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MasterMode - 3-Way Switch


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The problem is, if they put it in the way you want, you need to carefully handle the switches...

A quick example: You switch it to ALT for A/G and leave the switch in down position. Now you activate A/A by use of HOTAS command, the switch remains in ALT (A/G) position, but the master mode is A/A. Now you switch the switch back to center and it recognizes another press of A/G activating A/G, again, yet the switch is in center position (ALT/HDG). Now to go back into NAV mode you can either switch up to A/A mode and back to center, or switch down to deactivate A/G and remember to switch to center, next time you need A/G... sounds horribly complicated and confusing, to me. :dunno:

 

Firstly, you are purposely trying to make it appear complicated, when it's not. Flip the switch down to change the mode to A/G. So far so good. Now you are getting ready to do your bomb-run, when bandits start to threaten you. You activate an A/A missile and your mode automatically jumps to A/A. Switch is still in A/G. Does it matter at this point? No. You do your A/A stuff and kick the baddies in the butt, of course :smilewink: , so now you are ready to resume your bombing mission. You go to your mode switch and discover *gasp* it's already switch downward -- what now, Rhet, what will we do?! {best Janet Lee impression of the decade so far -- Oscar may be mailed to Captain Orso, PO box to be provided} :huh: ummm... so I carefully flip the switch to neutral and then down again and... A/G mode *yea!* :)

 

But anyway feefifofum got me to thinking that whether ED writes the bind or I write it in TARGET, it will always be a work-around for the lack of the compatible button-switches, and then realizing that I have to manually synchronize the engine crank switches and the APU switch and under certain circumstances then also the master mode switch, why not use the simplest work-around at all, and when I flip the On-Off-On switch to activate A/G or A/A mode, simply flip it back to neutral at the same time and then everything is hunky-dory :thumbup:

 

So thanks for all your discussing with me, because you gave me the opportunity to convince myself that I already have the solution at my fingertips :D

When you hit the wrong button on take-off

hwl7xqL.gif

System Specs.

Spoiler
System board: MSI X670E ACE Memory: 64GB DDR5-6000 G.Skill Ripjaw System disk: Crucial P5 M.2 2TB
CPU: AMD Ryzen 7 7800X3D PSU: Corsair HX1200 PSU Monitor: ASUS MG279Q, 27"
CPU cooling: Noctua NH-D15S Graphics card: MSI RTX 3090Ti SuprimX VR: Oculus Rift CV1
 
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My request doesn't brake anything ED hasn't already broke before. Look at the APU Start switch. I've got it mapped to the APU Start switch on my throttle. Works like magic, *flip* and the APU starts. Brilliant.... right engine start.... left engine start... 60 seconds later WTF!! In the cockpit the APU Start switch is suddenly... OFF!! OMFG! an inconsistency, and ED let me walk right into it! HOW DARE THEY! I'm going to inform Greta Thunberg!

 

Ummmm, these are two poor examples -- they work exactly the same way as the AA and A-G currently do: you press a button to activate them. In your (and my, and likely lots of others) case, that button happens to be a forward click of the APU button, but I'm sure there are lots who are using a keystroke or an actual pushbutton. The inconsistency only occurs when you use the binding in a way that it's not designed for (i.e. a switch causing the button push instead of a button causing it).

 

2. I think after paying this kind of price for a program, I ought to be able to expect the program to run on a well known controller with widespread use in the international community, without having implement an additional, foreign software and write my own programs to do so.

 

And in this case why should ED feel obligated to program to ANY input device, and more especially on the F-18 for a throttle designed for the A-10? If you were talking the A-10 then you might have a leg to stand on that they would be well advised to, but even there I'd have a hard time saying they just because you paid "... this kind of price ..." that they would need to.


Edited by rob10
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Firstly, you are purposely trying to make it appear complicated, when it's not. Flip the switch down to change the mode to A/G. So far so good. Now you are getting ready to do your bomb-run, when bandits start to threaten you. You activate an A/A missile and your mode automatically jumps to A/A. Switch is still in A/G. Does it matter at this point? No. You do your A/A stuff and kick the baddies in the butt, of course :smilewink: , so now you are ready to resume your bombing mission. You go to your mode switch and discover *gasp* it's already switch downward -- what now, Rhet, what will we do?! {best Janet Lee impression of the decade so far -- Oscar may be mailed to Captain Orso, PO box to be provided} :huh: ummm... so I carefully flip the switch to neutral and then down again and... A/G mode *yea!* :)

 

But anyway feefifofum got me to thinking that whether ED writes the bind or I write it in TARGET, it will always be a work-around for the lack of the compatible button-switches, and then realizing that I have to manually synchronize the engine crank switches and the APU switch and under certain circumstances then also the master mode switch, why not use the simplest work-around at all, and when I flip the On-Off-On switch to activate A/G or A/A mode, simply flip it back to neutral at the same time and then everything is hunky-dory

 

So thanks for all your discussing with me, because you gave me the opportunity to convince myself that I already have the solution at my fingertips :D

That was what I suggested in my first answer. The easiest solution, like press and release. :)

 

Though, you missed the part in the example, where centering the switch "presses" the A/G button the second time. If as per your request each movement of the switch is recognized as a press of the correlating button, a selection by HOTAS messes the logic up. That was what I meant by "out of sync" and "inconsistent"... I know because my homemade ACP for the A-10 has 3-Way switches that behave the way you requested, and even if I start with the switches not synced to the in-game switch it gets messy. ;)

Shagrat

 

- Flying Sims since 1984 -:pilotfly:

Win 10 | i5 10600K@4.1GHz | 64GB | GeForce RTX 3090 - Asus VG34VQL1B  | TrackIR5 | Simshaker & Jetseat | VPForce Rhino Base & VIRPIL T50 CM2 Stick on 200mm curved extension | VIRPIL T50 CM2 Throttle | VPC Rotor TCS Plus/Apache64 Grip | MFG Crosswind Rudder Pedals | WW Top Gun MIP | a hand made AHCP | 2x Elgato StreamDeck (Buttons galore)

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I'm trying to harmonize the controls with the Harrier as much as possible, and I kind of got hung up on just flipping the switch ... :wacko:

 

Thanks for hangin' on with me for so long. Wouldn't have gotten there without you. Cheers to you good sir :drunk:

When you hit the wrong button on take-off

hwl7xqL.gif

System Specs.

Spoiler
System board: MSI X670E ACE Memory: 64GB DDR5-6000 G.Skill Ripjaw System disk: Crucial P5 M.2 2TB
CPU: AMD Ryzen 7 7800X3D PSU: Corsair HX1200 PSU Monitor: ASUS MG279Q, 27"
CPU cooling: Noctua NH-D15S Graphics card: MSI RTX 3090Ti SuprimX VR: Oculus Rift CV1
 
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