LuckyStiff63

My order was delivered Wed night about 7:30PM, in one medium-sized box that contained 4 boxes with the individual bases & grips. There were only a couple of small "dings" in the outer box, but the boxes inside are all pristine. I hope yours arrived safe & unmolested by Fedex. Enjoy your new controls... I know I will!

I got my delivery last night (Wed 11/27) after a slight delay due to a damaged shipping label. That's still less than 5 days from ordering to delivery, and at the busiest time of years for shipping. Not too shabby!

I'm pretty spoiled that way, too: I blame Amazon Prime, personally. There's pretty much nothing around here except for Office Max and Best buy about an hour away, so all my toys get shipped. I'm still figuring out the rough measurements and chair-gonomics of the mounts I want to build. This setup definitely deserves better than being suction-cupped or velcro'd to my desktop.

I ordered from Winwing after 11pm Friday night , and FedEx says they should deliver tomorrow (Wed) to the Savannah, GA area. That's delivery in only 5 days, at the busiest time of the year. So maybe they're improving? But I could always add a note in my feedback saying they should just let Blackhawk163 come pick up damn his stuff, already!! Might not help, but it couldn't hurt, right?

Funny you should mention paint drying: I'm replacing the trim in several rooms, so I have a lot of opportunity to watch that here. I placed my order on Friday the 22nd, and I got an email yesterday with a tracking number. So far, the status is still "awaiting pickup by carrier". I'm playing around with some ideas for DIY chair mounts to keep busy. When I'm not doing trim work, that is. I went through USCG boot camp in Cape May in Jan & Feb, 34 years ago. That's a nice town to visit, but it wasn't a very relaxing vacation.

That's precisely what the MFSSB stick base does. In a "fly by wire" control system, Rather than registering control surface inputs based on how far you move the stick, the stick stays nearly stationary (about 1/4" deflection from center), and the load cells in the base read how hard you push/pull on the stick. For me, the differnce is a real game-changer. I loved it from the first flight with my old X-65f, and I don't know If I could ever go back, except for the possible exception of rotor-wing flight.

I guess I'm about to find out whether I chose wisely. If the MFSSB doesn't work for me after a decent trial period, I'll probably spend the extra Benjamin on 2 cam & spring kits, and hopefully end up with a decently customizable conventional stick that I can even configure for use as a cyclic, and a set of force-sensing modules that I could probably sell to make up some of my sunk costs. Even if all else was equal the added costs for USA VKB or Virpil buyers make them significantly more expensive. I got "free" shipping (are we really supposed to believe we aren't actually paying for that? lol) from WinWing's North American warehouse, while shipping alone for a VKB Gladiator and STECS Max was over $150, if memory serves. And then there are apparently added taxes and customs fees for those, too. Now I get to read-up on my new gear and software, order a couple of powered 6-8 port USB hubs, and look for some decent chair mounts (or start building my own) while I check my order status every few hours to see if they've shipped yet. I guess a simmer's work really is "never done".

Your explanation of why WW discontinued the MFSSB upgrade kit is exactly the way I remember reading it somewhere on their site. I'm not sure if the difficulty was with adding the limit reeds, or adjusting the set screws afterwards to properly center the stick, but they apparently had to resolve enough support tickets that they killed the idea. I've gained some good info from MFSSB users on r/hotas, and one especially helpful redditor said his base came with a set of the Orion 2's non-centering cams and default (weak?) springs. I don't remember seeing those listed in the "what's included" section of the product info, so maybe they've discontinued that practice as well, if it led to too many support calls. If I really needed a "traditional" base, I think I would probably just buy a 2nd one and swap them as needed.

AvgWhiteGuy: I hope I'm not hijacking your thread here. That certainly isn't my intent. I figured asking follow-on questions after 2 months was fine, but just let me know if you'd like me to "move along". Thanks loads for the info. I guessed the dampers might be needed to keep the stick from banging around when used as a cyclic, and now I know. I won't be using the stick as a cyclic anytime soon. I think I would probably convert the base back to springs & cams for that, as the entire idea of a "force sensing cyclic" just seems 'all kinds of wrong', and probably wouldn't be much fun if you could get it working somehow. I have a tube of 767A I bought specifically for whatever new HOTAS I land on, my new baby, and it's just dying to be used. I've never owned a stick with a dust boot, so I lack perspective on that point. Can I assume that issue is mostly a concern for rotor-wing flight? Thanks, that's good to know. I wondered if there might still be springs used somewhere to help keep the stick centered when no force is applied, but apparently that's not needed. Do you know whether the spring & cam kit would allow me to convert from MFSSB to a regular Orion 2 base, or whether other parts would be needed? If so, I might go ahead and get them just in case. I appreciate both of your quick replies.

I'm looking for this kind of info on WW gear, too. It's pretty puzzling why a manufacturer would create "How to install" manuals for their products, but they never explain what specific parts do, when (or not) to use them, or how they affect the overall response of the controls. I cant find an answer to a simple question like: "If I buy the MFSSB base, can I even use any of the parts in the cam & spring kit?" It's pretty crazy, and definitely frustrating.

Holy mother of all necro-posts, Batman! I figured someone else might benefit from seeing this one get a refresh. I have that same set of pedals, and after years of moderately heavy use, I had this EXACT same failure happen last night. The exact same wire from my right toe brake broke rather cleanly, just as yours did. In my case, I can only access one end of the wire - the other is hidden somewhere up under the main arm right at the center support, and the wire bundle is fastened down tight up under there somehow. I'll probably repeat your repair method, except for fully disassembling the internals to completely remove the broken wire. The trained electronics tech in me screams "NEVER leave wires with loose ends in any energized equipment!" But the practical DIY guy is telling him to sit down and shut up - This is only a 5VDC system, and I can remove most of the old wire. UPDATE: The fix was pretty straight-forward. I ran new 22awg silicone wire (for flexibility) from the right toe brake pot, and soldered it to the broken wire end coming from the JST(?) connector on the PCB, running and securing the wire with the other 2 in the bundle, and everything tests good. Easy-peasy.

Necro-Post, but may be useful to someone else... I use an X-65f too. I love this thing! I hate the Saitek software, but the hardware is solid! To add my $0.02, WAAAaaay back in 1994 when I got my first Thrustmaster HOTAS, I started developing my own "standard" or "Template" for control function placement. Since most sims/games will have at least SOME functions in common, and I was working with a single set of physical controls, I would map the specific "functions" available in any given sim or game to the same physical control whenever possible. For instance: In my standard control scheme, the "Pickle Button" or "A" button for the X-65F is "Fire Missile", which can also be used for "Release Weapon" (bombs), or Fire Secondary Weapon". The point is that if I want to fire missiles, drop bombs, or any other "Non-Gun" weapon, this is the button I use. Keeping this standard has made it MUCH easier to transition from game to game, since there are fewer differences in the control layout. This is especially true when you play more than one game in a given day. I also standardized other aspects of my control setup, such as function labels, and how to use the "Mode" switch: "M1" is my default for Air-to-Air combat. M2 is Air-to-Ground, M3 is Navigation, and M4 is Ground Ops (take-off and landing). I developed an excel spreadsheet that allows me to categorize a game's FUNCTIONS into logical groups (Flight Controls, Weapons, Radar/Avionics, Countermeasures, etc). This helps me see how closely I can map the in-game functions to my "Standard" physical control layout. The A-10C is a bit of a different animal, though. For this Sim, I have decided to use the Control configuration function in DCS World to map the A-10's default DMS/CMS/TMS functions, as closely as I can to the physical controls in the actual Aircraft. Of course, since the X-65F doesn't have the same physical controls as an A-10 stick, there will be some differences.

Way-Back machine. I'm an "Old Guy". I've been running flight sims on the PC platform since 1991, and I bought my first HOTAS setup in 1994: A Thrust Master FLCS / WCS that I used so much that I had to replace the pots twice, along with springs and some of the switches. A little later I upgraded to the TM F-16FLCS and F-16 TQS, and again went through multiple sets of Pots. Those early Thrust Masters were built like a TANK, easy to program, and just plain WORKED. Not to mention there was community-created software (FOX-2) for programming available, and TM really supported their customers back then. I took a break from 'simming for about 8-9 years, and (no surprise) when i came back, my trusty old sticks weren't supported on the newer hardware platforms - the old, analog "gameport" was replaced by USB. So after absorbing more hands-on product reviews and online "discussions" than I thought was humanly possible about the 3 main HOTAS setups available at the time (TM, Logitech, and Saitek) , in January 2011 I bought Saitek's X-65f. And although I have had occasional minor issues with it, I LOVE this hunk of hardware to death. It was far easier than I thought it would be for me to make the switch from "Gimbal & Spring" to Force-Sensing" or "Load-cell" based controls. My problem with Saitek has been the SOFTWARE they provide for creating profiles, and their rather spotty support for the product. It seems like Saitek pretty much gave up on the X-65f within a year or two after I bought mine. To this day, I haven't seen any official mention of DCS sims on the Saitek/Madcatz site, (with the exception of forum posts from other customers) let alone any real help configuring their product for use with any of the DCS aircraft. I realize that controllers for Flight / Space sims appeal only to a niche market that doesn't guarantee gazillions of sales per unit like console controllers do. I also understand that a decent HOTAS system is far more complex, and expensive to manufacture than XBONE/PS4 pads, and that the lack of standardization for in-game control mapping for non-console games leads to a huge array of possible configurations that make support dicier. But with the recent availablility of consumer-level VR, which suffers from many of the same challenges, it seems to me that by now, SOMEONE in the industry should have been able to design, build, AND provide long-term, quality SUPPORT for a HOTAS as DURABLE as the TM Warthog and X-65f, that includes force-feedback and a common-sense approach to programming. Or is that really just too much to ask? We can all hope that maybe....just maybe, Logitech's purchase of Saitek will lead us further down that taxiway. But I won't hold my breath. -- Check Six!

I realize this is a Necro-post, but I figured if I am looking for this info 8 months later, maybe others are too? I had the same problem as the OP when I installed the Huey Module (v1.2.16) earlier this month, so apparently whatever causes the initial problem still exists? I was also rather puzzled when the Huey's default skin for the training missions was a Civilian skin, and the default load-out for the "Weapons Employment" mission didn't include M-60's for the door-gunner positions. I edited the mission .miz file to fix the loadout and default skin issues, but I find that TrackIR aiming for the co-pilot seat is bugged for me. My in-cockpit view shows the flex sight tracking properly, but when I Aim LEFT, and then switch to the F2 view, the mini's are actually pointing to the RIGHT. This reversal happens only in the horizontal axis - vertical muzzle deflection tracks true to my aim. The problem also applies only to the Mini-guns. The TrackIR aiming function works properly for the door gunner positions. I don't know enough about the code behind the TrackIR aim function to even make a SWAG about why it works properly for door guns, but reverses for the Minis? TrackIR Aiming appears to be a simple "on/off" option under the "Special" options tab, with no corresponding axis to "tune" under the controls tab. And even if I could find a way to "invert" the TrackIR horizontal axis specifically for the TrackIR Aim function, I believe that would just switch the problem behavior from the Minis to the door guns. Am I missing something here?

MemphisBelle: I'm a new DCS sim-pilot in the beginning stages of figuring out how to configure my controls (Saitek X-65F & Combat Rudder Pedals, Thrustmaster MFD Cougar, and Track-IR5) for DCS. I can program the X-65f very well, and the TM MFD controllers seem easy to program as well, but I'm having difficulty finding info specifically on the DCS control setup GUI beyond what is in the DCS World Manual and the "DCS World Input Controller Walkthrough". Since CHARLY_OWL has been kind enough to create aircraft guides that apparently also cover control config, I'll have to check out his A-10C guide. Thanks for sharing your work, Mr. Owl! I'll continue looking for info while getting my controls to work the way I want them to in DCS, and If I find anything useful, I'll let you know.

As a "new guy".. For an aircraft guide, I'd vote for the A-10C. For non-aircraft subjects, how about one on getting this tangled mess of controller hardware & software on, around, and under my desk-pit to play nice with each other in DCS world? I have been reading through the DCS Manuals, but there's a lot that is left unexplained. Hopefully there is a 'N00bs guide to controller config" here in the Forum gold mine somewhere.

Get some? I GOT some! I'm a flight sim old-timer who just downloaded DCS World for the first time 3 weeks ago. I missed ED's Spring Sale by a month, and I had started learning how DCS works, getting my control rig configured for the SU-25T and learning the aircraft... ... And THEN the Summer sale hit. Apparently, the DCS bug needs less than 3 weeks to incubate, because I rolled the dice and bought FC3, BS2, A-10C, CA, and the SU-27 'Ultimate Argument" campaign, ALL FOR UNDER $100! Ya gotta love a deal like that.

Hopefully you wont need it but, mwheeleer, I left a reply to your screen-shot post. Hopefully by now you have DCS World up and running, but if not, take a look at my post over there.

Looks like 2 of your downloaded files are the wrong size? MWHEELER: I compared the files shown in your screencap to the files I downloaded about a week ago (same version of DCS World), and I noticed that 2 files you downloaded are MUCH smaller than the same files I used for a successful install. YOUR file named "DCS_World_1.2.16.38741.722-423-1.bin" is only 328.766KB (328.7MB), but my download of that file is a whole lot bigger: 1,950,352KB (1.95GB, about 6x larger than your file) AND: YOUR file named "DCS_World_1.2.16.38741.722-423-3.bin" is 246,979KB, where mine is 1,953,125. You might want to delete and re-acquire those two those faulty files and try the install routine again. :thumbup: Let me know how it goes, - Lucky

Check out the Maximum PC Magazine site. @MWHEELER: You might want to check out the Maximum PC Magazine site. I recommend their "Build a PC" section a lot (even to those who already know how to build a PC) due to the info they provide on choosing the right mix of components for your needs. Their "Best of the Best" list is good for checking out components at the high-end of the performance scale. I have built PC's for over 20 years, and I read every issue to keep up to speed. Over the last 10 years I have come to trust MAX-PC's recommendations due to their testing methodology and the way they lay out the gains and trade-offs for any given component choice. I'm not sure what your actual budget looks like, but for a capable gaming system that should keep you flying for a couple of years, I agree with most of the posts here in that you won't go wrong with a quad-core Intel (Core i5 or i7) CPU, a motherboard with SATA 6gb, USB3, PCI Express 2.0 (or higher) and room for at least 16GB of RAM (even if you don't get all 16GB right now). Add the best graphics processor you can (I gotta tell you, I love my GTX-970!), and don't forget a DECENT Power Supply is critical- everything else in the system depends on it! Best of luck, and let us know what setup you land on -------------------------------(see what I did there? ) --------- - Lucky ************************************************************* My Rig: (Note- My rig isn't a dedicated game system. I do CPU-intensive media editing and recoding which makes use of the 6-core CPU. So this is a lot of overkill for your stated needs. Still, this setup gets me over 100FPS in DCS World single-player mode with HIGH settings & 8x MSAA @ 1920x1080 without breaking a sweat. ) PSU: EVGA Supernova 850W Mobo: ASROCK X99 Extreme4 CPU: Core i7 5820K @3.4GHz (Stock speeds for now) Cooling: Corsair H100i closed-loop liquid RAM: 16GB G.Skill Ripjaws DDR4 2666MHz GPU: Gigabyte G1 Gaming GTX 970 4GB SSD: Samsung 840EVO 250GB HD: Seagate 2TB BDR: Lite-On iHSB212 Case: Coolermaster Storm Sniper HOTAS: Saitek X-65F Force-Sensing (unfortunately no longer in production)

Gigabyte GTX970 4GB OC

GIGABYTE GTX 970 4GB. Running stock speeds for now. :thumbup: