backstab

15 dials on E1 E2 E3 Here are my throttle files. They will turn your E1 E2 E3 into 5 different sets of dials. The sets are based upon the 5 way Mode selector. Now on mode 1 as an example I put the radios. I push the E1 and com 1 on the F18 is selected then I use the E1 dial to change channels.E2 is com 2, E3 is goggles on/off and brightness. Mode 2 put to external lights, Mode 3 I do external lights, mode 3 I do other stuff etc. I map all planes radios and lighting pretty much the same so I do not get easily confused. I am in VR so I cant look. I know where everything is. You can do whatever you want with your 15 new dials Desktop.rar

I solved my own problem for the time being. I have seen no real evidence that they are on the ball but they have stopped talking to me. I agreed to take a few of the small parts in question but have not received them. I passed my address to them and POOF...forgotten about. This is why I choose to vent my issued on here instead of play games with corporations. I let the people know whats going on and then they worry if what is being said is of concern to their bottom line. Im not holding my breath.

You guys need to stop building cockpits. Get VR. My cockpit is perfect. In about 2-4 years a reliable hand/finger system will come out and we will be able to push all the buttons and turn all the dials.

Oh yeah that's exactly it. Good links too. Replacement parts. Likely not too pricey either

(bottom graphic) Move your spring inside the red throttle arm and have it push the ball upwards towards the plate and I think that's more like it

Hazzer , yes its the use of the detent that causes wear

This bearing, as far as I can tell, has the same structure as a ball point pen. A single ball in a socket but with a spring to keep it pushed outward and room for that ball to be pushed all the way back into its socket. This isnt a conventional bearing like the picture you posted. I thought the idea was ok actually but it was dry. So if you zoom up on my pic at the beginning of this post, all the way up and ask yourself what would make these grooves cut that harshly into steel. The ball wasnt rolling, it was sliding for some part of its time in that position.

A wonderful reply. Just enough rudeness to satisfy me. Thanks for reading the posts correctly.

https://forums.eagle.ru/showthread.php?t=229144

Ive owned 3 sets of X65F and I was convinced they were top notch. In reality my flying suffered greatly because of the sensor type it uses. It was nifty all right and I have flown falcon from the day it released until 5 years ago. The sticks I wore out and a throttle as well. I bought the Virpil stick and throttle. The t50 stick is great for me. The important things are that it centres everytime. Ill bet my life that before you fly on the 65F you need to calibrate it a few times and after an hour as well. Not once in 300 hours has it been off in calibration. I run no dead zone. You can control the tension so when I fly the Huey there is just enough tension to centre the stick when I let it go. Its silky smooth fingertip flying for helicopter. The stick is missing a 4th 4 way and this is a downer. They should have known better. At extreme deflections you can hear and feel the springs as they strain. Just annoying but doesn't affect control The Virpil throttle is ok. I like that, with modifiers, I have so many buttons and dials that I can do most things without a keyboard I can start a hornet with no keyboard. I had an issue with parts wearing quickly on the throttle stroke so it was really scratchy. I solved my problem and they basically left it at that. I'm not impressed with their response. If you are a VR person then this is important. Nosehole be damned. I give the stick 8 and the throttle 7

Yes you are right. I should have thought that through. So then I suppose what you would lose is a bit of the solid feeling of the detent as the ball moves from groove to groove within one detent slot. Possibly not a big deal. So as long as it remains smooth for everyone then its good.

These are 2 of the 4 spring loaded ball bearings that run the distance of that plate. (for those of you wondering)

Was there lubrication there? Doesn't look like it but cant see for sure. Was yours giving you issues like mine? See your grooves are not even. This means that there either was or will be a slightly different feel to the throttle travel during its full stroke. And there might be differences between the throttles as well.

I was told by Virpil that the grooves worn into the plate in question are predicted and planned. These grooves should be smooth at all times and they should not affect the detent. If they are not smooth or affect the detent then it is a warranty issue. In my case the detent was fine but the grooves were not smooth. There was friction, sound, resistance and it was breaking down inside as I discovered. The Virpil support confirmed I flipped the plate to expose a clean fresh side (my idea to solve the problem). They offered to ship another plate and I accepted. I suspect that once the grooves become deeper than the exposed diameter of the bearing that rolls in it, the sides of the unit that holds that bearing will rub. In the same way as getting stuck in your car when the tire is buried in the mud and the body of the car now prevents movement. I am putting my faith in the lubrication I added. If I had another plate Ill feel good. Virpil please include another plate for everyone. This gives them 4 fresh starts. Please make sure there is plenty of lube on the plate and the ball bearing. Waiting for my plate now.

Precisely!

Today is day 10 since ticket submission.

What is an acceptable response time?

U2. Then on the DDCS type servers people can choose to fly high altitude missions across the map in patterns so that their "photographic intel" can populate the F10 map with enemy positions. This would add a great dynamic. To see enemy positions someone needs to protect the High altitude flight so their side can continue to make fast precision strikes etc. The enemy would desperately ant that plane shot down ASAP. It would be akin in importance to the type of work the heli slingers do. Lots of new players have no idea that on DDCS servers if you have no one slinging you have no hope of holding a FARP etc. If no one is Flying Intel missions then no one can see anything on the F10 map.

Still no response from support regarding this issue.

The throttle quality is in question as far as I am concerned. I have a ticket in regarding the wear of pars. As for the throttle detents I can tell you that it is easy to set the detends THE FIRST TIME. After you screw the set screws into soft aluminum to lock them in place it marks the metal and then after that if you needed to adjust the position of the detends a few millimeters then you will have difficulty setting it exactly where you want. Took me 30 minutes of trying and trying to get the set screw to sit correctly on previously marred metal. I hope I don't need to move them again. The other thing I am now noticing is that the detent is fairly soft and IMO too easy pushed through.

I suspect that the beginning of this type of degradation might be that the ball isn't rolling. If it isn't rolling then its cutting into and grooving the plate. If the ball rolls fine then things will likely continue along nicely.

Thats exactly whats happening. Thats where it starts. Around the detent

The plate is located between the throttles. It is just under the top plate with all the switches on it. To access it you need to remove the plastic grips that are screwed on top of each of the power arms. Once those are off then undo the screws on the top plate and the plastic incremented dust cover that sits on top of the top plate. This dust cover will come up and off. Then remove the two plastic arced dust covers. All this stuff needs to come up and off so you can lift the large metal top plate off. As soon as you do this you will see it. You have the option to remove both halves of the metal top plate with all the switches on it but if I recall you just need to remove the plate over the throttle levers. I cant think if you need to remove any screws from the bottom of the throttle.. Just do it. Take photos and mark the wires with a marker. Its not calculating your shadow on the moon. Its basically a must do IMO so get on it. Total time is about 30 minutes to take apart and re assemble. I wish I took better pics.

Im sure this is going to turn into a gigantic problem for Virpil. I hope they have an engineer looking into a solution. Its not rocket science but some other materials or some different mechanism is needed. It looks like a good idea but whomever authorized this didnt think it through. How many times will we roll that ball past those detents. Click click click 20,000 times in its life and someone didnt understand the wear and tear factor. Im still waiting on my ticket.

Oh I took the grips off, then the top plate and that exposes the steel plate on top, the one I took the picture of. What you are showing is the bottom and that's not the area in question. You need to remove the plastic buttoned grips and then the components will lift off exposing the area. The plate is held on with 2 screws and lock washers. Its symmetrical so it doesn't matter which way you out it on. Its not hard to take grips off because they just have one wire that needs to be unplugged and therefore there is one slot only on re assembly. No confusion. Good design edit. That part in your picture I never disassembled.