Fubarbrickdust

I potentially have the same issue - would you mind letting me know more of the details regarding what the problem was and what was done to fix it? I've not had my V3 for very long and have only had v2.75 of the platform manager. The V3 is fine and motion runs great on the other games I use it for (Project Cars 2 & Assetto Corsa), but it just doesn't want to do its thing for DCS 2.5 OB. Unfortunately I can't verify wether it is a Platform Manager v2.75 vs 2.73 issue as there's no way to download the previous version. But I thought I'd ask you about it as the problem sounds pretty much identical. I downloaded and reinstalled the PM from the NLR site incase they'd already updated the build but the issue remains. I've checked the DCS export script and it appears to be pointing to the right place. I'm a bit of a NLR V3 noob so thought I'd ask... Cheers.

Granted. And it's cool to hear it's a bug that's on the radar for ED. None the less, Keshmen asked for help, and making this particular tweak in the settings does allow the overlay to display without truncation inside the HMD(Oculus Rift...I haven't a Vive to test with). It certainly does in my case. I've just tested again by A > B verifying on my setup. EDIT: Just did some more testing - 4:3, 3:2 & 16:10 also have the effect of allowing the overlays to display without problems. On my particular setup, it seems that only 16:9 causes the overlays to be cut off. Just in the off chance that attached HW does play a part - for info, I'm running a 27" 1440p GSYNC monitor off a GTX 1080ti

Setting screen aspect ratio to 5:4 in the ‘system settings’ fixes this little issue I believe.

Oh yes, I am aware of these options but thank you - The idea I was suggesting is to do away with the need for these steps and outside applications entirely and have it as a setting with an 'in game' drop down selection box or the like. I am also aware that you can set PD and ASW mode as a per application profile using OTT - however, I have noticed that there may be a bug (or something I'm doing wrong, perhaps) with this in that it applies the PD without issue, but the ASW mode does not and I have to manually de-select and the re-select my preferred ASW mode for it to apply in game. It may have something to do with the fact that I set the Oculus Client to 'run as administrator' so that it doesn't launch Oculus Home whenever I play a non Home game - But I wouldn't imagine why, for as far as my humble understanding goes all the PD and ASW stuff is done at the API/runtime level. In any case, I'd rather not have Home launching and running every time I fire up DCS. In any given DCS session I already have DCS, Voice Attack (ViacomPro), Simshaker for Aviators, Discord and Joystick Gremlin running to facilitate my setup. I'll take any opportunity to trim the application 'fat' where I can. Thanks for the advice though :)

Much like they have the PD slider in the options. Would be a nice little quality of life improvement to be able to set the ASW mode (OFF/AUTO/45 LOCKED) in game and have it apply on launch. I know it can be achieved with the debug tool or OTT - but the same could be said for pixel density. Besides, it's another layer of fiddling about and running apps before launching DCS. I have absolutely no idea of how easy or hard it would be to implement, or if indeed it's possible at all - but it would be nice to have it all under one roof and do away with the debug/OTT altogether entirely. Just a thought...

What would be quite a nice little quality of life addition is the ability to set/force a desired ASW mode from within the game, alongside the PD slider. I'm well aware that this can be achieved using either the Oculus debug tool or OTT - But the quirk with that is using the debug tool you have to manually set anything other than 'AUTO', and for OTT there seems to be an issue with profiles not setting your choice for ASW on app launch, and to achieve the desired setting I have to manually flip from say 45 locked, to auto and then back to 45 locked for it to stick. That might be just me, maybe I'm doing something wrong...but it's extra steps all the same. It'd be nice to have a setting for it in game that applies and stick upon launch. Just a thought. I might stick that one in the proper 'wishlist' thread - does anyone know if the ED devs frequent that one?

* the bed!...that was quick! :pilotfly:

As a fellow VR flyer this was an insta-buy for me :) Just got it up and running, been having a play around - Very impressed! Awesome bit of code dude! :thumbup: I can however confirm the same issue with the F-5 ground crew that epolta reported - connect air/apply air/chocks, etc. All recognised by VCP, VA and DCS...just that nothing's happening. No major fuss as there's bound to be a few teething issues with something this deep. I've no doubt it'll get squashed. Is there anything I can provide to help narrow it down, logs, etc? Once again...:thumbup: EDIT: lol, just got ninja'd by the dude above!

Nice one. PM sent :thumbup:

UPDATE No.2: Not the best of news unfortunately :unsure: The 2nd round of troubleshooting included all of the above - I was kind of hoping it would've been a wiring issue as Sporg suggested might be a possibility, as that would've been a clear and obvious fix. No joy - The wiring is good, no kinks, stretches or damage of any kind. The distribution PCB is good with no obvious issues upon a visual inspection. And the whole run from PCB to motor terminals gave a solid reading and continuity when checked with the multimeter, I even made up a new loom and tested just in case I was having a blonde moment...The run is all good. Opened up the control unit - No obvious visual issues at the time, the fuse inside was also good but that looks like it's just for the 5v USB feed. Not knowing any more regarding the unit, I closed it back up. Inspected and wiggled the 13pin DIN in use - all the pins are straight and inserting to the female DIN without issue. No change. Now here's where my luck starts running out! - Got the jetseat all laid out in prep to start sewing up the patient and throw in the towel. Gave all the motors I'd had out another service with the silicone spray lube in a last ditch attempt, y'never know, eh? (I noticed one of the right motors was a little stiffer to rotate with my finger when not powered, thought maybe it was drawing excess power to get up to speed, hence starving the other of it's required juice). Got it all back together and started (the now routine) batch of testing and running in with the UVWEditor - after about a minute both the motors on the lower right had a little fit and then stopped dead! Sh!t!... After getting the motors out and back on the bench it seems one of them either shorted or burned out as it now registers solid continuity and zero resistance across the terminals...How annoying. The other one is fine. Being as exacting as I am I now had to test the whole circuit again and here's where I finally have to hold my hands up in defeat - The signal/voltage supply from the control unit/distro board for the lower right motors is now dead and non existent. Initially testing the power feed, which read between 5-7ish volts across the terminals when in use on the working left side is non existent when moving the motors over to the right side loom. All other distribution supplies are working (e.g. Upper & Lower L/R back motors, and lower left seat motors). Something happened when the motor failed that took out something else in the system. It could've been related to the initial issue being experienced, but then equally, it may not have, who knows. Unfortunately for me I'm out of ideas and wisdom. Broken Jetseat - Best case scenario = 1 busted motor+1 busted control unit. Ouch! So. Andre! - I feel another purchase of a Jetseat headed your way!:thumbup: In all seriousness, if you have any other intermediary suggestions I am all ears. But I think that's the hole I've dug myself into. You've been very forthcoming with the offer of replacement parts under the warranty so far, which has been appreciated and reassuring. I'm secretly hoping that avenue might still be on the cards in some shape or form...but in reality, given the fact that I've essentially been playing a game of 'Operation' with my Jetseat, and be it coincidence or not my intervention has only worsened the case, I feel even the the slightest suggestion of that nature from my end should be rightfully met with laughter! Such is life I guess, I will show no fear when doing this kind of work...I can't win every battle using a soldering iron! I'm more inclined to continue this discussion via PM or email as it no longer really serves any purpose of information for the community (aside from my shame and a warning not to meddle with a grumpy Jetseat) so do feel free to contact me either way to get the issue sorted, however that might be. That's the thing about using DCS with SSA and a Jetseat - Once you've experienced it and used them for any length of time the thought of flying without one is instantly dismissed as ridiculous!!! - it's like the heroin of sim immersion! Buyer beware! :pilotfly:

I certainly will do...I'll be as thorough as I can looking for the problem. Hopefully it won't come to that, but I appreciate the reassurance of your gesture :thumbup: Thanks for the heads-up, Sporg. Yeah, I've already managed to wrestle the seat inside out using the opening you've suggested...certainly makes it easier to perform the necessary surgery! Checking the integrity of the cable runs was on the list of things to check...but it's now straight to the top after your advice/insight. In fact, thinking about it with a logical head, it should have been one of the 1st things I investigated after discovering a motor swap resulted in the same issue. Thanks though, much appreciated. I'll keep an update going in this thread in case others encounter the same issue.

No problem at all, thank you for clarifying - at least it rules out available amps as an issue. I will investigate more when I am not at work. Thanks.

UPDATE: Andre, there is no need to send a replacement motor - it is not at fault. I did some more troubleshooting where I desoldered the lower left/right motors and swapped them over...the problem still persists on the right hand side even with a different motor. As well, the left was functioning perfectly with the motor from the right. This was all tested with a basic and even effect in the UVEditor. This leads me to guess that the issue is further up the chain - maybe a problem with power delivery to the lower right side motors(?). I will investigate the main circuit board in the Jetseat later so see if there is any obvious problem (bad connection or loose/broken component). Is it ok if I keep you in the loop with information and questions if need be? I'm quite technically proficient, but I reckon you will have more experience and knowledge with the Jetseat than I do...it may come in handy to have a more knowledgable brain to pick :thumbup: Also, I haven't ruled out the possibility that it's not getting enough juice - my PSU is 12v, 1.5A - is that amperage equal to or above the one originally provided? (I'm pretty sure I checked at the time to make sure it was adequate, but I couldn't find my original one to double check). Many thanks, Fubar.

Hi Andre, thank you for the reply, Ah, I see...I did not realise they were bespoke eccentrics (heads). I thought it would be easy enough to find a suitable replacement. I intended to swap them out as a pair just in case. Oh well. And yes, thank you for the link - I already discovered the video and lubricated the motor without success :/ I also reloaded the firmware to no avail. But. I have to say I'm very pleased with the other option you suggest! :) Thank you, that would be brilliant. I would like to say yes and take you up on the offer. What details/info do you need from me? I can send it via a PM if you don't have my records still on file. Kind regards, Fubar (Fin). PS - Is this an issue that you have encountered before? Weak/noisy motor? I would imagine it is quite rare if so as I haven't been able to find any other reports. Just thought I'd ask as I'm hoping a motor swap will resolve the problem...hopefully it's not a more complicated issue. Thanks again.

Quick question for Andre (or anyone else that knows the specifics)... What are the specs of the vibration motors in the Jetseat? More precisely - the voltage and rpm? An educated guess would tell me that they are 12v given that's the rated supply for the PSU, but with the rpm I wouldn't have a clue. I think I've got a dodgy motor...after a long running issue I think I've narrowed it down (at last) - my bottom right motor seems to output a lot lest than the others. The issue is masked when the motor is activated in short bursts or driven at 100%, but with more focused investigation it's still much weaker than the rest. This results in a large imbalance of effects when using SSA, which after a lot of initial testing led me to the incorrect conclusion that it was in some way related to the software. Months later, and with no similar reports from the community I had to take a step deeper and look closer at the hardware...sure enough, there's definitely something off with the motor in question. It also generates a sort of high pitched buzzing/whirring sound which is really noticeable at lower intensities that the others do not exhibit. Also, before I go ahead with my assumption - does anyone know whether the motors receive their power in series or parallel...I'm wondering if it might be anamperage issue, and that motor is the last in a chain and possibly struggling to get the juice it needs. That one crossed my mind as I had to find a replacement 12v psu...maybe it hasn't the same amp headroom as the original. I think it's time to break out the modding/repairing hat! Any and all insight welcome... Thanks, Fubar. EDIT: Just found this thread, which potentially answers my series/parallel question with the image.

Thank you very much :thumbup:

Quick question for the devs (or anyone else that might know): Where does SimShaker store it user settings/config file(s)? I'm reformatting my PC and would like to carry the file over if possible...it'd be a pain to set up all those module profiles again... Cheers, Fubar.

I have noticed this too. However, for me the strength of the effect depends on the cannon rate of fire selected - if the ROF is set to low the effect is normal, if set to high the effect is noticeably weak. I wonder if that is the same for you?

Thanks :thumbup: I'm actually quite pleased with the latest revision of the panel. Yes. You're understanding it perfectly - In the aftermath of the stick mod there was just the carcass of the base with a hulking great square hole in it. I considered that it'd be the perfect starting place for a control panel chassis as it was exactly the same dimensions as the throttle base, complete with M6 mounting holes for machine bolts, etc. Unfortunately I don't have any pics of the build process as I didn't take any at the time. I only opened it up today for the purpose of this thread. But do feel free to ask any specifics and I'll do my best to answer. The aesthetics of the panel are actually a by-product of the design brief I'd set myself, I'd made a few attempts at panels before and learned a few things in the process: The 'module panels' look is only present because I'd like the ability to change my mind regarding certain elements of the panel if I choose, also, from experience, there's nothing worse than finalising a layout and then making a foolish mistake toward the end of the hole cutting process and fouling the whole board because you pissed up one of the switch or button mounts!...very annoying and wasteful. Doing the panel in 'modules' affords the ability to make the odd mistake and not ruin the whole dish as it were. A bit of advice if you're ever gonna hand make yourself a panel - Try to avoid using buttons or switches that require square panel holes! It's doable, but a real headache! I learned that one a while ago. The other design criteria that greatly affected the look of the panel (ironically) is the fact that I fly exclusively in VR, which effectively means blindfolded to the outside world. Pretty much all of the component and layout choices are based solely with that in mind - the layout and literal feel of the panel had to be varied yet intuitive enough to easily navigate by feel alone. When you look at the panel with those thoughts in mind you can sort of see those choices click into play, and why it's laid out and looks the way it does. Of course, I didn't need to spray it all black...but what decent bit of tech doesn't come in black?! (MFG Crosswinds not included in that comment, of course.)

Thanks :thumbup: If I consider - I've actually spent more time of late messing and tweaking with hardware than I have flying... ...Maybe I should look into a 'Ground Crew' sim as opposed to a combat flight one!

Here you go gents, all the info is here: https://forums.eagle.ru/showthread.php?t=184572

After posting my BRD-DS 'Raven' review there were a few questions directed at and regarding the mods I'd done to my (now) trusty old Saitek X-55... I thought I'd put up a little thread to answer those questions and do a bit of a show and tell as an example of what can be achieved with this HOTAS. Any and all questions welcome. Before starting a few credits are due - none of this would have been possible without the totally awesome MMJOY2 by mega_mozg_13, a really handy bit of code that can turn an Arduino Pro Micro (and others) into a USB HID controller that is seen by Windows as a standard DirectX Input Device. Very powerful. Highly configurable. Also, a little hidden gem called Joystick Gremlin by WhiteMagic - A very flexible open source joystick/game controller configuration utility suite - Think of it as T.A.R.G.E.T or Saitek SST but not manufacturer specific, it works for and can unify all your controllers regardless of make or model. Again, infinitely powerful. With this little bit of software, combined with clever use of the in-game modifier/switch facility you can create a very versatile and intuitive universal mode/layer profile for all your gear. I seriously recommend exploring the possibilities. So... Here's a shot of the whole family together (obviously the MFG's & BRD I can't take credit for): And the items that are the subject of this thread: MOD 1 - The Stick: I'll start with this one because as of the other week it's almost moot. It's no longer used and the grip has found a new home atop the awesome BRD-DS. -- Grip Mods -- The grip's internal wiring has been completely replaced as part of this mod, it was a requirement to use some of my button choices. Button replacements - Several buttons replaced with higher quality & feel variants. Hat Modifying - Attachments modified to stop wobbliness. Tops cut & shaped. Rubberized covers added. Comfort Mod - A bit of foam stuck to the hand rest... Weighting - Quite rudimentary but very effective: Copper coins bundled together in the right sizes with LX tape and then secured to any free space available inside the grip. Makes a very noticeable difference to the feel and action of the grip. No internal shots of this one, I'm afraid...it was an utter PITA to get it all in there and together. The thought of opening it makes me shudder! -- Base and Gimbal Mods -- Centre Mounting - Cut the business end out of the original base and rehoused in an aluminium box more suitable for centre mounting. Off-Axis Grip rotation - Made a new set of holes for the grip coupler split-pin, slightly off axis to the left. Achieved a much more comfortable experience. Zero Notch, Self Centring/Progressive Resistance - Removed Saitek centring components and implemented a different design using a swash-plate and springs. Not the most elegant solution, but it actually worked really well and exceeded my expectations. It's centring is quite accurate if you can believe. Here's what's left of it after the grip was given a better home (the 3 holes were from analogue rotaries and a rotary switch I had installed as part of the mod)... MOD 2 - The Throttle: Now this one is less of a mod and more of a complete re-tooling - There is hardly anything left of the original internals. None of the PCB's and most certainly none of the wiring. A massive re-arrangement of toggles and analogue rotaries has been implemented, more buttons and push button rotary encoders have been added in amongst other edits and additions. Useless mouse nipples have been tossed away! -- Throttle Mods -- Handle Extension - A 50mm extension has been added to both handles - The main reason for this was that I was non-plussed regarding the accessibility of the toggles on the right of the base during use...they were really awkward to use depending on the throttle position and in general. The other effect the extension provides is added travel to the arc of the handles, and by proxy, added precision to throttle adjustments...nice! This was quite a tough nut to crack - How to do it. How to integrate the extensions into the existing mechanics and design. How to make the handles more secure and less wobbly than the original method. How to make it so that it can be de-assembled for maintenance... For a while I couldn't figure it out and thought I'd just have to build a throttle mechanism from scratch if I wanted longer handles...but it came around in the end. The photos will explain it better, but it essentially uses various cuts of aluminium box tube - (per handle) One piece with a hole for wires in the recess of the base for the original handle legs, secured with the original machine screws/nuts, and then the extensions formed of 2 box halves that would the seat the handles themselves...all tied together with a quad of machine screws/nuts for the top and bottom ends. Job done. It works brilliantly. The channels in the base needed a couple of mm widening and a few other little bits of filing here and there but it was a solid fit. And along with these additional tweaks the wobble from the throttle is virtually eliminated! Electro-Mechanical Re-Order - Virtually none of the original switch, button and analogue rotary arrangement still exists. The two thumb analogue rotaries have been swapped out for push button endless encoders. Same for the rotaries on the base. The encoder that was on the left handle is now an analogue rotary (perfect for heli throttle or prop rpm). The slide 'spd brk' switch on the right throttle now actually works as a 2 button toggle, the list goes on...so the photos will fill it in: Why cut so many analogues? - I personally find that, in DCS, encoders are more flexible than analogues. Besides, I'm not having an analogue purge by any means...more on that with the next item. All of these mods have used the 'button matrix' method of connecting large amounts of inputs. Sure, I could've gone with shift registers but where's the fun in that!...I like tearing my hair out with brain overload! In truth, I've only just explored the subject of shift registers - Rest assured...anything else I do from now on will be based on this much more practical and hassle free solution! This is the hard way - Not so pretty on the inside: MOD 3 - Using What's Left Over: One could argue that the following does not qualify as an X-55 mod. However, it does use a few of the components from the throttle, and, it is housed in/on the discarded carcass of the X-55 Stick. And whatever, if I'm doing a thread about butchering and modding input devices I may as well throw in my own love-child! It's a control panel/button box, and where I chose to migrate the majority of my analogue controls to. Again, based on a MMJOY2/Pro Micro 'brain' - This is in fact the 4th iteration of this particular control panel. The design, configuration and layout of which has evolved over the past 6 months...I think this is it...or very nearly it. Pretty simple - Various electro-mechanical components. 5mm acrylic main panel. 3mm acrylic sub-panels. Lots of wires. Again, not so pretty! - It hurts my head just looking at it! Do note: that if any of this inspires you or gives any ideas for modding some of your own kit...It will totally and utterly void any warranty you might have! :thumbup: (Not that it matters with Saitek gear any more.)

Ahaa! You'll have to check out the thread I'll throw up regarding the mods I've done to this X-55. During my research into such things I've noticed you're quite active on the 'homebrew' threads - I reckon you'll raise an eyebrow :thumbup:

No problemo. It's pretty on topic so I'll explain here... The 'tweaking' mainly referred to rectifying the previous work I had done in replacing the internal wiring of the grip. In its stock form the only work you should have to do is remove the coupling connector from the shaft of the X-55 base (held in by a 'split pin' and slight glueing) and de-solder the round terminal contact plate from the base. Once removed it was a case of fixing the coupler to the adapter Baur provided, which was fairly straightforward: the adapter was sub-millimetre accurate...it took some pressure pushing on but it's so solid it hasn't required glueing in any way! After that it's a case of soldering the wires from the new controller board to the newly installed contact plate - 5 for the button shift register output (comes with the kit) and 3 for the twist axis pot (if you intend on retaining that function. The board has the facility to accommodate 4 axes). You will have to open up the plate on the bottom of the grip (2 screws, if I recall) to check your correct solder points...they're handily printed on the rear face if I recall. From the underside it looks like there's 10 contact points, but in reality there's only 8 - 5 for the register and 3 for the axis ( +, - and signal). It sounds complicated in writing but actually quite self explanitory when you have it in front of you... If you're seriously considering it, how's your soldering/wiring skills? The solder points on the contact plates are pretty tight! It took a squinted eye and a steady hand when I did it! EDIT: in fact, the terminal printing may well be on the base contact plate as well - so there may not be a need to open up the grip in any way. But I'm not 100% certain so don't hold me to that.

Heya Brewnix, Eagle eyed spot there. Your quite right, the handles are extended (50mm using alu box tube). In answer to your question, it greatly increases the available precision - the extension in height naturally increases the size of the arc and length of travel for the handles. That particular mod has two benefits - the buttons/switches directly beneath the right throttle are now a lot more accessible in use...one of a number of things that always niggled me with the X-55. As for the other question - Yes, I can certainly up some images and give some details on the mods, although, they are quite extensive and many of which aren't immediately obvious from the photo. It probably warrants a little thread of its own (not to derail this one) so I'll do just that on Monday when I'm at home. I'll fire a link up here when it's done.