Cold Start - Engine Crank (L&R) won't hold their position

[Vitamin_J94]

I'm well practiced in the cold start procedure and have no issues when using the mouse to crank the engines. However, when I bind them to anything (I have tried several different 3 position switches on a variety of HID controllers) they only stay in position for a fraction of a second. 

I have:

1. Cleared all bindings to eliminate conflict
2. Mapped & removed the Center Off position - read that may be an issue
3. Tried both Cycle and Standard 

No joy. Anything I'm missing?

[Hulkbust44]

Are you testing this after the APU is powered up?

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[Vitamin_J94]

49 minutes ago, Hulkbust44 said:

Are you testing this after the APU is powered up?

Sent from my moto g stylus 5G (2022) using Tapatalk
 

Yes. Procedure works fine with a mouse click, per the above.

[LeCuvier]

16 hours ago, Vitamin_J94 said:

...However, when I bind them to anything (I have tried several different 3 position switches on a variety of HID controllers) they only stay in position for a fraction of a second. ...

For a test, I bound the "Engine Crank Switch - Left" and "Engine Crank Switch - Right" ( not the "Cycle" commands), plus the OFF position to a pushbutton each and tried 3 scenarios:
1. Everything cold, just pushing the two buttons for left and right momentarily.
    The switch stays left or right only as long as I hold the button down. As expected
2. Everything cold, except Battery ON, using the 3 bound buttons:
    Briefly pushing the Right button, the right crank switch goes to ON and holds forever.
    Briefly pushing the OFF button sets the switch to the (center) OFF position.
    Briefly pushing the Left button, the left crank switch goes to ON and holds forever.
3. Running the training mission for Cold Start until both engines are fully started and the APU goes OFF:
    Used mouse clicks for all steps except for the Engine Crank switch where I used the bound pushbuttons.
    Everythings works as expected, including the crank switch holding in R or L position as it should.

In conclusion, the crank switch works as expected. It's electro/mechanically held in the L or R position as long as necessary.
Battery ON is the only prerequisite for holding the switch in L or R position at start-up.
Note: Once the engines are fully operational, the switch no longer holds in L or R. I did not test at what point this interlock kicks in.

So it would appear that the issue is not in the ED software but in your setup. I suppose you verified that your switches work with other commands?
Note: I did not try what happens if I use a 3-position switch that stays in the L or R position. You should probably use something that provides just momentary contact closure.

Edited January 29 by LeCuvier

[Vitamin_J94]

Thank you for the thoughtful reply. Yes. I am using a three position switch (tested two) and the hold they're position for other bindings like STROBE and DISPENSER. BAT is set to ON.

I'm going to go through it all again this weekend. The hardware checks out. 

[LeCuvier]

3 hours ago, Vitamin_J94 said:

...Yes. I am using a three position switch (tested two) and the hold they're position ...

3-position switch should be OK. I don't have one available but I tested by just holding the L or R pushbutton down.
However, you should remember to set the switch to OFF position when the engines are up and running. Else, the crank switch in the cockpit will stay in the L position forever. This might not do any harm as the cranking is done with bleed air from the APU, and the APU shuts down when the engines are operational; but it certainly doesn't look right.

[Hulkbust44]

3-position switch should be OK. I don't have one available but I tested by just holding the L or R pushbutton down.
However, you should remember to set the switch to OFF position when the engines are up and running. Else, the crank switch in the cockpit will stay in the L position forever. This might not do any harm as the cranking is done with bleed air from the APU, and the APU shuts down when the engines are operational; but it certainly doesn't look right.

Realistically that would shear the PTS as you are keeping the clutch engaged

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[LeCuvier]

53 minutes ago, Hulkbust44 said:

Realistically that would shear the PTS as you are keeping the clutch engaged

And what, please, is the PTS?
Found it: Power Transmission Shaft.

Edited January 30 by LeCuvier