F16 TQS (not Cougar) Update?

[RustBelt]

Does anyone know if there's any documentation on bringing the Original TQS up to modern standards? I'm guessing a full gut and MMJOY is in order, but wanted to check first if there was any way to salvage what's in there now, or if I should just switch to a microstick in place of the Eraser Nub.

 

Also any Hall mods that work for the original? I think MMJOY can do 12 or 16 bit Pot's but a hall would be preferable. Especially since the pot in there now is pretty old.

[Sokol1_br]

You discard all internal PCB's and that #@$%& "eraserhead" thing. :mad:

Keep the cable coming from grip to base.

 

This device is a pressure mouse (like in some lapttop) working in serial protocol, unless you are code expert and create support for then in e.g. Arduino.

 

OK, Now you have a empty plastic box with switches and potentiometer's installed, and need a new USB controller.

 

Can use commercial products like BU0836, DSD-12... or DIY one with cheap Arduino PRO MICRO (ATMEGA32u4, 16 KHZ, 5v) and MMjoy2 "joystick" firmware.

 

Tor replace "eraserhead" can use a 4/8 way HAT borrowed from old joystick or use a thumb-stick PS4 like, but you need a small one, see in the topic linked bellow.

 

An "modernization" example: https://simhq.com/forum/ubbthreads.php/topics/4324042/f16-flcs-tqs-original-usb-conversion

Edited September 5, 2019 by Sokol1_br

[RustBelt]

I was going to use Dibolestis' Suncom board with a shift register.

https://forums.eagle.ru/showpost.php?p=2937445&postcount=309

 

But the Kbird thread doesn't have anything on the TQS being changed to Hall for the throttle axis.

[Sokol1_br]

Hall sensor like Honeywell SS495A1, Allegro A1324 LUAT... commonly used in DIY, or Bi-Tech 6127 that has advantage of come in potentiometer format, is wired in Arduino like a conventional potentiometer: Signal, Power and Gnd wires.

 

So nothing special to do - just follow Hall datasheet, pins order is different than in potentiometer.

 

IMHO, since TQS has few buttons: 10, shift register is overkill (will need 2 chips), is more easy put one diode 1N4147 in one pin of each button and HAT corner and wire in matrix (row x columns), but of course is perfectly OK use Shift Register.

[RustBelt]

Hall sensor like Honeywell SS495A1, Allegro A1324 LUAT... commonly used in DIY, or Bi-Tech 6127 that has advantage of come in potentiometer format, is wired in Arduino like a conventional potentiometer: Signal, Power and Gnd wires.

 

So nothing special to do - just follow Hall datasheet, pins order is different than in potentiometer.

 

IMHO, since TQS has few buttons: 10, shift register is overkill (will need 2 chips), is more easy put one diode 1N4147 in one pin of each button and HAT corner and wire in matrix (row x columns), but of course is perfectly OK use Shift Register.

 

Shift register allows for more stuff in the base. Like Idle Cutoff and sim controls.

 

I'm starting to see a plan come together here.

[BoraHorza]

This forum is making me want to learn some electronics, got an old TQS and F22 Pro in the attic that may have to come down :)

[Sierra99]

Check this out:

 

https://forums.eagle.ru/showthread.php?t=220916

 

I got the "TM Cougar Throttle standalone USB adapter + digital contacless 14 Bit GMR sensor" and it works flawlessly.

 

The original poster has left but his brother is continuing to make the Kits:

https://forums.eagle.ru/showpost.php?p=4015480&postcount=148

[RustBelt]

Check this out:

 

https://forums.eagle.ru/showthread.php?t=220916

 

I got the "TM Cougar Throttle standalone USB adapter + digital contacless 14 Bit GMR sensor" and it works flawlessly.

 

The original poster has left but his brother is continuing to make the Kits:

https://forums.eagle.ru/showpost.php?p=4015480&postcount=148

 

The F-16 TQS uses the big round older style pots.

[Sokol1_br]

The F-16 TQS uses the big round older style pots.

 

Yes, then get the (Rel4y) CH "pot replacement", pot used in CH's has the same format of the ones used in F-16/F22PRO TQS, both are old CTS pot. :thumbup:

 

See bellow in linked topic.

 

Even the small version (for Cougar TQS) can be adapted, just will be not "plug-n-play".

[Sierra99]

Yes, then get the (Rel4y) CH "pot replacement", pot used in CH's has the same format of the ones used in F-16/F22PRO TQS, both are old CTS pot. :thumbup:

 

See bellow in linked topic.

 

Even the small version (for Cougar TQS) can be adapted, just will be not "plug-n-play".

 

Sokol1_br will these work with a Leo Bodnar Board?

[Sokol1_br]

Yes, they are magnetoresistive KMZ-41, whose output is in analog mode (voltage variation like a pot'), for just connect in CH original (and obsolete) USB controller, or in BU-0836 or other joystick controller.

 

 

TLE55010/11 on contrary, have output in digital mode (binary code), hence require support in controller firmware, like MMJoy2, and is not compatible with BU0836 or most of joystick controllers.

Edited September 15, 2019 by Sokol1_br

[Sierra99]

Yes, they are magnetoresistive KMZ-41, whose output is in analog mode (voltage variation like a pot'), for just connect in CH original (and obsolete) USB controller, or in BU-0836 or other joystick controller.

 

 

TLE55010/11 on contrary, have output in digital mode (binary code), hence require support in controller firmware, like MMJoy2, and is not compatible with BU0836 or most of joystick controllers.

 

Cool Beans...I'll send ya a PM here in a few days...Working on my SFS again...