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Posted

Hi Tom,

I use opencockpits big switches. At 2 euros apiece they are good quality with a nice click action and i have used in them panels from Linden, Y2kiah and Agrasyuk without any probs, maybe worth a look ??.

for glue i am using Tensol 12 which is designed for acrylics but stinks to high heaven, use only in a WELL ventilated area.

all the best Grayson

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Posted

Thanks Tom

PC: Asus P8Z77-M Mainboard; Intel i5-3570K (4x3,4Ghz) mit Scythe Mugen 3 CPU Kühler; 16Gb Corsair XMS3 1600Mhz; Nvidia GTX570 1280mb; Samsung 830 SSD; Samsung HDD

Flight Sim Gear: TM Warthog; Saitek Pro Pedals; TM Cougars on an 19" screen; TrackIR 5 w/ trackclip pro; Logitech G35 headset

Posted
Hi Tom,

I use opencockpits big switches. At 2 euros apiece they are good quality with a nice click action and i have used in them panels from Linden, Y2kiah and Agrasyuk without any probs, maybe worth a look ??.

for glue i am using Tensol 12 which is designed for acrylics but stinks to high heaven, use only in a WELL ventilated area.

all the best Grayson

 

 

Do you have a link .. I know their site but do not find any simple switch :cry:

Posted

Hi Tom,

Sorry, i would post the link if i knew how to ?, bit of a duffer at that sort of thing !!!, anyway nav to O/C- hardware-switches or search part number 4TS7. Also take a look at the switches with the white plastic tops, take em off and you have a nice looking replica of a mil-spec switch, but at 6.50 euro each i won`t be using too many. Hope this helps, Grayson

Posted (edited)

There is no need to purchase a toggle switch with a cap from them if you don't need the cap there are plenty of cheep switches listed.

http://www.opencockpits.com/catalog/hardware-switches-pushbuttons-korrys-c-24_55.html

Edited by Deadman

https://forum.dcs.world/topic/133818-deadmans-cockpit-base-plans/#comment-133824

CNCs and Laser engravers are great but they can't do squat with out a precise set of plans.

  • 2 weeks later...
Posted

Thank you for the links !

 

But the Switches and rotarys are the same I have here.

Most Panels are now fitted but on some I have to find smaller potis and rotarys. Next week I will make my sidepanels new and the panelholder cabinet a Little thinner, maybe than will fit the Panels. Right now on some Panels are the Switches to bright to the sides.

 

Today I nearly finished the UFC ... 10 hours soldering but it worked directly incl. all LEDs installed :thumbup:

 

So I am looking Forward for all the Panels, only CDU becomes hard cause the Monitor :cry:

Posted

UFC build

 

Yihaaa .....

 

The last 2 days I build my new UFC from Linden.

Great, great, great !!! :thumbup:

 

# Soldering the LEDs was a nightmare, but it worked for me.

# Secons Step was soldering bridges for the Brydling-Board Connections. I

have to use only one plug for the whole UFC, diverted in 2 strings.

# Next step was soldering the diodes on the Switches.

# Ribbon cable to the diodes on the switches.

# Green LEDs 12 Volt from the cockit illumination mounted

 

Test: Connecting the whole unit to the Brydling-IO-Card. It works directly ... many many luck :lol:

 

# Gluing the box together

# Mounting the front panel with screws

# Gluing the buttons to the switches with Loctite, hopefully it holds

 

Next steps:

 

# Painting or gluing decals

# Fixing the ribbon cable with glue

# Mointing 3 LEDs for the MasterCaution

 

TESTING .......

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  • 3 weeks later...
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