9.JG27 DavidRed Posted January 26, 2014 Posted January 26, 2014 hey guys! dont really know whether this is due to the 127 patch, but today we noticed, that after starting up the engine, both rads manually fully open, the engine temps will rise... even with the throttle completely on idle(prop pitch full forward or full backwards doesnt make a difference), the temps, both coolant and oil, will rise until they reach their maximum amounts on the gauges...oil temperature rises even above the last "100" mark... after reaching those max temps, i stayed for another felt twenty minutes on the ground, and suspected that the engine is about to die every moment...but it didnt...so i got bored, and put the mixture back to idle to see how the temps will behave... well, first they both stayed at max...pretty long...after another maybe ~10minutes, the oil temperature began to slowly decrease. the coolant temperature though didnt decrease at all... so watched the temps for another felt ~10minutes, but the coolant temp needle didnt move at all.... bug?
9.JG27 DavidRed Posted January 26, 2014 Author Posted January 26, 2014 well, i just tried, but for some reason it doesnt let me upload the track. if i will manage i will do so, but even if, it would be way faster to just try to reproduce it, since the track is really long and lots of stuff is going on before the actual overheating test took place...
BitMaster Posted January 26, 2014 Posted January 26, 2014 (edited) Hmmm, makes me wonder, after the 1.2.7 final update and the note that you can actually cause the thick oil to blow a gasket I was double cautious not to overheat the engine before airborne. Before the last update I usually opened both radiators with L-ALT + A + S held down for like 30 seconds to open both radiators and let the engine warm up for at least 2 minutes, then taxi to the runway and take off. That way I almost always did not have an engine failure while accelerating down the strip. With 1.2.7 final I kept both radiators at AUTOMATIC and have my RPM at around 1000 and wait for the oil pressure to become "green" to not risk too much pressure that would cause an oil leakage due to overpressure caused by THICK oil ( thanks to my ol' Harley I know this trick ). You might wanna try this and see if it works for you, the key is the oil pressure caused by thick oil, at least in RL this is what causes blown gaskets and oil pressure hoses when going to high RPM. The temp of water coolant is not really the important thing because first you warm up the engine, the engine warms up the oil and the coolant only comes to matter when both are at a temp where the coolant switch opens and allows water to cycle through the engine. Just like with any car engine. Diesel engines teach you the same, never rev them high when they are cold or the cold oil will "explode" your engine because you just can squeeze that much thick oil through a tiny hole, only thin hot oil will go through without causing over-pressure leading to all the failures described. When I "chase" my P-51 through the sky, I always have my radiators to manually OPEN by holding L-ALT + A + S for a felt "half a minute" ( or listen to the sound of the moving parts ). Keep an eye on oil pressure, this will tell you ALL you need to know. If your pressure is ok, usually the rest is ok too. Too low pressure means TOO HOT and too low pressure means TOO COLD. That simple. All engines, regardless which make, model, manufacturer, 2-stroke, 4-stroke, work this way when heating up: Metal-->Oil-->Water since you can't read the metals temp, stick your eye to the oil pressure as an indicator for your overall engines temps and judge by the pressure. If you read the water temp, it could be too late since your oil pressure is too low already for too long ( causing no lube anymore ). In cold conditions you have to ride your engine warm, it will almost certainly NOT reach operation temps when just idling or flying around at fixed modest rpm. You have to gently work your RPM up while watching the oil. You can fly from Batumi to New York with a cold engine if you don't know how to warm it up in really cold conditions. Most certainly you will blow the engine before flying over London... frankly speaking. I have blown two foot gaskets on my Harley when I got it new..many many moons ago, racing with my friends. They had small 4-cylinder car engines that needed only 2 minutes to be HIGH-RPM safe, I still won the race, for the price of 11h work to get the gaskets fixed twice. ever since I have understood what the technician told me about large displacement engines and cold, thick oil ! Bit Edited January 26, 2014 by BitMaster Gigabyte Aorus X570S Master - Ryzen 5900X - Gskill 64GB 3200/CL14@3600/CL14 - Sapphire Nitro+ 7800XT - 4x Samsung 980Pro 1TB - 1x Samsung 870 Evo 1TB - 1x SanDisc 120GB SSD - Heatkiller IV - MoRa3-360LT@9x120mm Noctua F12 - Corsair AXi-1200 - TiR5-Pro - Warthog Hotas - Saitek Combat Pedals - Asus XG27ACG QHD 180Hz - Corsair K70 RGB Pro - Win11 Pro/Linux - Phanteks Evolv-X
9.JG27 DavidRed Posted January 28, 2014 Author Posted January 28, 2014 having a brief look at your post, all your points seem valid,...but honestly, did you read my post at all? again, both rads fully open, throttle and rpm lever back to idle,...wait and watch the temps.
-MadCat- Posted January 28, 2014 Posted January 28, 2014 The lack of airflow through the radiator can overheat your engine on the ramp, at idle. As contradictory as it sounds, throttle up to 1200 ... 1300 rpm to blow some more air through the radiator. Radiator doors are supposed to always be fully opened on ground operation. Put them to auto on the runway, prior to takeoff. Warm up the engine at ~1300 rpm. Don't rev higher before oil temp is at least 40°C, then idle no lower than 1000 rpm. That way you should have no trouble with the engine, at least I never have. Greetings MadCat Link -> Stateful button commands for many DCS modules
G00dnight Posted January 29, 2014 Posted January 29, 2014 what he is saying is the temps rise to max but it did not affect the engine, Engine still running didn't sieze or die is this normal ? AMD A8-5600K @ 4GHz, Radeon 7970 6Gig, 16 Gig Ram, Win 10 , 250 gig SSD, 40" Screen + 22 inch below, Track Ir, TMWH, Saitek combat pedals & a loose nut behind the stick :thumbup:
-MadCat- Posted January 29, 2014 Posted January 29, 2014 It's not the high temps in the first place that make an engine fail, it doesn't melt or anything. It's wear and tear, which is greatly increased with too high temps. I didn't engineer that engine, so cannot tell about the safety margin between the gauge markings and when the temperatures really are too high for the used materials and the stress at high power. Now he was just at idle, run the engine with those high temps at high power and I promise it will soon start to run rough and fail quickly if you don't reduce power significantly. Greetings MadCat Link -> Stateful button commands for many DCS modules
Annelid Posted January 31, 2014 Posted January 31, 2014 This never happens when you have weather (wind) set to 0. You can idle all day long. Maybe a bug with the radiator. Test by having a strong wind not facing you when idling.
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