New Warthog Question

[davebert]

I am going to try my new Warthog later today and wanted to know if there are any pros or cons to enabling the detent for the afterburner. Somewhere I read something about a ruber part wearing out but I think that was for the resistance of the throttle levers themselves. Just curious how many people leave it stock (unused) as opposed to on (detent enabled). I had been using the X52 Pro and that had an afterburner detent and although I kind of liked it, I am not sure that it is necessary. Does the real Warthog in the real aircraft have the detent??

[Ala12Rv-Tundra]

I am going to try my new Warthog later today and wanted to know if there are any pros or cons to enabling the detent for the afterburner. Somewhere I read something about a ruber part wearing out but I think that was for the resistance of the throttle levers themselves. Just curious how many people leave it stock (unused) as opposed to on (detent enabled). I had been using the X52 Pro and that had an afterburner detent and although I kind of liked it, I am not sure that it is necessary. Does the real Warthog in the real aircraft have the detent??

Real A-10 doesn´t have any afterburner detents... because of no burners :D

I simply switch the part depending on what aircraft Im flying for that particular session.

It takes hardly a minute to change the orientation.

[davebert]

Real A-10 doesn´t have any afterburner detents... because of no burners :D

I simply switch the part depending on what aircraft Im flying for that particular session.

It takes hardly a minute to change the orientation.

 

 

Good point.:thumbup: I didn't think of that because I haven't flown the A-10 much and am setting up for the FA/18.

 

Thanks

[Supmua]

There's a push-through mod (on Thingiverse) for afterburner detent which works really nice since you don't have to lift up throttle over the detent.

[Frederf]

I leave the physical stop in 24/7. If the airplane doesn't have use of a range beyond the stop (e.g.) then I simply make the joystick tuning reach 100% output at the stop.

[davebert]

Thanks guys. I am going to move the stop where it is needed based on the jet I am flying. I am going to check that "push thru mod" out though.

Thanks

[Ala12Rv-Tundra]

Thanks guys. I am going to move the stop where it is needed based on the jet I am flying. I am going to check that "push thru mod" out though.

Thanks

It works great.

[Yeti42]

It's nice to have a push through detent if you fly aircraft with burners, the lift by default is too much to grapple with. I've filed down the detent as per this mod:

 

Works great and means I don't have to keep switching the detents when flying a Hog or an F18.

[davebert]

It's nice to have a push through detent if you fly aircraft with burners, the lift by default is too much to grapple with. I've filed down the detent as per this mod:

 

Works great and means I don't have to keep switching the detents when flying a Hog or an F18.

 

 

I ran across that yesterday when I was searching the net. Also found some printable plastic ones too. I just need to finish setting up my printer. :thumbup:

[Drakoz]

Here are links to the Thingiverse parts for those who have access to a 3D printer. Or you could send these to Shapeways or any other 3D printing company and get one made. Or I suggest just buy from Debolestis at his Shapeways store (https://www.shapeways.com/shops/debolestis). He made a variety of detent replacements for specific aircraft including ramped afterburner notches.

 

I designed and printed my own for various purposes (not for DCS, but for Train Sim World - see here: https://forums.dovetailgames.com/threads/thurstmaster-target-script-for-warthog-throttle-saitek-tq-profile.3634/). Scroll down and you'll see a picture of the various parts I printed. I am pointing this out because the picture of the parts I printed shows just how rough they come out on a common "hobby" 3D printer (I have a MakerGear), and I had to adjust my 3D model to get accurate tolerances on my printer without having to shave and cut a lot on it. These printers are very accurate, but the plastic doesn't always cooperate, and on a small part like this, your results will not be as nice as you would hope. If you want something that is more smooth and much nicer finish, I strongly suggest buying one from Shapeways.

 

I started with this one as a template:

https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1701150

 

 

 

But ended up designing my own completely from scratch. I don't remember if the one above worked, but it is designed to print vertically (as pictured) which actually is not the best way to get a smooth transition on the Afterburner ramp. I printed all mine laying horizontally so the direction of the laid plastic strands was the same direction of travel of the Warthog Throttle lever posts. That way the posts slide on a smooth surface (along the strands) and not over the ridges you get if you print vertically, where you would be pushing over the bumpy strands. You can print the above part horizontally as well.

 

Here is the picture of the ones I did. Note the direction of the plastic strands. Also, these are full travel notches (they provide detents for a variety of lever positions across the entire travel of the Warthog throttle lever). The ramped Afterburner part I did is not pictured here.

 

 

Here are two others in Thingiverse. I have not tried either of these.

 

Ramped AB notch:

https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3163168

 

Original part:

https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3163743

 

A key point I'm getting at here is, if you use a push through AB notch, be aware that it can wear down the pegs that are stopped by the notch (they stick out from the left and right throttle levers down in the cavity where the AB notch goes). If you wear them down too much, repairing it requires replacing the entire lever handle, which is not cheap. So I made sure all my AB notches were as smooth as possible, including making sure the ramped AB notch I did was shallow and required minimal effort to overcome. I also use a _VERY_ small amount of grease on the AB notch ramp. I say very small because there is nothing to prevent the grease from migrating down into the electronics, so it should be a plastic compatible grease, and should just be a very thin smear on the AB notch. Grease is just very thick oil, and oil will eventually flow everywhere given the chance.

[Thermal]

Also fun fact - you dont need to screw the retaining clip in, and you dont need the retaining clip at all.