

GTFreeFlyer
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Everything posted by GTFreeFlyer
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Correct, this one gets me every now and then as well. I’m getting better about it. Follow the dive checklist from the POH prior to entering the dive, and it has you consciously close them, which helps to remember to reopen them after the dive is complete.
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I have a bass shaker connected to an amp, which is connected a USB sound card. Picked it all up on Amazon a few years ago for a little less than $150 IIRC.
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Interesting. I haven’t had this one yet. I’ve had it where the right gear won’t go up, but it’s usually after a little bouncy takeoff and an error on my behalf. For my own curiosity, can you post the track file? We have no idea if you had a bad takeoff, got shot up by bandits, etc. Really need to provide more info when throwing up a post like this, otherwise I don’t think anyone would be able to help.
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Thanks! Glad to help. The mass of the prop will only really eat up some power if you are constantly accelerating/decelerating it. As for your question: I'll refrain from trying to answer this one because I only have limited IRL combat experience (banging head on keyboard, punching fist thru monitor, smashing printers in an open field , etc), and prefer not to give any incorrect info. In DCS, I try not to change throttle much at all, even in combat. Try to manage your energy. Come in for a high speed dive, take your shots, zoom on by and regain the energy up high for the next pass, ideally without touching my throttle or RPM. If things get complicated with the bandit and I'm in a bind, I'll push it up to 2700 RPM only when slow on speed and I need to accelerate quickly, then I'll pull RPM down a little again to keep some speed and not run in first gear too much. Is it the correct way? I dunno. I'm always learning. It works for me, but then again, I also get shot up a lot I'm much more comfortable with the engineering stuff over combat
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Yup, I use SimShaker. Just sharing here that if you go this route, you will need to get their current beta version for the Corsair feedback. They just added the Corsair recently, but haven't moved it to their stable release yet. I've flown with it for a few days now, no issues, just in case beta stuff scares you, which would be ironic flying the Corsair
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It helps to understand some of the science here. Here’s what I can offer to help appreciate the bird a little more. If you already know this stuff, then please ignore me, but I’ll post it for those in the community who may not know it: Max power does not equal max speed. Max power refers to engine power, not the power that is converted and comes out of the prop to propel you forward. Max engine power just eat up more fuel. If you’re running at 2700 and expecting high speed, try running a car or bicycle in 1st gear. It’s similar. The propellers need to take more bite out of the air when flying quickly. So why then would the engine be putting out so much power, without a lot of speed? Well, look up propeller advance ratios. It’s analogous to the angle of attack of a wing’s airfoil. When a propeller is running flat with high airspeed, you are way off the maximum efficiency point for the propeller’s airfoil. The propeller would be doing a terrible job at converting mechanical power (equal to torque times RPM) into propulsive power (which is equal to thrust times velocity). This is the sole purpose of a propeller: Convert the power. If your propeller is only 20% efficient here (a reasonable number for low advance ratios caused by high RPM and not a lot of forward movement), then for every 100 HP the propeller can put out, the engine must supply 500 HP. For max speed, you want to find the point where the propeller airfoils are operating at their most efficient local angle of attack. With variable pitch props, prop efficiency can be brought up in the neighborhood of around 80% to 85%. You’ll never get 100% because the blade will always slip a little in the air when chopping at it. So for that same 500 HP from the engine, you now have so much more speed from the power conversion because the propeller is only wasting 20% the supplied power now, simply by changing the blade pitch, even when at a LOWER RPM, just like your car or bicycle. How do we find this optimum point where we can maximize our prop efficiency? As pilots, we use the charts the engineers put together for us since we don’t have direct control over blade pitch, or what would be even better, the advance ratio. As an aerospace engineer myself, I’ve spent lots of time in wind tunnels over my career with propellers collecting this data, and publishing performance charts. I love this stuff and can talk about it all day. It’s tough to grasp at first, but if you ever want to know more, just shoot me a message. You mentioned above that you could barely get above 200 knots. I just did a flight earlier today at 5,000 feet, cruising conservatively at 2200 RPM and around 33 MP and was moving around 210-220 kts indicated, which is around 235 knots true. Try it out. I could have pushed it even faster if I played around with the MP and RPM, but I was just cruising to save fuel when flying back to the boat. Propeller efficiency is a huge deal, and you’re not going to get good efficiency at 2700 RPM unless you are very slow, because the blades are flattened out. Jets move faster or slower based on your throttle position. Warbirds are completely different. Just remember that RPM control has nothing to do with setting the RPM on your engine. The RPM lever controls a governor that is linked to blade pitch. So, when you pull the RPM lever back, you may actually be INCREASING thrust because now your blades will start biting into the air. Yeah, I’ll agree that some things with this module need tweaking near the edge of the envelopes of altitudes, temperatures, ground handling etc, but for the most part, this plane feels pretty good, and operates very closely to the charts when flown correctly. Not too bad for its early access, incompleted, state. I uploaded a quick test mission with a script that shows you engine diagnostics. Spend 5 minutes with it. It’s an air start, so you can quickly start playing with different throttle and RPM settings and see their effect in real time. It’s a great learning tool. Hope you found this helpful, -GT-
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I had previously shared a link to my kneeboards in various other threads. If you have been using my version, please update them to the ones I posted just now. Rudel posted the engine performance charts that we should be using, and I've updated them into my checklists here. Enjoy https://www.digitalcombatsimulator.com/en/files/3345803/
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Great to know! Thanks for sharing. A couple of the guys in vCTF-58 were testing this out not long ago and came to the same conclusion.
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Spoiler alert! Answers are in the manual. https://www.vmfa251.org/pdffiles/Corsair Manual.pdf
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Awesome stuff Just don’t fall into the habit of setting cowl/oil flap positions and memorizing them. They need constant attention while eyeballing your instruments during a scan. Adjust them as necessary to keep the temps good. You can be conservative and leave them open more than needed if you aren’t worried about drag and fuel consumption, otherwise you want to close them a tiny bit at a time, wait a minute, see what the temps are doing, and minimize drag as much as desired. Also, the checklists call for 2400 RPM for landings … if the realism matters to you. What’s most important though is finding what works best for you and sticking with it I’m glad you got your bird running nicely. Cheers! …edit: Also, don’t memorize MP for landing. Adjust throttle for desired descent rate. Use elevator trim to adjust desired landing speed (90kts-ish). You should be hands-off on the elevator stick for final approach. The elevator trim will keep the plane locked in at your airspeed. If you are coming up short or sinking too fast, the correct remedy is throttle, not elevator.
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Good info, Bull! However, just wanted to note that you can't even get close to the published numbers with rich mixture because the fuel burn will be way off, if that's a concern to you. Have a look at this and you can see the effect of rich vs. auto-lean:
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Great idea! However, I don't know how to look up those values with lua at the moment. If you can provide that info I can try to integrate it. Also, I'm a big fan and advocate for pilots conducting instrument scans properly, especially in this warbird. I think moving some of the data from the instrument panel to the upper corner will teach bad habits, and might be a "cheat" for the mission you want to make which includes scoring. You might end up climbing quickly, but what good is the pilot if they never had to look at the instruments and handle the aircraft properly at the same time? Just my 2 cents. Cheers.
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Here you go guys. A quick SP air start with a script I made to view real time fuel burn, fuel efficiency, airspeed and more. Spoiler alert: It is actually pretty close to the published charts. Also FYI, the image below is just a cover image. Diagnostics in the mission are not as pretty. It's just the standard text overlay you are used to seeing. https://www.digitalcombatsimulator.com/en/files/3346516/
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Duplicate thread. Lots of discussion already. Have a quick look at the long discussions in the other threads. In short, no. Things have changed since the training missions were made. You need cowl and oil flaps open otherwise you’ll overheat.
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Need a track file. You likely did damage to the engine beforehand and the engine driven fuel pump failed, if your temps were in fact okay. Did you hear engine knocking sound when you pushed the throttle up? Come back with a track file next time and I’ll gladly take a look for you. FYI, your intercooler flaps do nothing except add drag during takeoff. You need them to cool the carb air only when the blower is running. Without the blower, you aren’t generating heat in this area. You can leave them closed.
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If you don’t feel like deep-diving into the actual manuals, try this for quick reference: 1. Know the engine limitations: You can find them in my kneeboards here. Set your MP and RPM accordingly. https://www.digitalcombatsimulator.com/en/files/3345803/ 2. Keep cylinder head temperatures below red line: Cooling for this is controlled with the cowl flaps. 3. Keep the oil temperature below the red line. Cooling for this is controlled by the oil cooler flaps. 4. Wait until your thick-sludgy oil reaches 40C and thins out before going above 1000 RPM after startup. 5. If you end up turning the blower on (above 5-6 thousand feet!) then cooling for that is with the intercooler flaps. 6. Keep a good scan of your instruments, always watching the temperatures.
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Had a chance to watch this. It's the same issue everyone is having. Oil coolers not open enough, and you cooked the engine. Here's the NTSB preliminary report Oil temp was in the high blue zone, practically touching red line for the majority of the first lap. It was so close to the red line that I was unable to tell whether is was red lined or not. Maybe half the needle width was in the red, and the other half in the blue. You possibly accumulated damage here. Your oil coolers were open about 25%, and the inter coolers open a little more than that for the entire flight. You never touched them again for the entirety of the track file, after initially setting them. This likely indicates that oil temperature was not part of your instrument scan. Solution: Open the oil coolers more, about 50% or so and it will keep the needle in the mid blue range. If you see your needle the in the high blue and your oil coolers can be opened more, open them. You can even get the needle in the lower blue range. Intercooler flaps don't need to be open when not using blower. You can leave them fully closed here without consequence and eliminate the associated drag. You were not using blower, which is correct. No harm leaving the intercooler flaps open, but your engine just works a tiny bit harder to overcome the unnecessary drag. First two takeoffs: You pushed MP too high and heard the engine knocking sound, thereby accumulating damage. You reacted quickly though, and pulled MP back, which bought you some time, but the damage had already been done. Your RPM and MP changes were quick and abrupt at times, causing the needles to briefly overshoot their limits. Be smooth. Count 2-3 full seconds between the endpoints of any control when you are adjusting it. One the 2nd landing, you oil temp was a tad lower, but still in the high blue zone near the red, noticeably not touching the red line. Again, oil flaps need to be open more. 3rd takeoff: Oil temp was too close to red for a comfortable takeoff attempt. Don't forget to look at the gauge before takeoff and wait until it cools down a little. Much better on the takeoff throttle here. No knocking noise heard, but shortly after takeoff, the oil warmed up just slightly and touched the red line, and that was the end of your engine. In the current model, there's no buffer. It acts as an instantaneous trigger. Great patterns and landings though! If you do the exact same flight with only two corrections, everything will be fine: 1. Oil flaps open 50% or more. 2. Do not exceed 2700 RPM, 54 MP on takeoffs. When on the deck, push your RPM to maximum before opening the throttle. There were times you opened throttle to 50+ MP, but RPM lever was still pulled back from the last landing, and then you pushed RPM up. The order is backwards and puts additional stress on the engine because you are trying to take bigger bites out of the air with high MP. Flatten that blade pitch, then throttle up. Other recommendation: Your entire 3 flights were done on the main fuel tank. Make sure fuel selector is on reserve tank for takeoffs and landings. This will bite you in the future. When on main tank, as soon as your fuel gauge hits 50 gallons, engine will quit and you'll have to quickly switch to reserve. You don't want to have to do this when low and slow, ready to touch down. Cheers!
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You can check your saved games/tracks folder to see if it auto saved. Otherwise, you’ll have to re-fly it. Also, there are already a few threads with this same topic. You just created another one. One of them has been open for a while and has lots of discussion. I’m betting your issue is something already experienced, discussed, and resolved. Have a look in the other threads as well. You didn’t mention opening your oil flaps, so you may have cooked the engine. That’s all I can offer at the moment based on the info you gave above.
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Wrong thread. Plenty of other threads for that.
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The fuel gauge includes the reserve. If you saw it at zero after your engine quit, then you were empty on the reserve as well. When on the main tank during a flight, you’ll see the fuel needle drop to 50 gallons and then the engine will quit. Quickly switch over to reserve and it will fire back up and you can use the remaining 50 gallons in the standpipe.
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F4U Maritime Patrol (YE-ZB Navigation Trainer) (SP & MP)
GTFreeFlyer replied to GTFreeFlyer's topic in F4U-1D
Whoa! This became a sticky. Very humbled. Thanks to whoever was responsible I updated the mission file. Minor update. Forgot to change the briefing image in the last update. It's fixed now. Enjoy. -
Again, engine settings for takeoff will be found in the POH. Check out the link. Scroll down to the takeoff section if you don't want to read the whole thing. You can also install my kneeboards and follow them while in cockpit. This will help get you going as well. https://www.digitalcombatsimulator.com/en/files/3345803/
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Couple things here: First, you are exploiting a bug that let's you go above 2700 RPM, which will be fixed soon. Don't go past 2700. Stick within the engine limits. You'll find these on placards in the virtual cockpit, as well as in the manual and actual POH. This bird requires you know the operating limits, so learn them and drill them into your head. As for everything else, it just seems that maybe you're still learning about warbirds and engine management, which is great! We've all been there and you've chosen the correct path I'll give you my observations to help out: After takeoff, set cowl, oil, and intercooler flaps as desired. You don't have to close them just because you think you need to. It all depends what is happening with your temperatures. I didn't see your engine cut in this video, but I'm willing to bet it is because you closed your oil flaps, then oil temps went into red line and you cooked the engine. Also, you don't need to do anything with the intercooler flaps unless your blower is on, which it's not for takoeff (I hope!). Leave those closed so you don't have more drag than needed. There's nothing in the checklist about setting your trims to neutral after takeoff. Leave them alone, and slowly trim as needed for hands off flight at your desired flight condition. I noticed as soon as you took out the right rudder trim, your slip indicator was showing you needed more right rudder, so you would have been better off leaving the rudder trim in, and slowly taking it out only as needed depending on what the ball was showing. As for the shaking, you may have broken something in the engine. You were at high manifold pressure and pulled your RPM back VERY quickly. This would have overstressed the engine big time. Manifold needs to be pulled back before pulling the RPM back. Very quick movements with RPM and throttle put additional stresses on the engine due to high accelerations and decelerations. Treat it gently, and she'll treat you nicely as well. Whenever you move from one setting to another, give it a full 3 second count from one endpoint to the next. This bird takes some studying, and learning the basic principles. All of the above can be found in the POH. Read the actual POH linked below, and it all applies to the DCS module as well. I've read thru this thing almost 5-6 times now. It's invaluable. Also read thru the manual included with the module, just so you know some additional DCS-specific things. https://www.vmfa251.org/pdffiles/Corsair Manual.pdf Just keep at it. You're doing great
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Random loss of bindings and trim settings
GTFreeFlyer replied to carbolicus's topic in Bugs and Problems
Screenshot from actual footage of carrier qualifications and training back the day. Also, all checklists say 6 deg right trim for takeoff. Just FYI.