Saitek ST290 Pro centering drift.

[dsobbe]

I have a Saitek ST290 Pro joystick that has worked perfectly for three years on an HP, Vista32 computer. I am using the latest Saitek driver. This is a non-FFB joystick. The ST290 has been a great product and I was saddened to hear that it's no longer available in the U.S.

Within the last two months the X axis (roll) centering has been randomly drifting to the right and eventually locks at full travel. It can be reset by re-calibrating the joystick with the Windows Vista Game Controller Utility. However, the X axis centering again quickly drifts and locks to the right.

I've eliminated the Black Shark center trimmer [LCtrl]+[T] as a culprit or cure. That's working. And the centering works correctly using another ST290 Pro. So, the problem is in the original joystick.

I have performed a continuity check of the X axis potentiometer and it functions correctly. Visual inspection of the internal wiring and circuit board show no indications of intermittent open connections or any physical or heat damage. Has anyone else had this problem or know a fix for it?

[aaron886]

It sounds like your potentiometers are going bad, or they're physically slipping. (Almost certainly the former.)

[dsobbe]

It sounds like your potentiometers are going bad, or they're physically slipping. (Almost certainly the former.)

 

The pots aren't slipping. But, you may be right about them going bad. I'll have to borrow a friends oscilloscope to verify that. Thanks.

[walker450]

Mine started doing that after I lengthened the wires, but it was because I got two wires swapped around. Once I corrected the wires, everything has been fine since.

 

So what this means is that tiny gremilins, possibly employed by TM, have gotten into your Saitek, and swapped two of the 20 wires. This is obviously the most logical reason, right?

 

:)

[dsobbe]

Mine started doing that after I lengthened the wires, but it was because I got two wires swapped around. Once I corrected the wires, everything has been fine since.

 

So what this means is that tiny gremilins, possibly employed by TM, have gotten into your Saitek, and swapped two of the 20 wires. This is obviously the most logical reason, right?

 

:)

Ah ha! I think I'll look into that. My tin foil beeny with the propeller isn't doing a thing.:thumbup:

[dsobbe]

I have one bad pot and one other that's starting to go. I've searched the net and tried to contact Saitek, but no luck. Does anyone know of a source for st290 replacement pots?

[Bucic]

Wrong forum section, unless you got the joystick shipped as a bonus with the game :music_whistling:

 

Recentering in the windows callibrration utility usually does nothing. Besides, if you have the Saitek drivers installed you should not have axes to calibration at all.

 

Manual re-calibration of Saitek self centering joysticks:

- disconnect the controllers

- navigate to HKEY_CURRENT_USER\System\CurrentControlSet\Control\MediaProperties\PrivateProperties\DirectInput

- back it up just in case

- delete all the VID_* keys, unless you use JoyID application to determine which key is for affected controller

- re-connect your controller and do some full range motions

[dsobbe]

Bucic,

 

You are correct. This thread probably should be under Input and Output. Sorry. My mistake. You may move it if you wish. Or, if I can do it please tell me how.

Thanks for the info on re-calibration. Tried it but it didn't work. I can see the spikes on a scope. The pot is no good.

[Bucic]

Bug a moderator? :)

 

Oh, so it's hardware then. Weird though. Saitek pot's are usually of high quality.

[asparagin]

Does anyone know of a source for st290 replacement pots?

 

Yes me, but the costs of sending it to the states are bigger than a new one :(

[dsobbe]

Bug a moderator? :)

Oh, so it's hardware then. Weird though. Saitek pot's are usually of high quality.

 

I opened the bad pot. it's a high end plastic multi-wiper type that has been used in radio control model servos for many years, where they are subject to high vibration levels. They are indeed reliable. But, like any electronic part, they can last forever or quite in two seconds.:joystick: There's just no way to tell. This particular pot has seen about 700 hours of operation. That has to equate to many thousands of cycles.

The st290 is a well thought out design using modular assemblies. It's very easy to remove the pots from the gimble and unplug them from the PC board. If I do find replacement pots I'll post the source here. In the meantime, I'm buying a few extra st290's before they disappear; just for insurance.

[dsobbe]

Yes me, but the costs of sending it to the states are bigger than a new one :(

 

Don't keep it a secret. What is your source?

[Bucic]

Don't keep it a secret. What is your source?

Are you kidding me?! :)

Just go to the nearest electronics shop and buy a potentiometer:

- 100 kOhm (I don't take responsibility*)

- linear (!)

- single turn

- half moon shaft (I don't know the dimensions; take the original pot with you or measure the shaft...)

- for ~$2 a piece

 

Additionally take it in your hand and rotate the shaft. The feeling should not be 'it rotates effortlessly and SANDY'. The feeling should be like you would rotate a spoon handle in a block of butter.

 

 

If you go for 'any shaft type' i.e. not identical to the original pots (see the picture above - this shaft is different from the original pots shafts) you'll have to use a glue like POXIPOL to mount them. Or modify the shafts...

 

* Take a look at the original pots cases. Maybe there are some designations. If not use a digital multimeter to measure the resistance range to be 100% sure, although 100 k is a good guess.

 

 

 

 

_____________________________________

Alternatively you can turn original potentiometers by ~45 degrees to utilize the part of potentiometer arc that is not wear out yet. It is possible because the potentiometers should have ~180 degrees (edit: 60 degrees, so it appears, but still it is possible to use the trick) of rotation range while a regular joystick axis use circa 40.

 

Check the travel limits before attempting to modify anything.

Edited December 22, 2010 by Bucic

[dsobbe]

Bucic,

"Just go to the nearest electronics shop and buy a potentiometer".

That's not so easy anymore. But, you did remind me of the old trick of rotating a pot to use a good part of the arc. Thanks. I'll give that a try.

[asparagin]

I just have an ST290 which I don't use anymore..