you used to.

Sweet. :thumbup: Just wish i'd noticed the 'view script' button before I'd tracked down my problem the hard way. Fortunately I didn't have to go too far down the path to find my issue. :detective_2:

Except if he does that, and saves it, he ends up with a .tmc file that he has to run as a script (.tmc instead of GUI .fcf file) and continue to edit as a script and/or make that change every time he alters his profile. "fixing line 18" isn't the solution. Far better to do like this as I referenced... Look up whatever uses the numpad period ("KP_.") if you don't know offhand...then change the event to a USB[99] instead of 'KP_.' like this... Check the 'use usb codes' check, then click the keypad . and save the event. Done.