FeistyLemur Posted August 21, 2015 Posted August 21, 2015 So I just got the TM warthog. When I put the stick on, everything went on super smooth, I didn't tighten it down excessively tight. But I can't get the stick back off. It feels like it was put on by Conan the Barbarian now, like if I turn it any harder the gimbal might break. Doesn't make sense to me, I've seen videos and it seems like it comes off like nothing. Has anyone had an issue with this?
Art-J Posted August 21, 2015 Posted August 21, 2015 Nope, that ain't right. The mini-DIN socket in a new unit will be a bit tight, but it should disengage with a rather small effort. I'm not sure about the "everything went on super smooth" part, because it sounds like You might inadvertently bent something. I hope You didn't try to mount it backwards (though I've read about some people doing it). Does the stick work correctly anyway, all the buttons and stuff? i7 9700K @ stock speed, single GTX1070, 32 gigs of RAM, TH Warthog, MFG Crosswind, Win10.
FeistyLemur Posted August 21, 2015 Author Posted August 21, 2015 Definitely didn't try to mount backwards, it went on easy as can be. Nothing felt strange. I can't even budge the collar now though. If I turn any harder it's going to start twisting the gimbal and I don't want to break it. all buttons and functions work 100% Like it doesn't even budge, it's not even attempting to lift the mini din out of it's socket, it's as if someone glued it on to the gimbal threads and the collar and threads became one. I can't figure out how that could be, It's just a simple collar as far as I can recall.
weeb Posted August 21, 2015 Posted August 21, 2015 (edited) Sounds like an impacted thread, I cut them quite often in the cockpit build but some times, the thread kicks off in a bizarre movement and it sticks, everyone here has probably had the same issue. it's not a problem, per si, you have to just "I know you have a £200.00 stick" but use a rubber mallet or hide mallet, I know it goes against everything you think about, and soft tap it back, then look at the thread, its easy sorted with a mini file. Trust me the warthog is a solid stick, gimbal is shit, but thread is not an issue. :joystick: Edited August 21, 2015 by weeb remove the b Windows 7 64 Home Premium, i5 3570K (3.4 @ 4.4GHz), Asus P8Z77-V LX, 16GB dual channel 1600 ram, EVGA Nvidia GTX980ti, 240 GB OCZ SSD, 3 TB Raptor, Thrustmaster Warthog Hotas and Throttle, Saitek Pro Combat Rudder pedals.
FeistyLemur Posted August 21, 2015 Author Posted August 21, 2015 (edited) I played around with it some more and took a cloth to grip the collar, held it by the stick and not the base and it eventually did come loose with no damage. The threads look fine, it was just inexplicably tighter than I remember ever torquing it down. I was thinking why not get the gimbal parts 3d scanned and get them made in MIM metal or 3d printed like that company solid concepts does, the ones that 3d printed a colt 1911a1, but I guess there's a magnet in there with the sensor, maybe it needs to be plastic to prevent it interfering with the sensor? Maybe it would be stupid expensive to do even if worked as well. Edited August 21, 2015 by FeistyLemur
xoxen Posted August 22, 2015 Posted August 22, 2015 If you ever 3D scan the parts please share the model. As Thrustmaster does not sell gimbals (requested a week ago with no answer at all and read many posts with the same experience) it'd be great to have the chance to 3D print it by my own. If the stick is as tight again it may work to cool it down. Plastik shrinks more than metal and it might come loose easier. Xoxen AMD Ryzen 7 5800X3D, MSI MPG X570 Gaming Plus, 64GB Crucial Ballistix DDR4-3600 CL16, Asus TUF Gaming RTX 4080 OC, Windows 11 64bit Home Premium, TrackIR 5 with TrackClip: Pro!, Virpil MongoosT-50CM3 Base + TM Warthog Stick + 7cm extension + WINWING Orion 2 with F-15EX grips, Cougar MFDs with 8" displays, Saitek Rudder Pedals, Samsung Odyssey G9 49" 5120x1440 @120 Hz
FeistyLemur Posted August 23, 2015 Author Posted August 23, 2015 I'm amazed no one has had one 3d scanned yet then. Disappointing to learn they don't sell replacement parts. I'm not totally up on 3d scanning, would you have to cut the piece in half and destroy it to scan it? given the nature of it being a cup shape. The average gloopy 3d printer wouldn't really be up to the task either of recreating a plastic part I don't imagine.
7rooper Posted August 23, 2015 Posted August 23, 2015 If a 3d model for this piece existed I could take it to a lathe to get it built in stainless steel or aluminum so it doesn't mess with the magnetic field of the hall sensor My rig specs: Intel Core i7 4770 @3.4Ghz // Corsair 16GB DDR3 // MoBo Asus Z87K // HDD 1TB 7200RPM // eVGA Nvidia GTX 760GT 2GB DDR5 // LG 3D 47" 1920x1080 // Thrustmaster Warthog HOTAS // Saitek Combat Pro Pedals // Thrustmaster MFD Cougar pack // PS3 Eye + FTNOIR
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