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Posted

I took the day off today, was a bit hung over to be honest but thought U would take the opportunity to cut wood!

 

I went to the local DIY store and decided that I would cut all the wood myself with a new Ryobi 500w jigsaw, and to think I had been messing around with a black and decker quattro for the last 5 years!

 

3 boards all measured and cut:

 

picture.php?albumid=540&pictureid=3702

 

This is the front:

 

picture.php?albumid=540&pictureid=3703

 

And cut out for my legs

 

picture.php?albumid=540&pictureid=3704

 

The side panels:

 

picture.php?albumid=540&pictureid=3705

 

And in setup:

 

picture.php?albumid=540&pictureid=3707

 

picture.php?albumid=540&pictureid=3706

 

I am quite pleased with the ergonomics, it feels quite good.

 

I have cut another piece the same as the front panel and then 3 x 600x400 pieces will turn it into a box.

 

I think I will put panels over the sides of the sides?!? to enclose them but probably only on one side.

 

My plan is to spray paint it all grey and then have all panels in black.

 

I dont want to permanently attach the sides to the front so i will make up some type of lock.

 

I dont think I will progress to quickly for the next month or so now, next I plan on buying the thrusmasters.

 

Then a 22" monitor.

 

Then the new computer with another 22" monitor.

Posted
May I inquire as to where you obtained the Mini Keyboard from? That is the most ingenious UFC solution I've seen yet!

 

It was off ebay, it came from Hong Kong I think. $20 bucks! Not a bad UFC!

 

It might look ingenious but we are having some problems with the game/PC recognising it as a separate device, I and some others are using HIDMacros.

Posted

This is the keyboard with the keys removed. Im going to try and put some Black Card to effectively blank it off.

 

I am also considering in future adding a small LED to act as the warning light but that will be when I can get into output devices!

 

picture.php?albumid=540&pictureid=3699

 

Oh and just bought 2 MFDs off Amazon.com.

 

Aussies, it cost australian $70 dollars including shipping from US - on ebay.com.au they are $90 plus!

Posted (edited)
May I inquire as to where you obtained the Mini Keyboard from? That is the most ingenious UFC solution I've seen yet!

I've bought it here ... http://usb.brando.com/super-tiny-keyboard_p00666c034d015.html

 

Gr, Hammer

Edited by mladen

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Posted
Hey mladen,

 

hopefully this will work, its my Powerpont template for my UFC keys, they take a bit of trimming!

 

http://www.badongo.com/file/25579909

Hi Mr_Burns, smile_big.gif

You've been very helpful. Thank you very much for the PP file bowdown.gif

The programming the keyboard is very easy and is done quite quickly. The only thing I still have to do is to program FWD, MID and AFT keys. Do you have by any chance these three key combinations? amazed_dance.gif

 

Have a nice day,

 

Mladen - Hammer

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16GB Corsair CMZ16GX3M4A1600C9 (4X4GB)| GTX 1080 + GTX750 |520 GB SSD | PSU Antec HCP-850

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Posted

FWD MID and AFT have no function apparently, I included them on the keypanel and realised later they arent even buttong i think maybe a warning or something!

 

Unless anyone knows differnt

Posted

I say u guys r so totally in to it that I get stunned :pilotfly:

I wish I would do anything like that....

So far I attached my X52Pro on my chair on each side of it.

But I just ordered a GP-Wiz40-Eco USB Controls Interface to start my build of panel. :book:

Great work guys!

Win 10 64. GTX1080 ti 11 Gb, Intel i-5, 16 Gb ram, SSD 1,5 Tb, 2 Terrabyte HD, Monitor ASUS XG32V 144Hz, Slaw Milans Rudder Pedals BF109F :thumbup:, Joystick - HOTAS Warthog, Throttle - HOTAS Warthog, TrackIR V5. Pimax 5.

Posted (edited)

This doesnt really do the 'UFC' justice but I blanked the keys i removed with some textured black card:

 

picture.php?albumid=540&pictureid=3711

 

With the flash and the fact I was losing keys and the card wasnt glued in its a bit misshaped and doesnt do justice to how really good in the flesh. I cut the card with scissors, now I have the shape I will go back and do it with a craft knife to make it neat and then glue it.

 

I messed up with the panels and the stickers. If I can give a bit of advice that may be really obvious...

 

Once you have the panel back, be it plastic or MDF like me, measure it and make a template in whichever software package, I used visio.

 

Use the template you createin the software to decide where to drill the holes. I drilled them first and am now minutely adjusting the visio template to make it match the holes in the MDF. Its stupid, hard work and I think I might start again.

 

Anyway, this is the gear panel:

 

picture.php?albumid=540&pictureid=3712

 

I am definitely going to redo this but I do like the potentionomiter as the flap device with an actual screen grab of the flap instrument.

 

One big problem but is stupidly small. How do you make a clean 12mm hole in laminated (or not laminated) in paper?

 

Im messing around with a stanley knife and the measurements of the wood I cut are now down to my knife skills. not happy because it is a mess!! Advice would be appreciated.

Edited by Mr_Burns
Posted

One big problem but is stupidly small. How do you make a clean 12mm hole in laminated (or not laminated) in paper?

 

Im messing around with a stanley knife and the measurements of the wood I cut are now down to my knife skills. not happy because it is a mess!! Advice would be appreciated.

Never tried it myself but try this;

Find two smooth pieces of wood and sandwich the paper inbetween.

Now you can just drill the hole. You will have to get creative to figure out where the hole needs to be drilled though.

 

Maybe you could try sandwiching it inbetween transparent sheets of lexan.

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Posted
What's the mirror for? :D

Indeed ... the mirror is to see if my wife is behind me .... crazy.gif

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Posted

Not sure why you'd use a potentiometer for the flaps (or how), a three position switch would be better.

 

For the 12mm hole, get two pieces of wood, drill a hole in one (either a 12mm hole or just a pilot hole). Put the paper on the undrilled wood, and put the drilled wood on top of the paper using the hole to align it. Then just clamp it all together and drill through the existing hole with a 12mm drill bit at a low speed. The wood serves to clamp the paper and keep it taught so that the drill bit only tears the unclamped paper in the hole.

Posted
Not sure why you'd use a potentiometer for the flaps (or how), a three position switch would be better.

 

 

 

Sorry it is a 10 position and clicks between them, the 3 position ones didnt have 3 positions in the 90 degree segment so I couldnt get the affect. I only plan on using 3 positions though so it 'should' act the same.

Posted

Hi Mr Barns, :)

 

Just wanted to let you know that I upgraded my cockpit with UFC and it is fully functional.

I've improvised with key stickers which I needed for programming the Macros. Shortly I will focus on production of key-sticker design which you provided.

 

Have a nice weekend, :thumbup:

 

Hammer

 

34rzypv.jpg

  • Like 1

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Posted
Hi Mr Barns, :)

 

Just wanted to let you know that I upgraded my cockpit with UFC and it is fully functional.

I've improvised with key stickers which I needed for programming the Macros. Shortly I will focus on production of key-sticker design which you provided.

 

Have a nice weekend, :thumbup:

 

Hammer

 

34rzypv.jpg

mladen. i can see in your picture that you have an FMC of a Boeing 737.Just a couple of questions. This FMC is Plug and Play, i want say, USB connection? . And, what kind of parameters you change for work in DCS A10-C? looks like very very good .

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Posted
mladen. i can see in your picture that you have an FMC of a Boeing 737.Just a couple of questions. This FMC is Plug and Play, i want say, USB connection? . And, what kind of parameters you change for work in DCS A10-C? looks like very very good .

 

Here you go

http://www.plugnfly.com/index_en.html

Google of USB FMC returns several other links.

Pity no one is doing this for the A-10 FMC or UFC

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cw1.png

Posted
Hi Mr Barns, :)

 

Just wanted to let you know that I upgraded my cockpit with UFC and it is fully functional.

I've improvised with key stickers which I needed for programming the Macros. Shortly I will focus on production of key-sticker design which you provided.

 

Have a nice weekend, :thumbup:

 

Hammer

 

 

Great stuff, did you use HID for the interface?

 

Its a inexpensive solution!

Posted
Great stuff, did you use HID for the interface?

 

Its a inexpensive solution!

Indeed it's inexpensive but effective/working solution. :thumbup:

Yes I am using HID but I still have to master it. There are still some issues to figure out .. like: after macro programming has been done do I have to (each time) first select "Find" function and then press one of the assigned keys so HID will recognise the device (in our case mini USB keyboard).

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Posted
mladen. i can see in your picture that you have an FMC of a Boeing 737.Just a couple of questions. This FMC is Plug and Play, i want say, USB connection? . And, what kind of parameters you change for work in DCS A10-C? looks like very very good .

Hi juankeiko (Juan), :smilewink:

 

First of all my apologies for late response; I just overlooked your questions. :huh:

The FMC is NOT functional in DCS A-10C simulator. It only works in Microsoft Flight Simulator. I was using it in Level-D Boeing 767 (still do now and then).

It is USB version but you do need "drivers" to be functional in MSFS.

 

Hopefully this answers your questions.

 

Regards,

 

Mladen

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16GB Corsair CMZ16GX3M4A1600C9 (4X4GB)| GTX 1080 + GTX750 |520 GB SSD | PSU Antec HCP-850

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  • 2 weeks later...
Posted

Its not exciting but I got my cougars today and if they are F-16 copies I have a non aggressive anecdotal comment.

 

I was an asset manager on the Eurofighter project, now Typhoon and part of my remit were the management of the MFDD's.

 

For EFA, MFDD it is Multi Function Head Down Display (MFDD) and it used to be Smiths Industries who made the box and Sirio Panels who made the key panel.... work share you understand.

 

The MHDD's started out as CRT displays and through the development became LCD displays, the keys were also programmable so each key could say a different thing, in EFA there are 3 displays and they are bigger than the Cougers but it appears smaller than the F35 or F22.

 

These just seem really small, any comments from Cougar users as to how they perform on the job?!

 

Ive just marked out the cutouts for the panel, next few weeks cut and paint. I am looking at some connectors so each panel is detachable rather than the Leo Bodnar or GGG screw connectors.

Posted

They are a bit small yes, but they do an honest price/quality job.

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Posted
Its not exciting but I got my cougars today and if they are F-16 copies I have a non aggressive anecdotal comment.

 

They are accurate size for an F-16. The A-10C has larger MFCDs (5" instead of the 4.25" of a F-16 if I remember right). In addition the A-10C MFDs have a rotary switch in the lower left and an additional horizontal rocker in the lower left.

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