Deadman Posted December 14, 2011 Posted December 14, 2011 That looks great is the design using MDF? https://forum.dcs.world/topic/133818-deadmans-cockpit-base-plans/#comment-133824 CNCs and Laser engravers are great but they can't do squat with out a precise set of plans.
HOP_TRIZZ Posted December 14, 2011 Posted December 14, 2011 I am not sure what your measuring at 14.1729 all of your measurements on the files are not in inches and 100th of an inch are these your originals or reworks of an old PDF file? No not mine, they are a rework conversion of a old pdf file thats been on the site for like ever,it seems that nobody wont's to post any proper aces2 files for cnc cutting and i need the dam seat for the pit, but if you could help out with the corrections on the file I'm sure it would be greatly appreciated. Mike....:thumbup:
y2kiah Posted December 14, 2011 Author Posted December 14, 2011 Yeah MDF or plywood, your choice. Holes are pre-drilled for joints to be done with wood screws, or cross-dowels, or angle brackets, take your pick. I hate using MDF personally since it turns to powder and gets everywhere. Gadroc pointed out the .05 thickness difference between the two. Once I update my files, if you plan to use MDF you would probably have to file down the gaps to fit MDF, since I will design for .72 wide gaps. HOP I'm going to have an A-10 seat designed at some point, I have several files and references to go from, including yours now, thanks. Most everything you can find is F-16 but I know where the differences are for the A-10 version.
Gadroc Posted December 14, 2011 Posted December 14, 2011 Yeah that won't be a problem, just a few more things to clean up and I can post the right, front, and base. You're on your own for the seat mount, I have no clue yet how I'll raise and lower the seat, may just go with fixed height. Awesome! Thanks again for sharing your incredible work. I plan on just having a fixed seat position. 99% of the time it's just me flying the pit and I'm not growing anymore (at least not in the directions the seat height adjust helps with).
Gadroc Posted December 14, 2011 Posted December 14, 2011 HOP, The most meaningful differences between the ACES II in an A-10 and F-16 are the seat angle and the ejection handle. In the F-16 the seat is at a 30 degree recline to help with the G-Force load on the pilot. The A-10 is only 15 degrees. If the A-10 is at 9G there is probably not much the pilot could do anyways ;). Second the F-16 has a side stick controller so the ejection handle is locate between your legs and the ejection seat has knee guards. In the A-10 the knee guards are the ejection handles since it has a center stick and the center ejection handle couldn't be used. I'm sure others could point out several more detailed differences, but if your planning on building those plans your probably not worried about that level of detail.
HOP_TRIZZ Posted December 14, 2011 Posted December 14, 2011 HOP, The most meaningful differences between the ACES II in an A-10 and F-16 are the seat angle and the ejection handle. In the F-16 the seat is at a 30 degree recline to help with the G-Force load on the pilot. The A-10 is only 15 degrees. If the A-10 is at 9G there is probably not much the pilot could do anyways ;). Second the F-16 has a side stick controller so the ejection handle is locate between your legs and the ejection seat has knee guards. In the A-10 the knee guards are the ejection handles since it has a center stick and the center ejection handle couldn't be used. I'm sure others could point out several more detailed differences, but if your planning on building those plans your probably not worried about that level of detail. I was looking at the file there are two sets of plans for the lower seat sets one is for the f16 and the other is for the a10, nice i could do 9g in my Sim no prob:lol:but since this is just my Hobie and for fun i would like to make it as real as possible ,also l like the idea of the curved screen but i heard there where problems running a warping program for the projectors, as in not being able to use windows or the net and so-on, so I've been looking at the new lg 55 inch TV for the primary screen with two 22 inch monitors of the sides :thumbup:
HOP_TRIZZ Posted December 14, 2011 Posted December 14, 2011 (edited) Yeah that won't be a problem, just a few more things to clean up and I can post the right, front, and base. You're on your own for the seat mount, I have no clue yet how I'll raise and lower the seat, may just go with fixed height. Bro, check this out if you make a platform with hight rails for your max hight use a airbag setup when you hit the seat switch it sends a trigger to the mini compressor to raise the seat hight down releases the air in the bag just like a car set up and the bags are cheap...:thumbup:http://www.suspensionconnection.com/cgi-bin/suscon/scan/fi=products/st=db/co=1/sf=category/se=Air%20Spring%20Replacements/op=eq/nu=0/ml=25/tf=category/to=x/tf=veh_make/to=x/tf=description/to=r.html the mini compressors are 12 volts, so they can be run with a board or direct to a switch, i would think this might solve all the seat hight issues with the sim and helios, Gadroc needs to chime in on this one to se if it is possible... Edited December 14, 2011 by HOP_TRIZZ
Dropship Pilot Posted December 14, 2011 Posted December 14, 2011 I was looking at the file there are two sets of plans for the lower seat sets one is for the f16 and the other is for the a10, nice i could do 9g in my Sim no prob:lol:but since this is just my Hobie and for fun i would like to make it as real as possible ,also l like the idea of the curved screen but i heard there where problems running a warping program for the projectors, as in not being able to use windows or the net and so-on, so I've been looking at the new lg 55 inch TV for the primary screen with two 22 inch monitors of the sides :thumbup: Hi Hop, be carefull when doing the seat bucket side walls - they are more differend than most people realize (took me quite some time too!). Apart from the relocation of the ejection handles, the tops of the side walls were also cut off on the F-16 version (the right one in the picture): The seat on the right is actually an F-15 seat, but it is far more similar to the A-10 seat than the F-16 one. Cheers, Stefan
Flim Posted December 15, 2011 Posted December 15, 2011 (edited) This seat? y2 has this seat for ref.... The dims are close as you can get in wood... but I'm not giving cad files away! Sorry guys I will have a kit for this soon. F-16 version built in Birch and alum Edited December 15, 2011 by Flim
HOP_TRIZZ Posted December 15, 2011 Posted December 15, 2011 this is the seat i'v been looking for.... flim check your pm's
Deadman Posted December 15, 2011 Posted December 15, 2011 MDF is to dam heavy for my old back. i need to get with you possibly and change a few things to aluminum https://forum.dcs.world/topic/133818-deadmans-cockpit-base-plans/#comment-133824 CNCs and Laser engravers are great but they can't do squat with out a precise set of plans.
y2kiah Posted December 15, 2011 Author Posted December 15, 2011 sounds good, you thinking aluminum plate for the ribs mainly? pm me when you get a chance
Flim Posted December 15, 2011 Posted December 15, 2011 Honestly Birch is a great choice for the structure.... Light, strong, and Holds together well over time.
frallzor Posted December 15, 2011 Posted December 15, 2011 As long as the sheet thickness is the same you can use what you want. But MDF is and will allways be a killer along with particle boards. Price vs usability cant be beaten.
y2kiah Posted December 17, 2011 Author Posted December 17, 2011 Right side has been posted to the original post. A little clarification on plywood thicknesses. I made a trip to home depot last night and remembered to do some measuring. The Birch plywood is a full 3/4" thick. The cabinet grade plywood is 23/32" which is close to .72, possibly what Gadroc is using. I'm planning to use the birch stuff, so I made the tabs exactly .75 wide in the cut layout. This will give a .03 oversize for the thinner ply, and a snug fit for MDF or birch.
Flim Posted December 17, 2011 Posted December 17, 2011 Ya, the good stuff (birch) is .72 which is what I mainly used for myself.
Gadroc Posted December 17, 2011 Posted December 17, 2011 Right side has been posted to the original post. A little clarification on plywood thicknesses. I made a trip to home depot last night and remembered to do some measuring. The Birch plywood is a full 3/4" thick. The cabinet grade plywood is 23/32" which is close to .72, possibly what Gadroc is using. I'm planning to use the birch stuff, so I made the tabs exactly .75 wide in the cut layout. This will give a .03 oversize for the thinner ply, and a snug fit for MDF or birch. I was using the birch plywood from Lowes. Based on their specs online it's .703. I used a cut depth of .73 on it when setting up my tool paths. This probably varies by area as well. .75 wide notches would be to wide for the plywood I was using there would be significant "wobble" in the joints. Everyone should verify their wood before cutting.
y2kiah Posted December 17, 2011 Author Posted December 17, 2011 (edited) Yeah it probably varies by location and supplier. The birch I measured was the same thickness as the MDF at Home Depot. I think I need to take a caliper to it to be sure though. I guess a one-size-fits-all pattern won't be possible, I want to make sure my gaps are not too small for MDF so I'll stick to .75, if you want to modify them for thinner, I'll gladly post your modded files alongside the originals. I was using the birch plywood from Lowes. Based on their specs online it's .703. I used a cut depth of .73 on it when setting up my tool paths. This probably varies by area as well. .75 wide notches would be to wide for the plywood I was using there would be significant "wobble" in the joints. Everyone should verify their wood before cutting. Edited December 17, 2011 by y2kiah
HOP_TRIZZ Posted December 17, 2011 Posted December 17, 2011 I was thinking about using hdf but i like the look of the birch..
y2kiah Posted December 22, 2011 Author Posted December 22, 2011 I reworked the MFCDs according to the spec sheet that was posted a little while back, so it's now accurate to the real dimensions. I had to rework the front panel to fit the changes, so in case you're thinking about cutting the old front panel .dxf that I posted, don't! I will post the complete center section tomorrow.
Gadroc Posted December 23, 2011 Posted December 23, 2011 I've been laid out by my annual Xmas Sinus Cold the last few days, so I've only been working on electronics. I'll be cutting right console next week. I need to tweak the front panel to fit all my LCD screens anyways.
avlolga Posted December 23, 2011 Posted December 23, 2011 Hi Gadroc, regarding to using LCD screens for the fron console. r you going to use Laptop flat screens or other with buidin VGA connectors? Laptop screen are much cheaper, but i do not know (yet) how to build an conetor to VGA 15 pin. Thanks
hog_driver111th Posted December 23, 2011 Posted December 23, 2011 I've been laid out by my annual Xmas Sinus Cold the last few days, so I've only been working on electronics. I'll be cutting right console next week. I need to tweak the front panel to fit all my LCD screens anyways. I feel the same. Got hit by something last weekend and been in bed all week. I've got a question concerning the pit. I don't have a CNC, so my cuts will be by hand. What're the differences (minus the outer walls) between your pit and dimebugs dimensions? I'm really wanting to cut realistic the first time. A-10C - FC3 - CA - L-39 - UH1 - P-51 - Hawk - BS2 - F-86 - Gazelle - F-5E - AV8B - F/A-18C i5-4590 - GTX 1060 - Oculus CV1 - TM:Warthog [sIGPIC]http://forums.eagle.ru/signaturepics/sigpic9979_1.gif[/sIGPIC]
linden Posted December 23, 2011 Posted December 23, 2011 As for the screens for the front im gonna use 1 27" and 2 7" im almost done whit the stencil and i will share it if someone needs it. The main problem when using a big 27" is the sw for the Master Arm Gun/pac etc. i will build the front in maby 5-6mm mdf/plywood so the screen will be as close to the front as posible.
HOP_TRIZZ Posted December 23, 2011 Posted December 23, 2011 (edited) Hi Gadroc, regarding to using LCD screens for the fron console. r you going to use Laptop flat screens or other with buidin VGA connectors? Laptop screen are much cheaper, but i do not know (yet) how to build an connector to VGA 15 pin. Thanks THIS IS THE BOARD YOU NEEDS TO CONNECT TO THE SCREEN http://www.ebay.com/itm/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&Item=300630050215:thumbup: I think they also have the usb board also but if your looking to go from 15 pin to the computer do a rs 232 to dvi connector thisis for the tft monitor for the hmdi control board http://www.ebay.com/itm/VGA-AV-HDMI-board-TFT-LCD-/300639850913?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item45ff8811a1 Edited December 23, 2011 by HOP_TRIZZ new info
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