nobrot

LOL damit, where where you when I was placing my order for 100 white LED's!!! Good info, thanks Tiger, I will look into that.. but I am financially committed to LED's for now.

Awesome, looks like a set of Saitek Combat pedals are on the list!

Anyone using off-the-shelf pedals with the dimebug plans? If so which ones??

I did order an LEDWiz :( will it not work with Helios???

Nice job RK, the light distribution is nice and even and I don't see any bleed.. pretty good imo. btw, you guys that are conneting resistors to each LED may want to check out this handy little tool... http://led.linear1.org/led.wiz I figured out I can drive 4 LED's with a single 1 Ohm resistor, based on an array of 100 LED's

Yaay, so I have a full HOTAS rig on its way, a Groovy Game gear order with interface boards and LED's, a pair of dimmers from Amazon... next up is Switches and finalizing my initial order for some of Glider_UK's panels... Guess I should go out locally and buy myself some breadboard and a soldering iron!!

An asymmetrical payload may cause some turning, but a cross-wind will have greater effect, particularly early on in the take-off. If the aircraft is properly aligned before starting the take-off roll, you can safely disengage NWS fairly quickly and maintain runway center line using rudder. If there is a cross-wind, you may need to keep some opposite rudder in during rotation.

Hello modders, I had a good search of the forums, but cant find a post that has the typical workflow to create static objects for DCS World. I want to build some non-animating but destructible static objects such as typical ground equipment or buildings. This is a small portion of a larger project to create a more immersive ramp experience, If anyone has a workflow to share for this I would be really like to take a look. I will be using Autodesk Maya so I can export in multiple formats from that package (.obj or .fbx etc) but then need to know how to get that export into the game and more importantly available in the mission editor for placement. Thanks in advance.

hehe, maybe... but I can shoot rockets and the gun now... so next time in, I will suck a little less.... And yep, I saw the squadron list, but was asking if anyone can recommend a busy active squadron?

OK after reading this post, I am confused as to why anyone would not just use Helios and one of the supported (or at least tested) USB controllers?? It seems to be a no-brainer, or am I missing something here?

Not sure if anyone has seen these, but for thos of you backlighting your panels, this little device seems perfect!! http://www.amazon.com/LEDwholesalers-Dimming-Controller-LED-Lights/dp/B003L4KKF2#productDetails

Haha.. I thought exactly the same, I just love seeing the creativity of the pit builders on this forum. I am in the researching parts stage, and projects like this are just inspiring... excellent job dude...

i think for realism I would use white led's and then use coloured transparency behind main panel for colour correction if needed. Having said that, the green ones definately do the job :)

Guys its looking good, I now have a much clearer idea about using LED's for backlighting. I hope to be ordering my first panels and hardware in the nest few days, I will be receiving my HOTA rig next week.. things are warming up!!! I would still like to hear from anyone that has used the EL sheets with any success.

So I have some free time on my hands, not loads but enough that I started planning a sim pit build for DCS A-10, and during the research process I somehow found my way into a multi-player server. Not knowing what to do or expect, I went through the cold start procedure, noted the target area on the TAD and taxied to the runway, realized I had no weapons loaded, just gun (I can cold start and navigate and that's about it), I havent done any tutorials on weapons systems so even if I had a loadout I would not know how to prosecute any targets with it anyway! So I figured I would go look at the target area anyway.. During taxi someone in a fast mover took off, and during take-off I watched a heli cross the end of the runway too both seemed to be heading in the direction of target area.... after take-off flew really low using terrain as best I could, and soon found myself over the target area, the flares were popping like mad as I jinked my way past, tracers flew past the canopy, I managed to egress out over the sea and at medium level, out of reach of the search radars that had been trying to kill me I headed back to base for a decent landing.... What a rush!!! and I didn't even shoot at anyone..... but knowing I was in a player versus player situation was seriously intense... I WANT MORE!!! Today I start learning weapon systems... You guys suck, my pit will probably take me a year longer now.... as I will undoubtedly have less time to build it... If anyone is able to recommend an active USTZ A10 squadron, then please let me know, nobrot's in hot!!

serial # TBA - it will be here Tuesday yipyip yipeeeee.... Maybe tanking will be easier once I set fire to my Logitech and start using the new throttle and stick... BTW, why is the community interested in everyones serial number?

Anton, correct me if I am wrong, but the backplate has small holes, are these the ones you use for the LED's? Nice looking panel BTW, :)

@Agrasyuk; Any chance of getting a look at the lightplate from your image above, I am warming to this idea over EL sheets. @Glider_UK, having some problems with sending/replying to PM's, I have tried to send you three PM's so far and none of them shoow up in my sent items, so Ihave no clue if they have been sent; can you pm me your email address so we can comminicate over email??

Thanks for the feedback guys, @metalnwood, you are correct I had not included the spacer, its something I have not considered although I have seen them mentioned. @agrasyuk, nice looking panle, but as you said too bright and a bit too green?, again from my work experience on military aircraft, the backlight is slightly green, sort of like the glow you get from glow-in-the-dark, and when turned up is a diffuse white, I would like to see the back of your panel to give me an idea of how things are put together to get that even spread. @Glider_UK, thanks, I will check it in a mo, and will probably place an initial order for proof of concept :). I also wondered if it would be possible to get a result with a thicker piece of Perspex and then insert LED's into holes drilled in the edge, I wonder if that would produce something useable, much like a wide flat fiber optic cable, anyone tried that?

I guess the EL sheets seemed like a no brainer for even light distribution on a single panel. And seeing that they can be cut sort of sealed the idea for me. The idea was to have a single inverter driving all the panels, the inverter would be tied to the battery master, so that turning on the battery master (with a double pole switch) would send one signal to the USB interface and on to Helios, and then the other pole would switch on the inverter... then I can drive those panel lights via the lighting panel, pluss the inverter noise would give some believable atmosphere, I used to be a crewchief on multiple aircraft, particularly the Tornado, turning the battery master on made all sorts of cockpit noises :), and I bet the A-10 is the same. Its early days, so I would love to hear from any other pit builders that have any success or otherwise with EL panels, I just cant visualize getting a nice even light with the LED's... but maybe that's because I haven't tried...

Thanks, I have messaged Glider_UK for some info and pricing :)

Heres a good tutorial about using Helios and toggle switches... http://forums.eagle.ru/showthread.php?t=80106

OK, its time for me to start a build, I have been putting it off for years. I have found a local company that will CNC my panels, so I am all set for the first test panel. Before I spend any hard earned cash on parts, I am hoping that I can get some advice or comments on my panel build process. Here are the steps that I think should be used to create a realistic quality panel, but I am missing a couple of things. 1. Cut the TOP panel dimension from a 1/8th" White Translucent Acrylic sheet. 2. Paint the sheet with three layers of matt black paint. 3. CNC the panel shape (holes for switches etc). 4. CNC engrave the panel graphics to a depth of 1/16". 5. Cut the LIGHT panel from an EL sheet to match the panel but trimmed back from the panel edge to prevent edge light bleeding. 6. Cut a BACK panel (uncludes the zues mounting holes) from a suitable material 1/8th or 3/16th? 7.Sandwich the TOP - LIGHT -BACK panels and bond together. The only part I am not certain about is how to bond the three layers together, and if the thicknesses are suitable. Would there be any problems with sandwiching the EL sheet? And anyone know what glue to use that is suitable for the Acrylic and the EL material?