y2kiah

Yeah MDF or plywood, your choice. Holes are pre-drilled for joints to be done with wood screws, or cross-dowels, or angle brackets, take your pick. I hate using MDF personally since it turns to powder and gets everywhere. Gadroc pointed out the .05 thickness difference between the two. Once I update my files, if you plan to use MDF you would probably have to file down the gaps to fit MDF, since I will design for .72 wide gaps. HOP I'm going to have an A-10 seat designed at some point, I have several files and references to go from, including yours now, thanks. Most everything you can find is F-16 but I know where the differences are for the A-10 version.

Yeah that won't be a problem, just a few more things to clean up and I can post the right, front, and base. You're on your own for the seat mount, I have no clue yet how I'll raise and lower the seat, may just go with fixed height.

Couple of previews of the front extension module that adds two feet to the front of the pit. This is an optional module that I would only recommend for people planning a projector setup. The extended front area allows the windscreen frame to be built, adding to the immersion of the pit. I think it adds a lot of personality to the pit and makes it start to resemble a hog. The canopy frame would take some real craftsmanship View from the business end Example with a 6ft radius, 180 degree screen centered at the pilots head, for three projectors. Would be a great setup, if you have the room.

looks good. I was planning to either glue or use brackets to secure the throttle platform. Only thing I see is I think you put the rear brackets on upside down. If you put'm on the other way it will put the platform level with the panel surface. Not a big deal really though.

.02 sounds like the way to go for sure, thanks Flim. I'm redoing all of the gaps on my model and will post updated files.

most of the rail structure is 0.5" x 1.0" x .125" architectural type, in stock now here http://www.metalsdepot.com/products/alum2.phtml?page=aangle&LimAcc=%20&aident=. There are also a couple pieces of 1x1 and some .5" strips to finish the job. Here is a sketchup file of the rails, with some wireframe of the panel dimensions over it. This is the easiest way to explain it. The channels created on the outer edge of the rails slips over the rib that runs length-wise. I didn't see that piece in your cutouts yet, I'm guessing that's another piece you still have to cut? rails.7z

awesome it looks great, I'll use .02 also. Did you also reduce them to .7 to start? The right side is almost ready with the clearance fixed for .02

Perfect! yes that :getName() is the magic word I was looking for. I didn't do any trial and error though thanks. I'm going to try and get everything buried under the one ATC menu, where F10 is a "Next Page" option.

Great mod AJ! TooBad51, I'm interested in your fix. I found the lua function that sorts the listed airports by distance, and replacing it with a function that sorts alphabetically by name. I don't know how to get the name yet? How are you accomplishing this? I'd also like to mod the ATC menu so that F10 is a "Next Page" option, so we can keep the main menu structure the same as original. BTW I use WSR Macros, so this mod is not only VAC-friendly!

You may (and probably do) have to do a quality check of the dxf. I can't vouch for the quality of the Sketchup to DXF export plugin that I use. I have always had success with it in the past, after some tweaking to get all the correct polylines.

For the baseline CAD files, I'll get rid of the tolerances. 0.0625 built in tolerance plus .05 possible difference in thickness is too much.

MDF is a true .75 but I'm not planning on using that either. Is all 3/4 plywood actually .7 then? There is 1/16" of total clearance in each notch. I'm fine with removing the clearance, I didn't want it there in the first place, but I was advised that it should be there. I'll post updates later today.

Source? I've never heard of P-factor or torque with a ducted turbofan. Not saying you're wrong, I'm honestly curious if you have a source. If the accepted wisdom is that the right engine is critical, I think it would be due to asymmetric drag. Both the pave penny pod and nose gear strut are off axis to the right.

Not pitch angle directly, in PATH HOLD mode pitch angle varies as airspeed (and AoA) changes. It makes the most sense for it to reference EGI, unless it's a legacy system that still references HARS or the baro. altimeter directly.

I like to practice formation landings by giving my wingy RTB, then joining up on him. I have to touch down with my outer wheel on the extreme edge of the pavement so I don't clip his wing when he catches the three wire and I shoot past him. Reducing AI braking to the same level as the player would be awesome. Even better, aerodynamic braking until around 80 kts, then apply brakes at a reasonable level.

push pull switches are commonly built into pots, example.

cool good to know, thx. I'd like to achieve engraving results as good as yours some day :helpsmilie:

Yeah it seems like over time when you do the math, BYOL is the only way to go (buy your own laser, not to be confused with bring your own liquor, although I support both). I've spent > $600 using the laser alone and not even completely satisfied with my panels yet because I get mixed results with back lighting. Wish I had put that towards exactly what you bought, I'd be halfway to paying it back already, what with the sunk cost, and I'd have the tool to show for it.

Man I've been paying $1/minute on the laser, am I getting hosed? Laser vs. router I know, but still...

very cool! FYI, the next file is posted in the original post

Good point about the bit size. I prefer not to have to deal with tool changes in the middle of my runs, but drilling with 1/8 and cutting with larger is probably a good idea. If you up the bit size to 1/4", just be sure to check any profile cuts in the area of the inner sidewall of the ribs. There are slots intended for sliding a piece of hardboard covered in fabric. That's about the only area where I could see a bigger bit just plain not fitting, so the tool path may miss them completely. Also create a drill operation at each of the inner corners to prevent the larger radius from blocking your assembly. I'm planning to use plywood, it gives better options for skinning, like using wood screws directly into the ribs. In the case of MDF, I made drill holes so you can attach small pieces of alum. angle to help with skinning. I'm thinking about making the outer skin permanent, so I'll use a combination of screws and construction adhesive to bond the skin. Not that I'm a rivet counter or anything, but on the real aircraft there aren't a lot of rivets in the area being skinned for this pit, and they don't all follow a vertical path. So I may rely more on the adhesive and put screws mainly on the outer edges, and try to follow the real shapes as closely as possible. I think the most important part for the overall look will be separating the canopy sill into a separate piece. What do you guys think about using a foam filler between ribs to help shape the curves of the skin and make it easier to bend without creasing... necessary? Not necessary?

No, the left and right sides are different. Some parts are mirror images of the left side, but many are not.

I'm going to try to average one module per week, including the build tutorial. Obviously I'm a bit behind that schedule already because of the thanksgiving weekend but I'll catch up soon. Next section will be the left front, followed by right and right front. Then the pit floor, then finally the center section with instrument panel. After that will be the ACES 2 seat which I still have to design. I have a stand-in seat but I'm not really at liberty to redistribute it, so I will be designing one from scratch based on the best available information. I also plan to add another optional 2ft. at the front of the pit, which will allow for a full windscreen structure to be built. I already have the curves pretty well figured out and it makes a big difference in making it look like an A-10, so I'm considering it for my own pit... I mean who needs that 2ft of floor space anyway, right?. Only thing is, it would push the visuals farther out so it would probably be best for a projector setup and not a tv/monitor. Good question on the plywood, I'll figure it out and let you know.

y2kiah's cockpit plans released! Left side cut layout 4x8 **Update** this module is fixed using .703" thickness for birch plywood, and .005" spacing Front sides cut layout 4x8 contains both left and right modules on one 4x8 sheet **Update** this module is fixed using .703" thickness for birch plywood, and .005" spacing Right side cut layout 4x8 **Update** this module is fixed using .703" thickness for birch plywood, and .005" spacing rails.7z Sketchup model of dzus rails Center floor cut layout 4x8 Center floor cut layout v.2 4x8 **Update** this module is fixed using .703" thickness for birch plywood, and .005" spacing I've included center points for all drill holes in the .dxf, could be helpful for CAM, and you can delete the circles if they are not needed. The first file has a lowered floor section under the seat, version 2 has a level floor all the way back. Front extension cut layout 4x8 **Update** this module is fixed using .703" thickness for birch plywood, and .005" spacing All module cut layouts are designed for a 4'x8' sheet of 3/4" nominal plywood (.703 actual). I recommend using a 1/8" bit for drilling, and up to 1/4" bit for cutting. Joinery can be done with glue, drilling directly into the material, bolting through, metal corner brackets and tie plates, cross dowels, or a combination of those methods. Pilot holes are pre-positioned for all of those methods. **TERMS OF USE** By downloading any of these files, you agree to the following terms and conditions: y2kiah's A-10C Cockpit Plans is licensed under a Creative Commons Attribution-NonCommercial-ShareAlike 3.0 Unported License.

looks great! Which display did you use? I was never able to find one of that type that fit the panel.