Brewnix
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Posts posted by Brewnix
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Nice! Thanks for posting this. I'm thinking I'm gonna try one of them in ABS.
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Awesome machine. That looks like the Samsung O you have hanging there? Curious on how the HMD tracking is while moving?
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I am the person mentioned above. I have finally gotten SLI to work with the 2000 series cards but it is wonky and has several bugs (some of which I have fixed and many others that I have not had time to get to). I teach at the university and conduct research and just do not have the time and resources right now to release what I have done to the public. (and only two people have ever contacted me about VR with SLI anyway, so I suspect the market is tiny) Over the summer of 2019, I may revisit my work and see if I can improve it, but for now, it is on hiatus. Apologies.
AureliusAugustus, I just wanted to say thanks for your efforts. Thanks for stopping by too. Real life always matters first maybe one day this bubble will explode and SLI or NVlink will be main stream.
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Here's a thread the author is testing and experimenting with making it work. Just thought I post a FYI if you have not seen it.
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No i don't mind the questions at all I was just thinking maybe we could combine efforts or any ideas on making these work. Im learning Fusion 360, And its a steady 45 degree angle for me. But anyways I guess I can set a drop box account or send email of files back and forth. Technically I draw them 2d first and then I can save them as a DXF file. The posted pic above was made because the top layer of panels needs lettering so I figured I would make those in Inkscape and saved as a PDF, they came out alright just not perfect.
I m working on the DropBox thing so stand by.
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I do plan to post the files. Just struggling to make them. Do you have any cad experience?Please please please release the files! I don't own a 3D printer but am in current contact with a perspex laser cutting company here in London who are doing some work for me and I think the combination of laser cutting and raster engraving (laser etching) would be awesome:)
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Sorry I didn't answer all your questions, I buy my ABS plastic from here,
https://3dfillies.com/abs-filament-175mm-1kg/
The slicer is Zortrax's Z-Suite. It's worth investing in a decent printer to avoid being caught up with printer issues. I CAD the design during the day/evening and before I go to bed I set the printer going, by morning it's usually complete. My cheap Chinese printer before it was a right pain, I wasted weeks trying to get a consistently good print. In the end out of sheer frustration I bought the M200, around 2000+hours printing time later it's still going strong. The only maintenance is three nozzle changes. The amount of time saved easily justifies the price.
cheers
John
No problem. I appreciate your time. Man there is truth to that statement. I have had good luck with my Anycubic. But I did buy it expecting the worse that the controller board wouldn't work when I got it. And would have to upgrade some thing. I bought it for 300 bucks thinking if it didn't work I would have a semi working chassis I could manipulate a fairly good board in it.
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already so i have been drowning my self in Fusion 360 and inkscape I have 2 things I drew up I planing making some how. So far this is what I got. This is close to scale by eye ball I have no idea exact measurements but im am tayloring them to the 3d printed hud I found on ebay. Just wanted to share! First thing I did I drew them in Fus360 then saved them as a DXF file then added the lettering in Inkscape then saved them as a PDF. I do plan to post the files so them can be downloaded if anyone wants even correct or add to. I am definitely game for help on creating these or even constructive criticism. I plane to 3d print the boxes and top plates to hold the buttons and rotary encoders that I am going to use. I have been inspired by the other 3d printed projects on this forum.
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Hi Brewnix,
No cleanup and I've only vapor bathed the control knobs on the right hand side.
Yes printing with ABS, generally 0.19mm layer height. The top section of this box was at 0.14mm. The top 2mm plate was printed as a separate flat on the bed. The Zortrax printer is made to print ABS, I pry the parts of the bed, remove the supports and assemble.
cheers
John
Ok Thanks!
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What about NVLink? I think this might be a game changer in the world video cards. My next card will be 2080 just cause Nvidia did a stupid thing only the 2080 and 2080ti are the only cards that support it. But to have ram combined and what ever else it does sounds like it would be good for gaming.
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Small update, created new side car to handle the canopy control and the FCS BIT switch. These vertical modules have been updated to allow them to be run up along the side of the standard modules. The last photo shows how they're connected.
Undershot that shows how the modules are connected together.
cheers
John
Hey Blue73, I was wondering if you are printing the boxes in ABS? I am sorry if its been posted already. I was trying to cruise thru the thread from start to finish but I gave up at page 6. Any ways if you are I was curious what settings are you using? I have been struggling to print ABS. And I been noticing your prints are really good and looks like there are no flaws and seem to have no clean up or clean up real nice. But when you get chance I like to hear your setup which brand of plastic and what slicer? Thanks!
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I just tested where my mouse works fine and as soon as I put a finger of the sensor on the inside of the HMD the mouse stops. This must have something to do with mouse simulation.
I mentioned in the previous message that the DCS icon would not show up or seemed not to be selected. If I don't do anything the mouse seems to be fine. iT IS very intermittend, I bought this RTX270 as an open box item. I am going to return it and swap it for one new. just a few more $$$
Peter
I have this mouse issue too I believe its problem with O+ app and hand controls. I use to just start O+ app and then run DCS with out hand controls, I have not done a lot of investigating other then I remember I have not had this problem as long as I have a hand controller on and in sync with the O+ app. Maybe coincidence. But I all ways got the feeling the O+ app with out hand controllers was stealing the mouse.
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Have you tried closing the window after the first bind. So open the controls page bind a axis and then click ok to close then reopen controls again? So essentially do each control one at a time.
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Very nice. So that will slip over the side of the Warthog throttle? This is a great Idea!
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One of the simplest things for me to set IPD was suggested by someone is to go outside the WMR cliffhouse, look at the stars - pick one, and then adjust your IPD wheel until the star is as clear as it can be.
Wow that is great advice!:thumbup:
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I finally broke down and bought my i9 9900k, z390 mobo, and m2 Drive. My previous build was i7 6700k @4.7GHz & 850 Pro SSD. The case the i9 comes in is a little overkill but it's nice though. :) After some stress tests, I have it stable @5.2GHz & 1.425v right now, but I haven't tried any higher yet. The only benefit I've noticed with the m2 drive so far is when I copied my old DCS folder(~155Gb) to the new location which took a few minutes. However, I haven't noticed any loading improvements though. Caucasus still takes the longest, and the initial shader load still took a while. Starting up on the Stennis, the fps were about the same as before between 30-47 fps. Probably because I'm still using the animated deck crew and parked static planes. I started flying and I had absolutely NO STUTTERS. I couldn't believe how smooth it was. I would always get these random stutters which got worse with version 2.5.4. I only got half way through the mission though, because, unfortunately for me, my Cougar gimbal broke.:cry: If I can't find any spare parts for this old Cougar, I'll look into getting a Warthog, which means my 2080ti purchase has been delayed.:cry:
Hey Pimp if this is the same Cougar, just in case you have not seen it here's is a 3d printed one. Of course just a FYI I would not hold anybody back from buying new equipment.
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Ah got it.
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Does anyone know the documention on how the AXIS to Button works? I have it setup and when the joystick enters the range it fires the hardware button red, but when leaving the range the red square doesn't turn off, like the button stays on.
Can you explain a little more about your setup and hardware. And what function in DCS you are trying to activate? Are you trying to use a "potentiometer " to activate a button?
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Hi again Andre:
I've received my Buttkicker G2 and have it set up and running using Voicemetter ( not VM Banana) along with my Jetseat KW-908 and SSA. I was reviewing the Sound Module pay ware add-on and was wondering whether its suitable for my setup since I noticed the user manual specifies that the SM software is not intended for use with my Jetseat. Your advice please.
Thanks again,
Mike
Hi mikemadmax20 I use Andre's sound module and so I am not familiar with using the Voicemeter. So can you separate the different aircraft functions thru voice meter? That would be the difference. Able to adjust the same functions individually thru sound module even left and right with 2 Buttkickers.
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Server has settings can be turned on or off for this.
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Hi. So I have the same files. I have tried to open them in Inkscape and Fusion 360 as a DXF file. But both programs error'd out wouldn't open it. I did how ever open the PDF's of the Panels in Inkscape and converted it to a DXF. I opened PDF went to "save file as" renamed and selected "Desktop Cutting Plotter(autocad dxf R 14)(.dxf)" and then I could import it to F360. Maybe might work for FreeCAD
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I'm having insanely long load times (10+ minutes) when using VR, but if I play pancake mode, I'm up and running in under 3 minutes. Anyone else have this problem or ideas on why this happens?
LOL! "Pancake mode" I like that. Sorry didn't mean to derail the thread made me chuckle.
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Sliding hinged throttle mounting plate ?
Yes, that is what I was thinking untighten the wingnuts and pull up and put the other in its spot retighten wing nuts with oversize washers.
Gimbal mechanics for 3D pinter
in PC Hardware and Related Software
Posted
@propeler, Thanks for the files in githhub…. Personally I don't have access to Solidworks. I have been using Fusion 360 for my printing needs.
@Biggus You know when I bought my printer, I was on the fence because it was 100% hobby thing. I have more of a interest in metal working and machining then plastic. But man once I got it, its really addicting and satisfying to draw something and print it up. I bought it to print knobs and stuff for the "pending thought" in my head of the cockpit I plan to build.