

Feed
Members-
Posts
322 -
Joined
-
Last visited
Content Type
Profiles
Forums
Events
Everything posted by Feed
-
Nice! How's your comfort with the stick there (it seems like it'd be too low)? Are you planning to try extending the shaft a bit?
-
If you open up the config/MonitorSetup/RMFCD+Camera+LMFCD.lua file with a text editor, it's really pretty straightforward. It simply defines screen areas for each part of the view. The default file splits your display into thirds, and displays the main view between the two MFCD screens ... I just replaced the "screen.width / 3" (and similar math) with specific numbers (screen coordinates) that match my setup. I believe this thread probably explains it better than I possibly could ....
-
I simply modified the LMFCD+Camera+RMFCD.lua under MonitorSetup ... works like a charm.
-
I use a single (second) monitor with 4 MFD bezels arranged in a "V" .. works well. The monitor is a 20" widescreen. I used a sheet of acrylic the same thickness as the monitor bezel, so at least the top/outside edges of the MFD edges aren't taking up onscreen space (alternatively you could remove the LCD bezel). There's about 7 inches of space between the top two MFDs.
-
Now that Beta3 has the commands available, mine will probably transmute into a CMSP, CDU, etc. >D
-
Oh, wow ... it's going to take some studying to understand this, but I can see this is going to be seriously useful information as interfacing begins! NICE.
-
I'm not worried ... any simulator is going to have to make some shortcuts/conscessions. Between lua, SIOC and ongoing development, I'd bet they're going to do this right (to the greatest extent possible). I already seeit, just in the approach to map functions to hardware positions instead of a list of commands. (it doesn't matter that your joystick doesn't have multiple modes itself - because the modes are handled by the sim!) I already have the MFDs being displayed on a second monitor, and that's the overwhelming majority of what's needed already. If I can get a few LCD character displays working, so much the better. :) Great news on Patch 3, saw that myself last night. That should make 'pit building that much easier for a lot of folks.
-
Beta 3 patch is out, and they've included most (all?) cockpit switches in the control list, so they're bindable to keyboard keys. So nice!
-
I have a Cherry rows & columns relegendable SPOS keyboard set up the same way - about $100, quick and easy.
-
Man, Rocketeer - I tell you that your 'pit is an inspiration to me to keep going - I just need more time! Really nice progress, there ...
-
MAN that looks great ...
-
Also, having seen another real panel online, I think you guys may be right about the push/pull thing ... even though the panel I've got is push on/push off. Another panel I saw had the little raised ring around the edge, which would seem to indicate a need to grasp and pull the switch. Can anyone confirm the function of the actual switches?
-
No, Duckling is seeing where I'm coming from - I fully understand that the real controls are probably in fact pots - but implementation in a sim-pit is going to be much easier with a rotary encoder (even though you won't have the physical stops). Pots are hooked up like joystick axes, and return a value relative to their position - you need an A/D port for each one (on Leo's cards, each pot will take an axis, there are 4 axis available on the OC USB expansion, etc.) ... rotary encoders return a value based on which direction they're turned, and at least on the OC cards, require just 2 inputs (the same sort of inputs used for buttons). Not sure how other interface options would deal with encoders. Personally, my plan would be to use rotary encoders with built-in pushbuttons. The pushbutton could be set up to toggle the on/off value for the control (or perform whatever function the simulator has), and the rotary can handle whatever function rotation does (if it's implemented in the future, or used with a different sim, etc.). I think one of the big challenges to these sim-pits is not only making them feel right, but getting the simulator to interpret what's supposed to happen correct, as well.
-
I just can't figure out why you'd choose pots when it'd be easier to use encoders - but I suppose it doesn't matter if they're not implemented, anyway? If there's something I'm missing, and I'm gonna feel stupid later on, I'd sure like to know now. :)
-
Serial No. 935
-
I'm gonna cry ... If you need testers, sign me up.
-
That's outstanding ... truly inspiring. I need a mill. LOL
-
There is NO DOUBT that if I had it to do over again, that's the way I'd go. Unfortunately, I still have 42 7-segment displays laying around. I'm going to look for an etching kit so I can try making my own PCBs, and that should alleviate much of the mind-numbing matrixing. Wow.
-
I suppose that would be one way to go ... but is there any need for the rotary function, anyway? Also, while there are many "pot" type controls in the cockpit, I have to imagine that not many of them will actually work with an actual physical potentiometer. I suspect a rotary encoder will be a better choice, while saving the pots for common control axes like trim, flaps, rudder, brakes, etc. I don't know that for sure ...
-
1. Make a copy of DCS A-10C Beta/Config/MonitorSetup/LMFCD+Camera+RFMCD.lua and open it in a plain text editor. 2. Give the config a new name by editing the line: "name = _('MFCD');" 3. Fiddle with the rest of the file ... 4. In DCS, under Options, there is a setting where you can choose "1 Camera", "3 Cameras", with some other choices. One of those choices will be your new file (using the name you gave it in step 2). I've had success with this in getting the MFCDs to display across a TH2Go setup, but the computer really treats that as one monitor. I haven't had any luck at getting them to display on a secondary video port, yet. My results range from a black screen (but with the cockpit cursor), to everything working just fine, only not showing that I want on the separate monitor. Check out the threads for Black Shark ... same idea. Lots of good info.
-
Okay - I just spent around 6 hours wiring the 7-segment displays for the UHF radio ... by hand. I have learned 2 things: First, why they sell so many pre-matrixed 7-segment display boards, and second, that I must get set up to make my own circuit boards. I won't be doing that again ... ever. That's just the little numbers. I still have to wire all the switches. And I don't even know if it works, yet ... or has a short somewhere. There went Saturday! [edit] Okay, at least tested it now ... no shorts, no faults. THANK GOODNESS.
-
The link Deadman posted looks like a great way to do it. I was merely decribing the panels I have sitting here from real aircraft - certainly beyond my capabilities.
-
Minor point, but again, they're push on, push off, like a latching pushbutton.
-
The encoders I got were a good deal I got on eBay, and came with some nice generic knobs. The model number is listed as CS-CO043. They cost me less than $1 each. They're PCB mount, instead of having a threaded post, so that's something to keep in mind. They output 2-bit gray. Turning the dial one detent or 'notch' turns 'on' one input, turns on the other input, turns the first input off, then turns the second input off (as I understand it, that's what 'gray code' means). It determines direction by which of the two contacts is activated in which order (each encoder claims 2 inputs on the MasterCard). I haven't yet even tried to get a single switch or button working through OC to either BS or A-10, or even FSX, for that matter. I figure as long as I can see that the switch is doing what it's supposed to in the SIOC console, that the building part is right. Interfacing with the sims is still sitting on the to-do list.
-
HAHAA ... I doubt he's set tp to do that, but who knows!? The real panels I've got only have the one layer of metal. I should really get set up to post pictures. A couple of the corners have been chipped off, which really lets you see how it's put together. I had always thought the top surface was metal as well, and when I saw the chipped corner, it was a real revelation that the whole front panel is (tempered glass?). I really don't know exactly what it is, but that's what it looks like.