fael097's a-10c CHEAP cockpit build

[fael097]

so I decided to start my progression thread.

I don't have anything yet, so I'll accept any kind of suggestions here.

 

I'm first creating the LASTE control panel, should be simple and easy enough, and also get me started on it, test materials, etc.

 

my initial idea is to use acrylic only, I'll buy a sheet and make 3 plates out of it. (if i dont need different thickness for the plates, if i do, guess i'll have to buy 2 or 3 sheets). the base plate and the middle plate should simply be sanded and painted black. I have no idea what kind of paint to use, so i appreciate any ideas.

 

the top plate, wich i believe is the light plate, im going to sand, then apply one coat of white paint, and then I'll see if I can get some adhesive letters, to place on top of the white paint, so i can apply the black coat (or coats, not sure how much im gonna need until i test) over the letters, and when it gets dry, i'll remove the adhesives, and see if i get nice engraved labels. not sure if i need to apply a clear coat over it, I assume it should be good to fix the paint and prevent premature scratches, but idk if it would make my black painting too glossy. gotta test it first.

 

for the electronic part, i'll have to use a Leo Bodnar BU0836 (unless someone comes up with a cheaper one, perhaps one with more slots for the other plates, or i'll have to use a usb hub i guess) cuz thats about all i know in terms of electronics, buying a usb game board and assigning switches to it. the bad part is that in the end you'll need many boards, but thats what i know, and can afford.

 

i bought two 2-position toggle switches, one 3-position, and a simple push button, that i'm wiring to the board. the bad part is that my panels wont be easily detachable, as many panels will share the same usb board, but perhaps i can figure out a solution for this later on.

 

for now im in a small apartment, so no place to make a physical cockpit, but i plan to make a simple wooden structure later, and attach my panels to it, then cover the sides with a sheet of plywood painted gray, or something like that. (a nice warthog shark mouth painted on the side would look great)

 

ah, almost forgot to mention, my HOTAS is a thrustmaster t-flight hotas X, wich i plan to modify later, put 4 position switches all over it, like the warthog hotas, but thats just plans.

 

so here's my project so far:

 

the 3 plates separated: (im still not sure on the dimensions, specially the thickness, gonna need confirmation before i actually build them)

 

I also have no idea on what font i should use. Used arial narrow bold for now, but doesnt look like the real deal.

 

so again, feel free to make suggestions, comments, critiques, questions, anything, i'd appreciate!

 

cheers,

Rafael

 

:pilotfly: :joystick:

[fael097]

do some more research the information is out there by the way you forgot the switch guard for the EAC switch

 

doing research at the moment. by the way, I didn't find pics where the EAC switch has a guard, could you show an example?

[fael097]

pics of the switches i bought, not a big deal, but i believe they'll do the trick.

 

[fael097]

cool, but you sure thats from the C model? my only base is the game, and other cockpit builds, and I never saw that on any of those

[fael097]

rendered version of the plates put together:

 

also, an approach of the backlight with sub surface scattering:

 

will post more pics tomorrow!

[hog_driver111th]

Hey Fael,

 

Just incase you weren't aware... you could always just buy the Thrustmaster Warthog which includes this panel... just a thought.

[fael097]

Take a look at these pictures look at the panel directly behind the throttle on the panel look at the left side.

I have been know to be incorrect but I don't think so.

The panel has been like this from A-10A days further reference can be found in .

The Modern Hog Guide page 75 bottom picture page 76 middle picture.

 

The second switch from the left is correctly labeled NORM on the top and DIS on the bottom.

 

There are items in DCS A-10C that are incorrect but there very few they have done a great job with limited resources.

indeed, looks like the switch guard is there. gonna see how i can make it.

looks like along these 7 years or so, you learned a lot about the hog. do you happen to know if the backlight lightens all labels, or just some, and wich ones?

the thrustmaster warthog hotas doesnt have all of them lighten, so i was wondering how the real pit works.

thanks

Edited May 13, 2011 by fael097

[fael097]

Hey Fael,

 

Just incase you weren't aware... you could always just buy the Thrustmaster Warthog which includes this panel... just a thought.

 

yep, im aware, unfortunately paying like $500 for that is too much for me at the moment.

but thanks for the heads up mate!

[fael097]

alright, so here are the plans, i didnt follow the real measures to the letter, to make it better for me to cut, but should look pretty similar:

 

 

now i just have to decide where to place holes for the led lights.

Edited May 13, 2011 by fael097

[KLaFaille]

As an FYI, The backplate and light plate are too wide and the vertical and horizontal spacing between fastener holes is too great. In relation to the real spec.

 

Somewhere in my build thread are specs and proper dimensions, if you are inclined.

[fael097]

hey Stang

 

I saw some blueprints in other progression threads. one of them showed it between 140 and 160, and the other one showed 5 3/4 inches, wich would be like 146mm. i rounded up to 150mm to better fit my projects, make it easier to put things in place, without having to deal with broken numbers and stuff, and also I'm cutting the acrylic myself, not sure if I'll be able to cut dimensions precisely.

 

hope it helps!

[fael097]

As an FYI, The backplate and light plate are too wide and the vertical and horizontal spacing between fastener holes is too great. In relation to the real spec.

 

Somewhere in my build thread are specs and proper dimensions, if you are inclined.

 

indeed I am. I was rounding some measures because i lacked real information. gonna check your thread right now. thanks bud!

[KLaFaille]

I am trying to keep my drawings authentic and as I complete them, I plan on posting the dims and the solid works files for all that want them. I figure this way everyone will benefit hopefully.

 

Certainly a better idea than taking a persons work that they offered up for free, and selling it as your own for profit, just saying....

 

Red

Edited May 15, 2011 by KLaFaille

[Flim]

Hey Klafaille,

 

what is your point?

Edited May 15, 2011 by Flim

[KLaFaille]

Hey Klafaille,

 

I know what you are referring to and I'm pretty sure you weren't there..

 

Ok

Edited May 15, 2011 by KLaFaille
Transparency

[Flim]

I'm sure this guy does not want his thread littered with old issues from a different forum.... so lets help fael097 so he can build a pit.

 

 

Btw, I have a full front console cad file of mine ( designed by myself ) that might help you, If your interested let me know.

Edited May 15, 2011 by Flim

[fael097]

no problem, Flim, I'm new to this forum, but I know that drama happens everywhere.

 

I speak for myself, with less than a month asking stuff on a-10 sub forums, a guy decided to bash me and give me negative reputation whenever he could, and I still don't know why. after a while he deleted his messages... perhaps he doesn't like people asking stuff around. or people who can't afford uber expensive cockpit instruments. who knows?!

 

and Red, I was reading through your cockpit thread, and It gave me many ideas, thanks for sharing them!

 

hope I can come up with good ideas aswell, and perhaps help someone.

 

I'll update my thread tomorrow, and post some new pics!

cheers

Edited May 15, 2011 by fael097

[Deadman]

I gave you one neg rep for wasting my time. I answer why in pm and you can't figure it out you gave me neg rep on an unrelated post. I deleted all of my answers because you did not use it and waged your own:thumbup: You might try read and researching for information before you spam all the threads with question expecting answers from people that have taken the time and effort to read through the material. Have a good one I payed for my information you do the same.

Edited May 15, 2011 by Deadman

[Deadman]

Both

[fael097]

alright, so i decided to use a thickness of 2mm, for each one of the plates.

that way i can use the same acrylic sheet for all 3 plates, and it will look about right.

 

 

i found a font that looks like the real engravings on the a-10c panel. gonna do some tests and post later

[fael097]

here's the font, it's called Redring 1969.

 

 

I'm deciding how many and where to place the led lights, but in the software, It's requiring too many lights. guess I'll just cut the holes, and decide how many lights i'll use later, when i have the acrylic plate. can't calculate precisely how the light is gonna spread through the acrylic surface, with a coat of white paint, but I assumed 3 or 4 lights should be enough.

[pitbldr]

Hey, try the MS33558 font or the "Techni Bold" font. I think both are very close to the actual font used in the A-10.

 

You can find the MS33558 font here: http://www.simpits.org/fileproc/showfiles.php

 

I don't have a link for the other font.

[fael097]

guys, I actually tried that font, and it looks similar to what we see in DCS a-10c.

 

but I went to that other font i showed, because of a picture Deadman posted in this thread a few days ago. a close picture of the a-10c LASTE panel, and the font was just like the one i used on my last pic, with round corners, etc.

 

unfortunately Deadman removed his post, and I can't find that image on google, but you could try asking him for that picture again, perhaps he's kind and will show it again!

 

btw, does anybody know if the backlight on the real warthog is green, or actually cyan, like in the dcs pit?

[fael097]

you can't really see very well, but perhaps it helps a little:

 

also, check the thrustmaster warthog hotas, the font they use looks quite close to the real a-10

Edited May 16, 2011 by fael097

[Deadman]

Just an FYI your panel Dimensions are incorrect for the AN/ARC 186

Hi Guys

 

I tried the MS33558 font and it looks great. I discovered a problem in SolidWorks though. Whenever I used the letter D, SolidWorks would see it as having "open contours"; which means you can't color it in (or at least I couldn't). This could just be my setup though...not sure.

 

The Techni Bold font also looks great and is very simular to MS33558.

 

In the drawing below, all the text is MS3358 with the exception of the letters:

SQDLS

LOAD

DF

 

The letters above are done in Techni Bold

 

 

Just FYI

 

Hope it helps :thumbup: