Report HOTAS Warthog problems

[cichlidfan]

If Windows does not see the axis, even when Target is not running, then it is either a hardware issue or a driver issue.

 

Try removing and reinstalling the TM drivers and if that does not change anything then I would return the unit or contact TM, if a return is not possible.

[a1adin]

how do you remove Tm driver?

by uninstalling target?

[Oydoron]

I had a look into it today.

 

It turns out they really seem to be using software PWM, as the LEDs operate at a frequency of 200Hz, which is far lower than usual hardware PWM. Nevertheless 200Hz is 4 times faster than the visible limit of 48Hz, so this should not be a problem in that regard.

 

Normally, 60Hz flicker in peripheral vision is easily detectable. Higher for many people, but not 200Hz. Still, 200Hz is really low for a LED PWM frequency. The problem is that when the duty cycle is low, you can easily see the individual flashes if your eyes are moving with respect to the LED as a dot dot dot pattern.

[a1adin]

I have uninstalled target,

and reinstall driver 23 for the throttle,

but the problem remains:

z and rz axis are still not detected

 

I have also contacted TM yesterday, but so far there is no reply,

 

How long does it usually take for them to reply?

Edited December 4, 2014 by a1adin

[NeilWillis]

Q: Why is my throttle a brick?

A: Send it in to TM.

 

Or alternatively, contact Thrustmaster through their website, and they'll send out a replacement main board which is very simple to swap.

 

Turn the throttle unit upside down and remove the 7 securing screws. Just carefully disconnect the 7 ribbon cables on sockets at the 2 sides of the board to unplug, then unscrew the 4 silver headed screws, and carefully lift out the board (there is a socket on the underside, so take care not to bend the pins. Lift the USB cable out of the warthog housing, and discard.

 

Fitting is the reverse of removal. Make certain that the earth strap is secured with the centre screw on the base.

 

A very simple fix for a dead throttle unit. Mine cost just 48 Euros, and took around 14 days for delivery.

[Oydoron]

Normally, 60Hz flicker in peripheral vision is easily detectable. Higher for many people, but not 200Hz. Still, 200Hz is really low for a LED PWM frequency. The problem is that when the duty cycle is low, you can easily see the individual flashes if your eyes are moving with respect to the LED as a dot dot dot pattern.

 

I took a look at this a little more closely, there is definitely a ~30Hz or so beat. I'm curious now. I'll scope it next week and see what's up.

[Oydoron]

I took a look at this a little more closely, there is definitely a ~30Hz or so beat. I'm curious now. I'll scope it next week and see what's up.

 

So anyway, I scoped it and it looks like they are bitbanging the PWM quite poorly. Bitbanging is using the CPU to write out the PWM signal bit by bit, due to time variations, the signal tends to jump around. The alternative is to use dedicated PWM hardware, which I'm guessing they don't have.

 

Here's a good capture that demonstrates that they are very likely bitbanging the PWM signal:

 

 

This little cutout happens too rarely to cause an issue, but it does indicate that there is likely a software loop handling PWM and it has some discontinuity at the end/beginning of the loop.

 

Anyway, here's a demonstration of the actual problem:

 

 

You can see that the width of the pulses varies quite a bit, and the measured duty cycle and frequency does too. I've seen it vary between 40% and 50% in the default power on condition. I would guess that it would be worse at lower brightness. It may be that a driver/firmware update may be able to improve the situation, but I'd need to take a look at what chip they are using and see what their PWM code looks like.