Deltaalphalima1
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Posts posted by Deltaalphalima1
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20 hours ago, jackd said:
PS my X-axis works fine with your mounted button and FW 100, but the Y-axis keeps oscillating ... any ideas to fix this?
That is probably a calibration issue after the update, it shouldn't really change anything, but sometimes it seems to.
Can you try the calibration procedure and see if that fixes it?:
1: Clear any existing Windows calibration in the game controller menu by going to
Set up USB game controller >> Throttle HOTAS Warthog >> Settings >> Reset to Default >> Apply >>OK
(If Apply is greyed out then the calibration is already cleared, and you can move on to the next step.)
2: Check if you have any other joystick programs that could interfere with the calibration - such as TARGET or JoystickGremlin.
You may need to disable them while you run the calibration.
3: Download the latest version for the calibration tool from my website (Thumbstick_Sensor_Calibration_Tool)
Make sure you have extracted the zip file after downloading. The "A10_calibration.txt" file must be in the same folder "Throttle Warthog Calibration (V1.07).exe" is run from.
4: Run the calibration tool and carefully follow the on-screen instructions. It should run through all the way through with no error messages.
Be very careful to move the throttles to the OFF, IDLE and MAX positions when asked.
OFF is the fully back position over the detent lifts, IDLE is the next stop up or the minimum flight setting, and MAX is the fully forward position over any afterburner detents.If you have any custom detents or afterburner lifts installed, you might need to remove them temporarily for the calibration.
When running the calibration tool, it’s only necessary to push the sensor until it just reaches the edge of its travel, don't push it with force further than that.
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20 hours ago, jackd said:
Hi Damien. thnks
My throttle works fine, USB 2.0, admin tried, still NADA.
The latest drivers are 2025_TH_4.exe, in regards of my AVA base for the basic Viperstick.
2018_TMHW_1.exe, is that only TM warthog throttle related?
fw check in TARGET ( idont use it normally) v23:
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ADDED: I ran 2018_TMHW_1.exe, that partly fixed it, but i got a new error message:
But it seems it worked in the TARGET check, FW 100 LoL, your slew button works a lot better ! Had to reset the Joy IDs, but all OK now.
BTW thanks:
I think 2018_TMHW_1.exe is for the throttle and the original stick base, and 2025_TH_4.exe is just the new AVA base.
Ideally it should have no errors during the firmware update, so i'm not sure what's going on there, but if TARGET is showing V100 and your thorttle is working then you should be good to go!
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18 hours ago, jackd said:
Hi Damien
For maybe 3 years i have your slew mod installed, but never installed the calibrated firmware in my TM warthog Throttle, FW v23.
Delta_Sim_Fast_Slew_v100.tmf however wont install. Any ideas?
It looks like the firware tool is failing at the first step, putting the throttle into the "bulk" driver mode, which it then uses to update the firmware.
A few things to try:
- Make sure you have all the warthog drivers installed (the drivers are required for the update to work, dowload and install "Package drivers - Hotas Warthog - 2018_TMHW_1 + Firmware" https://support.thrustmaster.com/en/product/hotaswarthog-en/#drivers
- Idealy make sure your throttle is plugged into a USB 2.0 port, directly into your motherboard, not through a USB hub
- Try running the firmware update tool as administrator
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11 hours ago, h4ruuu said:
Hi… im interested with pinky switch and analog slew modification for TM hotas… are they ready stock? Please reply my question
Yes both are in stock and ready to ship if you place an order through the website
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14 hours ago, jonsky7 said:
@Deltaalphalima1
Hi Delta,
I was wondering if you knew what the other settings were in the Warthog Calibration tool A10_calibration.txt.
Basically, I have replaced the "Friction lever" pot with a hall effect sensor, but I only get travel from about -11,000 to 11,000.
I changed
MultShifts_T = 0x06; // 46
from 0x07
and that gets me to about 20,000 either side of centre, but 0x05 is too sensitive, and I'm reaching 32,767 with about a 1/3 of the axis to go.
Can you suggest anything please?To be honest I have never worked out exactly what the other settings do in the file. I did look at replacing the friction lever potentiometer a while ago and ran into the same issue as you, where the original pot has a much smaller output range than most alternatives.
You could try to change the variables:
MultInit_TP = 0x39; // 54 0011 1001 +57 DEC
MultInit_TN = 0xDE; // 55 1101 1110 (twos compliment, I think) -37 DECI’m sure they are related, but not sure what they do.
Mabey try changing first to:
MultInit_TP = 0x0A; // 54 00001010 +10 DEC
MultInit_TN = 0xF6; // 55 11110110 -10 DECAnd then to:
MultInit_TP = 0x64; // 54 01100100 +100 DEC
MultInit_TN = 0x9C; // 55 10011100 -100 DECAnd see if those change anything obvious?
Other than that, the easiest way is probably to reduce the output of the hall sensor. Either mechanically limit the travel, or electrically reduce the output somehow, to match what the throttle expects.
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On 9/16/2024 at 12:41 PM, darkman222 said:
@Deltaalphalima1 The F16EX force sensor works like a charm. Nice piece of hardware. One thing I am wondering is if there is any way to disable the axis while the sensor is depressed?
I was looking for that in the winwing software which does not offer that option. As there seems to be a firmware for the analog thumbstick I thought, maybe there is something similar for the F16EX force sensor.
Disabling the axis while depressing the TDC helps in the F16 because depressing slews the Aim9 seeker. But moving the axis the same time also enables the radar again and auto locking the bandit which is no good for stealthiness.
I haven’t been able to get simapppro to do it, but I have got it working using a plugin for joystick gremlin. I think that is probably the best way to achieve what you're looking for.
The plugin should work with any joystick and axis/button combination, in case anyone else needs it. It centres and stops an axis from moving when a button is held down. It does one axis at a time, so for the slew you will need to add two instances of the plugin to joystick gremlin, one for X and one for Y.
I have attached the plugin and some instructions on how to set up joystick gremlin and vjoy. It is a bit rushed and based on an old project I did, so let me know if you need any more help configuring it.
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21 hours ago, darkman222 said:
@Deltaalphalima1 The F16EX force sensor works like a charm. Nice piece of hardware. One thing I am wondering is if there is any way to disable the axis while the sensor is depressed?
I was looking for that in the winwing software which does not offer that option. As there seems to be a firmware for the analog thumbstick I thought, maybe there is something similar for the F16EX force sensor.
Disabling the axis while depressing the TDC helps in the F16 because depressing slews the Aim9 seeker. But moving the axis the same time also enables the radar again and auto locking the bandit which is no good for stealthiness.
That's great to hear! I don't know of any easy way to disable the axes on keypress. Surely it is possible, but it might need a custom script in simapppro, or extra joystick software.
I'm not to familiar with all that - but I will look into it and see if I can work something out.
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19 hours ago, darkman222 said:
@Deltaalphalima1For the Force sensor TDC slew upgrade for WW F16EX Throttle your website says that youre awaiting more stock for July 2024. Did I already miss it, and its sold out again, or are you still waiting for it to be produced?
Our WW F16EX force sensor is new this month (July) but we have already sold all of the first batch! We are currently making the next batch which should be ready in around two weeks time.
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2 hours ago, Frost_rus said:
Ok, I can confirm it was a damaged cable.
After a couple days it stopped working again. Disassembled the throttle, reconnected the cable, it started to work, still unstable.
Then a new 5pin cable arrived. The problem was that the cable I ordered had reversed pinout. So I had to cut all wires (except the middle one) and reconnect them as needed (1st to 5th, 2nd to 4th).
I'm not good at soldering, so initially it was also jumping. Now soldered again and it finally works as expected. I hope soldered wires won't break super soon
maybe I'll order one more cable, with correct pin out this time.
TLDR: if ministick response is unstable (does not work, or "jumping") it is most likely a cable. Even when it seems to be ok. Most likely, some wire was a bit damaged, and its resistance was higher or it was loosing continuity randomly
I'm glad to hear you were able to get it working! Did you get the genuine Molex cable? That should have the correct pinout.
Let me now if you would like me to send a replacement cable, it might take a week or two to get to you but it's the least I can do if the original was faulty.
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3 hours ago, Frost_rus said:
wow, today I did what you suggested, and it works! Thank you again!
I have no idea what I did wrong last time (as far as I remember, already tried these steps yesterday).
The only thing now is when I slowly move mini stick, the cursor starts to "shake" and "jump" to 0 and back to real values in some positions (both in v23 and v100, and after recalibration). I still suspect it may be one of 5 pin cable wires a bit loose. So I'll try another one. These ones should fit, right? https://www.digikey.com/en/products/detail/adafruit-industries-llc/4925/14291408 or 0151340500 Molex | Cable Assemblies | DigiKey
That's great to hear! Sometimes these things can just get stuck in a loop, turning everything off and on again and going back the start can get it working again
If it is working at all it's probably not the cable. It is a digital communication for the axes so if there are any bad connections it will almost always just stop working entirely on both axes.
Have you cleared the windows cal and run the tool from my website? Where are you testing to see the jumping you describe?
If you want to try a new cable the Molex PicoBlade is the correct genuine part, just make sure you get one long enough, that link is only 50mm.
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3 hours ago, Frost_rus said:
I just got my slew upgrade (order #9603), installed it, and have the same issue.
Click works fine, but X/Y axes do not work.
Tried both TM v23 and Deltasim v100 firmware. Updated firmware with both old and new mini sticks installed
Cleared windows calibration and used TM calibration tool (v1.07).
Tried to swap 5pin cable ends - same result.
Slew axes work when I connect original sensor and recalibrate.
Cable continuity looks good (checked with ohm meter), but maybe I should still try another cable to be 100% sure?
What else can I do to troubleshoot?
(I'm using Win 11 22H2 if it matters)
Thank you,
Andrey
That's a strange one, sounds like you have tried everything I would normally recommend.
Probably best to go back to the start, make sure you are on v23 firmware, connect the old sensor and recalibrate, and check both axes are moving.
Unplug the throttle, reconnect the new sensor, then plug the throttle back in and without recalibration or anything, check if you can see any movement on either axis.
If the old sensor is working in that configuration, but the new sensor still shows no movement, then it is probably something hardware related with the new sensor.
If you can send me a pm or email I can give some move specific advice
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23 hours ago, MAXsenna said:
Thank you for your answer. This is exactly what I was looking for!
Of course it needs a tiny deadzone, that makes sense. I've never done any Windows calibration with it, but if one was to "cleans it". Would "reset to default" be correct procedure? And then, the TM Calibration Tool will take me through the steps of all the other axis? It's such a long time sinse I installed your mod, and I don't think I did any calibration after the latest firmware upgrade. Maybe that's the issue.
I did find a little workaround for the Shkval. I did set a deadzone of 8, and whoa! That did sort it quite well. I love this upgrade. I will try your steps and report back!
While I'm at it. Does one calibrate the Warthog stick in the same way? And what numbers to use? I have 2x20cm extensions, and I have physically reduced the deflection of the stick. But then had to resort to the Windows tool.
Cheers!
Yes the 'reset to deault' will clear any windows calibration, I think apply will be greyed out if it is already cleared.
The calibration tool does all the axes on the throttle, it isn’t required to recalibrate after installing the new firmware, but it is probably a good to do it every now and again anyway.
There are two calibration programs in the folder you can download from my website, 'HW_Stick Calibration' and 'Throttle Warthog Calibration' , so you calibrate them separately.
If your happy with how your stick is working then no need to recalibrate it too, especially if you have custom limits that might get complicated.
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22 hours ago, MAXsenna said:
I am overall very happy with the upgrade, but it seems it has a build in deadzone or acceleration during the first 10 percent of travel which makes precision impossible in some modules. Especially the Shkval in the Ka-50 and Su-25T.
Testing in DIview, and it sort of jumps when I barely touch it in both axis. It's smooth as butter and highly enjoyable in the rest of the range!
Anyway to get rid of this without setting a deadzone in DCS, which I truly deeply hate doing?Cheers!
There is deadzone set in a few places, I will try to explain and some of them can be reduced.
Firstly there is some minimal deadzone built into the firmware in the slew upgrade, that is necessary as the ministick sensor doesn’t return exactly to centre every time, so you get drift without it.
There is also some deadzone inside the warthog throttle firmware that is set when running the Thrustmaster calibration tool. If you find the 'A10_calibration.txt' file inside the folder with the calibration tool, you can change settings:
Standard_DZ_SX = 0x05; // 20
Standard_DZ_SY = 0x05; // 21It has already been changes to 5 as standard, but you can do down to 01, so change to:
Standard_DZ_SX = 0x01; // 20
Standard_DZ_SY = 0x01; // 21Then rerun the calibration tool as normal.
Lastly make sure you have cleared any windows calibration, as that can add some.
If it is still too jumpy around the centre, adding curves in DCS is probably the best next step. That way you can reduced the sensitivity around the centre and hopefully make it smoother.
Let me know how you get on!
22 hours ago, IR.Clutch said:Where can I download the firmware? Forgot where to download it, couldn't find. Thanks
Our modified fast slew firmware V100 can be downloaded from my website, https://deltasimelectronics.com/pages/install-instructions
The standard firmware comes with the update tool, which is included in the standard warthog driver package, available from the Thrustmaster website download section.
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10 hours ago, Sn8ke said:
I I damaged my last throttle trying to add a lever extension mod. Ordered a new one. The new one has the updated TDC. Can I use the Delta fast slew firmware in the newest TM TDC?
Yes the updated firmware should work fine, please let me know if you see an improvement as I haven’t tested it myself yet.
My slew upgrade and the new TM slew should be interchangeable too, in case you wanted to swap them at any point.
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2 hours ago, Assamita said:
That's weird, because I was going to ask @Deltaalphalima1 about the DIY solution I'm working on, which has a joystick that works with a sketch that reads it's values as expected (I don't have a pushbutton), but doesn't when I load the sketch he uploaded in the instructables page. Don't know what could be wrong. This is my setup:
In the sketch, I've only changed the analog pins, because I'm using A0 and A1, and he has 3 and 4 (not sure, which analog ports are those in the Pro Mini).
There must be something wrong either in the sketch, or the connection to the warthog's board. The VCC and GND can't be as the board turns on as expected, and the SDA and SCL pins, which are 2 and 3 in the connector (following his numbering in the instructables) connected to A4 and A5 in the Pro Mini.
Now if you say that the deltasim has also stopped working, maybe there was some kind of update in the warthog's driver or something?
Unfortunately, I cut the wires from the original one, so I can put it back to test it, but I don't think it would also have stopped working, it would be a mass failure among all TM Warthog users.
I don’t think it is some universal problem, I think it is probably something wrong with your Arduino setup
The Instructables sketch does work, but I last tested it on an uno board. It’s been a while since I did anything with a pro mini, but I am always suspicious of the i2c port and the wire library when moving between boards. My first troubleshooting step would probably be to confirm the wire library is working with the A4 and A5 ports on the pro mini like it is supposed to, do you and an oscilloscope or other known good i2c sensor you can connect?
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10 hours ago, kingsnake11 said:
After months of working flawlessly, all of a sudden, the slew no longer works. Just stopped reading the x and y inputs while the pushdown tdc works fine. Anyone have any idea what may be the problem or has anyone experienced this and have a solution? thanks.
Sorry to hear that, the most common thing that causes a problem like this is if the 5-pin cable and connector to the new slew sensor have worked loose, and are no longer making a good connection.
I would recommend opening the throttle grip and disconnecting the cable from the new sensor, and then swapping the ends of the cable around, so the end that was connect to the throttle is now connected to the sensor and vice versa, that will make sure all the connections have been re-seated.
You might need to run the calibration tool again after you have done this, before the sensor will start working again.
If that doesn’t fix it if you can send me an email or message I can walk you through some more steps.
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On 5/15/2023 at 6:24 PM, Assamita said:
Hey there. I'm looking on doing this mod myself and bought a mini joystick (for the XboX 360) and a Pro Mini 3.3V, but then I thought of something. I don't like very much the touch and feel of the joystick, it's very tough and bulky, and also it has too big of an angle when fully extended (though I guess you don't need the full extension). But then I thought, is the slew pushbutton ever needed/used? It's not even mapped in the DCS. So maybe I could use one of these joysticks instead, couldn't I?
I've used one of these to build an Apache TEDAC and works very well.
Yes that should work, anything with two potentiometers should be fine electrically. The pushbutton is not required, and not used in the warthog most of the time - but it is a nice to have to assign to some other function.
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19 hours ago, mason.zh said:
Thank you! I still deciding either should I purchase the slew upgrades now or wait for a bit for the future force sensor version. Another question is, I've heard the TM actually upgrade their newly shipped Warthog throttle to have a new kind of slew (Since 2021 I believe), what's the difference between your slew upgrades with the newly stocked Warthog slew?
Yes for the last year or so new throttles have been shipping with an updated slew as standard.
It is quite similar to my upgrade, using a similar Xbox style Thumbstick. There some picture of the new slew a few posts back, https://forum.dcs.world/topic/170423-yet-another-warthog-slew-upgrade/page/61/#comment-5111623
If your throttle has the new slew already, there probably isn’t much point upgrading to mine. I have had a few customers say they still prefer my upgrade over the new Thrustmaster part, since it uses a slightly higher quality sensor and other parts, but it is definitely less of an upgrade compared to replacing the original nub.
Once our new force sensor is finally ready, that will be a considerable upgrade to everything else available, but will be more expensive.
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17 hours ago, mason.zh said:
Hi @Deltaalphalima1, I really want to upgrade my Warthog TDC slew, I got 2 questions:
1) How long will it be shipped to Canada if I place my order now?
2) I saw your previous post about a force-operated joystick: http://www.daco.co.uk/modular-controllers/force-joysticks/force-joystick-design, do you have any plan to add this type of slew in the future product?
Thanks again!
Our Warthog slew upgrades are in stock, so if you order now it will ship within 2 working days. Shipping time to Canada is around 1-3 weeks, depending how enthusiastic customs are feeling - so hopefully would be with you by mid-May.
I can’t say much, but the short answer is yes, I do very much have plans for a new force sensor. Hopefully there will be something to show in the next few months
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On 3/14/2023 at 1:44 AM, tobalt said:
@Deltaalphalima1 Is it ok to submit an order for shipping to the US?
Yes not a problem, we ship regularly to the US. Shipping is £9 for standard untracked, or £12 for tracked shipping. Delivered by USPS.
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On 1/18/2023 at 9:40 PM, YoYo said:
Any news about delivery issue (international)?
Issues at Royal Mail have caused lots of delays in the last two weeks, we haven’t been able to dispatch any international orders since January 12, and most items we sent even from January 5th seem to have been caught up in the delays.
Things do seem to be improving in the last few days, the latest update from Royal Mail, Saturday 21st is:
"We have now resumed international export despatches for all mail streams including parcels and letters across a growing number of international destinations. We are making good progress in despatching items that are already in our network across all of our services. Please note you may see less tracking information than usual as we continue to restore our services. At this time, we continue to ask customers not to submit new parcels for export, and we will update further on service resumption as soon as possible."
Hopefully they will allow us to send new parcel again soon.
Thank you very much to everyone who has waited patiently for their orders over the last few weeks!
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13 hours ago, Gogsie59 said:
I have had the slew upgrade installed for about 6 weeks, all went fine and worked perfectly. I installed the new firmware for the thumbstick last week which also worked fine or so I thought until I found that the hat switch on the right hand side of the throttle was going crazy as were all the switches on the right hand side of The throttle. When I checked with the Windows game controller it showed that when I used the hat switch all the other hat switch buttons were lighting up. The other switches, China hat etc would also light up other button positions. Reinstalled the firmware, reset the calibration in the window cal app and then recalibrate with the drumstick recap app. Still no joy. As a last resort I used the Windows calibration tool and bingo all buttons and hat switches are working again. I know it says never to use the Windows calibration tool so I'm wondering if I've mucked something up and if I need to do anything to get it working with the thrustmaster calibration.
There is no massive issue with using the windows calibration, it's just that it can override the native Thrustmaster cal, which can cause other issues and doesn’t give best performance.
The windows cal is also specify to one computer, where the Thrustmaster cal is stored on the throttle so is portable between computers.
I believe the windows calibration reset can be bugged in some circumstances, which might have happened after you update the firmware. By running the windows cal you may have essentially just manually reset it. If it’s working how you like it now, I wouldn’t worry about it.
If you have another computer you can connect the throttle to and test that might be good to try. If you connect it to anther pc and it works fine, you’re definitely good to go.-
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Thrustmaster have finally updated the stock slew sensor in the warthog throttle. The terrible nipple is gone, and they have replaced it with a new one very similar to our upgrade.
It seems to be a ‘phantom version’ so if you’re buying a new throttle, there is no way to know for sure if you’re getting the new version. If you get old stock it will still have the old sensor in - but Thrustmaster seem to have been producing the new version since at least October 2022.
The new sensor is very similar to our upgrade (I wonder where they got the design inspiration
) it uses a similar style thumbstick, specifically a CK THB Thumbstick:
https://www.ckswitches.com/products/switches/product-details/Navigation/THB/
It is mounted in an injection moulded plastic housing, instead of using a front plate and screws to hold it is position like our upgrade, they are using one of the screws that hold the throttle together to wedge it in place from behind.
Nothing else significant has changed in the new throttle version, just the slew sensor, so our upgrade is actually still fully compatible. It just might not be worth the upgrade anymore for most people.
I haven’t actually been able to get a new throttle myself yet, but thanks to a very generous customer who has provided the below photos for anyone interested:
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6 minutes ago, BuzzU said:
You can read about it here. Scroll down for a picture. I'm not sure when it started but mine is Serial # 167720.
I have been hearing the rumors TM have update the stock slew, but that Amazon link is the first time I have seen anything 'official' , even if it's just a render.
Can you post some picture of your new version throttle? I would be very interested to see.
Yet another warthog slew upgrade
in Thrustmaster
Posted
If it stopped working when you were moving things around, it could well be a problem with the wire/connector that might have shifted.
The best way is to disconnect both ends of the sensor cable and swap them around, so the end that was connected to the slew sensor is now connected to the throttle and vice versa, that will make sure all the connections have been re-seated in case there is any dirt or corrosion causing a problem - and then try running the calibration again after reseating the cable.
If the calibration was run when the sensor wasn't working, it can get stuck with a 'zero' calibration, which can to be fixed by running the tool again when it is working properly. If it's still not working do you have the original sensor you could test with?