hannibal Posted January 19, 2009 Posted January 19, 2009 Thank you for you kind words. At this point I do not have any collective brake, I'm thinking of doing it the Trigger way (with a hydraulic cylinder). Btw, Trigger, where did you get that cylinder + the solenoid? /Oakes so, basically the way your collective would works is. by pulling the collective do a desired height, and then apply some kind of break mechanism in order to keep the collective handle at the desired position??? so if the break mechanism was not applied, then the handle would just fall to the down most position??? find me on steam! username: Hannibal_A101A http://steamcommunity.com/profiles/76561197969447179
Triggerhappy69 Posted January 19, 2009 Posted January 19, 2009 (edited) so, basically the way your collective would works is. by pulling the collective do a desired height, and then apply some kind of break mechanism in order to keep the collective handle at the desired position??? so if the break mechanism was not applied, then the handle would just fall to the down most position??? It also gives the autopilot a new zero point when you release the collective brake.. Edited January 19, 2009 by Triggerhappy69 "But (504)Brewber said they were'nt friendly.. So I took'em out.!" [sIGPIC][/sIGPIC]
Oakes Posted January 19, 2009 Author Posted January 19, 2009 so, basically the way your collective would works is. by pulling the collective do a desired height, and then apply some kind of break mechanism in order to keep the collective handle at the desired position??? so if the break mechanism was not applied, then the handle would just fall to the down most position??? No brake at this time, the collective has a counter-weight on the back end so its roughly balanced on its pivot axle. Then the internal friction in the small dampener (red cylinder) takes care of the rest. I've found thought that when you concentrate on the sensors etc it is quite easy push/pull the collective and end up in the ground etc so I'll try to implement a brake system "Trigger Style" /Oakes
Oakes Posted January 26, 2009 Author Posted January 26, 2009 After many a night slaving over a hot mill :smilewink: I've decided to take the plunge and go CNC. After some debating with myself whether to retrofit a manual mill, buy/build a gantry type CNC router or simply buy a turnkey CNC mill I decided that I'd rather make stuff on my CNC machine than building stuff for a CNC machine. So I went for the turnkey route and ordered the finished product, a Sieg KX1 CNC mill. http://www.arceurotrade.co.uk/Additional-Departments/Special-Offers/Sieg-KX1-Hobby-CNC-Mill Delivery should be in about two weeks.....and I can't wait:helpsmilie: /Oakes
Triggerhappy69 Posted January 26, 2009 Posted January 26, 2009 (edited) After many a night slaving over a hot mill :smilewink: I've decided to take the plunge and go CNC. After some debating with myself whether to retrofit a manual mill, buy/build a gantry type CNC router or simply buy a turnkey CNC mill I decided that I'd rather make stuff on my CNC machine than building stuff for a CNC machine. So I went for the turnkey route and ordered the finished product, a Sieg KX1 CNC mill. http://www.arceurotrade.co.uk/Additional-Departments/Special-Offers/Sieg-KX1-Hobby-CNC-Mill Delivery should be in about two weeks.....and I can't wait:helpsmilie: /Oakes I envy you..! That is a fiiiine piece of machinery..! I have ordered the capasitators that will complete my DIY CnC mill now.. It should be running by monday if all goes well..:music_whistling: What do you plan on using to do your G-Codes? I started on re-learning G-Code programming, but gave up quickly when it came to the letters.. LoL.. Edited January 26, 2009 by Triggerhappy69 "But (504)Brewber said they were'nt friendly.. So I took'em out.!" [sIGPIC][/sIGPIC]
Oakes Posted January 26, 2009 Author Posted January 26, 2009 Mach3 (which have basic support for importing DXF files). There are a bunch of wizards in Mach3 which allows you do to quite a lot of stuff without a CAM package. /Oakes
Triggerhappy69 Posted January 26, 2009 Posted January 26, 2009 Mach3 (which have basic support for importing DXF files). There are a bunch of wizards in Mach3 which allows you do to quite a lot of stuff without a CAM package. /Oakes Same here.. Mach3 is really the most adaptable and "simple" software available in my oppinion..! I have LazyCAM with Mach3, but I still seem to use SolidCAM more (allthough it's a B*TCH before you get used to it..):cry: "But (504)Brewber said they were'nt friendly.. So I took'em out.!" [sIGPIC][/sIGPIC]
Takeoff-For-Fun Posted January 27, 2009 Posted January 27, 2009 (edited) I use Mach3, too. Right now I´m drawing the panels using coreldraw. I hope the export to HPGL or DXF will work fine! Maybe I should better try Autocad? :unsure: My friend and I have build these two "toys". :smilewink: Ready to use: Will be finished in a few weeks: Both are controlled by two LPT-Ports and Mach3. Edited January 27, 2009 by Takeoff-For-Fun
soup55 Posted February 1, 2009 Posted February 1, 2009 Hi Oakes, I to am in awe of your work! :notworthy: I hope you continue to keep us informed on the progession of your (project) cockpit. Good stuff!:thumbup: [sIGPIC][/sIGPIC] SOUP55:matrix:
Oakes Posted February 2, 2009 Author Posted February 2, 2009 Hi Oakes, I to am in awe of your work! :notworthy: I hope you continue to keep us informed on the progression of your (project) cockpit. Good stuff!:thumbup: Right now I'm waiting for the CNC machine to be shipped, I hope to have it here by the middle of next week (Feb 12 or so). I've spent the weekend looking at/learning different CAM (CAD I got) programs to make the panels. Next panel will be the datalink I think. Plan is to have the CNC make the buttons, panel cutouts etc. I've been using GLKD2 (search on ebay) momentary pushbuttons for the buttons and glued on custom acrylic tops. With the CNC I can make the bottom of the custom acrylic tops fit the top of the GLKD2's without messing around with glues etc + the CNC can easily make the square mounting holes for the GLKD2's in the panel + of course engrave the text on the acrylic tops. /Oakes
Triggerhappy69 Posted February 24, 2009 Posted February 24, 2009 I've been using GLKD2 (search on ebay) momentary pushbuttons for the buttons and glued on custom acrylic tops. With the CNC I can make the bottom of the custom acrylic tops fit the top of the GLKD2's without messing around with glues etc + the CNC can easily make the square mounting holes for the GLKD2's in the panel + of course engrave the text on the acrylic tops. /Oakes I am using the same buttons myself.. But I didn't get any info in the LED's embedded in the buttons? (How many Volts and mA's) Do you have this? "But (504)Brewber said they were'nt friendly.. So I took'em out.!" [sIGPIC][/sIGPIC]
Oakes Posted February 25, 2009 Author Posted February 25, 2009 (edited) Yes, same buttons. V and A, no idea I'm afraid, I replaced the LEDS with green and yellow ones bought from ELFA. /Oakes Edited February 25, 2009 by Oakes
Oakes Posted February 25, 2009 Author Posted February 25, 2009 CNC has arrived. Some pictures + a small video below. More to come...... Mr Mill next to Ms Lathe :-) Video showing the engraving of a button top. The final result of the test. /Oakes 1
Triggerhappy69 Posted February 25, 2009 Posted February 25, 2009 Eeehh.! 'Wanna do a trade mate? Nothing major.. just making all the panels for my pit.. If you feel like it.? LoL "But (504)Brewber said they were'nt friendly.. So I took'em out.!" [sIGPIC][/sIGPIC]
Swetrekki Posted March 3, 2009 Posted March 3, 2009 veeeeeeeery nice cuts indeed. mighty jealous :) // Swetrekki
soup55 Posted March 4, 2009 Posted March 4, 2009 Looking gooOOoood!! Also very jealous! :thumbup: [sIGPIC][/sIGPIC] SOUP55:matrix:
Oakes Posted March 13, 2009 Author Posted March 13, 2009 A little update (warning lots of pictures below) Guess which panels this is? First person to guess correctly gets a free color-radio:) Let's start by making some miniature hockey pucks.... Next we square the vice to the table.... Now we're ready to cut the square button top... Top is done... Then we flip the button over and setup for cutting the bottom part.. Ok, outer part of the button bottom is cut...now we cut the center. Bottom is done, including the slot for the LED... Testing that the buttontop fits the on the actual switch.. Four button tops almost done... Cut the slot for the acrylic insert... Acrylic slot done... Cutting the acrylic inserts, the acrylic is attached to the table wiht doublesided tape, works like a charm. The reslut... To be continued......... Next step is to engrave the text, fill the engraving with white paint and then plane the top with a flycutter. /Oakes
blaster454 Posted March 13, 2009 Posted March 13, 2009 Many thanks, Oakes. This is a fascinating process and one I've always wanted to do. Unfortunately, I am as far from mechanically gifted as it is possible to get :cry:. I really appreciate the opportunity to see a master at work :thumbup: WH_Blaster (Larry) :beer: US Air Force (Retired, 1961-1981) Join us for fun with the DCS series and other games at the War Hawks Squad website ... we are a mature gaming group that enjoys realism and having fun! http://war-hawks.net System: i7=950 @ 3.3 GHz, GA-X58-UDR3 MB, 6GB RAM, GTX770, 256GB system SSD, 128GB gaming SSD, TIR5, TM HOTAS WH, HannsG 28-in, Acer 23-in touch screen.
Swetrekki Posted March 13, 2009 Posted March 13, 2009 iiiiihhh mind that xy table when milling the clear acrylic, put a piece of "masonite" (i think it is a brand name so it might be correct in english to) between the clear acrylic and the xy table. the shop teacher freaked out pretty good when we "forgot" to use a sacrifisial board, back in school ;)
Oakes Posted March 15, 2009 Author Posted March 15, 2009 Datalink panel!! Woohoo! :thumbup: iiiiihhh mind that xy table when milling the clear acrylic, put a piece of "masonite" (i think it is a brand name so it might be correct in english to) between the clear acrylic and the xy table. the shop teacher freaked out pretty good when we "forgot" to use a sacrificial board, back in school ;) Nah, the tape is about 0.1 mm thick, the z axle has about 0.01mm resolution/repeatability so what I do is cut about 0.05mm below the bottom of the acrylic, basically, the tape is the sacrificial material. Of course if something goes wrong with the CNC steppers/electronics/control etc then there will be a nasty ding in the table but then again 5 mm of masonite is not going to stop a runaway Z-axle anyway. For the manual mill I usually use a sacrificial board, especially when drilling. /Oakes
Smoky Posted March 21, 2009 Posted March 21, 2009 I will post the script + instructions etc in a little while. I need to document some stuff + clean up the code etc before I do that though. /Oakes Looking forward to checking out your script. I'd like to see what the scripting language is like before I dive in.
Oakes Posted March 23, 2009 Author Posted March 23, 2009 Looking forward to checking out your script. I'd like to see what the scripting language is like before I dive in. See http://forums.eagle.ru/showthread.php?t=37417 /Oakes
Oakes Posted March 23, 2009 Author Posted March 23, 2009 New video, cutting the buttonholder on the CNC /Oakes
Recommended Posts