Seil

Well, in all fairness, Taproot hasn't had the opportunity to try the hogs, and likewise, I felt the same way until they really went to shit and I opened them up and then bought the hogs myself :p -Seil

I know Ebs, when I started opening them up and checking them out for myself... it just pissed me off really. I ordered the TM WH Hotas within 24 hours of that... Lost a lot of trust and loyalty in that deal from many people -Seil

YOU ACTUALLY INSTALLED SOMETHING COMCAST GAVE YOU!?!?!?!?! o.O no no no no no no no no no no no no no no no no no no no no no no no no no :bash: -Seil

I barely use it at all now. Perfected TrackIR input, restricted FOV limits on the both how far zoomed in and out, it's a very natural and real setup... With the Warthogs, I use the analog on the throttle for zoom, but you can swing your thumb to catch it anytime you need, and I rarely use it, save for when I would use binocs to visually ID something 20-30 miles out briefly for visual reference training. I think zoom is a little overrated... just my $0.02 -Seil

I've looked into it... not that deep however. TrackIR axis data is encrypted (Supported by version 4; Required by version 5). They did this to protect their product / rights / prevent free-track from working with the official TiR SDK. Without the native SDK from TrackIR, I'm fairly certain you cannot create a virtual device and mirror the Z axis from TrackIR to multiple virtual axis'. However, what I would be curious to know is whether you can hand edit the axis bindings and duplicate that axis call on both inputs.. (Not at my DCS station atm, I'll try to remember to test this sometime this weekend) Can anyone else chime in with any experience trying this? -Seil

Yes, that's one I've dug through as well..... It WOULD fix the issue if you replaced the pots as well...... Unfortunately, if you look at this specific picture: http://www.lca.ympsa.com/joystick/612.jpg you can see that both of the pots used for the throttles are of the same type throughout the rest of the controller, cheap plastic/plastic parts. I also have a logic issue with replacing failing pots with more pots that will eventually fail, which means you're stuck programming a controller for the halls to work... :-\ -Seil

I would say it really depends on how you're using the system.... The rougher you are, the faster it will go.... Rudder pedals, unless you deadzone, curve, saturate and filter ended up only really providing me with taxi capabilities and will end up sending bad values to the sim even though they are at the 0 point... Basically means you're flying with slight rudder constantly applied or spiking a bit like that zoom does.... acts like flying with a crosswind even though there isn't any.... Any adjustments you make to filter the spiking, should be conducted while looking at the live output readings from each axis... so you can tell where it needs work and how much... I try to use as little compensation as possible - its still tough to alleviate though. From the time I started getting spiking in the R2 for zoom until my internal wiring was bad enough to make all my throttle controls go haywire was probably less than 200 hours of flight time..... I can't really be any more certain or specific on this number as I wasn't keeping flight log data for my controls (although I should have). There are some guides on how to repair the wiring in there..... but that wont fix the pot issues.... The REAL problem with the pots, are that they are COMPLETELY made from plastic, and very very small... You have very little room to work with for repairs. I also disconnected the wiring connectors on the pots, completely disabling them. However, with the short in the throttle wiring, it was STILL sending input updates for the disconnected axis'. And I couldn't be certain that it was specifically a wiring short issue (just my best guess)... If I was going to repair anything, the controllers were going to get replaced without a doubt. (Fix that damn reversal bug) I have some TINY magnets and hall sensors, I can get them to fit, but all of that was put on hold when I decided to order the Warthogs... I've gone from spending 60% of my time messing with controls and options and testing, and starting / quitting the game with the G940 to 99% of my time flying with an ear-to-ear smile on my face with the Warthogs.... I liked the G940 so much I really didn't want to abandon it, however, it seems as though Logitech threw in the towel on it awhile ago and left the end-users holding the bag (of crap)... Hope this helps, or informs I guess :-\ Let me know if there's anything else I can do ;) -Seil

Taproot, Welcome to the last couple years of my G940 experience...... It's only going to get more insane! POT issues for certain. Remember this: http://forums.eagle.ru/showthread.php?p=1681851 ? I was using R2, then R1, then Pitch Trim (on the stick base) and other trims, before removing zoom altogether..... single WORST issue to deal with imho, zoom was always going crazy. Sadly, I believe your G940 is on the way DOWN the hill now :( P.S. Biggest difference between WH and G940..... I've been running pure-linear, no curves at all on the WH Hotas and it is heaven! .... oh and the WH actually works :p -Seil

Thank you Ebs, I've only been without it now for a couple days and I was already starting to freak out ;) good work my man ;) -Seil

Believe it or not, but the FIRST time you connect will be the hardest one ever. After you've done it just once, you can practically do it blind-folded, imho. I don't doubt that he "mastered" easy refuels in one night. Now, try refueling in 20+mph crosswinds while the tanker flies a circle orbit a couple thousand feet above the mountain tops. ---------- EDIT: 1.2.3 has now included a mission editor setup guide for proper tanker support in the following local folder: ..\DCS World\Doc\Tester reference Orbit works with En-Route Task Option ---------- -Seil

HAHAHAHA! Ok, here it goes: Bought the G940 a few months after they were released, just long enough after to not have to deal with the very first bugs off the assembly line. At the time the Warthogs were already announced, maybe even available - I don't remember. I really LOVED the G940 setup. Large controls, tall stick, very comfortable. With the halls on the X/Y axis of the stick, it's very precise. In fact, just about everything with the kit is great..... It's a much shorter list to go over the inadequacies of the G940 however: #1 Center Slop: This was the most disturbing part of the stick from Day #1. There wasn't a ton of slop, but enough that the stick wants to fall away from dead-zero in any given direction with a feather's touch. At first I attempted to solve this problem with software: I wrote a small program that took over control of the FFB motors in the 940 stick and tightened up the tolerances for the centering spring. This ABSOLUTELY solved the slop issue, but it was also causing the worst gear grinding sound CONSTANTLY coming from the stick, not to mention that the continuous load on the motors was causing the base of the stick to become feverishly hot. (Note: was in contact with the Logitech developers through testing of this and tried for about 3 weeks to find a REAL solution that wasn't going to cause the damn thing to burn out) In the end, I made-due with the slop by adjusting my grip and allowing gravity to load more the weight from my hand / arm onto the bottom rest pad of the stick, basically using the downward weight to help hold the stick at center. #2 The "Reversal Bug" aka Logitech's Failed Hysteresis implementation: All axis' (albeit to differing degrees) suffer from Logitech's Hysteresis problems. You can find plenty of information about this else-where, but it boils down to the developers attempting to solve a hardware issue with a software band-aid and failing on all fronts. When the pots start to go bad and spike (which they do) this code is supposed to prevent them from spiking out of control by reading and filtering the input values. What actually happens: Anytime you change directions on an axis, especially in a quick fashion, the input values of the new direction are filtered; severely cutting down the "sensitivity". I would find this happening to me during jink maneuvers coming off the targets. I'm able to roll fast as hell to one direction, but as soon as I quickly reverse roll directions, I was all of a sudden flying a different plane. I want to note that airspeed and other factors contribute to the rate at which you can perform rolls. This wasn't a problem caused by speed bleed, slew controls suffered worse from this; also see below: #3 The Deadman's Switch: This optical switch triggers when your hand is on the stick itself. This enables a completely different response curve from the stick, as well as a different FFB profile. If you fly your plane with your fingers touching only the top head of the stick, it will respond and fly beautifully, if the reversal bug is still present, it is very minimal. As soon as you trigger the Deadman's switch however, back to the same old song and dance. #4 The Logitech Profiler: Complete Garbage. Programming things like AXIS Zones, macros, shift states.... all difficult to get right. I'm not saying it's not possible. I'm just saying you're in for about 10 hours of loading/quitting the game and trying to fix things. If I just leave the stick as a stock DX input setup, then I map everything in the sim, including defining additional modifiers on the stick/throttle itself - 10 minutes to bind controls. I ended up using autohotkey and a few other hacks to get some of the programming features I needed from the G940.... #5 Lack of Strain Relief on the internal wiring: My throttle has been suffering from a short in the wiring. Basically amounts to most all controls on the right throttle itself being unusable when the throttle is at 100% I was always backing the throttle off to sometimes 80% of mechanical throw to get the buttons / D-Pad to work. #6 Lack of PROPER FFB Integration: Wings of Prey was honestly the only title (That I flew) that had some cool FFB for that stick. I am VERY unhappy with the FFB trim style... (Your stick is physically held offset from the center in order to trim). This may be a wonderful thing with an extra foot or two on the stick (extending it), but with such a short throw on the current design, I feel that it limits axis travel too much in the given direction(s) that trim is holding the offset on..... Let it be known, I reversed the FFB axis directions, flipped them, set good force values, and tweaked the FFB strengths of the stick itself to be AS NICE AS POSSIBLE in DCS. I also flew for quite some time like this, and eventually gave it up for just an FFB center spring again.... Anything that could be tweaked on FFB had been. It was waaay nicer than stock, but I didn't feel like it was "good enough". #7 Controls Design and Layout: There's no way around the fact that for most modern aircraft, you're going to need to use the MODE or Shift states to gain access to all necessary HOTAS controls. I was pretty content with this for quite some time. When the wiring short started happening in the throttle however, it became clear that massive over-loading of controls with different shift states and all of that was going to be a nightmare. If the shift button is flaking out, you have no clue if you're going to get "Coolie Left Long" or "China Hat FW Long" as an example. And thus, the G940 became "shiftless" at the end of it's deployment and removed convenient access to a number of critical controls. (Not to mention the MODE switch was ONLY usable with the Logitech Profiler, so that was a worthless switch for me for about..... the last 2 years). The DPads also felt a little spongy and shifted commands felt like they really took forever to execute. The TM-Warthogs on the other hand (and other sticks) seem to be a little more capable than a single D-PAD on the stick head with a single (cheap and inconsistent) mini-joy. #8 Rudder Issues: Only real issue I found was with the POTS getting dirty. Eventually, they were just no longer plugged in. Even still, the main controller was reporting weird and inconsistent rudder values. Had to completely unbind these axis. #9 This wasn't just my problem: My wingman, DeadCell, bought the G940 within a week or two of myself, and together we suffered from all of these problems as a team! Every time he announced a malfunction starting to happen with his G940, I was sure to see the same issue within days if not, a couple weeks MAX; and vice versa. It became pretty clear to us that we needed to solve this experiment-gone-wrong called the G940 when damn near every other flight, neither of us had enough working controls on the HOTAS to release a single weapon; restart the mission, go through startup, YUP, controls are working again...... 20 minutes later as we're fencing-in.... Ohhh look at that, No more TMS or China Hat...... GL! #10 I was going to "SAVE" that G940! I have a couple of spare Arduinos, I have ton of hall sensors and magnets....... But the time..... it just didn't seem all that worth it to me when I could be back to tip-top shape in the air in less than 3 days by ordering a TM Warthog HOTAS ;) .... (and have proper controls for my aircraft as well) ----------------------- I'm still planning to rip apart the rudders of the G940 when I get time and replace the pots with some halls, control it with an arduino or an AVR and have it running on its own USB slave controller. Need more time to even start thinking about that project... ----------------------- The Warthog: As a TrackIR user, I remapped the TRIM control to being JUST TRIM instead of look-around and shifted to Trim. -I set the grey analog slider on the throttle to be a zoom control (for use as binocs and visual spotting more than to dynamically zoom in/out). -I built a new curve for the SLEW axis'. -I bound multiple PTT (Mic Switch Up & Push, Stick Pinky Paddle) to handle all of our comms needs, TARS Guard is selected with the Mic Switch FW, Aft, Down (Default for VHF/UHF Radio Control). -I adjusted the lighting intensity..... And that is ALL that needed to be done so far. Something needs to be said about the SPEED at which commands can be sent to the simulation. Shifting controls inherently adds delay to each command (you're executing multiple commands to achieve a single input to the sim). Using the Warthog Hotas with dedicated controls for everything incredibly increases the speed at which you are able to operate your systems (namely weapons). Control accuracy is another point; Accidentally sending the wrong controls (China Hat Aft Short for instance, resetting your sensor to bore sight) is no longer an issue either. Going from a G940 to Warthogs quantified by weapons release: With the Warthogs, DeadCell and I can both launch 6 AGM-65Ds in about the same time it took us to launch 3 of them before (Utilizing TGP+MAV from stand-off ranges); 100% Good Effect on Target ;) As Flight Lead for WotG, I push my aircraft quite extensively. The scenarios we run typically put us under a lot of pressure to execute accurate strikes as fast as possible. We may be dropping 3-4 bombs, firing 2-6 AGMs in a single pass, or continuously holding the enemy under fire from our Guns with alternating passes. With the G940, I found it to be a lot more difficult to give fine adjustments (because of FFB spring design) as you pull off the target. The bird wants to roll off left/right more than it wants to climb. This is entirely caused by trying to over-maneuver given the current angle of attack, G-Load, air speed, aircraft weight + weapon weight, etc. With the TM Warthogs, in the same situation, I don't have any issues at all. The difference is the predictable consistency in the stick's response.... It was never an issue of being over zealous, but lack of definitive control from the G940 (for my personal tastes, other people may not have such an issue). The center of the Warthog Stick is pretty damn absolute. It almost "locks" into place. It is the furthest from the G940 experience I could imagine. With small force inputs, the stick will barely "rock" along the edge of the center point, almost like a force sensing stick; this allows you to make very fine corrections, even with a Pure-Linear response curve. "Stirring the Stick" also works wonderfully, allowing you to "stir" the stick with a circular motion to make fine adjustments (both small and large motions work well). ----------------- In conclusion: If you are a serious Hog Pilot, or serious about becoming a serious Hog Pilot, you want this HOTAS. DeadCell and I both have the TM MFDs as well, with the MFD video properly displayed inside the MFD controllers. Between those and the TM Warthogs, there is no comparison to how incredible it is to fly and operate our A10 Charlies. Side-Note: I can and do fly all kinds of aircraft - The A10C is our pride and joy, but if there is any question as to how will the TM Warthogs do for other aircraft, well there is no question at all. I have never owned or used any Saitek HOTAS controllers, I typically run not walk away from Saitek... That being said, I cannot speak anything about the X65, which would be the ONLY viable option I could see coming from Saitek. If you're considering an X52 or whatnot, remember that the G940 and the X52 are in a product class that could be labelled: "Consumer Desktop Controllers", the TM Warthogs however, are in the product class more appropriately labelled: "Professional Simulation Controllers". I say this based on the quality of the construction and from the experience of having disassembled the G940 and examining the switch design and circuitry inside. Disclaimer: All of my experience and understanding of the X52 is second hand from other WotG squadron pilots. ---- I could probably go on for days with more in-depth info, and there's plenty of other points that are mention worthy. Instead I think I'm going to conclude here and let more specific questions be asked. In case anyone's wondering, it wasn't mentioned above, but yes, DeadCell also bought a set of TM Warthogs. I can say that the above information is a product of our combined experience and findings. Hope this helps, -Seil WotG Founder & A10C Flight Lead

Mount that Momo to the left side and use the sequential shifter for your gear up/down ;) I'm running the G25 Shifter for gear / master arm panel - even nicer as it's a separate component from the wheel. (Making due until there's room for a pit....) -Seil

Happiness is a new set of Warthogs. (Just retired a dying G940) -Seil

You can use anything you want theoretically, just have to know how to program the controller to work with it.... I've used both with embedded controllers in the past. Also may make more sense to use one type or the other depending on what the application is that the motor will be used for. -Seil

This is actually a pretty good question. Let me say that I apologize for the delayed response - I've been out of the DCS loop for a little while. The A10 actually has a center pylon that IS usable for a number of things; So long as you do not use either pylon closest to the center. For weapon system compatibility issues or any other reason you decide that you dont want to use the center pylon, I would load an odd item on one of the pylons closest to the center. If you want something light and easy to fill in the gaps and bring more power at the same time, I'd recommend a dual or single ejector 500lb bomb. Or an FFAR pod with WP if I think I might have to designate targets as AFAC. The weapon figure of the chart on the left side lists percentages that each option costs. So a CBU-38 will consume 2% of your capable maximum. Find another 2% item to get a very close balance. I have near 0 trim corrections required due to load balance issues. :D Hope this helps and good luck! -Seil

No, Server version doesn't matter. The only thing the TARS plugin interacts with is the client. And I'm assuming the only real reason why RC1 isn't working with TARS is because the folks developing TS3 changed around a couple details on how the plugins communicate with TS3 client itself, therefore breaking the TARS plugin. When the new TARS plugin comes out it will be compatible with RC1. Meanwhile if you'd like to try a beta 36 server just for the helluva it, or maybe come along with my squadron on some flights, you'd be welcome to use our TS3 server.... plenty of room. ***Re-Iteration: I am running a beta 36 server online :D Just pm me for the info. -Seil

My unit is currently working on sorting some things out, in testing phase right now, but we will soon enough be hosting a dedicated server that is passworded. However, we will also be hosting a pub TS server which other pilots / squadrons can join and use TARS within our TS / A10C server. The server will be passworded in order to enforce pilots to join TS and participate in radio comms. From within TS you will be able to aquire the server password and other information. Our goal is to run some more organized operations with multiple units / individual pilots working together in a coordinated fashion. I believe this is along the lines of what was proposed, a way to help bring the community together. We also have a series of missions under development in which will comprise an MP campaign scenario that we are hoping to coordinate multiple groups of people together to run some pretty impressive operations in a professional manor. We are looking for new pilots to recruit into our squadron, however, this is not nearly as much of a priority for us as making friends with other squadrons and creating a "joint effort" atmosphere. :D -Seil

No prob man, glad to hear. -Seil

Typically, your firewall will allow for local connections to pass just fine. Which would mean that you only need to open ports for services that require other computers to connect, i.e. your friend connecting to your TS server. However, in the event that your firewall rules are more restrictive in that every connection requires and explicit rule defined to pass traffic, you would have to open that port for TARS as well. Like I said, you SHOULD be able to get by without any new firewall rules, but in the event you need to create a new rule, you should just allow all traffic from localhost. Do this: Get all your port settings correct Launch TS and connect to the server with TARS plugin enabled Go into an instant action mission on DCS Engage autopilot Alt + Tab out of the game and click on your name in TS SHOULD list TARS radio freq info If not, check firewall logs / settings for blocked traffic from localhost or on that port number and correct accordingly. GL! -Seil

Actually, hamachi has nothing to do with his problem, and if you don't know much about hamachi, the fact that his friend is already connected to the TS server should be a hint that it isn't the problem. What the problem is in fact is that in the TARS control panel, you are setting the port for TARS to the TS port.... don't do that. You need the TARS control panel port set to 48101 When you run a mission in DCS, a set of TARS scripts open a socket (127.0.0.1:48101) and use this socket to communicate with the TARS plugin. Your TS client uses port 9987 to connect to the TS server, 2 completely different communication links. Hope it works for you once you correct that setting. Your friend also needs to change that. And you may need to adjust the firewall accordingly if it doesn't work at first. Note: If you cant figure out which port numbers to use where, uninstall TARS and reinstall it. Then don't change any of the port or address settings, defaults for TARS should all work fine. -Seil

We use it a lot in my squadron, especially when working as a 2 ship wing. Pilot 1 locks target with TGP Point Tracking; Broadcast SPI via SADL. Pilot 2 Hooks SPI of Pilot 1 using TAD; Slave TGP to Guns and use TAD Hook indicators on HUD to align run in on target. Once in a dive on target and pipper occults Hook box, look to TGP and align sights on target; Pull for PAC; Pull for GUNS GUNS GUNS! ;) -Seil

I have TARS running perfectly on beta 36, UHF, AM and FM works great. Luckily still had the installer for beta 36 so I could revert from RC1 until new version of TARS is out. -Seil

Got tired of guessing at how much fuel I can take from a tanker based on my payload weight. So I put together a couple charts that detail the weight percentage of each weapon and fuel levels. Each item has a corresponding total weight percentage. Take the base weight percentage of the airframe (plus gun ammo if applicable) and add the percentages from each weapon currently onboard. Now you can use the fuel chart and see how much fuel you can take total, by number of pounds or anything else you need to know. Also handy for referencing when building payloads ;) **NOTE: All decimals rounded up for a safety cushion. Total margin of error no more than 1%, meaning if you figure out you're at 100% weight, then you may be between 99.1% and 100%. In either case you wont be able to overload your plane at all if using these figures and everything equals 100 or less. -Seil A10C_WeightCharts.pdf

Check my original post, I can keep that updated and labelled for a quick reference point. -Seil

After replying to another help post, ivanwfr suggested I make a proper indexed thread about Track IR with the response I had given. So I decided to start a proper thread about maximizing Track IR. ------------------------------------- 5-29-2011 ------------------------------------- Setting Up Track IR: ------------------------------------- After over 4 years of TiR experience: #1 Seems obvious, but, the Pro-Clip arm does have to be in the correct orientation for it to properly work, which is having the longest arm on the bottom. I've always used it with the most success on the left side of my head, right side never worked well. #2 The camera should be centered on the Clip not on your head, which is over to the left side a fair bit. Using a 22" LCD, the camera is basically 0.5 - 1 inch from the left corner of the display if clipped on the top of the monitor. #3 Use the software to get the alignment of the dots pretty well centered in the camera's FOV. #4 Check head movement against camera dot tracking and look for places where 2 dots merge or come very close to each other (called "binding"). When this happens, the camera has a tendency to lose accurate tracking. - The camera may need to be raised or lowered accordingly to allow for proper angle tracking when moving your head around. #5 Just as vertical and horizontal centering matters, so does the distance from the clip to the camera, you may benefit from the camera being a bit closer or further away from your head based on tracking tests. Easy to test, just put your head further or closer when using dot tracking view looking for "binding" where multiple dots merge together and the camera loses track. #6 Dot tracking size and light filtering settings should be set accordingly. I've always had the best performance from the smallest dots possible and adjusting the dot tracking size lower to accommodate. It basically means the dots stay separate from each other more when certain angles bring them close to each other. - Setting light filtering lower to make the dots smaller will also help cut down on unwanted IR noise in the background of the camera's FOV, which can wreak havoc on tracking. #7 The motion allowed in the cockpit has a couple weird limits. For instance, if I look down and zoom in at a part of the lower center dash, and then return to HUD, it may be a bit off, but if I zoom out, by pulling away before I sit back up to look at HUD, it centers properly, almost as if without doing that, the camera in the sim is colliding with an invisible "shelf" that wont allow the camera to retract to original position. #8 I do reset my TiR centering often. But it's not always necessary for me to do it, I do it mostly from habit. And since i'll lean off to the side to blow a smoke out the window fan quick on auto-pilot navigating to/from airfield. When repositioning myself back to normal placement, re-centering isn't always necessary, but restores the precise alignment. #9 The more you use it, and fully experiment with the settings and configuration of your TiR setup, the better it will get, and be more natural. #10 Using TiR really shows you how much your head moves around without you noticing it. Takes some discipline to keep your head centered and aligned unless you want to look around. #11 Check the sim's G-Force settings as well, it will pull your head cam around without you moving TiR and it will affect your view. I initially started out with a dead zone in the middle so it would re-lock to center, and gradually over time, my preferred curves became more aggressive and the center dead zone was eliminated. Now, I run a completely FLAT response line on every axis, with increased sensitivity on zoom, reduced on roll and x, y, pitch and yaw all the same. For some time now, I can accurately track planes, missiles, and ground targets visually using TiR looking out of the canopy while jinking, or the other aircraft conducting aggressive maneuvers, or both at the same time. If you spend the time to really experiment and get it properly setup for your environment, it becomes more than an immersion booster, it is a real weapon. ------------------------------------- Auto Precision Mode: ------------------------------------- You can toggle the Precision mode by default with F7 which slows down movement severely making the tracking very fine and precise; for when you are focused on something, like your gun sights.... - Edit the Profile Hotkeys for the TiR profile you use with DCS. - Change the Precision Hotkey to your First Stage trigger. (or PACs button / key) - Uncheck "Toggle" box. - May or may not have to check / uncheck "Trap" box depending on results in sim. It may prevent your key / button functioning in the game and only work for TiR controls. Unchecking by default will make the button work in both TiR and simulator. Now when you run in for guns, you trip your First Stage Trigger to enable PAC for precision flight AND you enable TiR Precision which prohibts jerky, floating or drifting effects in head tracking. ------------------------------------- Adjust Your Seat ------------------------------------- DCS A10C allows you to adjust your seat height. I'm not sure about BlackShark, don't own it. Next to your Flaps Gauge, in the corner, is a switch that allows you to raise / lower your seat in the cockpit. This comes in handy quite a bit for me actually. Night Ops for example, I tend to sink into my cockpit panels a bit, so rather than constantly leaning down, I lower the seat a bit, and look into the HUD by sitting up. When you are constantly performing gun or CCIP runs, Taxiing, Mid-Air Refuel, Formation flight, or anything else, you may want to raise your seat up a bit and get your head out of the cockpit. ------------------------------------- Making Track IR Work FOR You ------------------------------------- Since I have TiR, I decided I didn't need all those view controls on my numpad. Instead I mapped them all to my CDU number input buttons. So now, anytime I need to enter digits into the CDU, I can simply type them onto the numpad of my keyboard. Numpad Enter is set to the CLR button. Futher Improvement: With the G940 having all my Hat Switches and everything else programmed, I mapped A-Z on the keyboard to the CDU input letters as well. I still have Shift, Ctrl, Alt, Win, Etc + those keys mapped to other controls as default, But since the logitech profiler doesn't play nice with the simulator for correct input response, I had mapped out all of my stick controls directly in the game for much smoother and consistent response. Even if your controls are mapped in an external profile of some sort and rely on the keyboard commands, you can redefined those commands in the game and fix the profiler controls accordingly. And I know, it sounds like a lot of work, but we are only talking about 26 letters total and 1/2 of them aren't mapped in the sim by default. Backspace Key is set to backspace on the CDU. Spacebar set to space on CDU (Was fire guns, careful) Despite the work, Entering anything into the CDU or MSG pages is a breeze now. I use the scratch pad to enter the MGRS given out from JTACS, send MSGs to wingmen along with taskings via SADL, request channel frequencies from other SADL units, name NavPoints entered in CDU and Flight Plan names. ------------------------------------- Eyepoint and Head Position: http://forums.eagle.ru/showthread.php?t=68821 ------------------------------------- ------------------------------------- Background Light Issues: http://forums.eagle.ru/showthread.php?t=68605 ------------------------------------- ------------------------------------- ------------------------------------- ------------------------------------- Feel free to reply with any other great tips or tricks. I will be performing upkeep on this thread from time to time to include more content and consolidate it into this first post if I can. Feedback appreciated. -Seil