Uuuuaaaah..! I have started building now..!

[soup55]

Hi Triggerhappy,

 

As always I am amazed at the fine job you are doing building your cockpit. You definately got skills! Keep up the good work!

[CyBerkut]

Trigger, have you put any load on that power supply yet? (I'm curious what the voltage went to).

[Triggerhappy69]

A little of both this and that in Pitbuilding..

 

I have made a console with switches and push/toggle buttons for the LOMAC game for almost all the keys it has.

But i have a problem :

For instance : I take off from the airport and i pull down a (on/off) switch that it is for the Gear.

So Gear are inside the doors now.

I go to battle but.....i get killed ....sometimes.

anyway....

when i reload the game i find myself back on the tarmac of the airport and the switch for the Gear to be at the position

Gear Retracted.

I take some time to check every switch and push button to be sure that it is in the correct position BEFORE i take off.

But.........LOMAC game have about 90 keys (conditions)...

my question and my concern is.....

what about Black Shark that it has TOO many switches/buttons etc etc....

thanks in advance

stelios

 

 

Actually your touching an issue of great proportions here my friend..

 

If your goal is to make just a switch panel with switches and pushbuttons to control the functions in the cockpit, then I would use software to emulate that every time a switch is changed (either up or down) it will send a keystroke.

 

This will off course take away your possibility to have all the switches in it's "correct" position at startup, but for a switchpanel that is more for ease-of-use than a scale cockpit I wouldn't bother.. After all it's function before form..!

 

Software like SVMapper for HID Joystick controllers like Loe Bodnars BU-series is just a breeze to set up for anyone.. I didn't even read the "read me" file before I started. And so far it's been a breeze to use it..!

- SVMapper from the Sukhoi forums http://forum.sukhoi.ru

 

 

If your using Opencockpits USB-Keboard Card I would look into SIOC Keyklient software that Oakes made togheter with Zed Gecko. I haven't had a chance to dive into this program yet. But I HAVE read the "read-me" file. And as far as I can see It's a gift from heaven for us that use SIOC and IOCards from Opencockpits..

http://forums.eagle.ru/showthread.php?t=37417

 

ControlMK I didn't even get arround to test with my Bodnar Controllers. I know..! I should have done it, but SVMapper just worked so well for me..

- ControlMK from http://phaseone.sytes.net

 

Any of these sollutions should work in your case.? Because the possition of every switch has no relevance. It will only send a keystroke when you flick it to another possistion.?

 

So even if you have a gear up/down switch ON-OFF type. With indicator lights for gear and warning lights. You can get it to work by just resetting all warning lights and indicator lights at every respawn in SIOC..

 

As far as Blackshark goes I put my trust in all you guys who have a clue how to make 3'rd party software for us pitbuilders.. Because, just like you, I can't really see how we're going to have our pits be fully functional as it is today..? But I have faith..

 

PCB ETCHING MATRIX BOARD FOR BU0836 CONTROLLER

I have found an easy way to make PCB etching by the transfer method much better..!

 

The problem with the transfer method was that I never seemed to be able to make the connection lines thin enough without them being ruined when I removed the Paper with water..

Most of the time there were some residue from the paper that got "burned" into the Copper, and whenever I tried removing it I also destroyed the lines..?

 

So after wasting two matrix cards because they came out with bad or busted connection lines, I got desperate and whipped out my trusty old toothbrush and some abrasive liquid soap..!

 

And as you (again not quite clearly unfortunately) see the end result was just friggin perfect..!

 

And after some time in the etching bath..

 

.. and some more..

 

and even some more.. (remember to have the etcing bath floating in hot water when you do this.. I just forgot this time, and it took forever to get rid off all the copper when the temerature dropped)

 

It came out looking just PERFECT..! YAHOOO::!:thumbup:

 

None of the lines are broken, and all I need to do now is some drilling and a whole lot of soldering.. Yawn..

.. And yes I did not pre-drill the holes on this one before etching it out.. The reason is that I have had some difficuties with the carbide drill "wandering" when I made the other PCB's. And I have an idea that since the tranfer was so perfect, the copper will act as a guide for the 0,4mm carbide drill..? I'll let you know how it goes (if it's a sucsess.... If I fail miserably again, I'll just ignore it and never mention this again:cry:)

 

Ps. I have'nt forgotten your PM Stelios.. I just ... Oh bugger.. I might have forgotten it a little after all..:doh: But I will get right on it..

[Triggerhappy69]

Hello TriggerHappy

 

Just wanted to salute your work from one pitbuilder to another :thumbup:

Well done and keep at it

I should get Blackshark any day now (waiting for the boxed release)

...

Cheers

 

Red Dog

 

Red Dog..? THE RED DOG..!?

 

I'll be honest and admitt letting out a "Woohoo!!" when I read this.. This is really such a compliment, and specially coming from YOU.!

 

I've been following your building since 2005, or perhaps even before that. Always in awe over what you make..! If it had'nt been for your building thread that always seem to make the impossible seem easy. I know I wouldn't have embarked on this pitbuilding adventure at all..!

My hat goes off for you..

 

Are you planning on a KA-50 Pit now? I thought you had your hands full with the F-16 and F-104 pits.? Let me know if I can return the help you've invoulentary given me..!

 

Check out Red Dog's Pitbuilding thread at Viperipits.org: http://www.viperpits.org/smf/index.php?topic=537.975

 

You have a bold approach to your building man.. Nothing seems to be to complicated for you. And that's been such a good inspiration whenever I have been bangin' my head against the wall.. Thank you..!

 

 

..Your progress reports on your F-16 Cockpit...

..Simpits website that just puts everything into order, and let's you know how it SHOULD look and work....

..Killn's CAD plans that actually got me started learing 3D construction!

..and Keane's insane all metal cockpit to drool over.. (I don't even know if he's still building? Is he?)

 

Your all gems..! And I love you all.. In a masculine non-gay way naturally..!:megalol:

 

Ps. Everyone should check out Viperpits.org forum.. It's just crammed with relevant info on.. well... EVERYTHING you need to know in pitbuidling..

[Triggerhappy69]

Trigger, have you put any load on that power supply yet? (I'm curious what the voltage went to).

 

 

Weeeell....? It 'kinda went in the wastebin..! I have no clue why the transformator gave me this crazy readings, so after reading everything I could find online regarding transformators, rectifiers, and capacitators(..and there's a LOT of crap to be read out there on those subjects..).

 

And calling anyone I know that could have an answer why this occured..

 

I finally did some 1'st grade math and decided that three times 3A is 9A..! My stepper motors are 3 Amps each..

 

So I went on E-Bay and got me a 24V switched power supply that delivers 10Amps instead..

 

The CnC mill is not really a project for anything other then having a tool to make panels with, and it was holding me up in the pitbuilding.. :huh:

 

.. however it still bugs me not being able to even get some idea of what was wrong..! Aaaaaargh.. I'll just say the transformator was busted..!

 

..That's my story, and I'm stickin' to it..!:music_whistling:

[Triggerhappy69]

Hi Triggerhappy,

 

As always I am amazed at the fine job you are doing building your cockpit. You definately got skills! Keep up the good work!

 

Thanx man..

 

I really appreciate hearing that.. Because at times it's sooo easy to think "this is NEVER going to work".!

 

And then comes someone with your caracter and delivers the motivation again...

[CyBerkut]

Weeeell....? It 'kinda went in the wastebin..!

 

{snip}

 

I finally did some 1'st grade math and decided that three times 3A is 9A..! My stepper motors are 3 Amps each..

 

So I went on E-Bay and got me a 24V switched power supply that delivers 10Amps instead..

 

The CnC mill is not really a project for anything other then having a tool to make panels with, and it was holding me up in the pitbuilding.. :huh:

 

.. however it still bugs me not being able to even get some idea of what was wrong..! Aaaaaargh.. I'll just say the transformator was busted..!

 

..That's my story, and I'm stickin' to it..!:music_whistling:

 

I can't say that I blame you. (Hell, I always go with commercially produced power supplies for anything I put together!)

 

It still may be though that your discarded power supply project would actually deliver the desired voltage under load. But I wouldn't test it by hooking it up to the mill, that's for sure!

[dlihcerog]

Great work

 

Its realy nice to see that im not the only crazy Norwegian in here.

And to find someone who does such splendid work too. :thumbup:

Have you cosidered manufacturing a few panels for sale (minus the electronics)?

If so you got a customer for anything you make here

 

Keep up the exelent work.

 

ps, i can setup a free ftp or web server for any files that needs sharing, that way i can justify my new 50Mbit fiber a bitfor the misses. Also got about 2TB of unused space on the server.

[Triggerhappy69]

Its realy nice to see that im not the only crazy Norwegian in here.

And to find someone who does such splendid work too. :thumbup:

Have you cosidered manufacturing a few panels for sale (minus the electronics)?

If so you got a customer for anything you make here

 

Keep up the exelent work.

 

ps, i can setup a free ftp or web server for any files that needs sharing, that way i can justify my new 50Mbit fiber a bitfor the misses. Also got about 2TB of unused space on the server.

 

 

Alltid hyggelig med en landsmann her .. :thumbup:

 

I haven't given it much thought yet, but it has crossed my mind..

 

Let me get the CnC up and running, and make the first panels. And then I can get back to you on this?

[Triggerhappy69]

Pitbuilding update 29. march 2009 - Trigger mechanisms launch trigger is finished

 

This has been the single most mind bending task so far.. And I haven't even really begun on the Cannon triggers return spring yet.

 

But as far as I hope, the worst is done on the Cyclic Stick's Trigger Mechanism. And here's how I think it will work..:music_whistling:

 

1: A switch with a spring cut to correct length with pliers. The switch is attached mainly by the soldering legs that go through the 3mm aluminum backplate (wires and crimp-screen comes later to prevent short circuit)

 

2: this plate is 0,5mm Aluminum in a 90 degree angle. The plate pivots around the main axle of the triggers. And it's job is to evenly apply the preasure from the return spring (4) to the microswitch (3-Cannon Select ON-OFF) that is mounted underneath.

 

3: A tiny microswitch that when released will send the keystroke "C" to the simulator.

 

4: Coil spring that returns the Launch Trigger when it's not in use.

 

 

Here you see the Microswitch for Select Cannon and the Launch Triggers return spring. Also you can see why I needed a pivoting plate to distribute the force from the spring to the switch. Without the plate the spring moved to much and fell of the switch all the time. (and it looks cooler with the plate too)

 

 

Seee... MUCH COOLER..!

 

 

I also put a stoppr for the Launch Trigger on. So it will not return to a position higher than my fingers can grab it..!

 

 

... and I have just started on the Cannon Trigger. I used epoxy putty to mold a solid part for the hinge.. More on that later.

 

 

The plate is springloaded from the return spring. But the load is not high enough to press it. Not before you pull the Launch Trigger down! I'm using a BU0836 Controller Card on the Cyclics buttons. And with SVMapper I can configure it so that when the switch is released, it will send the Key "C" to the Sim. and when it's pressed another key "C" is sendt..

 

 

The point where the Launch trigger is activated.

 

 

 

 

 

.. just another picture..

 

I also modified the Push Buttons to hold microswitches. They looked the part, but to activate them I had to press them 8-10mm in! And that just will not work..

 

 

Here you see basicly the whole modification.. It was quite simple once I found out what I wanted to do.. Just a bit of sandpaper and a pair of pliers, and it was done.. Now they have the right "CLICK" feel to them..

 

.. but they still look good..!

Edited March 29, 2009 by Triggerhappy69
Better Pictures

[stelios2000]

Actually your touching an issue of great proportions here my friend..

 

If your goal is to make just a switch panel with switches and pushbuttons to control the functions in the cockpit, then I would use software to emulate that every time a switch is changed (either up or down) it will send a keystroke.

 

This will off course take away your possibility to have all the switches in it's "correct" position at startup, but for a switchpanel that is more for ease-of-use than a scale cockpit I wouldn't bother.. After all it's function before form..!

 

Software like SVMapper for HID Joystick controllers like Loe Bodnars BU-series is just a breeze to set up for anyone.. I didn't even read the "read me" file before I started. And so far it's been a breeze to use it..!

- SVMapper from the Sukhoi forums http://forum.sukhoi.ru

 

 

If your using Opencockpits USB-Keboard Card I would look into SIOC Keyklient software that Oakes made togheter with Zed Gecko. I haven't had a chance to dive into this program yet. But I HAVE read the "read-me" file. And as far as I can see It's a gift from heaven for us that use SIOC and IOCards from Opencockpits..

http://forums.eagle.ru/showthread.php?t=37417

 

ControlMK I didn't even get arround to test with my Bodnar Controllers. I know..! I should have done it, but SVMapper just worked so well for me..

- ControlMK from http://phaseone.sytes.net

 

Any of these sollutions should work in your case.? Because the possition of every switch has no relevance. It will only send a keystroke when you flick it to another possistion.?

 

So even if you have a gear up/down switch ON-OFF type. With indicator lights for gear and warning lights. You can get it to work by just resetting all warning lights and indicator lights at every respawn in SIOC..

 

As far as Blackshark goes I put my trust in all you guys who have a clue how to make 3'rd party software for us pitbuilders.. Because, just like you, I can't really see how we're going to have our pits be fully functional as it is today..? But I have faith..

 

 

 

Dear Lars,

i dont think you understood what i meant....

probably it is my fault i havent described it well (my bad english)

anyway

What i meant is....that NOW i have a console with all the keys of the LOMAC in switches and pushbuttons.

What i want to do (and i WILL) is a pit like yours......

Not as accurate as yours but -i want to believe- close to yours.

so i want to know how you are going to make all these switches to return to

their correct position after a crash landing for instance.

I have see some switches like magnetic ones that with right polarity can be returned by themselves back.

But i have heard their prices about $65 each.

Insane amount if you can say that you will use them in every switch in B.S.

please see this about magnetic switch

I already bought(4 months ago) almost ALL the cards from the opencockpits.

so i want to ask again

how are you gonna face this problem with the switches ?

thanks again for your time

stelios

Ps awesome work as always

[Triggerhappy69]

Dear Lars,

i dont think you understood what i meant....

probably it is my fault i havent described it well (my bad english)

anyway

What i meant is....that NOW i have a console with all the keys of the LOMAC in switches and pushbuttons.

What i want to do (and i WILL) is a pit like yours......

Not as accurate as yours but -i want to believe- close to yours.

so i want to know how you are going to make all these switches to return to

their correct position after a crash landing for instance.

I have see some switches like magnetic ones that with right polarity can be returned by themselves back.

But i have heard their prices about $65 each.

Insane amount if you can say that you will use them in every switch in B.S.

please see this about magnetic switch

I already bought(4 months ago) almost ALL the cards from the opencockpits.

so i want to ask again

how are you gonna face this problem with the switches ?

thanks again for your time

stelios

Ps awesome work as always

 

Hi Stelios.

 

As far as I know, there is no way arround this issue in flightsim cockpits...? We will have to reset all the switches to it's correct position after a crash!

 

You're quite right about the possibilty of using magnetic switches, but they are both complex to build, expencive to buy AND complicated to set up as well..!:cry:

 

I can only speak for myself, but I will have to reset manually all the switches in my cockpit before respawning in the simulator..

 

.. but hey... that has it's charm..? doesn't it?

[Chibawang]

I've been wondering about this as well. I know that in Falcon, there is a way to modify each command to have a key press for each state of every switch. That way if a switch was in the wrong position it wouldn't matter. For instance: you crash with the landing gear up and respawn on the tarmac with gear down. If you move the switch to the down position it will send the "Gear down" command, but since it is already in the down position the command will have no effect.

 

This way at least things don't get out of synch if you forget to reset a switch, but of course it's still good procedure to go through a checklist to reset all switches before take off, just like real pilots do in pre flight. I don't think this can be done in DCS currently, however. So preflight checks would be even more important.

 

This is why I really, really hope they implement an option to start each mission on the ramp, cold and dark."

[Sokol1_br]

A small doubt. When the trigger is lowered he lock in down positon?

 

 

I say like this one in this video (~0:15s):

 

 

Sokol1_Br

[Triggerhappy69]

.. close shave's and Pitbuilding Kaakaa's

 

A small doubt. When the trigger is lowered he lock in down positon?

 

 

I say like this one in this video (~0:15s):

 

 

Sokol1_Br

 

 

YES IT WILL :thumbup:..!

 

 

.. well.. the version you see on the picture does not lock in it's "down" position. because I just got so carried away with building it that I ... eeeeh... forgot..!?

 

This is another of my "and I think I'm all that eh?" moments..:doh:

 

 

I have had at least a thousand different designs of the Trigger Mechanics twirling arroound in my head for a year now.. But none of them seemed like they would be any good. They were either to complex to make by any DIY'er with hand tools (and that is the core of everything I make), or they would just simply not look like the real part..!

 

So one day I was feeling lucky and motivated by you guys. (you all ROCK at motivating me.. I can't remeber exactly if I'm right but the Trigger Mech I dedicate to my friend Soup55 and RedDog)

 

And being feeble minded and i bit "wandering" in my head at times, I got so carried away in feeling good about me that I bl**dy well just bl**din forgot to check the manual.. Nice goin' there Trigger..!? That'll show them how to do it..! LMAO:cry:

 

If it had'nt been for CyBerkut sending me a PM the other day asking politely: "If I understand your pictures, etc. though, it appears that your trigger setup is working differently than what the manual describes.", I would have NEVER noticed this.. I am after all quite narcissistic..!

 

BUT MAN WAS HE RIGHT..!?

 

CyBerkut... not only did you save me from obvious embarresment when I used the stick first time. And AGAIN when I had to write a "pitbuilding dementi" on the forum.. But you also made me laugh my *ss off.. Thank you!

 

Ps. Being a Norwegian I'm used to being more direct.. I'd probably say " dude.. you just left another of your pitbuilding kaakaa's on the forum.. Come clean it up please? And bring the DCS/BS manual regarding Launch trigger function.. Thank you"

.. but then again we're simple people up here.. :megalol:

 

So Sokol1, I owe you and CyBerkut for cleaning up after me this time..

 

I have found a simple sollution that will fix this design flaw permanently. And after some initial testing it seems to be working like a charm..!

Also it will incorperate the use of magnets and a blade-spring type thingie to the Trigger Mechanism!

But you'll have to wait till next time I post to see... maybe later tonight..?

[CyBerkut]

Hehehe... happy to help out! I took the less blunt approach in part because I felt it was prudent to allow for the possibility that I might be wrong. I know, I know... it hardly seems possible, but it does happen occassionally. :lol:

[Triggerhappy69]

Ka-50 Pitbuilding update - Trigger Mechanism Finished and wired up..!

 

Here's the sollution I came up with!

 

A simple piece of 0,5mm aluminum acts as a blade spring. And the Launch trigger is held in place by one magnet on the blade spring, and another imbedded into the Launch trigger..!

 

It holds everything in place, and I have no difficulty flickin' it up when I want Cannon to be active..

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Some fingerwork for your referance.. Finger on Cannon trigger (lower part is under development still):

 

Pulling the Launch trigger is withing reach. Even for my small fingers:

 

 

Launch Trigger active:

 

And flickin' it back up to activate Cannon again:

 

 

The Cannon Trigger switch is placed so that it's fires at a lower position than the Launch trigger. Just to be safe..

 

Now what remains for me is to finish connecting the switches on the Cyclic, and counter balance the Force Feedback mechanism with all the electronics installed..

 

And then I'll post my first video EVER..!

[Swetrekki]

good job (as usual)

[HitchHikingFlatlander]

Cool progress look forward to the video!

[stelios2000]

great

[soup55]

Nice work! Video will be interesting!

[HitchHikingFlatlander]

:joystick:Wheres that vid dont hold out on us!:pilotfly::smilewink:

[Triggerhappy69]

... He He.. Hold your horses there mate..!

 

I still have a little work to do before I make the vidz..

 

This is as far as I've gotten:

 

 

[soup55]

Damn! That last pic of your stick looks fine! I'm definately jealous! Vid should be great! Keep up the great work Triggerhappy. You work helps to inspire me, and, I'm sure everyone else following this thread. What a great hobby!!

[Triggerhappy69]

Damn! That last pic of your stick looks fine! I'm definately jealous! Vid should be great! Keep up the great work Triggerhappy. You work helps to inspire me, and, I'm sure everyone else following this thread. What a great hobby!!

 

 

Thanx Soup55..!

 

The Cyclic Stick extension needed a wheel brake handle. So I used an old Clutch Hadle from a motorbike.. Naturally I'll have to paint it black, and fabricate the clamp to mount it on..!

 

A piece of the same pipe I used for the extension was utilized as a mold on the Sidewinder FFB2 USB gimbal. I filled it up with epoxy resin, and removed it just as it had started to set.. And Voila.. A perfect fitting mount for the extension..

 

And I have started on the Cannon Trigger to..

 

 

 

It will be pulled back with a thin steel wire attached to the small screw at the Cannon Triggers "pointy end"

And I'll cut it and sand to the correct shape naturally..!