saskcan

Project Updates - AHCP After being away from the forums for a while, I'm back with some updates on my project. I have been casually designing and building for the last several months and finally have something to show for it. Here are a few photos of my AHCP. Electronics are in the works and a few design elements didn't turn out as expected; the connector '+' has to be enlarged and the 3-pos toggle I selected did not fit for the laser switch so it's a 2-pos for now. Otherwise I'm very happy with the progress even though the panel will not be backlit. The lettering came out better than expected and the overall feel is more than acceptable. As you can see, the panel is just test-fit (no screws) onto the backplate.

Hi, nice panels so far! Do you mind sharing the switches you have in mind? I am looking for parts now and have already decided that the mil spec toggles are out of my budget range for the time being.

I once drilled through a quarter using scissors for a string to trick a washing machine at a laundromat.

Hey, I am new to the etching club so I don't know if it is a good deal or not. Here are the prices from the same supplier for the items in the pack: 3"x4" pcb $5.49 (2 in kit) 4oz. developer $17.95 32oz. etcher $24.95 I thought it would be a convenient way to get started but I will compare prices and if I can save 50% will absolutely look around. As for the LEDs, there are many cheaper options. I have no idea where to start in terms of light output. These are high output and I was hoping to be able to use them to test a few concepts and maybe pick the proper output level for some future designs. If you have a datasheet handy on some leds which you successfully used, information on light output would be highly appreciated. Thanks

Jameco Value Pro Prototyping Kit Here is a great looking starter kit for home circuit board etching. http://www.jameco.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/Product_10001_10001_2113244_-1 Since I don't have space to start building a full pit yet, I want to try a few prototype panels this summer. I think it would be really cool to etch my own boards for the light panels. This way they should be clean and thin. I hope to integrate the LEDS into the panel and mount it on a backplate just like the real panels. This will be a challenge because I will probably be using cheapie switches with shorter bushings. Anyway it will be an interesting project to start with and hopefully educational/informative. I will keep you guys posted. Here is an LED I found which might work: http://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/OVSA1GBC2R8/365-1556-1-ND/2203775

Hey, I am in research mode because my current apartment doesn't fit my envisioned simpit (maybe I have that reversed) anyway I have read here one person used 2000mcd leds for their backlights. They look quite good but they do place them 4cm from the panel. Either way at least it is a reference point for intensity.

Great start! I look forward to seeing your pit progress!

I know this thread is pretty old but maybe this will help someone else... It is the 5011 switch that Gadroc linked to but from a different supplier Cole Hersee Push Pull 5011

Nice video! I found it as a great introduction to Helios. I look forward to configuring my cockpit when I get all the pieces together!

Hi, Just finally now having time to get back into my pit design after the Christmas break. I was reading about fabricating PCBs at home using UV masking and etching. I downloaded a program for PCB design called DesignSpark PCB. I know ExpressPCB is also popular and I have actually used it briefly at work. I am sure the features within either are more than enough to do some simple circuits (for example for LED backlighting). Also, stumbled across MIL-C-81774A which has some dimensions regarding panel markings. I am not sure if it specifically applies to the A10-C but at least it is a good guideline. The specification can be found easily on everyspec.

Not really an update... just got back from holidays. Got a copy of Far Cry 3 for Christmas. Also maybe more interesting to those reading the forum is I also got a 3dConnexion Navigator 3D mouse. Anyone use one of these? I think it will be able to save quite a bit of time both in 3D models as well as anything like a Corel Draw document. Will hopefully be back with some sort of update on the parts sourcing or the design process soon! Happy 2013

Not yet... I am going to be traveling tomorrow through the new year so might not have a lot of time to look.

Alright you've convinced me! Will be looking into the engraveable acrylic instead of paint on acrylic. By the way, can you please share the light output of the LEDs you are using (millicandella) (or even better the model number). I see outputs ranging from 10 to 10,000+ and would like a ballpark to start sourcing components.

That is the best example I have seen yet but I am looking for switches in that price range with different styles of locking bar. For example on the SAS panel, the monitor test switch is locked in center but you can return to center from either other position without pulling the toggle. If I understand correctly, NKK switches with locking bar are locked on every position. For example S3AL is locked in all positions. I have found a catalog for C&K which shows different locking styles but I don't understand how to specify the styles in the part number which makes it hard to google search:( I can only seem to find the default style.

engraving material I am quite a ways away from building yet but have seen some good examples achieved with a white or clear acrylic. I am thinking I will use a 1/16" piece of white acrylic spray painted with mat black and engraved through the paint. This will sit on top of a 3/16" clear or frosted layer which will hold and diffuse light from green LEDs. Then the panel would be mounted in a 1/16" aluminum backplate to hold the switches and knobs. This would create a panel 1/4" thick as per MS but I know the LEDs will be a tight fit and still need to figure out the details. Anyway unless I am told otherwise, will probably be engraving through paint onto acrylic. As for router vs laser still not sure... if I end up buying my own hobby machine will probably be cnc router because I think it is more versatile. On the theme of engravable acrylics, I found a product line called ultra-grave that has a mat black/white acrylic. Is this the type of product you are referring to? The 1/16" product cites 0.003-0.005" (.08-.1mm)

Alright, I have got a model together for the SAS Panel. This one uses the MS font. On the previous panels, the round holes for switches have been the same size through all three layers but from inspection, it seems that the size through the backlight and engraving layers should be wider. This is reflected in the new panel. Here are the planned materials (which might change depending on budget/availability of better options) Yaw Trim Pot Yaw Trim Knob (but really I want one of Deadman's castings) Takeoff Trim Button SAS Enable Switches Monitor Test Switch If anyone knows a supplier of locking bar switches that is reasonably-priced, please share! I do not want to go the honeywell route and as far as I can tell, NKK only has the 'locked out of center' versions of locking lever.

Amazing work! How is it interfaced?

Any idea about etching depth for CNC milling? I have been using .1mm in my models. Lots of details to work out but I am happy with my progress so far.

hey thanks for the font tip! On the fuel control panel, I was just using the default sans-serif which is Tahoma. After looking through my installed fonts, I found that TechnicBold was a close match. The majority of the letters are sized at 3.3mm and the larger text on the right is sized at 4mm. Anyone know how these compare to the real panels? I found a free download link for the MS 33558 font as mentioned by Deadman. I will be using that where appropriate from now on. Also, here is a link to the MS revision C which looks appropriate.

Auxiliary Lighting Control Panel Render Rendered image of the Aux. Lighting Control Panel. Hope you guys like it! The text on the right hand side of the panel reads "AUX LTS" even though the panel in DCS shows AUX LTG. I believe it is wrong in the game. At least I have seen some A10A images online which show LTS.

Hi, thank you for the panel drawings! I have a question regarding the aux. lighting panel... I know that the rule of thumb is the panel side lengths are multiples of DZUS spacing (9.53 mm) and from other inspections I came to the conclusion that the left side of the aux lighting panel was 12U (114.36mm) and the right side was 13 mm (123.89) Can you confirm these measurements? I see the left side in your model is about 1/2cm longer than 12U. Is this correct? I know that the console 'bends' at this point. Is this the reason for the difference? Thank you

Merry christmas Merry Christmas and great build! The CNU (and everything else) looks great! Also the paint color looks spot-on! Good luck and looking forward to upcoming posts!

Fuel System Control Panel Render Here is a 3d model of the fuel system control panel. Since the throttles and LASTE will very likely be HOTAS warthog, I think I will next start work on the Aux Lighting Panel (the radios intimidate me...)

Hi Deadman, I wanted to reply to your post asap even though maybe not ready to answer... I will be working panel by panel designing and sourcing parts so since I started with the fuel control panel, right now the first knob that I need is for the exterior lights dimmer on the aforementioned panel. Once I get a better handle on the parts situation, I'll have a more complete list of what I need. If you are still making castings, I would be very interested!

Hi, Thanks for the files and great start! Do you have any suggestion on LEDs for backlights? On digikey, there are some called high brightness/power and seem to be about an order of magnitude brighter than those found in the led-discrete category. I am considering LEDs to simulate NVIS Green B which has a peak wavelength of around 540nm. Also, I found a site which explains a little bit about lumens and candela and also has a conversion tool.