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What is the meaning of "trim center"?


sunwolf

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The old method (there's a checkbox in the options screen for selecting which one your prefer) places the new center at wherever you had the cyclic AND RUDDER when you release the button, and then gives you a time period to return your cyclic. This was a problem for some people, since this could cause double inputs after that time period if they were "too slow", leading either to some oscillations which are mainly just annoying but potentially also rotor disc intersection which is catastrophic.

 

To change - just go to the options screen in-game.

 

Note that if you want to use that method with an FFB stick you may need to change the ForceFeedbackEnabled variable in Producer.cfg to false.

 

"Central Position" mode is the one that waits for you to center your stick AND RUDDER. Flaky pots may cause this to simply never happen - the stick ends up sending deflection signals to the computer even though it is physically centered. In that case the options really are to either give it deadzones, use the old method, or replace the stick since it will likely die soon anyhow. (I recently replaced my Cyborg with an x52 for that reason.)

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The old method has you in control all of the time but can be jerky since the new input take effect almost immediately after trimming.

 

The new method is smoother since it requires that you return the stick/pedal back in the "center window" before accepting new input, however you aren't in control during that time between trimming and centering the joysticks.

 

I prefer the old method since you can never been locked out of the controls for not having put the inputs back near enough center. However you can alter the window size for the new method that will only lock out extreme situations and allow moderately off-center inputs to take effect immediately. If you make the window big enough it's functionally very, very similar to the old method.

 

The new method mostly lacks a wide enough rudder window. Often you'll find you are not given control back because the rudder was outside the window when the stick was plenty central. Using the new trimmer I would definitely edit the rudder pedal window wider.

 

Or you can get an FFB joystick and never worry about this again :p

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Or, you can remove the centering spring in your non-ffb joystick.

 

A real force stick won't have a centering spring. If it has a center spring then it's a "rumble" stick.

 

So it is more real if I disable it. :-)

 

Both methods are different ways of making unrealistic joysticks work, so neither is more real than the other. Both methods allow our "dumb" static-spring type joysticks to control the Ka-50 cyclic which has a dynamic-spring center. The real cyclic simply lets the springs slide freely on their mount rails when the trim button is depressed so when the springs lock again the cyclic is spring loaded to that position. The cyclic itself is always rigidly connected to the flight control linkages.

 

I call the central trimmer method the "new" method because it was added in a patch some time post-release (and changed the default setting which confused plenty.) The "old" method is what the game was capable of out of the box.

 

When you move your joystick (and thus cyclic) to position (X,Y) and press trim the game then associates that Ka50 cyclic position (X,Y) with (0,0) on your joystick. So letting the joystick fall back to (0,0) means the Ka50 cyclic is at (X,Y) which is the position last trimmed.

 

The difference in methods "new" and "old" is how the game deals with the "change of coordinates." I guess you should try the new method and see if the freezing of controls bothers you. If it does then the old method doesn't do freezing but demands more of the pilot in terms of being on top of the recentering to keep things smooth.

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