y2kiah

Deadman, I have a few one-off knobs already so I would need "almost" a full set I guess. I'm pretty sure I have the knob for the EWMU panel, it has a rounded grip and has some extra height at the bottom to fit the recessed area in the panel. I'll check to make sure, if so I could cast it and send to you so you can reproduce it. Also, I would be looking for just the grip of some of the knobs with an engraved disk on them like the two on the environment panel and one on the intercom panel. What were you planning to do for those?

same here

Around $4 per knob unpainted is what I paid another guy, I'm guessing it's not going to be too different, but the price is up to Deadman of course. edit: I was one of those guys not happy with the knobs I got from "that guy." Too many imperfections in the casting.

I'm in for a full set if you do

how did you engrave through the paint without creating dust? was the paint still wet when you engraved?

If you want to set the waypoint to ground level, besides creating a markpoint you can also go to the waypoint page on CDU, call up the waypoint in question, and enter the latitude or longitude (exactly as it already appears). This will keep the waypoint at the same coordinates but places it at ground level. The markpoint way is probably better from a flight management point of view though.

I use CamBam Plus on Win7 64, it should work fine. You get 40 evaluation uses free, then you have to purchase or switch to the old free version (not recommended since it is missing some good features like auto tab generation and lead-in operations). Some warnings always show up but don't matter, those will never go away. Others might be relevant like you're missing some required data in one of the machining operations. Let me know the error details and I'll try to help if I can.

no need for Paypal, this one's on me :beer:

Looking forward to your progress. If you recommend this laser overall I might have to start thinking about a purchase...hmm I may need to rethink my process of laser engraving the panels. Right now I engrave through a mask and then spray white to give the letters good contrast. But this method definitely impacts back lighting for the worse. It's also messy, the laser creates a lot of paint dust that ends up sticking to the engravings, so I do a second pass to clear out some of the dust but it still leaves a lot behind and it's very hard to clean out. If you find a better way, please let me know!

Hi Avolga, see my thread post here for a sample (front panel) to get you started. You can import the dxf into CamBam Plus and do your own CAM to produce the G-code. I usually zero my z-axis at the top of the stock, and use negative numbers for depth of cut. Great job on the machine and have fun!

front panel file Attached is a dxf of my front panel. You could import this into CamBam or other CAM programs to prepare it for CNC machining. It's not exactly like the real panel at the top, but there is plenty of area to attach the dash and cutouts to run wires through, and that part is hidden anyway. Also note that I removed the insets for the MFD 8.4" screens to make the file less confusing. They can be added back in manually. More files to come soon. front_panel.zip

Here's my take on the arc-164 and landing panel more coming soon...

niiice, that looks sweet. man... why didn't I got that route? I would be done with my panels already

You might have some luck on http://100kgarages.com/

this looks like a good idea I think it will work out well. the only thing I would do different is maybe use some extruded aluminum gusset like this and fill with jb weld instead of trying to build them up from nothing. An 8.4" screen is the minimum you'll want for a true 5x5 screen area. That size will fit as long as you leave cutout space for overflow above each MFCD. This shows the fit of an 8.4".

looking very good

Thanks! I cut the case by hand this time around but I will try one on the CNC as well some day. The reflection is kind of weird, I noticed it too. I just haven't painted the sides of the master caution button yet so we're seeing some kind of weird refraction through the clear acrylic.

UFC Here is my UFC work in progress. The case and front panel are coming together, I still have to do some filling, sanding and painting and make the electronics.

I also got a 5.6" and 5.0" from that guy for the ADI and HSI. They work and his shipping is fast, but he does not combine shipping on multiple items. Also, the writing on the display menus is Chinese (at least on the displays I got) but it's not too hard to figure out.

Looks exactly like mine, it will fit a 3.5" screen between the lsk's with no problem. If you make the top layer out of 1/16 acrylic you can bring the screen right up to the top surface. The only difference is I'm using this monitor with VGA input

I wouldn't be so sure... I've had an AAP, EWMU, and environment panels available for sale for a week now and so far no takers. Then again, maybe my panels just aren't good enough.

doh! I guess you get what you pay for

converting linear motion to rotational motion shouldn't be a problem, you already have a pivot point

http://www.allelectronics.com/make-a-store/item/SOL-102/MINIATURE-12VDC-PUSH-TYPE-SOLENOID/1.html can't beat the price

ooh sweet, simple and effective. Can you enlighten me, how is the front face secured to those standoffs?