lunaticfringe Posted August 27, 2016 Share Posted August 27, 2016 Question- is there anyway to fully reset controller axis response in MMJoy? On MMJoy2 with an Arduino Pro Micro, wired up with hall senors, everything worked fine from the onset. Wonderful response, rock solid all around, calibrated right up perfectly. Used it for a while, and now the registered values aren't just spiking, they're off the charts. And it doesn't matter if I swap inputs arround- reconfigure anywhere on the board for internal axis- send the instructions to the board, and watch the numbers whirl. Any ideas? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brewnix Posted September 25, 2016 Share Posted September 25, 2016 (edited) EDIT-I think I wired it wrong-EDIT Edited September 25, 2016 by Brewnix [sIGPIC][/sIGPIC] Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brewnix Posted September 27, 2016 Share Posted September 27, 2016 (edited) Is there a specific rotary encoder to use with MMjoy? I have bought a few on ebay and when i wire them up one button is constant on and when i spin the knob either direction they alternate between the 2 buttons on,off,on,off.So iam thinking i have encoders that our normally on. Or is it possible i have configured mmjoy wrong? So currently i have mount 6 encoders to a board i have made in Fritzing and upload to OshPark.. Please disreguard the BC and BR marks at the right side of the board I marked them wrong But i pretty sure its wired correctly. Heres a JPG just to give idea on how its built. Then how would I program mmjoy is there a eample i can use. Thanks! Edited September 27, 2016 by Brewnix [sIGPIC][/sIGPIC] Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sokol1_br Posted September 27, 2016 Author Share Posted September 27, 2016 PCB looks OK - if you have wired middle pin in Row input (can define this in Configurator). This is how encoder should work: "...when i spin the knob either direction they alternate between the 2 buttons on,off,on,off.". This encoder have central click? You need post a picture of how set the buttons for encoder in Configurator - right side. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brewnix Posted September 28, 2016 Share Posted September 28, 2016 Hello Sokol1 thanks for the help, sorry i was incomplete in the last post. It is a encoder with center push and 30 detents this here http://www.ebay.com/itm/5-X-Rotary-Encoder-w-Momentary-ON-Switch-30-Detents-/131285778793?hash=item1e913e0169:g:dw0AAOxygPtStlyP I have the encoder wired as pic above from githhub. This is currently how i have the encoder programmed in mmjoy.Which might be my problem. I have tried multiple settings but i get the same results. So i have populated the boxes for 6 encoders as of right now i have one solder on there cause i was trouble shooting a second board. As soon as i up load my settings instantly one button is on. Which would be button 2 and button 4. When i spin the shaft of encoder clockwise button 2 goes out and button 4 lights up.When i spin counter clockwise same thing the 2 buttons alternate back and forth. I was under the impression the encoder is normally off and when you twist the shaft you get a brief connection to initiate the button press. The setup i was hoping for is you spin the encoder shaft one direction is button 2 and the other direction is another button 4. But the encoder alternates the buttons in both directions. When i go into DCS my 6 encoder is populated in the controller panel i can assign button 4 which is clockwise spin of encoder. I assign it to change radio VHF am freq its idle till i spin the shaft then it moves the number up but does stop cause it appeares the button press is always one as pic at the top. Hence the "on off on off" statement, but i need "off on off on". Appreciate the help hope i made sense cause i am still alittle confused my self. But it works but is backwards [sIGPIC][/sIGPIC] Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sokol1_br Posted September 28, 2016 Author Share Posted September 28, 2016 (edited) You are missing the center press button on Encoder... :) Try set with latest JoySetup (20160809): https://forums.eagle.ru/showpost.php?p=2872695&postcount=124 On H/W.Button you have now option for Normal ON and Normal OFF, an if need use Timer1: http://simhq.com/forum/ubbthreads.php/topics/4268333/Re:_MMJoy_-_Build_your_own_USB#Post4268333 Edited September 28, 2016 by Sokol1_br 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Goblin Posted September 28, 2016 Share Posted September 28, 2016 You need to set up the encoders correctly. An encoder is always a a pair of buttons. Take a look at my setup. It's an older version of MMJoy, but in the encoders column, where you have: 01 02 03 04 05 06 There should be the buttons that are activated by the encoder. I have 5 encoders that are made up of the button pairs 25 31 26 32 27 33 28 34 29 35 See the difference? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brewnix Posted September 29, 2016 Share Posted September 29, 2016 (edited) @Sokol1 Thanks for the link curious i have 2 version of mmjoy, 2015118 and found this one dont remember where-->20160818 currently i have rebooted the promicro to this later one. Is this the same version just newer as the link that you provided?The version on Rghost is 20160812 I am having trouble getting past browser blocking me from R ghost. I think i got the beta version here. https://sites.google.com/site/mmjoyproject/fajly-dla-skacivania Thanks! AH! i am starting to understand. Thank you Goblin. So i have been messing around with how yours is set up. This makes sense at first when i put 6 buttons in the first row.This is how i have it set up now! I have dropped down to one encoder. I have the problem that it activates both buttons spinning in one direction. It did this on previous version of mmjoy. On VHF am radio panel if i bind button 1 to increase freq by 10 and button 2 decrease freq 10 once i spin the encoder the encoder stay activated till spinning the other direction. Also in MMJoy it alternates between buttons still. Maybe i have the wrong encoder? Thanks! Edited September 29, 2016 by Brewnix [sIGPIC][/sIGPIC] Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Goblin Posted September 29, 2016 Share Posted September 29, 2016 Take a look at my setup again, My first encoder activates buttons 25 & 31. These are the two that flashes when I turn the first encoder, so I put them beside eachother on the row for the first encoder. Buttons 25 & 31 will then show as "encoder" in the button list to the right. There I set a timer (I use delay 50ms) both on and off. The buttons in MMJoy will still flash together and seem wrong, because they show the hardware signals. To see if your encoder work correctly you need to 'save sets to device' and test the encoder with 'VKB Button tester'. So for you, if your encoder activates buttons 01 & 02, you must put them beside eachother in the encoder list, not 01 above and 02 below, like you have in the picture. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brewnix Posted September 29, 2016 Share Posted September 29, 2016 Success! ok thanks for pointing out the pairs went over my head i saw on your list button 25 and 26 not 25 and 31. I tried it in VKB button tester working as it should and in game working good just got to mess with the timer now. Appreciate the help! [sIGPIC][/sIGPIC] Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Goblin Posted September 29, 2016 Share Posted September 29, 2016 Ah! :-) Glad it worked! I use encoders for aileron, rudder and elevator trims, and two encoders for sight range and wingspan. Works great! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mega_mozg_13 Posted September 30, 2016 Share Posted September 30, 2016 (edited) new versions of the program will check the correctness of encoder settings. Edited September 30, 2016 by mega_mozg_13 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CyStryker Posted September 30, 2016 Share Posted September 30, 2016 (edited) TM TQS board Gents: First of all... you all are incredible:<) The hobby has come a long way. I purchased a third TM COUGAR HOTAS. It was boxed improperly by the seller and the stock gimbals broke in three parts. I fixed that with Ian Johnson's metal gimbals and Hall sensors... Now the TQS is not working ... ( I need to replace my old vid card in my Win XP system.. yes kept so I could install firmware in TM gear)... if it is the board ., is there a way to by-pass the board and get the buttons, switches and throttle to be recognized? My other Cougar has Mile's magnetic sensors and that works well. I have a another Cougar set I am selling as with the advent of the 3d printing ... parts should not be a problem. I have to test it again to make sure the firmware is properly installed and everything works. Once I do that ......... anyone have an interest in buying the Cougar (in original box and Styrofoam) let me know....... I have no clue how to implement your devices:<) some of you could upgrade the Cougars to a new level:<) Is there a way a new board could replace the boards in .. say a TM Cougar TQS . .... without the soldering etc......... works right out of the box? suggestion on 3d Printing: new metal gimbals for TM Cougar stick........ keeping same design as possible to allow Mile's magnetic sensors to be used... best of all worlds:<) Roland Edited September 30, 2016 by CyStryker Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mega_mozg_13 Posted September 30, 2016 Share Posted September 30, 2016 CyStryker http://forum.il2sturmovik.ru/topic/3027-mmjoy2-i-thrustmaster/page-2#entry398998 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sokol1_br Posted September 30, 2016 Author Share Posted September 30, 2016 (edited) Now the TQS is not working ... Is there a way a new board could replace the boards in... say a TM Cougar TQS ... This is strange, because TQS don't have circuit that "think", is just connections. Look for cracks in PCB surface or smashed/cut wires, is the only things that can cause then not work. I think is viable a 3D printed gimbal (will bearings), but this need better center system, the Cougar original is very "clunck", don't worth replicate. The real improvement is CAM gimbal - giving a tactile but "clunck'less" center - but determine the CAM geometry is a bit trick (I get the basics concept), thing is the ones that know about - even if did only a custom one for personal use - make this a "commercial secret". :) A alternative is print a "NN_Dan/EvenStrain" like gimbal, with springs in "X" - but is need a "unbiased" opinion of ones that owned this gimbal about their functioning. I think that opposite springs tends to cancel their actions of the other, so with this spring arrangement the gimbal don't provide a good mechanical center position... Edited September 30, 2016 by Sokol1_br Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Goblin Posted September 30, 2016 Share Posted September 30, 2016 Is there a way a new board could replace the boards in .. say a TM Cougar TQS . .... without the soldering etc......... works right out of the box? This: http://www.realsimulator.com/html/tusba.html The Cougar TQS is, as you know, dependent on the Cougar stick electronics. The TUSBA makes it stand alone. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mrwell Posted September 30, 2016 Share Posted September 30, 2016 Or with this: https://pits.108vfs.org/uriba/standalone-cougar-tqs-part-i/ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brewnix Posted October 1, 2016 Share Posted October 1, 2016 (edited) hello again got question about how many encoders can you use? I can get 3 encoders for 6 buttons to work flawless. As soon as add 3 more encoders nothing works. All i did was add the extra BR and added the extra buttons. Mimic what i did with the first 3 encoders. When i take away the extra button row the 3 encoders starts working. Here's the setup. When i move the BR wire to different BR assignments and it work by it self. But can't add a second. The board i made thru Fritzing seems sound i can apply the BR to either side of the board the top 3 or the bottom 3 and it works in VKB Button tester just not all 6 at same time.Heres the board i have made.Previous post. Here is the BC hand made pcb i made to tie the BC together for the other 3 encoders. I have been tweaking the current board to get rid of the second hand made pcb. And extra pins to add more boards to the connection going to the promicro. For adding to the encoder Matrix. I am thinking that i have to much cabling from the 6 encoders to the Promicro for it to run on the first board. Not enough juice to get back to the Promicro. Thanks! Edited October 1, 2016 by Brewnix [sIGPIC][/sIGPIC] Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
debolestis Posted October 1, 2016 Share Posted October 1, 2016 You should try shift registers, I stopped using matrix, too many wires. You have large pcb, you can fit SR on it easily. You only need 5 wires from PCB to Pro micro. I can send Eagle files if you need them. - Debolestis' Shapeways store - Debolestis' Facebook page - Suncom SFS and Talon restoration and mods - Cougar replacement gimbal Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brewnix Posted October 1, 2016 Share Posted October 1, 2016 You should try shift registers, I stopped using matrix, too many wires. You have large pcb, you can fit SR on it easily. You only need 5 wires from PCB to Pro micro. I can send Eagle files if you need them. Interesting! I didn't think about shiftregister with encoders. I still have some cd4021 left over from my throttle project. I like the idea of shift registers. So would you wire the encoder like a regular button to the SR? Ground to center pin and the 2 outer pins to the SR that would give 8 buttons with 4 encoders. One PCB with 4 encoders and a SR on it would be a smaller pcb board and you can daisy chain like your pcbs! [sIGPIC][/sIGPIC] Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mega_mozg_13 Posted October 2, 2016 Share Posted October 2, 2016 hello again got question about how many encoders can you use? if you change Button Matrix(add or remove Rows/Columns) you are need to reset all buttons again(buttons change the physical addresses) . 1) timer for encoders "on+off" mode 2) here new "beta" http://rgho.st/private/7QgPQNsnZ/5481377b7934369f346bc74d0a7f0e95 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Goblin Posted October 2, 2016 Share Posted October 2, 2016 (edited) Brewnix, It's hard to trace the PCB image because of resolution, but it looks like you have the diodes connected to row, instead of column..? https://github.com/MMjoy/mmjoy_en/wiki/Connecting-basic-inputs-and-setting-up-software Hm? Did you switch rows and columns in mmjoy? Edited October 2, 2016 by Goblin Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brewnix Posted October 2, 2016 Share Posted October 2, 2016 @ Mega_Mozg. OK i'll try that Thanks! @ Goblin so the first pic of PCB I marked wrong I wasn't paying attention once i got it delivered and started wiring up I realized my mistake. So i guess technically its wired good for button matrix. So that is the reason on the middle pic i created the home made pcb to combine all the wiring to the BC in one connection to Promicro board. [sIGPIC][/sIGPIC] Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Goblin Posted October 2, 2016 Share Posted October 2, 2016 (edited) But from your pictures, it looks like the red wires go to column ports on the pro micro, and there should be diodes between column and the outer pins of the encoder. Center pin should connect to the different rows. Looks like it's wired backwards, as if you have connected the outer pins via diodes to row, if you know what I mean. Edited October 2, 2016 by Goblin Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brewnix Posted October 2, 2016 Share Posted October 2, 2016 Hello Goblin, so i understand what you are talking about i have the outer pins of encoders connected to diodes going to the BC. And the center pin going to BR. The red wire of my pic are wired to D3,D2 which are buttons rows. And the blue wires are wired to BC with diodes after the encoder out pins on the pcb. I did change the button row assignment from B3,B2 to D3,D2 Trouble shooting to see if i got the same result from other pins. So i get great results with 3 encoders on 1 BR to 6 BC. As soon as I add one more BR for additional 3 encoders for 2 BR 6 BC none of it works. Maybe check out the schematic i m referencing pins off of. I placed the 2 i am using on one pic to show the pins.Red wires attached to pins in red box and blue wires attached to pins in blue box. Thanks for the attention to detail. [sIGPIC][/sIGPIC] Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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