Blue73

Thanks RustBelt for explaining the process, my laser is 2.5W LED laser so only good for engraving.

I had resolved this issue by adding a member function "pollInputCurrent " to switches.h. Unfortunately it's been overwritten, but from memory it was just the same as pollInput except it doesn't check for a state change. I called the function for each control during Setup(), something like this, Edit: I also called it within onAcftNameChange() and called it every 40000 cycles in case it was missed during init. class Switch2Pos : PollingInput { private: const char* msg_; char pin_; char lastState_; bool reverse_; void init_(const char* msg, char pin, bool reverse) { msg_ = msg; pin_ = pin; pinMode(pin_, INPUT_PULLUP); lastState_ = digitalRead(pin_); reverse_ = reverse; } void pollInput() { char state = digitalRead(pin_); if (reverse_) state = !state; if (state != lastState_) { if (tryToSendDcsBiosMessage(msg_, state == HIGH ? "0" : "1")) { lastState_ = state; } } } public: Switch2Pos(const char* msg, char pin, bool reverse) { init_(msg, pin, reverse); } Switch2Pos(const char* msg, char pin) { init_(msg, pin, false); } void pollInputCurrent() { char state = digitalRead(pin_); if (tryToSendDcsBiosMessage(msg_, state == HIGH ? "0" : "1")) { lastState_ = state; } } }; For your code void setup() { DcsBios::setup(); ahcpTgp.pollInputCurrent(); //... do for all control types, add member function to all classes. }

Hi All, Electronics are now complete and tested for the wing fold handle. I found that the two surrounding magnets created a psuedo south pole next to the sensor so they had to be removed. Still has a good detent feel so no issue. This is the electronics "saddle" that wraps the mechanism. Sensors installed and apposing magnets removed. The top cover is removed here to show the magnet arrangement. cheers John

Cheers mate. Yes it is the radar alt, but it's not complete yet. I play in VR so other than the rotary dial the rest is not necessary. However I am planing on making this gauge fully functional, I have some new techniques I'd like to try. The complete design has been sketched just need to model it in F360. Yes I certainly do use Andrew's F-18 DCSBIOS library. cheers John

Nice setup, with VR it doesn't matter about aesthetics, as long as your brain believes it, it's good enough. Love that wheel placement, reaching out for a landing gear in VR is really cool, the tactile feedback really enhances the immersion. If you look on page 7 I have completed the left hand console including the gear. I checked the NATOPS reference, I think the Hornet only has a mechanical stop and gear doesn't pull out and in, I'm not sure though I'm probably wrong on that. I haven't implemented the twist to activate the emergency gear action. My aim is to build this 'desktop' modular pit using nearly 100% 3D plastic parts. I've trialed embedding fishing lead weights into the wing sweep handle to give the handle more inertia. That plus the magnets is turning out well, I may go back and retrofit my other controls with techniques I've learnt along the way. I do like how the Hornet's flap toggle switch is right beneath the gear handle. On full burner take-off it allows for quick gear retraction and flaps up.

Grab Fusion360, it has a free license option, all my work is done in there. cheers John

Cheers mate :) Did the same a couple years back after watching James Bruton robot builds. Bought a cheap Chinese printer shortly after but spent more time fixing the printer than printing. Out of sheer frustration with the print quality and number of failed prints I bought the Zortrax. Best move I could have made.

Hi, The wing fold lever is mechanically built, just need to wire up the HE sensors. The magnets work very well, it feels like it's all metal under the hood, good positive lock on each position. Below is a diagram that shows the design using magnets and HE sensors, it's easier than trying to put into words. Printed plastic parts with brass guide rods. Assembled parts. Merry Xmas everybody! cheers John

Let the fun begin! I've used mine to print spare parts for many things around the house. From garden sprinklers/retic connecters, equipment stands, feet for my soundbar, replacement part for the toilet, Oculus camera and hmd stands, roller wheels for my heater, egg tray to fit a fridge compartment, book stand, broken plastic part replacement, etc. It is good having a printer around the house, it can give you a solution to problem for nothing more than a 30 mins in F360 and a few hours on the printer. cheers John

Hi All, The first draft design for the wing fold mechanism is complete. Just need to thread the handle beforeI can begin the first print. It makes liberal use of magnets in a N-S-N-S pattern around the rotation axis. This will give me a good positive lock for the three positions (Spread/Hold/Fold.) Each half position produces a N-N and S-S line up which should make it pop to the correct position. The arm has a north and south facing magnet with an apposing side. I plan on using a variation of this design for the air bleed dial. Five HE sensors are used to determine the handle's location. cheers John

Cheers :) I used white modelers putty for my Hook lettering, it works well as it's water based so clean up is easy. When I used white paint it found it's way into the 3D printed crevices. I'll try the putty technique again for the Buno plate. The top surface can be sanded smooth with a filler/primer applied to give you that smooth look. 3D printing allows for surface features not possible with an acrylic sheet. Ideally I'd like to combine laser engraving with a 3D printed plate. I haven't even began experimenting with it yet, if all else fails I'll go the acrylic route.

I'm planning on heading down this route. How many watts is your laser to cut the outside perimeter? Do you use Inkspace to generate the paths and G-code? Apologies goslin23 for hijacking your thread.

This is amazing work mate, best I've seen!

Thank you Brewnix, that works!

Thanks for the link RightStuff, I've used the SVG Inkspace method to do wrap around text so this will also work for this font. I'll be using a CNC for my font engraving anyway and this is all in Inkspace.

That was awesome Mover! Thanks for sharing.

I was just about to respond to RightStuff with that, the font is not recognised in Fusion360, I had to go with another font for my embossed panels.

Thanks RightStuff, as everything needs to be designed from scratch progress is slower than I'd like. It's literally head down, one foot in front of the other at the moment.

Thanks Battis!

Hi All, I've been working on the electronics to drive the fan. Made a mount to house the bus transceiver, Arduino and fan drive unit. It slots into the lower bars. I first tested using the fan's PWM control pin, I had to abort that idea as this fan has a non zero RPM with 0% duty cycle, I want more control on the low end so I'm supplying the PWM drive current. It's isolated as usual with an optocoupler. This fan can really push the air but is quiet at normal speeds. Updated CAD model. Completed electronics, just need to cable the bus lines to the white sockets. Here's the top section and duct attached to show how it all fits together. I didn't build the 3D supports properly so the printing got a little rough towards the top. Not an issue as this is the back frame. Completed air box. I've spread the air vertically by angling the lower guide sections. You can see this in the CAD cutaway diagram above. cheers John

Your first test looks great. Can I ask which font you used? Also is that sanding dust that's whitened the lettering? cheers John

Hi All, I've had to change direction with the whole air unit design. I had completed and installed the right hand air unit, but the second set of 40mm fans made it too loud. The single set on the left was okay but with the right, it's too much. So I'm breaking my modular design for the air unit. It is an add-on to the upright frame so it's optional. The frame itself will become a slave unit. This is still work in progress so I'm not certain it will be the final solution. This is the fan suspension mounts that inserts between the bars of the base. The 3d printing layering locks this in tightly with no glue. Here's the mounts installed with the elastic bands to provide mechanical isolation with the frame. No fan vibration is transferred to the frame using this method. The San Ace 80 fan mount. Fan is hooked into the bands using 3d printed T mounts glued to the fan base mount. Upper and lower air ducts. The upper duct is a prototype and will be molded into the upper frame. It has guide vanes to evenly rotate the airflow 30 degrees. The lower will be glued to the base of the upper frame. To prevent the transfer of vibration, no physical contact is made with base of the duct and the fan. Mock-up that shows roughly where the ducts will be installed. cheers John

I've used that technique with hex nuts and a soldering iron. The plastic melts around it locking it in place.

Hi, The main purpose was to strengthen the dimension in-line with the layers. But since designing this I've discovered the wonders of acetone with ABS. If I had to do it again I certainly would key the sides so they mesh together then acetone and sand the parts. My newest switch headers for the Hornet are a single block of plastic with pins driven through the toggle to secure it in place. Though I certainly wouldn't be drilling any holes through my Warthog switches. Also the black guides are now much smaller, almost a 1/5th the size.