HawkMedic126

i started a thread a few months ago to detail my headset customization. if you have any questions feel free to send me a pm. [url=http://forums.eagle.ru/showthread.php?t=92403][/url]http://forums.eagle.ru/showthread.php?t=92403

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I don't have any experience with the Acer, but I do fly with an HP Compaq L2105tm touchscreen. Its 21.5 inches, 1080p, and plug-and-play with Win7. I've been using it for a year now with no problems. Couldn't be happier with it. http://www.amazon.com/Compaq-L2105TM-LCD-Touch-Monitor/dp/B002VJL0RA/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1343691529&sr=8-1&keywords=l2105

Sounds to me like you're moving your head past where the TIR receiver can "see" the track clip. Once you go outside the field of view of the TIR it tends to go a little crazy. Have you tried to adjust your curve settings in TIR so you don't have to turn your head as far to get the view you want?

I started off with a prototype using an old cell phone lithium polymer battery, 3.7v. You can still see the velcro left over on the headset in the pic above. The thing I didn't like about that was the added weight to the headset felt odd. As it turns out the battery inside the headset is the same 3.7v LiPol which is why I decided to make everything internal. This is the original type battery I used: http://www.amazon.com/LG-Lithium-Ion-battery-AX275-LGIP-420A/dp/B002E0A75C/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1343613155&sr=8-2&keywords=lithium+polymer+battery

Just as the title suggests. I became tired of the need for a cable to power the track clip pro with my wireless g930 headset, so let the hacking commence. I removed the cover and drilled holes in the cup for the right ear (the battery compartment), then inserted a status LED to remind me when the track clip is powered on, and a switch to control the power to the track clip and the LED (so I can use the headset without the track clip always turned on). I wired everything to the battery pack of the g930, before the power switch to the headset, so I can also use the track clip with the headset powered off if I want to. Overall I enjoy the experience much better than before. Sorry for the quality of the pictures. My cell phone doesn't have the best camera.

You can't go wrong with either version of the Saitek pedals. I have the Pro Combat pedals, as I feel they are a bit more realistic to how the pedals of the actual aircraft are operated (heels on floor, move rudder with balls of feet). The mod to remove center detent is simple. I accomplished every step start to finish in under 15 minutes. Just remember to be precise and mindful of the internal wires. I added some extra tension to the pedals after removing the detent and now they feel very similar to the pedals in an actual aircraft (aside from the centering spring).

In the game controls menu go to the axis settings drop down menu, select your toe brake axis and click the "invert" box for both left and right. Under the same menu you should be able to adjust the curve on your ministick. Or, if you're just having problems while slewing your TGP you can adjust it by selecting a value on the UFC to enter it into the scratchpad then press the OSB labelled "slew" on the TGP MFCD. I believe the default value is 5.

is the profile you're using utilizing a modifier key that hasn't been defined in the DCS settings? could account for the red errors you're seeing.

norm, try using the solution found in this thread http://forums.eagle.ru/showthread.php?t=56062&highlight=g940+ministick basically use the profiler to have the ministick send a keyboard keypress to the sim for each direction.

can you be more specific with what exactly you're looking to do? also, what is your exact setup (monitor configuration, hardware, etc)? i don't know much about exporting mfcd's to ipad, but i was able to easily setup my 22" touchscreen using tutorials found here on the forum. standby and i'll search for the thread i used to get my setup running. EDIT: i used information from this thread by icemaker. http://forums.eagle.ru/showthread.php?t=70716&highlight=multi+monitor

Am I crazy or does it sound like he's combined his SSD and mechanical drive into a RAID configuration, which could account for his lack of improvement?

I agree about VESA mounts, although pretty much anything you find today will have them. I don't know if I'd buy a monitor that didn't come with them. The stand I use for my touchscreen sits near the edge of the desk and allows the screen to hang over by about an inch. I tried an arm similar to the one you suggested but could never get the monitor positioned where I wanted it. My stand came from a company called Ergomart. http://www.ergomart.com/lcd_monitor_stands/lcd_monitor_stand_SL102_Limbo.htm

I purchased a Compaq L2105M 21.5" LCD touchscreen from Amazon.com and couldn't be happier. Win7 64bit recognized the multitouch right out of the box. Helios works great, and the profile I downloaded by CapLoz works perfectly with the monitor. Hope this helped. http://www.amazon.com/Compaq-L2105TM-LCD-Touch-Monitor/dp/B002VJL0RA/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1342124633&sr=8-1&keywords=hp+l2105

Just a quick clarification here that the TMWH, while a more than adequate flight stick, is NOT FFB.

Looks like you've started to motor your engine but never hit the starter. You can continue to hit the L ENG OPER switch to motor as you've been doing but once it gets to about 30% you should engage the L ENG STARTER by moving the left throttle from the OFF position (fully aft) to the IDLE position (over the hump). Wait for #1 engine to settle then repeat the process for #2. Also, you can skip the motoring and go straight to starting the engine if you want. I'm sure there's a situation where motoring would be warranted, but that's a topic for another thread. EDIT: ARRGH!!! Sniped!

Have you turned on the APU Gen after waiting for the APU to settle at 100%? Also, check that you've turned on all four Fuel Boost Pump switches (Left and Right for both Wing and Main tanks).

IMO this just adds to the realism of the sim. Having been part of several "Lost Commo" incidents I can say that it is not fun. However, part of every mission brief should be a Lost Comm Procedure. Ours included manually retuning the radio, back-up freq, switching to AM or FM, re-cycling the KY58 (on secure channels), and in the case of total comm failure...switching our lighting to bright-flash and/or using a flashlight to get the attention of another pilot. Not necessarily in that order, but you get the idea.

I'm not aware of any way to make the game map a keyboard key to your joystick, however there are several alternatives. You can use joy2key, xkeys, whatever software came with your HOTAS, or ever Helios to assign a keyboard key to a joystick button. You'll need to leave the keyboard key combination assigned in-game and clear the assignment from whatever button you've chosen, then it should work as you're intending. Send me a PM with your specs and I'll see what I can do to write out some more detailed instructions. Edit: OK now re-reading this thread it seems like it might be easier for you to clear the joy_btn15 assignment in-game and directly assign that button to your trackir profile, instead of using F12. That way you have the HOTAS button mapped where you want and are still able to use F12 for radio commands.

@masterwon it sounds as though you have a "condensed" keyboard. do you have your num pad buttons over-layed on your regular keys (7-8-9, U-I-O, J-K-L)? if so it may be easier to set a new key combination for your mic buttons

Thank you all for your quick replies. Inverting my toe brakes solved the problem completely. I can't believe it was that simple.

Using TM Warthog and as far as I know it does not have any problems. In the Target Device Analyzer I can move both throttles from 0-16383. The track is the first mission of the Georgian Hammer campaign. I've kept the default configuration and the mission editor shows total weight of 44,668. Takeoff_Failure.trk

I didn't want to start a new thread so I'm posting here... Everytime I attempt a takeoff in a mission or campaign I can't get my speed above 120kts and I crash off the end of the runway. I've checked my wheel brakes and my emergency brake, tried flaps at MVR and DN. The only thing that seems to help is taking less payload or fuel. My question is this: How can I take a payload with enough ordinance to complete the mission, and enough fuel to make it home, and still be able to reach takeoff speed? I've watched every track/video I can find but nothing has stood out that I'm not doing correctly. Any help would be greatly appreciated. I'm at work now but I can post a track when I get home if it will help. Thanks!