Triggerhappy69

I have held back the Pedal drawings because I wanted to be absolutely sure they would hold together after some use.. I've used them now for maybe 4 hours. And allthough they seem to work really well I have allready made two slight modifications. Nothing major, but still important.. It seemed like the right way to do it after so many wanted the drawings. And I got scared Sh**tlless that all aover the planet flightsimmers would sear my name for some design flaw..:music_whistling: The drawings will be more complete than previous ones. So no more guesswork for anyone building them. And If all goes well I'll have my Force feedback mechanics on them to.. But knowing me, I'll most likely get distracted and ..... well.. you know.. :cry:

Sidepanels coming up dude..! Got back today, and I am working on them and the collective/Left rear wall now..

Well I actually haven't even started on that one yet.. But I'll try and hurry.. Seems I'm lagging a bit here.. LoL

Sorry guys.. Had a computer crash on my CAD Computer.. But I managed to fix it.. Seems to be the Chipset that has overheated.. As far as "realistic" goes I have no idea if I am spot on with my drawings. I have worked from the assumption that the largest gauges on the Front Instrument Panel are 75mm in diameter. And scaled everything accordingly.. I got the 75mm reference from a russian site describing different RU instruments. .. They really do have some interresting engineering in RU Aero industry electronics, at least compared to western..? It's rugged, but it works, and it doesn't look like it's going to break down anytime soon.. LoL Ps. I have e-mailed the Front Pedestal drawings to you SimPit. Working on the Pedals complete drawings now, and after that comes the Lower Left panel. Question..? Do you want the main structure drawings first? Or should I start on the APU-Panel and R-800 and-so-on before moving to the next structural module (Lower Right Panel)?

Excellent bit of script for SIOC by Oakes and Zed Gecko! :thumbup::thumbup:Just BRILLIANT mate..! :thumbup::thumbup: I ran a quick test after reading the "read me" file.. And it couldn't be made simpler..! I am in awe..! (wherever that might be?)

Same here.. Mach3 is really the most adaptable and "simple" software available in my oppinion..! I have LazyCAM with Mach3, but I still seem to use SolidCAM more (allthough it's a B*TCH before you get used to it..):cry:

I envy you..! That is a fiiiine piece of machinery..! I have ordered the capasitators that will complete my DIY CnC mill now.. It should be running by monday if all goes well..:music_whistling: What do you plan on using to do your G-Codes? I started on re-learning G-Code programming, but gave up quickly when it came to the letters.. LoL..

.. But..? Without the MS FFB Software I can't dissable the return-spring force on the stick? A little bird whispered in my ear that I might get a good result from re-installing DirectX 9C..? I'll try it and post the result..

I installed the English DSC Blackshark in my Sim Pc tonight. And for some reason my Microsoft Sidewinder Force Feedback 2 USB stick comes up as "unrecognized USB device"..? And to add insult to injury It works for maybe 2-3 minutes after some frenetic USB plug-unplug-change plug-swear and try the original plug exersices..!?:cry: The only thing that has changed is me un-installing the RU Blackshark and installing EN Blackshark on my XP Pro computer..? Anyone encounter simular problems?

Check your PM mate..!;)

I use Opencockpits IOCard to connect the Panels. And by having SIOC scripts controlling them I can make subroutines that read me flipping a switch, and then tell the IOCard to light an LED before sending the keypress back to the simulator.. More in Oakes thread: http://forums.eagle.ru/showthread.php?p=618336

...

A-10 Blueprints and pictures Are these of any help to you? .. :(

Thank you both is more correct..! ;)

Pit Building Update - 20 January 2009 - Collective Mechanics Breakout board in place Got the switch for the Collective Break wired now, and the plate that holds the Breakout board and Loe's Joystick Controller is in place..!:smartass: .. as soon as I have connected all the switches and buttons I will cover the cables and test board with a lid made from the same 3mm foam plate and paint it.. I'll also put a light above it so that I can see what I am doing when I need to service or replace parts there..

Pitbuilding Update - 20 January 2009 - The Hall Effect Sensors I am in the middle of sweating and swearing my way through connecting all the cables from the Collective Stick Box to the Controller Card. So I decided to take a short brake and make a mounting bracket for the Hall Effect sensor and magnets. Since the Collective stick only moves about 30 degrees in total. I have checked up on Hall Effect sensors, and the way they translate magnetic fields into resistance.. And how I best can utilize this to suit my needs.. A HE Sensor changes it's resistance relative to how strong the magnetic field passing through it is. Much like the potensiometers that standard joysticks do. But with HE Sensors you can alternate the curve of the resistance relative to the movement of the sensor by placing and/or moving the magnets in different patterns. Here are some examples: The most obvious example is to mave a magnet from a distance and close in on the sensor. The cloloser you get to the sensor (Gauss indicates the strenght of the magnetic field), the higher resistance it will get. By sliding the magnet from either side and pass the sensor, you can have an exponetial curve that peaks as the magnet is directly under the sensor. If you do the same sliding with TWO magnets oriented North to South next to eachother you can achieve a more flat curve. BUT the physical movement for this is REALLY small.. Spread the magnets a little from each other, it's quite easy to get the flat curve from previous example a bit wider..! Perfect for adapting to your exact joystick/pedal setup..!:thumbup: I use this configuration in my Cougar Joystick. (.. does require some gluing and screwing. and can be frustrating when using strong Neodyme magnets. Because the tend to come loose and SLAM together before you bolt them:cry:) Ring magnets are good for where you have a large sircular movement. I can't think of any good examples right now, but maybe steering wheels? They work exactly tha same way a unipolar slide-by would... exept the "slide" is now a "rotate"..:cry: (not the most common type, but I think you find them inside small DC motors like CD ROMs and stuff) I searced for an alternate way and came across this excellent setup by SOKOL1 : http://simhq.com/forum/ubbthreads.php/topics/2559119/How_to_building_your_onw_sturd.html#Post2559119 He tested the setup through 47 degrees of movement and had almost exactly the result I was looking for! I have mounted two Neodyme magnets at the end of my Collective Stick axle. And they are North to South oriented so they produce a strong uniform magnetic field: The Hall Effect Sensor is soldered to a test boards underside and will sit directly over the center of the Collective axle: On top of the test board there is a plug for the wire running to the Control Card from Leo Bodnar. And they are alligned like this..! By alligning them so that the magnetic field flow is paralell with the sensor at the Collective sticks center I will get an output of 2,5 Volts. And when I move the Collective Stick up or down I turn the magnets arround the fixed sensor and the output varies like this. ... and that's just what I wanted it to be.. The info from SOKOL1 can be downloaded in a Pdf file at: http://www.members.optusnet.com.au/julian265/il2/unistick/uni_stick.pdf Thank you SOKOL1 for providing it to us all.:thumbup: Edit: SOKOL1 brought this to my attention: "Trigger, I only linked this document in SimHQ, the autor is Julian from Australia. He did a good study of pratic use of sensor HALL in stick." So I say THANK YOU BOTH..! c",)

My HERO..! Now I can bug you for the SIOC script all I want.. Yahoo..!

The pedals assembly will be attached to the Front pedestal, so I hope this will not be a problem.. Hmmm.. I HOPE..! Like this:

Thank you.. Well I am either going to make the pedals into Force Feedback Pedals using a beefy 50V DC motor I have. It came out of one of thiose electric door openers they use in hotels. And it already is fitted with a reduction gearbox, so I think It will be adequate. Or I'll build a pneumatic Force trim system with the smaller air actuators I have.. We'll see.. I think you will find them earlier in this thread somewhere... If you want them in a SW assembly or DXF just PM me your e-mail adress mate.. And I'll send them..:thumbup:

Pitbuilding Update - 19. January 2009 - Yaw Pedal assembly pictures .. I kind'a promised this in the previous post.. :music_whistling: and to save myself I will just upload the pics, and add the text when I have replaced my ten thumbs with fingers..:helpsmilie: .. not to bad considering this was my goal..

Pitbuilding Update - 19. January 2009 - Collective Mech Breakout Board and Yaw Pedal I need to get me some more etching fliud... Because I tell you guys.. This breakout board soldering almost made me rip all my hear out..! (and I'm bald as an egg).. After some really CRAPPY attempts of translating Leo's 6 by 6 matrix onto something I could make on an old pre-used testboard I had. I had a brilliant idea.. Why don't I see if maybe someone might have stumbled onto this problem before.. And hey..! I think I'll use this oppurtunity to look for it on the Internet.. Maybe even on the forum of Leo's website..!? Some days you wake up and all is good..! You slept well..! Your significant other (politicly corect here.. LoL) is lookin fiiine..! ...even the dog is smiling at you.. This was not one of those days..! So on to the support forum I went.. And whatta'ya know.. I found this..! After I finally came out from my shame corner (pointy hat and all).. I realized that Douglas Adams actually was right.. The mice actually ARE the most intelligent creatures on this planet.!? well, it has to right.. because judging from my own actions we can't be..! And as far as I know all the others are dumber than me..? Except for the mice.. They just will not interact with us at all.. They must think we're stupid.. Here is the layout I found on the Leo Bodnars forum. (I'll look it up again to credit the guy who made it.. But if you are reading this now.. good job..!) And that turned into this: yeah yeah yeah..! I know..! But it's not like I was planning on close-ups when I was cursing my way through a gazzilion solderpoints.. I'll tidy it up.. later.. maybe.. The BU0836A controller and breakoutboard is mounted on a piece of plastic foam board (3mm) and will be easily to reach and/or service on the backside of the Left Rear Wall.. And for some reason, unknown to man, I have decided to NOT take a picture of where on the Left Wall it will sit..? Aaaaaaaaaaargh!... just shoot me..!

It also gives the autopilot a new zero point when you release the collective brake..

DUUDE..! You have no idea how much you helped me with these pictures..!:thumbup: Thanx mate..!

Specs dude.. specs..!

I like it to..! It will be my "Happy" skin for when I have a good day..!