davidjb

This works quite well for me, handbrake lever with a m/c steering damper. I would make the lever a little longer to give more sensitivity, and I had to redo some bushings to get some slop out of the movement . Nothing complicated

Polymorph is your friend! https://www.amazon.co.uk/Hand-Mouldable-Polymorph-Thermoplastic-Unlimited/dp/B08THPV8J5/ref=sr_1_8?keywords=polymorph&qid=1698085527&sr=8-8 I used this when upgrading from Rift to Reverb, while I was waiting for the proper mount from Miles (Hmmm) years later , still working fine with some 2x sided foam tape ( 3M - for car trim) . Dead easy to use and remold if you dont get it right first time.

Spelmann, Thanks for the encouragement. Just for reference, here is a picture of my collective/ handbrake. You can see I rearranged it with the handle the other way round- works for me!

Nice work ! I have also used that handbrake base for a collective. Couple of points. It came with a leonardo board and the programming was probably fine for a handbrake but was too steppy for a collective ( maybe ~100 steps). So I wrote a new programme and uploaded which uses the max resolution of the board ( 1024 steps?) That works much better at no cost. Still using the original hall sensor. There was quite a bit of lost movement especially in the side slots. A couple of custom 3d printed bushes helped a lot with this - not sure how long they will last , but doing fine so far and easy to reprint. +1 on the damper. I really need to get around to making a button box for the end

Printed and built one of these over the last few weeks . Very straightforward. It has improved my ground handling of the Spit immeasurably . Just wondering if this approach may be useful for the throttle for the upcoming Mossie?

I was trying to keep that old school photo under wraps, but I guess you found it Aries144 :megalol: More practically, some extra padding inside the headband can help with stability as well - depending of exactly how weird your head shape is!

Been working on the same problem for a while now. I have convinced myself that it is something to do with Geforce experience In-game overlay, possibly in association with higher graphics settings. Might have to reset the tracking ( hide the headset from the sensors) if the overlay is turned off after the stutter has started So many variables … David

On the basis this was a VR tracking issue, I tried moving one of my Rift sensors to another USB port. Generally seems to solve the problem, although hasn't done it for a few days now so not been able to retest. Easy one to try - let us know if it works or not. D

Hi padonis, thanks for the numbers - spot on :thumbup: Looks like that encoder would work OK . 100 pulses per rev feels good to me - does not take too long to swing it all the at round if needed , sensitive enough to set to an exact number. David

Promised you an update on this. New 100 step encoder arrived today :) https://www.aliexpress.com/item/Photoelectric-rotary-encoder-100-pulse-AB-phase-5-24V-coupling-200-300-360-400-600-Pulse/32794421726.html?spm=2114.13010608.0.0.BBm7kh Works fine with [FSF]Ians code above, but using 1125 instead of 3200 gives ALMOST 1 deg per step, close enough for me but it would be good to pin down the exact value. The encoder is quite chunky ( 40mm x40mm body, + shaft) so it might be tricky to mount in a true replica cockpit. The sensitivity feels about right to me, but here is no click detent - smooth rotation. Hope this helps someone D

Thanks Ian - that works fine :thumbup: I can see it now in encoders.h I will have an experiment with the step values and see if I can work out what what equals a 1 deg step. Can any RL pilots give an idea how sensitive the course knob should be ( how many degrees does 1 revolution represent) ?

I have been working on a good implementation of this on an off for a while - still not quite solved it. What I have found so far Using a 16 detent per revolution encoder from Bodnar (CTS288) connected to a Bodnar board then mapped in DCS, gives a step of about 7 or 8 degrees per click. Difficult to set an exact course so needs refining with the mouse. Using the same encoder connected to an Arduino Nano and programmed with DCS BIOS ( thanks [FSF]Ian !) . Using Ian's values of + or - 3200 changes the value by about 3 degrees but only on every 4th click. Changing the value in the sketch to 1000 gives about 7/8th of a degree. Further experimentation with values needed to get exactly 1. For completeness - my mouse wheel gives just under 1 deg per click, the keyboard gives about 8 per keypress - but you have to be quick to get your finger off the key. Future thoughts - use an encoder with more steps per revolution ( 100 250 400?). Optical encoders are about 10GBP form China . Can anyone suggest how many steps per rev would be realistic? I assume it would work with the Nano and DCS BIOS? Can the sketch be amended to give a change on each step? I have not looked at this yet but my programming skills are in their infancy. Hope this help someone - let you know if I find out anything else useful

Ok - solved my own problem. Thought the thread on 3D below would help, but it did not include the rather basic fact of CTRL +T to turn the red/blue 3D on/ off. this link adds more http://www.nvidia.co.uk/object/3d-vision-faq-uk.html scroll down to "hotkeys " Anyway - hope this helps some other noob D

First post on here- been using the forum for a few months since getting A-10. Thanks so much guys for all the knowledge on here Since the last update 1.2.6.20768, my world view has gone a bit funny! Never knew DCS could do this , and if I could find the 3D glasses that came with the kids dinosaur book I might enjoy the experience:) As it is - just makes it even more difficult for me:( Anyone else got this? Or even better - a way to switch back to normal view? System is Athlon 2 3GHz 10Gb ram Win 8.1, GT610 vid card TrackIR 5 Thanks for any help/ advice David