Conuk Posted September 13, 2009 Posted September 13, 2009 I'm getting to grips with the ap and trim etc... But I'm thinking the cougar aint the subtlest of sticks for dcs. Is there away I can dumb down the stick so its not so sensitive. I adjusted the dead spot.... Do I adjust the saturation or something in game? I don't want it lurching forwards or back with the smallest of push/pull on stick. Thanks in advance.
Cezar11 Posted September 13, 2009 Posted September 13, 2009 I went into the axis curve in BS itself and adjusted it quite a bit... now it's much more predictable with my cougar. Home built i5 quadcore. dual ATI 4850 in xfire mode. 16GB ram Warthog HOTAS, Thrustmaster Rudder, TrackIR 5, TM MFD's, windows 7 64 ultimate.. 40" primary screen, 19" secondary [sIGPIC][/sIGPIC]
Vekkinho Posted September 13, 2009 Posted September 13, 2009 Yeah, increase the curves.... [sIGPIC][/sIGPIC]
Conuk Posted September 13, 2009 Author Posted September 13, 2009 ok X axis shape is 8 100 50 40 from top to bottom. y axis is 30 100 100 0 what curve should I be looking at fellas ?
JG14_Smil Posted September 13, 2009 Posted September 13, 2009 The Cougar uses auto calibration by default, so every time you boot your system, you need to move the stick to it's limits for smooth operation while in a sim. Do it once before you fly BS and it should handle much better. Curves are not the total answer as they can make the trim function harder to learn with the harsher output near the ends of controller travel. Easier near the center means harder near the ends.
-Bazong- Posted September 14, 2009 Posted September 14, 2009 The Cougar uses auto calibration by default, so every time you boot your system, you need to move the stick to it's limits for smooth operation while in a sim. Do it once before you fly BS and it should handle much better. Curves are not the total answer as they can make the trim function harder to learn with the harsher output near the ends of controller travel. Easier near the center means harder near the ends. If one sets the curves in the cougars software that should not be the case though I thinks.
JG14_Smil Posted September 14, 2009 Posted September 14, 2009 curve is a curve, no matter where it is done. If the original poster is editing curves in TM, they can figure out how to set for manual calibration. trust me, if you use auto calibration and do not move the controls to their maximum before running the sim, all of it is a waste of time. This is because every time the contoller moves to a further position, it resets that to the maximum, therefore a small movement will still be hard to control (this is the problem of the original post). Get stable control input, then edit your curves to your liking.
JG14_Smil Posted September 14, 2009 Posted September 14, 2009 One more important thing to check... I believe there is TMScope or something like that that shows you the most accurate controller inputs. Start that up and check to see if your Cougar is spiking badly, which is very common with that P.O.S. (imho) controller. If it is spiking badly (the green crosshair cursor will jump all over the place when controller is moved), either send it back to TM or try to putz with the potentiometers (or Hall Effect sensors) while watching TMScope to see the result. good luck to you.
-Bazong- Posted September 14, 2009 Posted September 14, 2009 curve is a curve, no matter where it is done. If the original poster is editing curves in TM, they can figure out how to set for manual calibration. trust me, if you use auto calibration and do not move the controls to their maximum before running the sim, all of it is a waste of time. This is because every time the contoller moves to a further position, it resets that to the maximum, therefore a small movement will still be hard to control (this is the problem of the original post). Get stable control input, then edit your curves to your liking. Offcourse, I never used a Cougar so I would'nt know about it's calibration. What I meant to quote was: "Curves are not the total answer as they can make the trim function harder to learn with the harsher output near the ends of controller travel. Easier near the center means harder near the ends." If curves in BS are relative to the ingame cyclic position (and not to your joysticks position) it will matter whether the curve is set in the Cougars software or in the game. Thats what I thought you meant.. :P I use an FFB stick though so I would'nt know..:joystick:
Cezar11 Posted September 14, 2009 Posted September 14, 2009 all I know is.. I don't "stir the stick" at bootup.. and I don't have any issues with trim or the "extreme" movements at the edge of the stick travel.... in fact, I never really move the stick past 60% of it's travel, the blades don't like being thrown around. She's a very responsive aircraft, and only needs a nudge (maybe a tad more ) to go where you want.... my curves in BS seem to work out great... lets me fly at speed like I think I should, yet lets me be very gentle and precise when flying slowly. Home built i5 quadcore. dual ATI 4850 in xfire mode. 16GB ram Warthog HOTAS, Thrustmaster Rudder, TrackIR 5, TM MFD's, windows 7 64 ultimate.. 40" primary screen, 19" secondary [sIGPIC][/sIGPIC]
Conuk Posted September 14, 2009 Author Posted September 14, 2009 One more important thing to check... I believe there is TMScope or something like that that shows you the most accurate controller inputs. Start that up and check to see if your Cougar is spiking badly, which is very common with that P.O.S. (imho) controller. If it is spiking badly (the green crosshair cursor will jump all over the place when controller is moved), either send it back to TM or try to putz with the potentiometers (or Hall Effect sensors) while watching TMScope to see the result. good luck to you. cheers - guess I should see if theres a problem with the stick first before I blame myself first ;)
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