Opentrack track clip with fixed ir led

aap_flanker · July 21, 2016

I recently put all my efforts on making a functional head tracking system. After a few searches i found that the most used is Opentrack.

Once known that, I started with buying the components:

- PS3 eye camera (get from ebay for only u$s 4)

- 3 ir leds

- wires, soldering, etc

- attachment device (found an old motorola belt mount in my house)

- usb conector (this is used to power the leds)

- 39ohms resistor for a 90ma current -30ma per led- (this is connected in serial with leds and leds are conected in parallel).

The ps3 must be "hacked" to get a better reading of the leds and disregard all other lights.

This one was useful for me

Now bulding the led clip:

Finished

Then i found a problem, the led is hardly seen when its seen from the side, after a lot of tries testing different materials to make a diffuser i found the simplest answer.... Use sand paper in the leds.

So here how it looks:

Sanding led and normal led

Testing... normal led left - sanding led right

How it is seen by the camera... Normal led left - sanding led right -( front view)

As you can see the sanding leds looks more detailed, only a big defined dot

(Disregard the middle led view its other kind of filter that i was testing)

Lateral view.... Normal led left and sanding led right

I hope that you found out this useful. I wnated to share that you can use any cheap IR led with perfect results, and no need for go and try to find a specific or hard to find model....

Lets smming :joystick:

Devrim · July 21, 2016

And this is my headtracker. Plus, I sticked a dark-brown film on web-cam (you know, a little piece from old mechanic camera films' first frames). Open Track reads red-light very nice.

Len62 · July 21, 2016

Very nice! Here's a pic of mine, frame cut from some thin, light-weight, Baltic birch plywood.

aap_flanker · July 21, 2016

And this is my headtracker. Plus, I sticked a dark-brown film on web-cam (you know, a little piece from old mechanic camera films' first frames). Open Track reads red-light very nice.

Good work! Im thinking about to move to this kind of clip shape.... Because the clip is always aligned with the camera.... With mine I'm having "troubles" because when I zoom in the relative position of the clip (on my left) induced a little movement to the right...

Devrim · July 21, 2016

You're right. I tried triple thing, but -as you said- somehow I couldn't be comfortable.

Plus, I wear glasses (for eyes). When I turn my head right or left, reflection from my glasses was being a problem for headtrack software. :)

Len62 · July 21, 2016

I also wear glasses and I cured the reflection issue by making sure the middle led was far enough forward to be past the rim of my glasses. Devrim, I may have to give your style a try though! I cured the reflection problem but now it interferes with my coffee drinking.

Tekkx · July 21, 2016

Hey you.

I am also wearing glasses.

And so my solution looks like this. Some improved meanwhile but almost same.

Replaced 3mm IR-LEDs with 5mm IR ones.

Works really fine with FaceTrackNoIR :)

Len62 · July 21, 2016

That looks pretty good. Never thought to strap it to a pair of glasses!

Tekkx · July 22, 2016

... Never thought to strap it to a pair of glasses!

Thats why I posted it here :)

Sometimes (or: over times) it can become some annoying to change specs each time you want to move away from the cockpit.

Right now ("now" is relative cause I think about a lot of things) I think about a gimmick for easy removing and replugging the IR-clip.

The quest is, to bring that thing with a single move (without seeing anything - it is besides your head) in a very exact determined position (without degrading calibration of FtNIR).

Two pairs of very heavy powered Neodyme Magnets could do this Job... (still thinking about).

Mr_Burns · July 22, 2016

SO you dont need any capacitors for the LEDs? Im sick on my track clip getting freaked out and all of a sudden my view is reversed I want an LED version.

Last time it freaked out I was about to AIM-9 a Mig, luckily I kept in the turn and got the tone and the kill....

Sorry just re-read you ingredients list - how do you work out what resistors you need if using a usb power supply?

Also, does it improve tracking if you make the LEDs further apart or closer together? eg if it were like devrims say a 1 inch arm compared to a 4 inch arm...

Edited July 22, 2016 by Mr_Burns

Tekkx · July 22, 2016

... Im sick on my track clip getting freaked out and all of a sudden my view is reversed I want an LED version.
...

Thow the question isn't directed to me:

It depends not just on length of arms ... Most important: You need a clean calibration of your clip (no matter, how it looks like).

Main thing is, LEDs mustn't cover each other at some positions. FtNIR has to "see" three LEDs at each time and position.

Also (somewhere in FtNIR - now don't remember where) you can determine behavior of your (virtual) position if FtNIR looses track.

My tracker looses Track everytime I nick down to look at some Instruments like CDU or AAP or the ashtray... virtual Head (at my configuration) stays where it was until tracking goes on.

Edited July 22, 2016 by Tekkx

Len62 · July 22, 2016

Sorry just re-read you ingredients list - how do you work out what resistors you need if using a usb power supply?

Some pretty good info at this site. Even has a section that will tell you what size resistor you will need.

http://www.free-track.net/english/

Tekkx · July 22, 2016

...
The ps3 must be "hacked" to get a better reading of the leds and disregard all other lights.
...

Now I read the opening post completely:

I also use the PS3eye (was also cheap at eBay).

If someone read this later and want to redo the whole thing:

If you use IR-LEDs with enough strength (your - aap_flanker - 5mm ones should be good) it shouldn't be necessary to modify your cam.

I just added a simple piece of red film (used for lighting in theaters) in front of the camera to filter unwanted light and side effects.

I added some photographs with

- clip: you see grinded LED-tops to diffuse theire beams. Clip itsself is made from sandwich card-foam-card as used in Advertising or Architecture modeling. The whole clip is very light-weight. The heavyiest thing is (maybe) the 8.5 Ohms Resistor :)

- PS3eye with set red filter - just a piece of 25mm-vinyl tube with glued film

- screenshot of FtNIR while tracking

Edited July 22, 2016 by Tekkx

Mr_Burns · July 22, 2016

Thow the question isn't directed to me:
It depends not just on length of arms ... Most important: You need a clean calibration of your clip (no matter, how it looks like).
Main thing is, LEDs mustn't cover each other at some positions. FtNIR has to "see" three LEDs at each time and position.

Also (somewhere in FtNIR - now don't remember where) you can determine behavior of your (virtual) position if FtNIR looses track.
My tracker looses Track everytime I nick down to look at some Instruments like CDU or AAP or the ashtray... virtual Head (at my configuration) stays where it was until tracking goes on.

Nah cool mate, it was directed at anyone so thanks, will look at the, mine is swigging beer! Will add rep tomorrow, iPad ISS in retard mode?!

Edited July 22, 2016 by Mr_Burns

aap_flanker · July 22, 2016

Thow the question isn't directed to me:
It depends not just on length of arms ... Most important: You need a clean calibration of your clip (no matter, how it looks like).
Main thing is, LEDs mustn't cover each other at some positions. FtNIR has to "see" three LEDs at each time and position.

Also (somewhere in FtNIR - now don't remember where) you can determine behavior of your (virtual) position if FtNIR looses track.
My tracker looses Track everytime I nick down to look at some Instruments like CDU or AAP or the ashtray... virtual Head (at my configuration) stays where it was until tracking goes on.

Thats right! The most important thing is to avoid LEDs overlapping, and you get that by making the clip "taller" (more separation between each other)... I'm thinking to re-make mine, because that separation is too short, and I'm getting overlapping when I look down....

By other hand I think you will never had that problem if you use a kind like hat clip

Edited July 22, 2016 by aap_flanker
wrong milti quote

aap_flanker · July 22, 2016

Now I read the opening post completely:
I also use the PS3eye (was also cheap at eBay).

If someone read this later and want to redo the whole thing:

If you use IR-LEDs with enough strength (your - aap_flanker - 5mm ones should be good) it shouldn't be necessary to modify your cam.

I just added a simple piece of red film (used for lighting in theaters) in front of the camera to filter unwanted light and side effects.

I haven't tried that, but I'm pretty sure it will work without hacking the camera (removing IR filter).

My problem was that the camera didn't see the light of the led when it was lateral... Then I hacked (broke the camera) and the problem is still there.... After that I figured out that I need a diffuser on each led, and that is how I discover that if you sand the led you will get a 180 degrees led beam....

In addition, my LEDs runs with low power consumption (only 30ma each vs 100ma each recommended in most of the sites), so may be you can try by using a higher resistor but smaller size (mine is 0,25watt).

I will post if I make any changes in the model.

Edited July 22, 2016 by aap_flanker

Tekkx · July 22, 2016

...
I'm thinking to re-make mine, because that separation is too short, and I'm getting overlapping when I look down....

Maybe it solves some problems if you shorten or extend your upper or lower "arm". So they can't shadow the middle LED. But if they too short, your head comes in the line as you turn it left.

Let a friend take some photographs of you (sidelong, best while dogfighting) at different positions of your head/body. So you can determine the extreme nick angels and LED's positions (length of arms).. ( just an idea of this minute).

Don't forget to adapt your settings in Freetrack or FTNIR every time you made a modification.

I will remake mine also. But it's just one of my (felt) 1023 DCS-related projects, so it stuck at a very early testbed-status :)

The pic shows an attempt I did very quick as I gave an order to a laser cutter's studio. There was some unused place on the sheet and so I "quick-drawed" this and put the thing there.

The design is completely unscientific and has some headroom for improvement :)

It is cut from 3mm clear Acrylic sheet (white protective film is still on it).

It works as a light conductor. Three IR-LEDs will shine through the arms. I don't know if it'll work. One LED I put there for your imagination :)

Maybe I bring some silver coating on it for better reflection inside... (???)

As I see as I previewed this post: Photo is token upside down (Australian way). :D

If someone has a laser cutter on hand, I add a link to a SVG so you can do your own tests :)

Edited July 22, 2016 by Tekkx
edited some known typos

aap_flanker · July 22, 2016

Maybe it solves some problems if you shorten or extend your upper or lower "arm". So they can't shadow the middle LED. But if they too short, your head comes in the line as you turn it left.
Let a friend take some photographs of you (sidelong, best while dogfighting) at different positions of your head/body. So you can determine the extreme nick angels and LED's positions (length of arms).. ( just an idea of this minute).
Don't forget to adapt your settings in Freetrack or FTNIR every time you made a modification.

I will remake mine also. But it's just one of my (felt) 1023 DCS-related projects, so it stuck at a very early testbed-status :)
The pic shows an attempt I did very quick as I gave an order to a laser cutter's studio. There was some unused place on the sheet and so I "quick-drawed" this and put the thing there.
The design is completely unscientific and has some headroom for improvement :)

It is cut from 3mm clear Acrylic sheet (white protective film is still on it).
It works as a light conductor. Three IR-LEDs will shine through the arms. I don't know if it'll work. One LED I put there for your imagination :)
Maybe I bring some silver coating on it for better reflection inside... (???)

As I see as I previewed this post: Photo is token upside down (Australian way). :D

If someone has a laser cutter on hand, I add a link to a SVG so you can do your own tests :)

wow! i like your concept, would be great if it works!

btw, if you have problems with the ir beam at the tips try using sandpaper, at least the leds are made of acrylic too

wormeaten · July 22, 2016

This is my clip. I use it now for few years even I made it just to testing without soldering so working so good I never finish it. Body is made from 4mm thick copper conductor. Very sturdy and easy to build.

Tekkx · July 23, 2016

@wormeaten:

Looks very interesting. :)

This is an outstanding example for: improvised things are the most sustaining things :)

I have a lot of such steam punks here.

It's a big benefit for simmers (in contrast to modellers): We do not have to make our stuff for the showroom ;)

What kind of LEDs you are using?

Edited July 23, 2016 by Tekkx

wormeaten · July 23, 2016

What kind of LEDs you are using?

OPTO TLN115A IR-LED Water-clear 42° 5mm 950nm 100mA 1,35V

I file the top of the led to increase angle. Such IR LED is used in remote controllers and its god as SFH485P for which say is the best one for clip.

Here is link for SFH485P

Tekkx · January 6, 2017

....
It is cut from 3mm clear Acrylic sheet (white protective film is still on it).
It works as a light conductor. Three IR-LEDs will shine through the arms. I don't know if it'll work. One LED I put there for your imagination :)
Maybe I bring some silver coating on it for better reflection inside... (???)

As I see as I previewed this post: Photo is token upside down (Australian way). :D

If someone has a laser cutter on hand, I add a link to a SVG so you can do your own tests :)

https://forums.eagle.ru/attachment.php?attachmentid=144782&d=1469212750

Forget this thing!!!

I did a test last week (the case was low priority): NO function.

So I reworked the complete clip, using some IR-LEDs SFH 4209. They have a half angle of 25 degs. Means: No grinding :)

Three LEDs in series with a 16 Ohms Resistor at 5V.

Works very well :)

White shine of LEDs is just the reflection of my "flash"light :)

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Opentrack track clip with fixed ir led

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