MMjoy

[rabidscoobie]

If each device has his own controller, need place a "shift" in each.

 

For make one "shift" in hardware (MMjoy2) work for both you need leave the throttle "brainless" and use the controller inside joystick, like is X-52 HOTAS.

 

 

Would that be reversed?

Leave stick brainless and use controller board in throttle?

I can use the x52 throttle alone but cant use stick without throttle. Would make more sense to me the way you have said,leave brain in stick.

 

Unless I mixing something up.

 

Also was I correct in my wiring diagram above?

 

Thanks again.

Edited April 27, 2017 by rabidscoobie

[Sokol1_br]

Yes, can leave stick "brainless" but the most important axis in controllers is X,Y (they control your fly), and the more short wires you use in this axes better, less choice to pick "noise", a bad trade for a "shift" button.

 

The diagram looks OK, a 6x3 (18 buttons) matrix, need solder the diodes in one pin of each switch.

 

But... :)

 

This implicates in make changes in PCB under HAT's because there already are a matrix (what I did in "Phoenix" was erase the PCB trails and use wires in switches pins instead, ugly but work).

 

POV HAT connections can be in any line, since MMjoySetup allow you define what button will press POV HAT, their position is not fix in matrix like in BU0836 matrix (or are in the matrix used in Combatstick PCB).

Edited April 27, 2017 by Sokol1_br

[rabidscoobie]

Yes, can leave stick "brainless" but the most important axis in controllers is X,Y (they control your fly), and the more short wires you use in this axes better, less choice to pick "noise".

 

The diagram looks OK, a 6x3 (18 buttons) matrix, need solder the diodes in one pin of each switch.

 

But... :)

 

This implicates in make changes in PCB under HAT's because there already are a matrix (what I did in "Phoenix" was erase the PCB trails and using wires instead, ugly but work).

 

POV HAT connections can be in any line, since MMjoySetup allow you define what button will press POV HAT, their position is not fix in matrix like in BU0836 matrix (or are in the matrix used in Combatstick PCB).

 

 

Ok thanks.

So looks like I have the idea correct.

If that is all the buttons I have in total then I would do the 3 down 6 across switches.

 

Once I get the stick in I'll look it over and decide if I want to add another button or 2.

 

You mentioned the diodes, did I have mine right? or did I miss something?

I thought I had the diode on one pin of each switch?

 

I'm not too sure about my ability yet to erase the PCB trails.

 

As for the the Shift modifier,Im just gonna set one up only in the stick and keep the brain in both....seems more simple and less complicated for learner.

 

Thank you again.

[Sokol1_br]

Once I get the stick in I'll look it over and decide if I want to add another button or 2.

 

You mentioned the diodes, did I have mine right? or did I miss something?

I thought I had the diode on one pin of each switch?

 

I'm not too sure about my ability yet to erase the PCB trails.

 

Your diagram include diodes, is the "-|<-" symbol, what I mean is they need to be welded in one pin of each switches, like in this example (BU0836 matrix), inside joystick the matrix loose this "chessboard" similarity of diagram.

 

 

BTW - In this BU0836 matrix, the POV HAT can be only wired in ROW 6 - in MMJoy2 can be in any ROW.

 

If you understand this, will understand the matrix and why diodes:

 

Imagine a electric signal coming trough COLUMNS lines (e.g. the orange), when the switch S1 is ON this signal will reach the ROW line (gray), but the diode in switch allow the signal travel only in one direction (the >, black strip), so the signal don't interfere in the next switches.

 

Without diodes when 3/4 buttons are pressed simultaneous a "ghost" buttons will appear ON. ;)

 

Erase trails means cut PCB trails near switches, with X-Acto or similar hobby knife, Dremel cut disk... easy to do. This will interrupt the existent connections between switches and allow you use your matrix diagram.

 

The alternative is "decode" the existent matrix in PCB (laborious/tedious to do) and adapt your diagram to this matrix.

 

Matter of choices. :D

Edited April 27, 2017 by Sokol1_br
Info

[rabidscoobie]

Yes these symbols "-|<-" are my diodes.

So my diagram is workable. I should have labeled "-|<-" as diodes to make it more understandable.

 

Quote:

"Erase trails means cut PCB trails near switches, with X-Acto or similar hobby knife, Dremel cut disk... easy to do. This will interrupt the existent connections between switches and allow you use your matrix diagram."

 

No problem thats easy enough, I was thinking you meant to trace them,now that would be a bit much for me.

 

Then I think I understand enough to accomplish what Im wanting to do.

 

You have been a huge help so far.

Thank you.

[rabidscoobie]

OK been working at the wiring a bit today.

 

I can wire up the 4 post switches in matrix fine, but only using 3 posts.not an issue.

 

But those Hat switches have me stumped.

Im using 1x 8way,1x 4way and 1x 2 way. All the hat switches have 2 posts to wire to. If I try to use the same wiring at the regular buttons I get nothing on the hats. Ive seen 2 different wiring diagrams for the hats.

 

1. One diagram shows to wire the hats in matrix just like the other buttons....

2. The diagram you posted above has 2 switches wire into the button matrix then the other 2 switches wire straight to the PCB.

 

Im sure Im just overlooking something simple.will mess with it some more but any info is most helpful.

 

Thanks.

[Sokol1_br]

All the hat switches have 2 posts to wire to. If I try to use the same wiring at the regular buttons I get nothing on the hats. Ive seen 2 different wiring diagrams for the hats.

 

Is need check if HAT don't have hidden trails in PCB under the HAT connecting various pins - if are (this happens to me in one CH HAT) this will mess the matrix even cutting visible trails in the other side.

 

 

2. The diagram you posted above has 2 switches wire into the button matrix then the other 2 switches wire straight to the PCB.

 

This is for show that COLUMN's 3 and 4 share buttons connections with HAT. In the example connections is limited for show how is, if draw all possibles buttons became a "spider web". :)

 

When wire all 36 possibles buttons will see that every COLUMN and every ROW is shared in same way. Each ROW goes to up to 6 buttons for all 6 COLUMNS and vice versa.

 

This example is for BU0836 6x6 matrix, but you use different arrange (e.g. 8x4) is same principle.

Edited May 2, 2017 by Sokol1_br

[rabidscoobie]

Thanks Sokol.

 

Yup there was a tiny, and I mean tiny trace on 1 switch I overlooked. It was easy to miss. Could only see it under magnifier and a really bright light.

 

I got at least one hat working.....at least looks that way.

 

Thanks again.

[rabidscoobie]

Good new and bad news.

 

Good is I got it working......

Bad is the damn USB ports are very weak,both boards ports or either off or loose and not working.

I even dremeled off the little catches that are on the USB cable so not to have to pull hard on the cable. I even secured the cable inside the stick so it would not cause any stress at all on the port.

 

Nope none of it worked.

 

So next question,

Is there a way to solder on a cable straight to the PCB itself?

I know I could solder PWR and GND onto the VCC and GND pins, but anyone know if the same could be dont for the data?

Im assuming the data leads have to go where the USB should be but didnt know if the other pins on the PCB would work also.

[Sokol1_br]

Yes, in this Chinese Arduino clone the micro connector is very fragile, what I do is secure the cable over a board - I use a sheet of plastic, and fit the Arduino in this board. Can use breadboard for this.

 

 

You can solder the cable direct in PCB, but the space is very tight ~1.25mm is need good solder skill.

 

Look for USB mini-B pinnout in the Web.

 

And manipulate the cable can broken the solders again, the cable need be solid attached to Arduino.

 

Try get a remove connector like this:

 

https://www.pololu.com/product/2592

 

An can use 40 vias HDD cable for interface between this connector and Arduino, their wires is spaced in similar way.

Edited May 5, 2017 by Sokol1_br

[rabidscoobie]

LOL.

 

I did almost the exact same thing plus a few inches on the cable I used a zip tie that allowed to mount a screw through it and screwed it into one of the sticks original PCB screw holes.

 

Still broke. I guess it doesnt hurt to try and solder,its already junk as it is.

[rabidscoobie]

Well 1 ProMicro USB is completely off and useless.

 

The other I thought was bad usb port coming off but nope,just bricked but I was able to recover it.

Now working again. So far everything looks good. Just gotta finish tidying up everything.

 

Next replacement board I may just try and epoxy the USB port. These PCB's really need the USB pins to solder through to the back of the board to make them a bit stronger.

[rabidscoobie]

Everything works great mostly.

 

My pitch axis will sort of spike when pulling up or back on stick. Forward/Down works fine.

 

So not sure if its the programing with the ProMicro or a flaky pot.

I suspect a flaky pot but not sure.Any ideas.

 

Here is a pic,areas marked between the green is my issue.

 

[rabidscoobie]

Also while in game a couple buttons act as if Im letting off the button really fast even if I hold it down.

 

I know its something in the MMjoy setup but Im not sure what I need to do to correct this.

Edited May 5, 2017 by rabidscoobie

[rabidscoobie]

The spike was just a loose wire that I missed soldering.

And the buttons that were acting somehow got changed to switch mode...dont remember doing that but all is working great now.

 

Thanks for all the help.

[Sokol1_br]

Since this pots are used is good idea wash then internally with isopropyl alcohol.

 

IN MMJoySetup are various options for buttons, maybe are setting for send only a pulse.

[rabidscoobie]

Since this pots are used is good idea wash then internally with isopropyl alcohol.

 

IN MMJoySetup are various options for buttons, maybe are setting for send only a pulse.

 

 

Nah everything is working great. Pots are good now that I solder + wire better.

 

Button issue was somehow a couple buttons were switched to "Switch ON" mode or something like that causing the buttons to act really weird.

 

Tried it out in a game and everything was good to go. Well it was overly sensitive to stick movement,had to to turn it down a bit.

 

Now I just need to fabricate a palm rest that sits higher,my hands are not that big. Thinking some 2inch or so Foam Pipe Insulation might work, just need to get some. I have 1" but needs to be a tad thicker.

[Sokol1_br]

I did one with Epoxy putty. Is detachable.

 

 

After paint in black - bud don't find the pictures.

 

Other idea is shortened the grip:

 

http://snomhf.exofire.net/fighterRunt.html

[rabidscoobie]

Good skills with those.

 

Im sure I could do either one of those,I'd be leaning more to the putty version though.

 

Im also a scale modeler. I do alot of custom scratch building and parts casting so I know I could make them look like they were meant to be that way.

Just most of my tools are in storage since I moved a few months back....I miss my garage.

 

How well does the putty version stay in place?

[Sokol1_br]

Just be pressure.

In the lower part of Epoxi piece- more thin I insert a piece of steel wire for reinforce and create spring effect and a small piece of aluminum that allow use a bolt to secure in place,

but this bolt end not needed.

 

Cover the grip with adhesive tap.

Put the Epoxy, mold the shape, leave dry.

Remove, sand and paint.

Put back.

[Sokol1_br]

For the case of broken USB mini-B connector in Arduino PRO Micro.

 

host imagecertificity.com

 

Tip from Avia-su.

 

Edited May 12, 2017 by Sokol1_br

[rabidscoobie]

i'll give that a try. The broken one is just an extra now.

[Brewnix]

For the case of broken USB mini-B connector in Arduino PRO Micro.

 

host imagecertificity.com

 

Tip from Avia-su.

 

 

Thanks for posting that pic! I am saving that in my MMjoy archive of pics! So looking at one of my Promicro boards i realized that those pins to the usb jack and pads before the resistors are very tiny.

Edited May 12, 2017 by Brewnix

[Nick-Nitro]

24 bit shift register uploaded.

 

 

 

ORDER LINK

 

Hi to All,

 

Sorry for quoting this old post, but i found it while searching for a PCB that can replace the PCB inside the thrustmaster warthog Stick.

 

Since the register shifting seems the same, i was thinking if i can take this PCB and use it to make an alternative grip for Warthog base.

 

second thing, does those 4021 are okay for this job?

4021 ebay link

 

thank you for answers men ;)

Edited May 21, 2017 by Nick-Nitro

[debolestis]

You can but it is a bit bigger than original.