bnepethomas

If you are you looking for an input board for toggles and rotaries check out the good work done by overpro. I have Leo's boards, and they are good, but with overpros Arduino project you have a card with bulk inputs at a very cost effective price

Thanks for this, didn't know Helios already had integration with SOIC, learn something new everyday

I'd be very surprised if Helios is causing problems. One thing I think you may be running into, that I've not verified, is if you finish a mission and then go back in you may need to restart the exporting program. Again I've not verified it. Cheers Peter

Hi John Was this in multiplayer mode, I'm running into something funky which I think is due to multiplayer mode, just haven't had time to verify. It had been working fine in single player, which is where I do all my testing. Cheers Peter

That's pretty much what I do, just with plain old acrylic. we cut the top layer, paint then engrave. Works a treat :) http://forums.eagle.ru/showpost.php?p=1990769&postcount=120 I'm using enamel paint, so it is reasonably tough, again it horses for courses, different approaches will work for different builders. With the clear hardcoat, just be a little careful, I did that on a couple of my F16 panels, and now wish I hadn't, the clear coat isn't as clear as what it was after two years. cheers Peter

On the money with alignment and focus, if things aren't fully aligned you find all sorts of sadness. I was scratching my head when I couldn't cut through 3 acrylic after 7 runs at 100% power was bearly denting the acrylic. All fixed with correct alignment. For reference - for the 40W tube I do 4 runs at 70% speed 100% power for 3mm acrylic. And has you've noted, there are big differences in the quality of material for cutting, the one from the local hardware store was really noxious, the material from a major plastics supplier was much friendlier. Cheers Peter

Its the old horses for courses I guess. LaserMax is definitely hard wearing, where I struggled with was finding the paint that gives the perfect match, especially when it somes to square holes for the CMSP and holes for gauges. Still got a sheet of Lasermax out the back, but I'm having more luck with the painting the cutting the top layer, painting it black and then engraving. But whatever works. Do you have a pointer to the matching paint? cheers Peter

Hi Overpro The updated code definitely helps, it improves both my troublesome encoder as well as smoothed out the ones that were working ok. The troublesome encoder is Model 288T232R161A2 (http://www.leobodnar.com/shop/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=75&products_id=191) There was still some quirks with it, even after the code update, so I'd got brake and removed them from the prebuilt panel, so no urgency at all to fix, as I've now got an operational panel using smaller encoders. Thanks again for your work on this, its awesome. Cheers Peter

Yes siree, the LEDs are not needed, but are certainly useful for troubleshooting. Cheers Peter

I'd suggest a couple of layers of solid black acrylic and then the top one, using white acrylic, and then painted black, and then engraved. Challenge with LaserMax is covering up the white on the holes. cheers Peter

sure - here's the source code https://code.google.com/p/bne-arduino-multi-oled-receiver/ The Arduino code sits under Arduino sender. The AND gate I pretty sure was a 4081. Answering a couple of earlier questions, I'm just using a single Arduino, there nothing stopping using multiple which will simply the code. cheers Peter

I've got a good bunch of 'stuff' hanging off the PC in my pit, so I wanted to minimise the number of additional devices, that lead me to adding an AND gate to the Arduino. The reason for that is the OLEDs have the same target address, so something is needed to differentiate between them, If you haven't got lots of devices then I'd suggest one device per Arduino for starters. If you are really keen here's the basis of the 'mux' I used, it currently drives six OLEDs in the pit. I'd recommend only purchasing the displays from someone who provides a sample sketch, just so you have something to play with. cheers Peter

Yes siree, in addition the spacer to helps disperse the backlighting from the leds.

Have tried Lasermax, an into challenges with holes for switches exposing the white layer, specifically could find black paint to match Lasermax colour. Currently have 3 layers 1: Use Black Acrylic for base plate with holes for Led Lighting. 2: Middle layer is also black with holes for backlighting 3: White (as opposed to opal) for top layer. Top panel is cut, painted, and then engraved. cheers Peter

Thanks for the reply Overpro, I'll give that a go. Not sure of the specs, I'll take apart the panel and see if I can make anything of it. cheers Peter

Thank you - you've just saved me a bunch of time. Cheers Peter

You sure can, you can send commands to DCS over UDP. It usually involves a bit of digging around it works a treat.

Good point, I did take a look at it originally, but I couldn't send LUA commands so cut my own. But if there isn't a simple api we can use, ahk may well be plan B, do you know if it recognises joysticks buttons numbered above 32? I've also pulled out an x-keys module, that should do the trick if all else fails. Cheers Peter

I wonder what TouchBuddy used, haven't tried with with anything post LOMAC, but it used to work a trick

Thanks for your ongoing work with this ClearDark, it is appreciated. Cheers Peter

A question for you Overpro - I've got a couple of different types of encoders, and seem to miss turns with some of them. Is this likely to be a timing issue? It catches a percentage of the 'steps'. Normally I'd just replace the encoders with the one I know work, but these encoders are in a premounted panel, so sizes are different. Cheers Peter

Funny - I'm just about to start down the same journey, and was wondering how to get keystrokes into DCS. I started on a framework to monitor multiple sticks, and are currently using that to send LUA instructions to DCS for SAS and Anti-skid buttons, but now want to add radio related functions. Bit of a bummer that WM_KEYUP etc don't work. Does the same apply for SendKeys? Cheers Peter

Just a suggestion on the laser, buy one from a company you can talk to, and also verify what are the steps needed to get from drawing to laser. It's also good for the supplier/manufacturer has a forum, help gets questions answered more quickly. Cheers Peter

Magic - time to get the tape measure out, how flexible are you re the dimensions? cheers peter

What is it going to cost to ship to Oz?