Joystick electronics question

[Braeden108]

Hey guys, I pulled apart my Speedlink Phantom Hawk joystick. I have plans to convert it to an arduino powered stick. I was identifying which button closed which circuit on the motherboard of the stick, so I put the negative probe of my multimeter on the ground wire, and my positive probe on as switches positive wire. I pressed the button my meter gave me a beep saying there was continuity all was going as expected. But when I released the switch the beeping stopped and then a quarter second later, and always a quarter second later I'd get a short beep out of my meter. This doesn't present a problem to me, I'm mainly curious what it is. Anyone have any ideas?

[Brewnix]

Hey guys, I pulled apart my Speedlink Phantom Hawk joystick. I have plans to convert it to an arduino powered stick. I was identifying which button closed which circuit on the motherboard of the stick, so I put the negative probe of my multimeter on the ground wire, and my positive probe on as switches positive wire. I pressed the button my meter gave me a beep saying there was continuity all was going as expected. But when I released the switch the beeping stopped and then a quarter second later, and always a quarter second later I'd get a short beep out of my meter. This doesn't present a problem to me, I'm mainly curious what it is. Anyone have any ideas?

 

Hi, Is the switch going bad if it a momentary switch normal off and press on that would short meter to create the beep maybe the switch is dirty or bad causing enough continuity to show a quick short on the meter. Try shorting the leads with out the switch on the meter and see if you get same results? I think there is a level of voltage the meter uses to read a continuity between 2 conductors to give you a ohm reading.

"Maybe there is a capacitor bleeding off".<---Not totaly sure about this.

You have a switch isolated off all the joysticks pcbs?

[Sokol1_br]

If you are testing in the original circuit, I will no bother with this, can be caused be circuit - very generic and cheap in "no brand" joysticks.

 

As this Hawk joystick grip with 2 HATS and pinkie button has better usability, for example, than Tm T.16000M is good candidate for upgrade.

 

Replace the controller with MMjoy2, X,Y pot with HALL sensor or TLE5011 sensor, and maybe fit ball bearings in gimbal articulation, is not difficult.

 

Not sure but think their gimbal is clone of Logitech 3D PRO gimbal, with "piston" compress spring system similar to Saitek's, Tm. X and Warthog (although more "sophisticated in this).

Edited August 21, 2016 by Sokol1_br

[Braeden108]

If you are testing in the original circuit, I will no bother with this, can be caused be circuit - very generic and cheap in "no brand" joysticks.

 

As this Hawk joystick grip with 2 HATS and pinkie button has better usability, for example, than Tm T.16000M is good candidate for upgrade.

 

Replace the controller with MMjoy2, X,Y pot with HALL sensor or TLE5011 sensor, and maybe fit ball bearings in gimbal articulation, is not difficult.

 

Not sure but think their gimbal is clone of Logitech 3D PRO gimbal, with "piston" compress spring system similar to Saitek's, Tm. X and Warthog (although more "sophisticated in this).

 

I think the T16000 is a good stick however the grip is really limited for buttons. I like my two hats and two triggers. But this stick works for me.

 

I use the Phantom hawk grip and nothing else. My stick is a hodge podge of bodge. That I like to show off whenever I can :joystick:

 

Its an experiment with a springless joystick. It's a proof of concept so it's not pretty. I asked you about force feedback sticks before, though you probably don't remember. This was why. And yes those are rocks, I needed wieght. I think I'll grow some grass in there.

[Sokol1_br]

For springless gimbal a easy option is use automotive/motorcycle U-Joint.

 

If get one without holes in + ends, attach (Epoxi putty) aluminum levers in this way - for support magnets:

 

Edited August 22, 2016 by Sokol1_br

[Braeden108]

Thanks, I'll keep that in mind. Maybe I'll head to a junkyard and pick one up.

[Rogue Trooper]

Did you see this second short beep with the joysticks circuit in place and also did you see it on multiple switches?

 

if so it is a capacitor or an anti spike diode which can cause these abnormalities... especially if it is perfectly repeatable across different switches... possibly even the IC itself which may also contain capacitors or diodes.

Edited August 23, 2016 by Rogue Trooper

[Braeden108]

Did you see this second short beep with the joysticks circuit in place and also did you see it on multiple switches?

 

if so it is a capacitor or an anti spike diode which can cause these abnormalities... especially if it is perfectly repeatable across different switches... possibly even the IC itself which may also contain capacitors or diodes.

 

Yes, the joysticks board was attached, and the second beep occurred on every switch I tested, and it was always the same time after the first beep and the second always lasted the same amount of time.