Direwolf5

Honeywell acquired Clarostat, search there.

#55272 Louisiana

Here is the correct link to the virtual cockpit, the other one did not work. http://www.nmusafvirtualtour.com/media/072/A-10A%20Cockpit.html http://www.nmusafvirtualtour.com/media/072/A-10A%20Cockpit.html Direwolf5

Some of the guys on the ViperPits forums were using converted CPAP machines to send air to their oxygen masks. Unfortunately e-Bay now prohibits the re-sale of them due to the manufactures suing them. :mad: The cheapest I could find was $288.15 at http://www.cpap.com/cpap-machines-all.php?priceRange=400#1:::400:price:20: , of course you still have to get a helmet and mask.

The guys at ViperPits.org made a ARC-164 with led displays, I do not remember if the had any drawings available but you can check with them. Direwolf5

Deadman when I lost my 1TB hard drive last Aug I lost all of my research cockpit pictures. However, the differences were in the border that surrounds the alphabet and number portions of the faceplate. On the first it did not extend to the Y and Z keys like in the first version of DCS A-10C, the second had it extended to enclose Y and Z keys, the third added a separate border around the PG-UP PG-DN and + - rockers. the fourth added one around the DIM-BRT rocker and finally the last was in an article on the AF times page about an airman that won an award for saving the Air Force money by figuring out how to rebuild the CDU keyboard instead of tossing it, the one they showed was thinner and used copper dome switches like you might find in a cell phone. He found a supplier for the copper pieces and they would just cut out the bad one with a razor knife and attach a new one using clear tape. Direwolf5 P.S where do you find the drawings? all I could find were old Mil-Specs, now that they switched to SAE Standards you have to buy a membership to look at them.

:thumbup: Thick8, it looks fine, remember there are minor variations in panel layouts due to manufacturer preferences. MIL-Spec only tells you the maximum and minimum sizes for the panels along with button and marking sizes the rest is up to the manufacturer I have seen cockpit photos from real A-10Cs with at least five different CDU layouts. So, as long as your Base Plate is 5.75" wide and your Face Plate is 1/16"smaller on each side, and the distance between the centers of the top and bottom DZUS locations are 1.125" smaller than the panel height and the others are on a .375 spacing, then your panel is MIL-Spec compliant. Direwolf5 P.S Here is a link to my entire MIL-Spec collection in my dropbox these should help you out. https://www.dropbox.com/s/u4bvg63f3rtuxr7/Mil%20Specs.rar

Well I spent the last few days in SolidWorks and here is the result. CDU Light Plate Keys Display and Cover I will upload Detailed Drawings in a few days. Direwolf5

Thick8 that is very close :thumbup: here is a picture of a real CDU unfortunately it is at an angle and is missing the screen cover but you can see the spacing of the buttons and the panel thickness. In the layout you found you can see the cover. I measured the CDU and I get 20 DZUS high = 7.5 inches. Now if can only get someone to manufacture a 10 x 24 LCD of the correct size we would be set. Direwolf5

Here you go, I searched using AN/ARC 86 Size and found this page: http://www.sea-avionics.com/lc/cart.php?target=productDetails&model=RT-1300/ARC-186+V&substring&mode=research From Measuring the fold-out image in my copy of TO 1A-10C-1 and scaling the width to height I get 2.25 for the panel height. Deadman can confirm the measurement as he has the real panels. So it would be the 3rd entry in the list. Also you can estimate panel heights by looking at how many DZUS fasteners high they are then multiplying by 0.375, for example the radio is 6 DZUS high x 0.375 = 2.25 inches. Direwolf5

Custard I have been collecting information for years, and working in SolidWorks to design my panels. There is a lot of good information available if you take the time to search for it. I design the panel and the populate it with generic hardware, then when I have bought a part I update it with a model of the new part. Here are some renders of the CMSP I am working on, I plan to run it using Arduinos. I am waiting on the display to arrive, then I will start cutting, and building. Direwolf5

Rats I was only half right :doh: Direwolf5

Ah Ha! :D I was right, the 1TL62-7 is the fire discharge switch and the seat adjustment switch. I knew I had seen them in a picture before. :book: Direwolf5

Deadman I think you are correct, from looking at the only cockpit picture that survived my hard drive crash. The 1TL62-7 looks like the seat adjust switch, and from looking at the illustrations in my copy of the latest manual T.O. 1A-10C-1,Dated 10 November 2008, Change 10, 2 April 2012, I think the second would be for the Pitot Heat switch on the environmental panel. However I have seen pictures where the Pitot switch has a square head on it. Direwolf5

I was hoping one of them would check out your build thread and offer to help. :smilewink:

Deadman, from my experience in the A.F. when Uncle Sam buys a piece of equipment the manufacturer is required to turn over all information on the piece of equipment. Including design drawings, wiring diagrams and maintenance and manufacturing information. So that the government can find another company to build the item as a backup. At least one of the forum members is a current A-10 maintainer, he should be able to go over to the simulator room and talk shop with the operators/maintainers and get a peek at the maintenance manuals. While the manuals for the actual A-10 are classified, the simulator's would most likley not be classified and he could get you a wiring diagram. I do not believe that the information on the motor system of the simulator would be under EEFI restriction or No-Forn restrictions, As you are a US Citizen there would be no conflict with No-Forn if it was in effect. Direwolf5 {EEFI = Essential Elements of Friendly Information} {No-Forn = No Foreign Citizens}

Why not glue a set of magnets on your headset? I did that with my track clip pro years ago. Direwolf5

As for meter settings look for continuity between pins, for a unipolar motor with six pins you will get continuity for 3 pins to each other, if there is no continuity then they are for separate phases. then in a unipolar you will check the resistance between pins, Resistance from the coil end to the common will be one half the resistance from end to end. If it is a 5 pin setup check the resistances first, the common pin will give a half resistance reading to the other 4, and the separate phases will read as an open circuit with infinite resistance. Direwolf5

Deadman, do you think that those motors could just be oversize steppers? if so the procedure to determine the windings is fairly straight forward. If they are steppers they are either unipolar with 5 or 6 connections or bipolar with 4. Unipolar Bipolar There is one final configuration a weird 8 wire stepper. The only other type of motor it could be is a 3-phase motor, as a former Air Force Missile maintainer I can tell you the the US Air Force likes to use 3-phase motors wherever they can. Direwolf5

EOS not working Whartsell, when I do the step to add the EOS interface, I have to click the scan button several times to get Helios to detect my arduino UNO. afterwards everything works fine in the editor. I even created a Electrical Panel in Helios and when I throw a physical switch it changes the panel switch in the editor. However when I start Helios and run the profile the arduino's receive light flashes three times, the transmit led never blinks, then all of the leds turn off, throwing the physical switches do not change the switch positions in Helios or in A-10C when it is running. I also created another profile with EOS added and the regular part of Helios works, but the EOS half still does not. UPDATE: I searched the web and I found the following article on the arduino's built-in serial auto-reset function, http://playground.arduino.cc//Main/DisablingAutoResetOnSerialConnection Apparently when you connect serially to an Arduino it first resets the connection and then reconnects Helios times out while waiting for it to reconnect. There are two ways to fix the reset problem, 1.) for most Arduinos place a 120 ohm resistor (Difficult to find) between reset and ground, or 2.) For UNO's place a 10uf capacitor between reset and ground, the second method worked for me. Whartsell, you said that you were going to use a Leonardo so you might wat to read the section on it.

Page Select Dial 45° indexing angle, 3 or 8 position rotary switch MIL-S-3786 [JANCO Series A, AA, or AC 45° Miniature switch] Or a {COLE 1800, 3900, or 3600 Series Switch, (Example F3645-103)} Steer Point Dial 45° indexing angle, 4 or 8 position rotary switch MIL-S-3786 [JANCO Series A, AA, or AC 45° Miniature switch] Or a {COLE 1800, 3900, or 3600 Series Switch,(Example F3645-104)} Steer Toggle Switch is an (on)-off-(on) w/round white plastic lever Honeywell Micro Switch 1TL48-7. Of course these are $35.00 a pop:surprise:, so get a standard SPDT (On)Off(On) and dip the lever in Plasti Dip® White :D and Presto one Imitation genuine Honeywell Switch :sly:

Yes very interested, I cross-referenced several of the switches to various suppliers catalogs. For example the CMSP Panel JTSN Switch MS21026-C231 Cross-references to a Eaton SPST 8855K7 with a "C" type locking Bushing (ON - None - |ON) Locked in the lower Keyway position, found on page A57 in their switch catalog. It is a miniature switch with a full-sized toggle. While the switch from Eaton may be costly, a pit-builder could use a standard miniature toggle switch and fabricate a replica locking bushing and toggle arm to fit it. Your work will greatly aid many pit-builders in their endeavors, while they may not say it, they are grateful for the hard work you are doing, I know that I am. So keep up the great work :thumbup:. Direwolf5

Probably so that if the panel won't light up the pilot knows where to smack the panel to try to get it to light up.. ;) I was a Minuteman Missile tech :geek: in the Air Force back in the 80's, and we were taught several escalating "Maintenance Procedures" to get a stubborn system to work: Maintenance Procedure 1; Smack center of panel with rubber mallet several times. If function does not return proceed to next procedure. Maintenance Procedure 2; Unlock equipment drawer handles and slide unit halfway out, then slam it back in twice. If function does not return proceed to next procedure. Maintenance Procedure 3; Remove drawer, lift above your head and then drop on floor. re-insert drawer and see if function has returned. If function does not return proceed to next procedure. Maintenance Procedure 4; Call base on radio and have a replacement drawer choppered out. I swear to god that this is true, the first time my team Sargent took a $600,000.00 computer memory drawer out of the rack and threw in on the floor I liked to have had a heart attack, :surprise: :shocking: because they told us if we destroyed a piece of equipment we had to buy it. We later found out that they could only take 2 months pay from you, when one of the guys destroyed a security system drawer that was worth a couple of million, it had 216 pounds of gold connectors and wires in it.

Per MIL-C-81774A and MIL-DTL-7788G. They are to indicate where the electrical connector is on the back of the panel. Direwolf5

This looks like it may be it http://www.ebay.com/itm/130579750527?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1423.l2648