Low Cost Hallsensor mod for Cougar

[doveman]

Great info here. I'm restoring a TM F-16 FLCS stick. I'm using a Teensy 3.1 and have got all the buttons working but the pots are very jittery. I was planning on replacing them with hall sensors anyway.

 

These might be a better choice for the sensor http://uk.farnell.com/honeywell-s-c/ss495a1/sensor-hall-effect-6-operate-points/dp/1470592 as they're more sensitive http://forums.eagle.ru/showpost.php?p=2318962&postcount=17 Farnell charge an extra £4 for orders under £20 though.

 

These are even more sensitive but are US stock so too expensive for me in the UK.

http://uk.farnell.com/allegro-microsystems/a1324lua-t/ic-sensor-hall-effect--nw/dp/2336862?ost=A1324LUA-T&categoryId=700000004372

 

RS have them but there's a £5 charge for orders under £20.

http://uk.rs-online.com/web/p/hall-effect-sensor-ics/7532002/

 

I can get the SS495A1 on e-bay from China totalling £2.98 for two with no other charges, so I guess I'll do that as I'm not in a big hurry!

 

The magnets seem quite expensive or only come in large quantities on e-bay. http://www.ebay.co.uk/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_trksid=p2050601.m570.l1313.TR6.TRC1.A0.H0.X1%2F4%22+rare+earth+magne.TRS0&_nkw=1%2F4%22+rare+earth+magnet&_sacat=0

 

Are the cheaper disc magnets from Hong Kong, about £2.60 for 200pcs, any good? I obviously don't want 200, so if I can spend that much or a bit more on a smaller quantity of something that's better or more suitable, I'd rather do that.

 

I can tap the USB 5v supply from the Teensy, so hopefully that will be sufficient as I don't really want to have to rig up a separate supply just for the sensors.

[doveman]

Would these be good magnets to use?

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/15-of-1-4-Cube-Magnets-NdFeB-Neodymium-/380197062171?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_3&hash=item588582c61b

[sebbomann]

Would these be good magnets to use?

 

I don't know. Look's like it should work.

 

Buy them, try them and tell us. ;)

[doveman]

OK. 'Should work' is good enough for me :)

[wopski]

Has anybody got detailed instructions on this mod please?

 

All the pictures I can find have been removed :/

 

Regards

 

WOPSKI

[Sokol1_br]

The picture there show all you need:

 

http://forums.eagle.ru/showpost.php?p=1485155&postcount=6

 

A pair Allegro A1320 or Honeywell SS495A HALL sensor, magnets, glue and solder.

 

A1320 is better - more sensitivity - than A1302.

[Menessis]

Here are a couple of links:

 

http://forums.eagle.ru/showthread.php?p=1418106

 

http://forums.eagle.ru/showthread.php?t=57408

[sebbomann]

If you have specific questions, just ask. We will try to help. :thumbup:

[Sporg]

Look in this thread also:

http://forums.eagle.ru/showthread.php?t=160613

 

It's a guy working to make plug and play Hall sensor kits at a very reasonable price.

 

Basically 3D printed brackets for magnets and a small circuit board for the sensors.

[Sokol1_br]

To avoid deal with magnets and alignments, can use Bi-Tech 6127 HALL pot, assembled in CubPilot kit way:

 

 

http://simhq.com/forum/ubbthreads.php/topics/4223358/Cougar_TQS_potentiometer_pinno#Post4223358

 

The sensor and some R/C linkage will cost 20/25$ - the sensor is 15$ in Digikey.

 

Can be used in Cougar gimbal with the same linkage assembly. Or with some axis modification, as direct pot replacement, similar to this:

 

http://cougar.flyfoxy.com/images/cougar/Hall_and_OEM_pots.jpg

 

BTW - Get the 6127 with 1/8 axis.

Edited February 25, 2016 by Sokol1_br

[Menessis]

The problem with the use of linkages and such is that it is just one more place for it to get loose. Just my .02cents worth. :)

[wopski]

Many thanks guys will let you know how I get on!

 

Kind regards,

[Sokol1_br]

The problem with the use of linkages and such is that it is just one more place for it to get loose. Just my .02cents worth. :)

 

Those are R/C helicopter ball-link linkage, as very little forces are used inside the throttle for move the sensor, will last decades before get loose. :thumbup:

 

Anyway removing (Dremel) this metal tower support for pot' are place for fit the Bi-Tech sensor direct in throttle axis, will be need some inventive "DIY".

[wopski]

Works like a dream thanks you guys so much!

 

hopefully should get another 16 years out of the old girl yet!!

 

I used these Sensors SS495A1

 

[ame]http://www.farnell.com/datasheets/1683360.pdf[/ame]

 

And two 5mm magnets on each side.

 

Works a treat so far!

 

Regards

 

WOPSKI!

[sebbomann]

Works like a dream thanks you guys so much!

 

Glad to hear that. :)

[- Sonic -]

Hi,
I also made this upgrade. I studied a bit, but I can say that in the end, trying and trying again, the result is excellent.
I can only recommend these things:
1. be careful to choose the hall sensor compatible with the system (whether it is analog or linear, supply voltage, etc.)
2. be careful with the wiring: the hall sensor has the GND and VOUT inverted compared to how a CTS251B15F104B6NB potentiometer is structured
In my specific case, I made the modification partly as an experiment and partly because the potentiometer was starting to have some gaps in the axis reading at the beginning of the throttle (after a bit of forward movement, the reading began). After a couple of attempts (due to what was said above) I also succeeded in the undertaking with excellent results. I used:
• Allegro 1324 hall sensors (linear)
• 2.54mm 3-pin JST cables
• 5*5*5mm cubic N52 magnets
• 3D printed support (I attach the STL file)
• N52 magnet orientation
As I mentioned, the potentiometer (and how it is read by the throttle board) are organized as VCC-VOUT-GND, while the hall sensor is structured as VCC-GND-VOUT.
I'll recap with this connection diagram:

nullnull

So (in addition to being careful with the standard colors that change), the GND and VCC are inverted.
For the rest I printed a 3D support that contains the sensor and fits into the metal support of the old potentiometer; to solder I used a simple soldering iron (I put the corresponding sensor and on a paper tape, then I soldered with simple points), covered the solder with heat shrink and placed everything in the support.
I glued the magnet in the support for the axis, be careful with the orientation:

Then I connected, tested and calibrated and to my great surprise everything works well!
The necessary (what is necessary to make 3 new sensors) paid (with shipping) a little less than € 15 from Aliexpress.
Two small suggestions:
• the STL file may not be perfect; I myself had to file the printed object to make it fit correctly in its seat.
• The 3-pin 2.54mm JST connector that I took is different from the one on the peripheral PCB: I also solved this problem by filing some parts to make it fit correctly

STL Preview (file attached)
the sensor housing has a snap-on cover that you put on top (you can also glue it on if empty); the housing for the magnet has a space in the wide part at the bottom (not visible here) to house the 5*5*5 mm N52 magnet. Use glue to secure the magnet in the housing:

braket_hall_sensor_tqs_cougar_V3.stl

[BitMaster]

I shouldn't have thrown it away a decade ago, what a pitty !

Great to see the Grandfather of all Hotas still going strong with some love & dedication