Thrustmaster Cougar Throttle Schematic

[hawxxer]

Hi guys,

I am currently adapt my Cougar throttle (stick is not existing) to USB. Someone got the schematic for the Cougar Throttle?

My research lead to the post of Uriba but it does not look like this is the correct schematic for me. As you can see from his schematic, he has resistors in it, my PCB only has diode on it, also measuring the resistance does not work out like his schematic.

My PCB looks like this one. But there is another one with more components as it seems? (Did not find a higher resolution, but you can clearly see components in the middle near the big connector)

 

Does someone have the pinout for my Version, or do I missing something?

 

Also I am not sure about the big connector. The connector coming from the handle has 12 rows, while the connector on the PCB only has 11 rows. which side of the connector is not connected? On the picture I linked above (first one), it looks like the missing connection is on the right side but I would say it needs to be on the left side, as the crimb of the cable goes from right to left and the left side is missing two cable positions.

[Terry Dactil]

I converted my Cougar throttle to USB using Leo Bodnar's BU0836 some time ago, so this might help.

 

This is what the base PCB looked like when I traced the connections. Note that there are two unused pins on the big ribbon connector. I seem to remember it was essential to get the offset in the right direction when connecting!

 

 

 

This base PCB was then discarded, and connections made to the BU0836 to provide the USB output.

 

 

At that time I did not have facilities for making PCBs, so the connections were a dogs breakfast on Veroboard.. However , none of this is visible and it works perfectly.

[gholi]

I converted my Cougar throttle to USB using Leo Bodnar's BU0836 some time ago, so this might help.

 

This is what the base PCB looked like when I traced the connections. Note that there are two unused pins on the big ribbon connector. I seem to remember it was essential to get the offset in the right direction when connecting!

[ATTACH]219935[/ATTACH]

 

 

 

This base PCB was then discarded, and connections made to the BU0836 to provide the USB output.

[ATTACH]219936[/ATTACH]

 

 

At that time I did not have facilities for making PCBs, so the connections were a dogs breakfast on Veroboard.. However , none of this is visible and it works perfectly.

 

What about using RS TUSBA R2 directly

I have a brand new TQS and RS TUSBA R2 but I have not had the opportunity to see if it works under Windows 10, as it should

I also have a USB circuit board from Warthog, as I'm not a handyman, so I did not want to try

[Terry Dactil]

What about using RS TUSBA R2 directly

Yes. Great idea if your throttle is still working.

 

Not so great if the original electronics are dead like mine were. :D

[gusandreoni]

I have a problem here in throttle and I am not so aware, in a flight some buttons were patting alone very fast, and after re installing firmware, drivers and etc returned to normal. The cougar is plugged in USB 2.0, without explanation back to normal when I turn on the machine, a Dell inspiron 7500 notebook.

 

I opened the trottle to see if there are any loose cables, but there aren't. The error is intermittent and is currently more in error than not occurring. the buttons that get tight is uhf dogfight and microswitch. This cougar has two years of use.

 

Could it be throttle PCB? I hear it may be the diodes, but do they flash?

 

need help

 

thanks

[lxsapper]

If you want a no hassle drop in solution you have this http://www.realsimulator.com/html/tusba.html.

It is a bit pricey for what it is. But your axes (rotaries and microstick) will work a lot better than when connected to the Cougar joystick, as those axes in the cougar reached their limits before physical limit.

[Gunslinger52]

On 10/26/2019 at 12:35 PM, Terry Dactil said:

I converted my Cougar throttle to USB using Leo Bodnar's BU0836 some time ago, so this might help.

 

This is what the base PCB looked like when I traced the connections. Note that there are two unused pins on the big ribbon connector. I seem to remember it was essential to get the offset in the right direction when connecting!

 

 

 

This base PCB was then discarded, and connections made to the BU0836 to provide the USB output.

 

 

At that time I did not have facilities for making PCBs, so the connections were a dogs breakfast on Veroboard.. However , none of this is visible and it works perfectly.

Hi @Terry Dactil I have a non-functioning RDR- Cursor controller on my Cougar throttle.  I have found a replacement, but it only has 5 pins rather than the original 6.  Do you think It could be made to work somehow?

Thanks

'52

[Terry Dactil]

I suspect that you have only a 4 way switch (left/right/up/down)without a center function. I would expect to see one common pin and a pin for each separate function.

If this is correct, try a search for "5 way tactile switch".  I see there are plenty of these available on Amazon.

[Gunslinger52]

It does have the center push function luckily.

Is it possible that the original had two Common pins?  One for the push, and the other for the pots?

Will try grab a photo of the PCB of the new one.  I'll have to de-solder it in any case, as it's PCB doesn't fit into the original cast housing.  

 

Edited August 30, 2024 by Gunslinger52

[Terry Dactil]

Can you use a multi-meter to check that the center push action actually connects two of the pins. I suspect that the manufacturer might use the same mechanical components for both the 4 and 5 switch versions and only change the pcb and pins. The center push movement would remain but be inoperative. I can't see how you can connect 5 individual switches to work with only 5 wires.

[Gunslinger52]

Thanks Terry, 

Will do that today.  

Meanwhile,  does this help?  It is two pots and one switch. 

Edited August 31, 2024 by Gunslinger52

[Gunslinger52]

Apologies for the diagram!  This is the new one.  Was planning on desoldering it, and gluing to a bit of plastic that fit the throttle,  and soldering the appropriate existing wires to the right pins.   Plausible?

[Terry Dactil]

Replacing the 4 way switch with 2 potentiometers will not be comparable with  the DCS key binds for that control.