Finding the right knobs/ switches

Ya, sorry, i wasnt specific on the direction with the resistors, but your understanding is correct....

To see if the switch is up/down you just look for 0/1 ON and to see if we're in the middle look for 2 OFF

stellos2000;

Is this the opencockpits card you are trying to use?

USB keyboard emulator card

http://www.opencockpits.com/catalog/usbkeys-card-p-53.html?cPath=21_35

stellos2000;

Is this the opencockpits card you are trying to use?

 

USB keyboard emulator card

http://www.opencockpits.com/catalog/usbkeys-card-p-53.html?cPath=21_35

among others yes.i try to eastablish the cockpit using ALL the opencockpits.com cards...

actually this i already use it :music_whistling: (as stand alone card and not connected with any other)

as keyboard emulator (only with push buttons and some on/on switches)

and not with programming sioc....

thanks by the way :thumbup:

stellos2000;

The good news is Opencockpit cards are great for what they were designed for.

The bad news is, they weren't designed with DCS in mind, but rather FSX. Now that's not saying they can not be used with DCS, but not in the all encompassing way you might want. For somethings in the simpit they will be useful, but you will still, unfortunately, need to buy other cards to accomplish the things you wish to do. (depending on how accurate you're trying to build your pit)

As any simpit builder can tell you, rarely will you use only one brand of I/O cards. (usually only in the simplest of pits) I myself use several companies cards to do what I need done. (the easiest way of course)

Sorry; I wish I had better news for you.

As a side note: If this is your first simpit build, give a hug and kiss to your family, cause its a NEVER! ending endeavor. No matter how well you build the pit, you always think 'I can make this better if I do...'. Currently I'm building a Uh-1H simpit, which by the way is my 5th pit build in a long line of builds going back to my MSFS days. Good Luck my friend.

stellos2000;

 

The good news is Opencockpit cards are great for what they were designed for.

The bad news is, they weren't designed with DCS in mind, but rather FSX. Now that's not saying they can not be used with DCS, but not in the all encompassing way you might want. For somethings in the simpit they will be useful, but you will still, unfortunately, need to buy other cards to accomplish the things you wish to do. (depending on how accurate you're trying to build your pit)

 

As any simpit builder can tell you, rarely will you use only one brand of I/O cards. (usually only in the simplest of pits) I myself use several companies cards to do what I need done. (the easiest way of course)

 

Sorry; I wish I had better news for you.

 

As a side note: If this is your first simpit build, give a hug and kiss to your family, cause its a NEVER! ending endeavor. No matter how well you build the pit, you always think 'I can make this better if I do...'. Currently I'm building a Uh-1H simpit, which by the way is my 5th pit build in a long line of builds going back to my MSFS days. Good Luck my friend.

it is my first try indeed....i dont want to make an accurate cockpit....

i just want to use switches and monitors to replace the keyboard....

i have made the skeleton from aluminium profiles and i have placed on them panels from plexiglass...now i am finishing my cnc router to engrave them....

and i will put just ordinary 12v on/off swithces

thanks for the info....you ruined my day though ( :smilewink::smilewink::smilewink:)

just kidding

.. just ordinary 12v on/off swithces

BTW - You can modify physically DPDT ON-OFF-ON switch in ON-ON-ON (with risk to "kill" then). :D

http://www.harmonycentral.com/forum/forum/Forums_General/acapella-94/31545138-how-to-convert-on-off-on-dpdt-switches-to-on-on-on-selector-switch

BTW - You can modify physically DPDT ON-OFF-ON switch in ON-ON-ON (with risk to "kill" then). :D

 

http://www.harmonycentral.com/forum/forum/Forums_General/acapella-94/31545138-how-to-convert-on-off-on-dpdt-switches-to-on-on-on-selector-switch

i think he is wrong...

when you solder/connect/wire the mid pins they ALWAYS are ON despite the position of the lever...

i just opened one of this....

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Toggle-Switch-AC-250V-15A-On-Off-On-3-Way-DPDT-Latching-Car-Dash-Metal-Light-12V-/191590635179?hash=item2c9bb116ab:g:sQMAAOSwjVVVkle0

and it is already bended....in every position the lever touches the mids and with the other end the first/second or mid position....so this cannot be done

Yes, the central pin of switch is always connected, but you will use this pin only for IN, not for IN and OUT.

Dont make this bridge between middle pins that guy suggest - probable he need always ON on guitar, you need ON and OFF.

Just bend one leg of levers, that are in \/, in opposite way. __/ \__

Now with switch in middle one these bent lever connect middle to up and the other middle to down.

Moving the switch you open one these middle connection and close one up or down position.

__/ or \__

Since you need a middle position toggleable ON/OFF, make the jumper (red) in this way:

http://www.modular.fonik.de/files/ononon.gif

The middle contact is broke when you move switch up or down for connect this respective (OUT) positions, turning the center position OFF.

Moving switch back for center, are turning OFF up or down and ON the center.

Hope that this make sense. :)

Connecting the pins on a dpdt to make an on-on-on spdt really really does work. If you need witness the cruddy wiring in my controller and output in mmjoy2 i'll record it to prove it...

stellos2000; ...Now that's not saying they can not be used with DCS, but not in the all encompassing way you might want. For somethings in the simpit they will be useful, but you will still, unfortunately, need to buy other cards to accomplish the things you wish to do. (depending on how accurate you're trying to build your pit)....

@DeJohn: Can you clearify what functions you say that SIOC/OC card can't do in a DCS setup ?

Agree on that many brands of cards/interface solutions are used depending on requirements, some easier to adopt then others but I find your general statement wrong here. No offence intended

Best

Gus

Duckling; Sorry if my post wasn't clear. The post was directed towards Stellos situation, since this thread was kinda vague as to what I/O card they were having a problem with.

The statements I made become true when you apply the conditions I used... (depending on how accurate you're trying to build your pit), (usually only in the simplest of pits), (the easiest way of course).

As I said, I use several kinds of I/O cards, not because one company's card can't do the job at all, but because another one might be easier to use for that task. (sort of like plug and play).

As an example, some of the cards I use in my pits (for ease of use) are...

Leo Bodnar cards

Opencockpits pulse generator

phidgetles led controller

Arduino Mega

each of those cards can do most the same jobs, but others do specific jobs better or easier. And as a former USAF maintenance tech, remember one of our mottos... "Work smarter, not harder." lol

one use the best, easiest and smartest solution at hand for the task, cant' agree more there.

Sioc interface of a dcs pit is on the gray area there compared to at least dcsbios setup but once one get into the procedure a complete pit setup using these is not impossible Not the least expensive option though but the bundled supportsystem is great when things start to get bad ;-)

Running 3usb expansion and 8 mastercards currently plus some add-ons in my A-10 pit.Dcsbios /arduinos also right now also for display handling. Cost per port is ok at least

Not sure if this is the right thread, but I just found some suitable hats for example the lower hat in ka-50 collective. Connection might take some fiddling, but check it out.

They're available in ebay also.

http://www.amazon.com/Hobbypower-Transmitter-Throttle-Upgrade-Spektrum/dp/B00HC530O4

The switch in Mirage(?) is to specific to find to buy, unless from military supply.

 

Buy the generic from eBay and 3D print a new cover, similar do this that people did for F-16.

 

 

Leo Bodnar have this dual knob:

 

http://www.leobodnar.com/shop/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=98_75&products_id=197

 

For this (dual) encoder:

 

http://www.leobodnar.com/shop/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=98_75&products_id=196

Also might consider making one using a 3D printer. If you don't want to do it yourself, I bet a 3rd party vendor would do it like a sub-contractor type. I know the submarine base outside Seattle uses a metal matrix instead of plastics using 3D printers, whether the matrix stuff is available currently outside the military's special needs engineering, civilian side, I don't know, but it will eventually trickle down, always does. Yahoo! Groups has a lot of metal machinist guys, I bet 3D printer, also, if you want to get into it.

I wanted to make this red switch cover work as it is at RAZBAM Mirage2000

so i bought from ebay this one

and installing magnetic reed switch as this

http://www.ebay.com/itm/291495918512?_trksid=p2060353.m2749.l2648&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT

and using C.A. glue i put a small rare earth magnet also bought from ebay

(there are smaller rare earth magnets also)

so now when i open/close the cover the same happens at the game...

also it isnt visible and dont bother when i press the button...

i think it is an easy and cheap way to make this work

Does anyone know the Mirage2000 Arguments of the 7 segments ?

thank you in advance

Looking good! Do you have a link or search word for those switch covers?

Looking good! Do you have a link or search word for those switch covers?

http://www.ebay.com/itm/291520383194?_trksid=p2060353.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT

Does anyone know the Mirage2000 Arguments of the 7 segments ?

arguments?

arguments?

the id numbers for each 7segment :music_whistling:

:helpsmilie: :helpsmilie: :helpsmilie:

The T.16000m has a lot of 'unused' buttons on its base and there are a couple of button mods that add a pinky switch or designated 'lase button' by soldering it in parallel to the aforementioned buttons that are most of the time out of reach.

I was wondering, would it be possible to add an additional 4 way head to the T.16000m? There's 12 buttons on its housing that i don't really use. I have looked around but did not find any 4 way head buttons to buy. Any good store that sells those come to mind?

Sc_Neo,

If you find space in the T.16000 head to fit the switch, no problem in wire in parallel with the unused in base.

Look for "Navigation Switch" - they are 4/5 way (click) and very compact.

Some models linked there:

https://forums.eagle.ru/showpost.php?p=2960865&postcount=200

Debolestis Shapeways was "HAT" (F-16 style) cover.

More conventional "HAT" - is rare and expensive, the ones I find.

https://forums.eagle.ru/showpost.php?p=2962019&postcount=214

Grayhill model (is similar, same size to HAT used in old Tm B-8 FCS) don't come with cap, but this is easy to solve with Debolestis. :)

@Sokol1_br ..... thx a lot for the help. The stuff at http://uk.farnell.com is pretty much what i am looking for. Making the actual head from a piece of wood or whatever ain't a big problem. Its really weird, the actual 4/5 navigation switch costs less than a pound there...but complete with an actual head on them nothing less than 16$ pops up.

Yes, real estate is tight on the T.16000m. Unfortunately the big 3 grey buttons at the top of the stick are not siple push-buttons but seem to press against a cb. The slickest way to do it would be to place the 4/5 way navigation switches at these exact spots (where the 3 big greay buttons sit now) and canabalize their function for the click function of the 4 way switch and run 4 wires from the base buttons upwards to feed the 4 directions.

Additionally i'd love to steal 4 inputs from the POV / 8 way head thats already there. I really have a hard time to consistently push the diagonal directions...hence pretty much i use it as a simple 4 way head in the end.

The T.16000m has 24 ''clickable'' inputs overall in addtition to its 5 analogue axes. Thats a lot to work with and in its vanilla state, its really underutilized.

If you know of a thread/post by some who made such a comprehensive mod to a joystick please let me know. I guess i have to look a bit more into what i can actually comfortably re-use from the T.16000m before ordering something. You pointed me in the right direction to get started, thx a lot.

Additionally i'd love to steal 4 inputs from the POV / 8 way head thats already there. I really have a hard time to consistently push the diagonal directions...hence pretty much i use it as a simple 4 way head in the end.

Note that the POV HAT are not 8 way switch, but 4 way switch (N-E-S-W).

Joystick firmware when detects that 2 buttons are pressed simultaneous, example N + E, send the NE press - for what don't exist a dedicated switch - for Windows/Games.

You can use this positions for wire individual switches, but is need use diodes for avoid signal return.

To have access in T.1600M top the way is do some "plastic surgery" there, years ago I start one, but not finish - due lack of o need. :)

The plan are cut the top, fit a box (aluminum, plastic, fiber glass, model plywood... ) there and migrate all base buttons to the top, using a 3 way mode switch several buttons can press 2/3 depends on switch position, similar to Cobra M5.

Added a pink lever and button (left side, lower).

nice build :) Did you add a second stage to the gun trigger up fron as well? I don't quite understand how i could turn the orginal 4 way HAT which acts as an 8 way HAT into 2 four way HATs? I guess there aint't 8 wires going down but the pcb sends different digital signals for each position. Could you elebarote a bit more on how this '4/8 way HAT' could be modified into 2 seperate 4 way HATs?