Triggerhappy69

Alltid hyggelig med en landsmann her .. :thumbup: I haven't given it much thought yet, but it has crossed my mind.. Let me get the CnC up and running, and make the first panels. And then I can get back to you on this?

Thanx man.. I really appreciate hearing that.. Because at times it's sooo easy to think "this is NEVER going to work".! And then comes someone with your caracter and delivers the motivation again...

Weeeell....? It 'kinda went in the wastebin..! I have no clue why the transformator gave me this crazy readings, so after reading everything I could find online regarding transformators, rectifiers, and capacitators(..and there's a LOT of crap to be read out there on those subjects..). And calling anyone I know that could have an answer why this occured.. I finally did some 1'st grade math and decided that three times 3A is 9A..! My stepper motors are 3 Amps each.. So I went on E-Bay and got me a 24V switched power supply that delivers 10Amps instead.. The CnC mill is not really a project for anything other then having a tool to make panels with, and it was holding me up in the pitbuilding.. :huh: .. however it still bugs me not being able to even get some idea of what was wrong..! Aaaaaargh.. I'll just say the transformator was busted..! ..That's my story, and I'm stickin' to it..!:music_whistling:

Red Dog..? THE RED DOG..!? I'll be honest and admitt letting out a "Woohoo!!" when I read this.. This is really such a compliment, and specially coming from YOU.! I've been following your building since 2005, or perhaps even before that. Always in awe over what you make..! If it had'nt been for your building thread that always seem to make the impossible seem easy. I know I wouldn't have embarked on this pitbuilding adventure at all..! My hat goes off for you.. Are you planning on a KA-50 Pit now? I thought you had your hands full with the F-16 and F-104 pits.? Let me know if I can return the help you've invoulentary given me..! Check out Red Dog's Pitbuilding thread at Viperipits.org: http://www.viperpits.org/smf/index.php?topic=537.975 You have a bold approach to your building man.. Nothing seems to be to complicated for you. And that's been such a good inspiration whenever I have been bangin' my head against the wall.. Thank you..! ..Your progress reports on your F-16 Cockpit... ..Simpits website that just puts everything into order, and let's you know how it SHOULD look and work.... ..Killn's CAD plans that actually got me started learing 3D construction! ..and Keane's insane all metal cockpit to drool over.. (I don't even know if he's still building? Is he?) Your all gems..! And I love you all.. In a masculine non-gay way naturally..!:megalol: Ps. Everyone should check out Viperpits.org forum.. It's just crammed with relevant info on.. well... EVERYTHING you need to know in pitbuidling..

A little of both this and that in Pitbuilding.. Actually your touching an issue of great proportions here my friend.. If your goal is to make just a switch panel with switches and pushbuttons to control the functions in the cockpit, then I would use software to emulate that every time a switch is changed (either up or down) it will send a keystroke. This will off course take away your possibility to have all the switches in it's "correct" position at startup, but for a switchpanel that is more for ease-of-use than a scale cockpit I wouldn't bother.. After all it's function before form..! Software like SVMapper for HID Joystick controllers like Loe Bodnars BU-series is just a breeze to set up for anyone.. I didn't even read the "read me" file before I started. And so far it's been a breeze to use it..! - SVMapper from the Sukhoi forums http://forum.sukhoi.ru If your using Opencockpits USB-Keboard Card I would look into SIOC Keyklient software that Oakes made togheter with Zed Gecko. I haven't had a chance to dive into this program yet. But I HAVE read the "read-me" file. And as far as I can see It's a gift from heaven for us that use SIOC and IOCards from Opencockpits.. http://forums.eagle.ru/showthread.php?t=37417 ControlMK I didn't even get arround to test with my Bodnar Controllers. I know..! I should have done it, but SVMapper just worked so well for me.. - ControlMK from http://phaseone.sytes.net Any of these sollutions should work in your case.? Because the possition of every switch has no relevance. It will only send a keystroke when you flick it to another possistion.? So even if you have a gear up/down switch ON-OFF type. With indicator lights for gear and warning lights. You can get it to work by just resetting all warning lights and indicator lights at every respawn in SIOC.. As far as Blackshark goes I put my trust in all you guys who have a clue how to make 3'rd party software for us pitbuilders.. Because, just like you, I can't really see how we're going to have our pits be fully functional as it is today..? But I have faith.. PCB ETCHING MATRIX BOARD FOR BU0836 CONTROLLER I have found an easy way to make PCB etching by the transfer method much better..! The problem with the transfer method was that I never seemed to be able to make the connection lines thin enough without them being ruined when I removed the Paper with water.. Most of the time there were some residue from the paper that got "burned" into the Copper, and whenever I tried removing it I also destroyed the lines..? So after wasting two matrix cards because they came out with bad or busted connection lines, I got desperate and whipped out my trusty old toothbrush and some abrasive liquid soap..! And as you (again not quite clearly unfortunately) see the end result was just friggin perfect..! And after some time in the etching bath.. .. and some more.. and even some more.. (remember to have the etcing bath floating in hot water when you do this.. I just forgot this time, and it took forever to get rid off all the copper when the temerature dropped) It came out looking just PERFECT..! YAHOOO::!:thumbup: None of the lines are broken, and all I need to do now is some drilling and a whole lot of soldering.. Yawn.. .. And yes I did not pre-drill the holes on this one before etching it out.. The reason is that I have had some difficuties with the carbide drill "wandering" when I made the other PCB's. And I have an idea that since the tranfer was so perfect, the copper will act as a guide for the 0,4mm carbide drill..? I'll let you know how it goes (if it's a sucsess.... If I fail miserably again, I'll just ignore it and never mention this again:cry:) Ps. I have'nt forgotten your PM Stelios.. I just ... Oh bugger.. I might have forgotten it a little after all..:doh: But I will get right on it..

To Soup55: I offer you my appolagies mate.. I am sorry it appeared as if it was directed towards you. My intention was to get a message out to all of us.. ME included..! I am a part of the collective as much as we all are.. And my words were ment to point out to us all that we react as humans when in frustrating situations like this is.. I am really sorry if I offended you, or in any other way made you feel treated unfair by my words.. You were in no way the target for my attention.. No one in particular was.. .. Dammit.. It must have felt like a direct frontal attack on your person.. And that can't have been any good..! I really feel like a total b*st*rd for that.. .. again, sorry soup55..

Aaaah..! You haven't mentioned your controller yet mate..!? Now I'm dying to se how your coming along with it.. Show me some pics.. :thumbup: Never mind if the first try went to cr*p.. I still want to see it.. (most of the time my first try has gone the same way.. LoL) Pics, pics pics..:smilewink:

Swetrekki has a VERY good point guys..! But first of all I would like to say URZE, whatever has happened I hope your doing well, and hope to see you back here soon. Whenever your ready and able, or just feel up for it..! Now to all of us I'd like to say that... We jump to conclutions to easy when we're hurt or feel let down... And though this is a natural reaction, it is seldom a socialy accepted reaction. Nor is it ever well recieved by the unfortunate other part at the recieving end.. I really sympatize with all who are still waiting for the stuff they ordrered.. I really do..! But let's think a little first and then write our frustrations down.. I think even the most angry guys will be able to relate to what I am about to write.. First of all. I can't see how anyone put down such energy, time and personal effort in a scam..? C'mon..! URZE made these products from he's own dedication to this hobby of ours.. He came up with not just one idea, but a whole bunch of ideas! And they were drivven from a thought inside he's mind to a promoted and sold product in quite a short time to..! Actions speak louder than words they say. And URZE was all action.. He's a regular guy from Germany.. A guy with an idea.. And now people from all over the world know what he has made.. That's action in my book.! So I hope we can all agree that he must have put a lot of effort into this endavour of he's? would you just drop it and walk away for no reason? I hope not.. He attended different gatherings and befriended some of the key people within our comunity.. Just to rip you guys off..?! Does that sound likely to anyone.? I sure hope not.. Also you should consider the fact that the products he has are quite unique..? Would you launch a good idea AND follow through over time like that if you had anything other than the best intesions..? Again I hope not. So let's say that we can all agree on the fact that most likely something else has happened to URZE..! Something that was not foreseen by him, and probably not even wanted by him.. If so, then it should be safe to say that when ever the "whatever it is" has resolved itself, or been resolved by URZE, he will want to pick up where he left and keep promoting the products we all found so good, Right? Well, I for one would dread facing a "raging mob" when I was recuperating from sickness, or bouncing back from a financial downwash, or whatever it is.. I would probably think " .." You KNOW what I would think.. 'Cause you would most likely think the same.. ".. to h*ll with them all! I was hospitalized and they branded me as a thief..!" That's what I would think.. Now for the most angry of you.. You do want URZE to come back from wherever he is don't you? Because you have paid good money, and want to get your products or a refund? Now remember what I just wrote before.. ... it's all starting to make sense to you now, I hope..? So if you can't show compassion, at least do the one thing that will give you what you want..?! Just be nice..! ... is that so hard..? Ps. And for the love of god.. What if Swetrekki is on to something and it's depression..? I guess we're not exactly what the doctor ordered then, are we? I'm so mad right now at us all..!

Some finishing on the Cyclic Stick I finally decided to let BlackShark rest a little while I did some work on the Cockpit. Having tested the HOCAS, and made some notes on improvements needed to be done. And since I am workinbg on the CnC mill most of the time anyway. I took everything apart to do some rebuilding. First on my list was finishing the Cyclic stick with triggers and Wheel Brake handle. It was mounted at an angle on the front pedestal, but I am changing that to a horisontal mounting. The force-feedback motors don't need to struggle if the stick is balanced (like URZE's FFB stick). And I wasn't happy with the way I had the PCB's for the Sidewinder FFB at harms way.. Another BU0836 Joystick controller Card was ordered from Leo Bodnar. This one will cort out the Cyclic triggers, buttons and POV hat. This is more or less what I am aiming for: The hat for the Pipper controller needs to be made new. And there is a "ridge" protecting the furthest right button.. I heated a piece of plastic and shaped it with a steel tube. And then I sanded, and sanded, and sanded.. God how I HATE sanding.. But the result wasn't to bad if you ask me.. And you have to ask me. Because the pictures were taken with my cellphone. And you have no clue if it looks like CRAP from those..? :doh: ... but trust me.. It looks good.. LMAO.! Next soime paint and stuff..

Power Supply problems Here's the deal..: As shown I measure the current after the Capasitator and with the Resistors connected. And it shows 50,3 Volts Here I still have the Capasitator and bleed resistor connected. And I'm measuring the current right after the Rectifier.. Now showing 50,1 Volts. Then I disconnected the Capasitator and Bleed resistor. And all of a sudden the voltage drops to 33,6 Volts.? Go Figure that one out!:cry: The Power Supply Setup As seen I am running the AC through the Toroidial Transformator and into the Rectifier. Then through a Fuse and out to the Capasitators.. The Capasitator. Type Nippon Chemi-Con, 63Volt, 10.000 Micro Fharad, And I have also tested with a smaller Capasitator. Same result..! The Rectifier product sheet. Could it be as simple as my Voltmeter setting, or something like that guys? I am grasping at straws here now.. Desperate to connect the damn thing and start produsing Instrument panels with english text.. Thank you all for all your help btw.. I really appreciate it..:thumbup:

Doesn't LOSIOC and Gauge Composer work with DSC/BS? If so then you could in a "simple" way design the Ka-50 Gauges and have them projected on a seperate monitor (even on a networked PC for no FPS loss).. If you check the forum on the LOSIOC homepage there is a thread on this topic.! http://losioc.free.fr/ And 3'rd Wings Dev's Zone is always a good read to: http://www.3rd-wing.net/index.php?showforum=72

I'll do that as soon as I get home mate.. Thanx for helping..:thumbup: It just dawned on me that capasitators let AC current through right? So if the Bridge rectifier is busted, could that be the source of the increased current? Anyway it looks like this:

Finished some of the panels drawings.. Finally I have had some free time on my hands again.. I've finished up some of the new Panels drawings pending the CNC Mill getting done.. I am using a toroidial transformator that should give me an output of 37V and 3,6 Amp. And it does exactly that when I measure the voltage out from the transformator. And the same when I measure the voltage after the Bridge rectifier.! BUT when I measure the voltage after it has passed two 10.000 Micro Fahrad Capasitators (63V) I get 53 Volts???? Anyone have a clue why? There panels are done and SimPit will get them tomorrow. I have also added the DXF file for those who want to run it through a CAM software and CNC them out..!

I got mine from an old Playstation controller that was busted.. And it turned out that they where the same ALPS mini-joysticks I had ordered.. And cheaper to..:thumbup:

A-10 Panels, Operational Manual, Pictures and some other A-10 related stuff from my Skydrive: http://cid-58ab92e8ffe73bbb.skydrive.live.com/browse.aspx/A-10?uc=0 Credit for all the excellent panels goes to Strandedduckling

A-10C HOTAS for the Pitbuilder? I have come in contact with a very helpfull and nice guy here in Norway that used to import SunCom Joysticks and Thrustmaster. He told me that he had a couple of SunCom Stick and Throttle 'Combos left over that he could be persuaded to sell to Pitbuilders?:thumbup: The Combo Pack..! (Am I wrong when I say that the A-10B have this "F-15" type HOTAS?) The real A-10C Throttle and Stick: If you mix it up with an old Thrustmaster FLCS Stick like this: You'll get the right combo... He told me he would look into what he had in stick and send me prices in a couple of days..:thumbup: Naturally I'm getting one and modding it with Leo Bodnars joystick controller cards..

I just checked now, and I have 146Mb of 3D Views and detailed info on all the panels.. But I can't post that much info here, so P M me your e-mail or your adress, and I'll either e-mail or snail-mail it to you.. Even got the Flight Manual for the A-10A model in this folder somewhere..:cry: [ATTACH]25376[/ATTACH] Link to A-10 Slideshow: http://img516.imageshack.us/slideshow/player.php?id=img516/2218/1235592530gb6.smil

Eeehh.! 'Wanna do a trade mate? Nothing major.. just making all the panels for my pit.. If you feel like it.? LoL

I am using the same buttons myself.. But I didn't get any info in the LED's embedded in the buttons? (How many Volts and mA's) Do you have this?

I think I have some dawings of the sticks at home.. I'll try remeber to post send them to you when I get back..

Guys..! Check this website out for A-10 Pitbuilding Porn..! http://www.strandedduckling.com/index.html

Well I've got a little side project going for a desktop type mini-pit with sidepanels going back as far as the throttle sticks. With the old SunCom HOTAS (modelled after the F-15 setup I think?) and naturally the gauges on the front Panel. Being an old SU25T lover I just cuodn't see myself NOT falling in love with the DCS GroundPounder.. And I just love the A-10 Frontpanel and its stunning amount of needles whirling arround at startup..! He He:music_whistling: And it's a US cockpit. so everything can most likely be bought from somewhere as far as panels and switches go.. Not that easy to find RU Cockpit parts on e-bay... At least I can't find anything ..? ... Actually, or should I say unfortunately, you do have a good point there mate..:smilewink: 'Cause the thing I like the most in this prosess is all the cool stuff you have to learn and/or figure out sollutions for.. By the time I've got this Ka-50 Pit up and running I'll probably be so bored with the thing I'll either give it to someone or start rebuilding it... or try to make it more perfect I hope.. But hey..! At least I'll know why that one LED always flashes before lighting up with the others.. It's because I solder like solder like a moron..:megalol: I don't think I can come up with one thing in the little I have "finished" at this point, that I don't have at least FOUR discarded versions of.. Hmmm that makes you want to think.. right..? .... actually Let's not.. 'cause now I just lost all hope and see no real reward for all my time invested in this.. AND to add insult to injury, the only thing I'll have is a future of more time invested in more unsatifying projects.. makes you wanna cry right.. hehe NOT!.. I'm just kidding:smilewink: This is the coolest hobby I've ever had.. It's kind of like golf.. without the awfull clothes and funky shoes.. It doesn't matter how good you are at it. You will always know you suck.. and every time you're going to make something, you need to learn how to first. And when you've made the thing (.. from previous remember.. thwo lines up..), you have gotten betterat it... ...and then you just have to make another one..? .. and all of a sudden they release the simulator...? and your waaayyy behind schedule..... LMAO

Force Feedback motor for Pedals I got my hands on this baby..!

First test of the HOCAS setup ... FINALLY..! Guess who is going to have fun this weekend..!:thumbup: .. no time to tell you about the stuff right now.. Gotta fire up DCS..!

- I am thinking in the same line as you. But I'm not shure the motors in FFB Wheels will be strong enough? After all we're a lot stronger in our legs at a linear push force than our arms will ever be in twisting? So I'll either hack the controller from a Steering-wheel/FFB Joystick and beg AlexRC help me amplify the output current for the motor with H-bridges. Or I will buy a FFB controller Card directly from Immersion.com depending on haow much they cost? -Glue is INTENSLY IMPORTANT when assembling any construction that will carry loads like the Pedals do.. I used screws because they where ready at hand. And they maintain the holding torque force even under a constantly vibrating enviroment much better than nails do..? (at least that's what I have convinced myself of :music_whistling:) The best way I think would be to use woodplugs and glue together with screws (or those pull-together screws that IKEA use). Then the glued surfaces will retain the shape, the woodplugs will hold the whole assembly together with the same elasticity as the main structure (and thus prevent breaking the glue surface due to some retainers being less elastic that the structure), and the splitting forces would be next-to-nothing because the "IKEA Screws" will keep the parts at a fixed relation to eachother.. But it seriously sucks to set up and drill.. I did this when I buildt my CnC-Mill.. and lets just say that some of the drilled holes came out looking less than pleasant..:cry: I might be wrong here (would'nt be the first time if so), but if you are using metal pins (nails) from a pneumatic nail-gun then I would at least make shure all the surfaces allign perfectly. So you get the best possible glue joint strenght. Nails are really good for static objects. But screws or glued woodplugs are much better for ... well ... non-static stuff.. ?