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Posted

Hello all ,

 

here are some more pics of my UFC... I'm still working on getting my backlighting going, but should be soon. This version backlights very easy!!!

 

I have 3 kits ready to go for $169 plus ship. Just shoot me a PM if interested. The package is small and light, so International shipping should be fairly cheap via USPS.

 

 

kit includes laser cut mdf structure (un -built)/with switch mount, buttons painted and engraved- you will need to glue the backs on ( flange ), and engraved face plate/top cover. Also, you will need to add your own electronics and do the wiring. I have a link to the switches where I bought for mine. If you want backlighting, then buy a phidgets 64, we will have it working in Helios soon.

 

switches... I ordered 40 , a few extras just in case!

http://www.allelectronics.com/make-a-store/item/MPB-1B/SPST-MOMENTARY-N.O.-PUSHBUTTON//1.html

 

IMG_0635.jpg

IMG_0636-1.jpg

IMG_0638.jpg

Posted (edited)

Very nice indeed Flim! :)

 

Will you be shipping to the UK?

 

Also, are there any other switch options? I'm not big on those push buttons - the travel is far too much.

 

Tactile microswitches would be my preferred option:

 

http://search.digikey.com/scripts/DkSearch/dksus.dll?Detail&name=450-1650-ND

 

Is there any room to fit a PCB behind the buttons and still backlight them?

 

Sorry for the questions!

Edited by CrashEd
Posted

I can ship anywhere...

 

 

I can give you the switch position cad file if you want to design a board, but the push buttons work pretty well. The ones I'm using don't have that much movement. Gadroc and I will build a pcb later on, which can be swapped with the current method.

Posted

Hey Flim,

Long time. If you and Gadroc build a PCB for the UFC, would you offer just that all setup with even LEDs for sale, that people can buy to fit into their own UFC? Not sure I'd buy, (depends on wife) but it would be a good way to get people going that don't want to buy the whole thing.

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i5-4590 - GTX 1060 - Oculus CV1 - TM:Warthog

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Posted (edited)

I have sent you my PM. I want it, now! However I need a deal with fully working one, I can't do advanced electronics myself - that's totally not my domain.

 

PS. I will finalize my deal for SCS UMC V2 F-16 chair next week.

Edited by Shaman

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:: Shaman aka [100☭] Shamansky

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Posted (edited)

Guys, the current setup is... Get the kit, build and paint the box, glue the buttons on the flange(use acrylic glue), and screw the face plate on.

 

Buttons... Screw the switches to the switch mount and then buy a Leo bodar Buo836x and wire each switch to the board. It takes about 1-2 hours to wire. Now, I soldered the wires to the switch... Light solder, but very easy and you will be proud once it is all finished!

 

Spend a half day and you will have it working! Perfect mate with TM mfd's.

Edited by Flim
Posted
Guys, the current setup is... Get the kit, build and paint the box, glue the buttons on the flange(use acrylic glue), and screw the face plate on.

 

Buttons... Screw the switches to the switch mount and then buy a Leo bodar Buo836x and wire each switch to the board. It takes about 1-2 hours to wire. Now, I soldered the wires to the switch... Light solder, but very easy and you will be proud once it is all finished!

 

Spend a half day and you will have it working! Perfect mate with TM mfd's.

 

Okay, I will do it. I have built once a working board for remotely controlled mini trains, so I think I can handle this ;P hopefully, if not, you may get more PM-s :P

51PVO Founding member (DEC2007-)

100KIAP Founding member (DEC2018-)

 

:: Shaman aka [100☭] Shamansky

tail# 44 or 444

[sIGPIC][/sIGPIC] 100KIAP Regiment Early Warning & Control officer

Posted (edited)
I can ship anywhere...

 

 

I can give you the switch position cad file if you want to design a board, but the push buttons work pretty well. The ones I'm using don't have that much movement. Gadroc and I will build a pcb later on, which can be swapped with the current method.

 

Flim, that would be really useful, thanks. I'll make myself a custom PCB as I can get them made pretty easily...

 

Are the buttons currently backlit? If so, what do you use to backlight them?

 

Is there any way of getting an output (via LUA) so that we can get the Master Caution button to light up?

 

Edit>

 

Guys, the current setup is... Get the kit, build and paint the box.

 

Flim, this suggests that the kit comes unpainted!! Is this the case? What about the legends (text) in the UFC front panel. Are they stickers? Or are they engraved?? I'd assumed that the kit comes pre-panted and all we have to do is assemble it?

Edited by CrashEd
Posted

Hey,

 

the main structure is unbuilt- but the lightplate and buttons are painted and ready to go. You do need glue the flanges on the buttons.

 

The box is lasercut MDF and Acrylic which needs to be glued, sanded, and painted.

 

The Master caution and backlighting will work through Helios using a phidgets led 64.

Posted
Hey,

 

the main structure is unbuilt- but the lightplate and buttons are painted and ready to go. You do need glue the flanges on the buttons.

 

The box is lasercut MDF and Acrylic which needs to be glued, sanded, and painted.

 

The Master caution and backlighting will work through Helios using a phidgets led 64.

 

Ahh, I see. Sounds good. Just need to get a good finish on the wood and match the paint. sounds very do-able!

 

I'm going to have to bit the bullet and get into Helios. No two ways about it! :)

Posted

Ya, I posted the free Helios download in the input output thread

 

I used flat black for paint

 

 

Gadroc has his built and backlit ready, he will post some pics soon.

  • 3 weeks later...
Posted

Still selling these? Interested indeed. Been waiting to start working on a few projects. This may just motivate me to get things started.

Posted (edited)

Flim, would it be possible to purchase the engraved face plate and buttons only and if so, how much would you charge for them?

Edited by oritpro

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  • 1 month later...
Posted

Would the Led-Wiz be a viable/cheaper LED driving alternative? How about Helios integration?

 

Cheers!

 

Pitbull

MOBO ASUS P5QL-Pro, Intel Q9550 2.8Ghz @ 3.5 GHZ, 8GB DDR2 Crucial, XFX HD6950, TM Warthog, TIR4 /w Pro-Clip, 24 In Samsung Syncmaster LED, 2 X Cheapo 8in LCD's for MFD's and TM MFCD's attached to it, Windows 7 Ultimate x64.

  • 1 month later...
Posted (edited)

Allright .... so I got pretty much everything sorted out, soldering part and all.

 

The only thing i'm unsure of now is to separate the "switch holder" from the acrylic plate so the switch is flush with the back of the flange?? do you use an extra nut on each of the bolts and space it like that? Or is there something i'm missing???

 

thx!!

 

pitbull

 

Edit: dumb a** here figured it out.

Edited by pitbull
Fixed

MOBO ASUS P5QL-Pro, Intel Q9550 2.8Ghz @ 3.5 GHZ, 8GB DDR2 Crucial, XFX HD6950, TM Warthog, TIR4 /w Pro-Clip, 24 In Samsung Syncmaster LED, 2 X Cheapo 8in LCD's for MFD's and TM MFCD's attached to it, Windows 7 Ultimate x64.

  • 7 years later...
Posted

Close to a necro record...

9700k @ stock , Aorus Pro Z390 wifi , 32gb 3200 mhz CL16 , 1tb EVO 970 , MSI RX 6800XT Gaming X TRIO , Seasonic Prime 850w Gold , Coolermaster H500m , Noctua NH-D15S , CH Pro throttle and T50CM2/WarBrD base on Foxxmounts , CH pedals , Reverb G2v2

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