3D printed panels.

[Aronis]

I bought a 3D printer last week with the hopes of making decent panels.  There is a learning curve on the software and the device. I started this project last week (Sunday) and worked at learning the software. I am using FreeCad because, you know, its free.  I got a Bambu Labs X1C with the AMS (multi color) and started actual prints on Friday afternoon after unboxing and setting it up.

LSS here is my CMDS panel. I will re-do with clear filament but that has its own learning curve. You have to dry the spool of filament for 8 hours first LOL.

 

 

[Aronis]

nullBottom plate

 

nullTop Plate

nullTop Plate with letters cut out

nulltext fill in object, holes in O and R need one more element.

nullHoles Filled.

 

[Aronis]

nullTwo things I learned, which turned out to be key.  1. pick the best font, wide BOLD font (Arial Bold) and 2. print the letters First then the black.

Goal is to print with Clear Filament with the first slice using the green filament and see if it is translucent enough.

But without back lighting I think it's good enough.  I did not design all the graphics into it. I have yet to figure out that one as it requires more tedious work to draw the graphics. I have a draft done, but did not implement it last night.

 

Mike

[Hempstead]

1. You could get the surface almost perfect by ironing the top..... the parameters require a bit tweaking (mine are listed below).

2. I would suggest not print the text. I found the best result is to laser the text/graphics, and then paint with Acrylic paint. It is possible to print with multiple color and the laser to expose the underlying layer but that is quite wasteful with printers like Bambu. Check out this page, https://blog.hempstick.org/2024/05/icp-letter-painting-dobber-analog-wheel.html

Of course, the disadvantage is that you need a laser engraver. Common doide laser doesn't work well with clear PLA, but works well with colored PLA, particularly works very well with black matte PLA.

 

Bambu X1C, try the following parameters for PLA Matte, 0.2mm Strength @BBL X1C profile.

Ironing Type : Top Surfaces

Ironing flow : 15%

Ironing line spacing: 0.1mm

(the rest stay with default of the profile)

 

Sparse infill density : 100%

Sparse infill pattern : Rectilinear

You don't have to use 100% infill... but if you are going to laser engrave deep for white paint... it could easily poke through the top layers, and into the void... Plus, with panels... you aren't saving too much filaments nor time by using 25% infill.

 

PS. Ironing takes a loooooooong time... but trust me, it's worth it.

Edited March 16 by Hempstead

[Aronis]

method for making panel

I used FreeCad.

Start with new project.   If there are errors here I apologize. I did not take notes as I went until NOW, after messing around with several different techniques. I am sure there are other ways to get to where I ended up.

in Part Design WB, Create Body (Body001)

the same WB, Create Sketch, (Sketch001) start with panel first sketch for basic panel shape including location of any holes you want to great, then use Pad to make the panel and choose the thickness, I used 3 mm.  The location of the holes in the sketch will be needed to reference when you make the next panel so they line up. More on that later (you can copy the sketch and make a new sketch from it)

 

As you go you can rename the different items such as change PAD001 to “Top Panel” or similar to keep track.  In this I keep it as PAD001 for reference below.

 

In Draft WB create the ShapeStrings for the text, each word or letter needs its own ShapeString and you need to choose the size of the text and the proper font, and then located them on in spots references by your Sketch.  Leave the Sketch001 turned on so you can see where stuff will go..

 

I tried ‘grouping’ the Shapestrings but have to revisit that, I just leave them in the Tree where the are and reference them. You will need to reference them several times and if you want to change the Shapestrings for Font or Size you have to start over from the step below (adding graphic cutouts).

 

 

Now make a simple copy of the first Pad001 (will be at bottom of tree) and will be called PAD002.

 

Change to Part Design WB, click on the new Pad002 to highlight it, then use “Create Body” and a body will be made using this PAD002, with in Body002 there will be “BaseFeature” which is the new panel you can work on more.

 

Change to Part WB, so you can add Fillets to the edges of the Panel.  Make Body002 the Active Body by right clicking and checking the box “Active Body”

 

Highlight “BaseFeature” by clicking on it, then hit the Fillet button on toolbar.  Choose the edges you want to Fillet, pick first, hold Command key, then once they are all highlighted (green color usually), click ok.

 

(large tree’s will make calculations take time so wait it out)

 

This will create “Fillet001” at bottom of Tree.  You can rename if you want.

 

Next to add the Text (ShapeStrings)

 

Go back up to the location in the Tree where your ShapeStrings are, click the first, hold Command and  click the rest. enter Draft WB, select each of the graphics (click first, hold Command (CTRL on Windows) and click each Shapestring, and use “Draft to Sketch” command to make Sketch with graphics, will be at bottom of tree, call Sketch002.

 

Change to Part Design WB, highlight the “Fillet001” and use “Create Body” command and a new body will be made from the Fillet with a “BaseFeature”

 

Change to Part WB, and drag the Sketch002 onto the “BaseFeature” and that sketch will become associate with that body.

Change to the Part Design WB,  make sure that “Body” is the “Active Body” and then highlight the Sketch by clicking on it, then use the “Pocket Command” and the Text will be cut into the panel and that will be called “Pocket001.”

 

Now go back and make you Bottom Panel as above.

BUT you will need to TRANSFORM the new plate and adjust it’s Z coordinates so the plates sit one on top of the other.

Once you have two overlapping plates with the holes and text correct, you will need to make the text Fill Ins and then the Holes in the Text Fill ins below.

 

Back to Part Design WB, Create new Body, will be at bottom of tree.

 

Go to Draft WB, select your graphics ShapeStrings, uses Draft to Sketch command again, creates Sketch, will be at bottom of tree.

Go to Part WB, drag sketch onto the Body, will associate the Graphics containing sketch to that new body.

 

Still in Part WB, highlight that new sketch and use the Extrude Command, I chose 6 mm since the two panels are 3 mm thick each, and I want to make the Fill In text 6 mm total.

 

Look on the Edge by rotating you parts and adjust each by using Transform to make sure things line up in the proper Z plane.

 

Next make the fill ins for the text holes. This involves using the Pocket command but pocketing 6 mm into a 7 mm PAD and then Cutting that extra MM off, leaving the Text Hole Fill ins in free space.  This is a bit tricky.

 

Part Design WB, go to top of the tree, high light the main name (otherwise when you do the next step you will get it trying to create a new body with what ever element you have currently highlighted, not necessarily the “Active Body”, then create new body, will be at bottom of Tree.

 

In that new body, create a sketch, make a box larger than your overall panels.  Then Pad that to make a 7 mm Pad, will in Part Design WB.

 

Go to Draft WB, select your graphic ShapeStrings, “Draft to Sketch” Command, new sketch at bottom of Tree.

 

Go to Part Design WB, drag that new Sketch onto the “Body” and it will be associated with that body and new Pad.  Then use the Pocket Command and make the Pocket 6mm into the 7 mm Pad. “Bodyxxx” Lost track of the numbers, as I type this my document has many bodies already, so my ‘new bodies’ are numbered differently than in this work flow assuming you started with a fresh project.

 

A few notes, this new pad may end up being in a different Z plane position than your other panels, and the Pocket will be made from the Bottom to the Top, it’s just where the “Sketch” exists relative to the Pad.    No problem.  After creating the Pocket, just rotate your new big Pad to see the holes.  Now to cut off the extra 1 mm part.

 

Part WB, make sure nothing is “Active Body”  use the Cube button to make a cube, then adjust that cube into a 1mm thick slab which is larger than your overall panel size in the X Y plane, you will then have to move it into position relative to the other Panel you want to cut.  Align it with that new slicing slab overlapping with the PAD you want to cut at the Z level of the Extra Un-pocketted part of the PAD.

 

Part WB, Under the BodyXXX highlight the “Pocket” and Make a copy.  Will be at the bottom of the Tree, PocketXYZ.

 

Highlight the PocketXYX, command click the Cube (cutting slab), use the “Slice Apart” command under “Split” and this will create a group of sliced parts.

 

Click to hide each slice, usually the two top slices are the ones you don’t want and you will reveal your Text Holes to fill your Extruded Text.

 

Under the Exploded Slice, high light the slices you want and use Union Command, will make a “Fusion” under the group Exploded Slice.

 

Make Simple Copy of the Fusion and it will be at the bottom of the tree.

 

Now adjust Z plane position and all the parts should line up.  Select each of the four components, click one command click the rest and Export as a 3MF

 

Import into your favorite Slicer and print it.  Print with the TEXT filament as first Filament so the text will be readable.  I put the object face down so the print would have a texted surface. I tried both ways and the top up creates a cross slash on the surface.  The results were ok, but I like the texture better.

 

Mike

I'll test out the Ironing, I had read about that.

I am Printing the HMCS panel now.  Had to work it over to change the Fonts.  Arial Bold seams to work. Each panel had to be adjusted after changing the font AND correction a typo (Left out the M in Symbology) LOL.

I am not buying a laser etcher also.  That gets GREAT results I know, the stuff people make is Simply Amazing, but this is more than Good Enough for me.  Very happy with the outcome.  The printer was $1700.  Enough for this hobby.

 

Mike

Edited March 16 by Aronis

[Mk1_Trebuchet]

Great Job on those!!!

 

For panel making, a 0.2 nozzle on that X1C will change everything.  (Sure, it takes 2.5 times longer to print, but the results are far superior to the 0.4)

Ironing never gave me acceptable results.  It works fine on small parts, but large flat areas end up looking more striated than without ironing.

 

Edit - The Garmin is a WIP and shows "Face Down" printing with the 0.2 nozzle.

 

null

Edited March 16 by Mk1_Trebuchet
additional refrence

[Aronis]

Very nice. I guess I'll have to print the correct knobs too LOL.

Yes, I have a .2mm nozzle on order.  

 

Mike

[Aronis]

Final Version. and it works.  I just have to work out the issue with the lighted switches.  When I first connected to the Arduino I had odd flashing of two of the switches and a bad burning smell. I did not burn out the Arduino, but just disconnected the light part of the switches to work the function of the rest of the panel.

 

Mike

Maybe some day I figure out little number panels for the Status row.  Or just look up at the screen LOL.

 

Mike

[Aronis]

I got the smooth plate for the Bambu printer and I am interested in reprinting the panel with face down on the smooth plate to see the effect.

 

Mike

[No1sonuk]

As mentioned in Discord, which switches are they?

It sounds like you were drawing too much current and were lucky not to blow the Arduino's regulator or I/O pins.

The "bad burning smell" is the stage just before the smoke escapes!    

[Spitty]

Yes release of the magic smoke is not recommended...

[Aronis]

Got the lights working.    

I removed the resister in series (just like I did on the other box) and now working on the Coding for the game.

After some fiddling got to a point to test in game and the switches work correctly for the RWR controls, but the lights do not, yet work correctly. I have to figure out the code, perhaps an error.

I need some dedicated time to work on it.

Once that box is working, I want to move on to remaking the other two.

Mike

 

[Hempstead]

[Aronis]

Amazing to see such great workmanship from a home DIY person.  I have been tempted to buy a laser etcher, and cutter, perhaps some day.  This is a hobby you can do at any age, as opposed to cabinet making, or auto work, as you get older lifting heavy <profanity> becomes a problem.

I've DIY many project from pulling engines to installing in-ground pools, roofing a house to finishing basements, installing whole house generators to building PC's.   This kind of DIY is fun and not physically taxing, until you have to crawl onto the floor to reach behind the PC to plug in something LOL.

 

Mike

 

 

[No1sonuk]

4 hours ago, Aronis said:

This kind of DIY is fun and not physically taxing, until you have to crawl onto the floor to reach behind the PC to plug in something LOL.

Build a stand...   

[Aronis]

I wanted to but the space it too tight.   Would have to move too much  stuff. LOL.

 

Mike

 

[Hempstead]

That's not that much extra space than an office chair in the picture below (the rudder is still under the table). You indeed would need slightly more space than with just an office chair, but not much considering you also need space to move the office chair in/out, and for you to get in/out of the chair etc. My "VR pit" basically occupies that "free space" needed for an office chair and causes some inconvenience for my real office chair right behind it (I just have to slide the "pilot chair" forward and fold it for using my real office chair). And I build it in place. Of course I have a garage full of machine tools to cut the extrusion and brackets etc. But the building of it is right there in place. I have no "passage" space to maneuver it to that position if I build it somewhere else. Admittedly, it's a bit cramped building it in place, but it's doable. But now I do need some extra space to get in/out of the pit on the right hand side.

The trouble with a "pit" like this is that without the office chair... how are you going to play regular desktop games... or PS5/Switch games on monitor? My solution is to make the front panel easily replaceable. So I can quickly take down the F-16 front panel, and slot in a driving wheel board, or a sliding keyboard/mouse tray, in 3 minutes.

Most of the connectors are just cheap home made aluminum L-brackets with drilled holes. And the connectors/adapters for the adjustable parts of the replaceable front panels, board, trays are simply 3D printed.

Also, the previous 3D printed ICP picture I showed... The ICP was right out of the printer and laser, no sanding. The two rocker switches, you can't iron them, so they were printed without, and then sanded. You can see the huge difference between non-ironed/sanded vs ironed-right surfaces.

[Bucic]

Ironing for printing labels-up is absolutely not worth it. Why would anyone go this way if you could just buy a smooth plate for your printer and print everything labels-down?

[Aronis]

Making Progress on the right side.

Mike

 

Left side done.  There are plenty of switches on the WinWing Throttle for the remaining items.

 

Mike

 

[Aronis]

Of course I added more.

 

Mike