Х-stounds

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Та же болезнь.

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Попробуйте перезайти в игру, всё наладится, у меня давно на мустанге такова не было

А что, визуалка хоть и старая, зато точная, точнее чем у тех же "аэрософт" я смотрел модель, там лопатки компрессора стоят перед основными стойками шасси... учитывая что там Sобразный забоник....:D

I give you an example of only the settings from the very "open track". Here are my camera settings in the very "open track and showed you how my diodes look at different focusing. And speaking of the camera settings, I meant if you have a focus twist on the camera itself?

Then the reason is already clearer to me, I use "Sony PS3 Eye camera" and infrared diodes. Any diodes tend to flicker, if I remove the anti-aliasing parameter in the filter, my camera will also twitch, and the stronger the zoom the more appropriately the jitter will be. Another question is whether you have a focus setting on your camera lens? On the camera "Sony PS3 Eye camera" you need to try to set a lens between the two marks of the focus, although there is no fixed position, the image of the diodes becomes clearer, but it does not help to completely get rid of the jitter, the very jitter in my case smoothes the "Optrek filter" and smoothness movement I provide the setting of the axes.

This is very strange, in fact, these parameters create a curve for the dead zone. If you stand up the dead zone manually, you will have a step in the center position, and the camera passing through the center will bump into this notch. With my settings, the camera moves smoothly and does not swing by itself, everything depends on the smoothness of the movement of the head). In this case, I would like to see the recording of your window with diodes, maybe they uvas flicker strongly, and also tell me which camera do you use?

This is a matter of habit. As I said, you can adjust not only the filter but also the saturation and intensity of the axis itself. You can adjust the axis so that it is very fast and sharp, but the full deflection of your head corresponded to a slight rotation of the camera. Or vice versa, so that it rotates smoothly and at a greater angle, there you can tune in as you please and as you like. Sometimes it is useful to keep the object in the padlock, press the centering of the camera, and already work with your head, or follow your head regardless of the object, but it works more on the ground, but if you are shooting the plane at high angles, use the padlock.

I think that now is not the time to discuss the color of its fairing on the game screenshots, this is still WIP. Let's see what will happen when it is finished, or at least will be released in early access.

As a rule should. Although initially these pylons were designed for AIM-9, they were later re-equipped with a new rail, and AIM-120 was hung there as an anti-flatter load, although you already know that .. :) And of course with HARM he usually always carries HTS

And I also advise you to disable the asymmetric setting of the curves.

Hello again, I'm sorry that there is a "Russian" interface, but I think you will not get confused. First here is my daily flight profile, I use smoothed dead zones and the "Accela" filter. The same camera settings, just in Yaw Pitch Roll etc.......... Next, here is my profile for shooting video For this profile, I advise you to use the filter "EWMA" This filter is simple and quick to set up, and most importantly very effective. With these parameters you can make the inertia of the camera movement, make it either sharper and more rigid, or smooth and inert, it smoothes all the notches when you turn the head smoothly, it helps a lot. You can also add "curves". As for the settings of the axes, I don’t use the dead zones anymore, but you can also experiment with the saturation of the axes themselves, depends on what you need, smoother camera movement, for example, "during strong zoom" or more sharp and saturated movement, for example, the span of the camera next to the plane. Yaw Pitch Roll X etc. at your discretion

If you use "OpenTrack" I could try to drop one of my profiles to you, or take screenshots of settings.

А скриншот с Ф-35 это пример хорошей графики? Там же земля чистый рисунок и нет динамического освещения как такового, самолет выглядит как прифотошопленный не имеющий к фону никакого отношения, потому что свет так сделан. А спуститься пониже, мне даже страшно представить что я там увижу.

Сирия ты хотел сказать?

https://vk.com/video-42331_456241026

На Dшках часто такое.

Ну понятно... 50 оттенков серого, от золотых фонарей тоже со временем отошли. Блоки 40 на фото на сколько понимаю, ну и база Авиано как бы намекает)).

А, я понял. F-16CJ / DJ Block 50D / 52D это доработанная версия Block 50/52 с компьютером бортового радиоэлектронного оборудования и интерфейса для автономной работы AGM-88 c контейнером AN / ASQ-213 HTS. Она была выпущена чуть позже блока 50/52 и в последствии все самолеты модернизировали до этого стандарта. А блок 30D это тоже модификация, тогда произошло разделения производства на 2 двигателя F-100, F-110. Из которых вторым требовался новый воздухозаборник. На основе Блока 30 по моему так же сделан F-16N для самолетов Агрессоров.

D обычно называется 2х местный вариант.

Обтекатель у него родного серого цвета почти как фюзеляж, но он должен темнеть со временем а не зеленеть.

Это у них РД-33 или мне кажется?

Кнопка есть есть, называется "АG Target Undesignate" находится под мизинцем на РУСе, так же выполняет функции NWS (nose wheel steering) и FOV Toggle. Клавиатурная команда "Правый Win+N" По поводу сайдармов насколько знаю - БАГ! Который висит с момента выхода этого самолета, и его не могут победить, или не хотят. Надо будет попробовать, помню раньше после первого пуска, они просто переставали захватывать источник излучения.