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Just as a note here - you have finer control over the MFD LED brightness in the Control Panel than you do by using the button combo. I find even a single press of the button combo too bright (from fully off), but using the control panel there's another 'notch' that's just about perfect.

Every day you wait, is a day less of warranty coverage. I'll send 10 back to TM for replacement before I'll have one sit idle in the corner.

Teej, is this a typo or slip of the tongue? Surely TARGET isn't going to give us control over individual *MFD* LEDs, is it (how awesome would that be)?

Nice update! And timely, too - I think I killed some brain cells by spray painting over the weekend. A fan and air filter just made it onto my shopping list. Oh, and I'm stealing the screw painting idea, too ... just thought you should know. ;) Those panels look fantastic.

Good stuff, there.

That looks GREAT!!! Fantastic work there, Duckling.

I definitely hear that! My question wasn't so much about "accuracy" as it was looks. I was planning to go with a standard, split-the-difference as well, and want those slots to fit perfectly around whatever sort of screws I end up using. It simply seemed like the diameter was significantly larger than the 'depth'. No worries!

HAHA - great use! As soon as I saw them, I thought - FANTASTIC. I'll have to keep an eye out. Maybe use casting resin to make them?

Pit, are you sure the dzus 'spaces' should be .5 x .36"?

Yes - but I was messing around putting max deflection on all inputs at once (flying like a maniac), just to see what would happen. Both engines failed, also failed to restart before crashing as smoothly as possible. :D

Good info! I was thinking of following the instructable for the 8x8x8 led cube, which would allow running 512 LEDs ... to say nothing of the potential for a cockpit rave!

Received the gamports yesterday, so now all I'm waiting on are the boxes. Judging from the feedback so far, I'll probably replace several of the toggle switches with pushbuttons, which are better supported by a wider range of simulators - and perhaps I'll replace the rest of the toggle switches with momentary toggles? I'll leave the labelling off completely, so folks can use p-touch labellers, and if someone wants a custom overlay, then I can certainly work that up.

On LED panel backlights - I've got some flat-top LEDs on the way that I'm eager to try out. Based on some initial testing with standard ultra-bright, diffused green LEDs, I wasn't happy enough, but the flat-top appears to have a much wider viewing angle that I hope will increase dispersion. My material of choice is 3/16" 2447 white acrylic for the panel faces. I'll post my results as soon as I can (after receiving the shipment from HK, which could take a month or more). Either way, it's probably going to take several LEDs to light an entire panel, but I don't think it'll take a huge amount of power (I could be wrong). I just had a thought - maybe incorporate a multiplexing circuit so they're actually flickering instead of constant-on, like a digital clock? I think EL wire is another good idea that deserves a try, but you'd have to plan well (the required power supply is directly related to the length of EL to be lit).

I was just wondering if you'd had any problem with the paint peeling or chipping, or if you'd done anything to the cap to prevent it. Depending on the type of plasic, I figured a good cleaning and perhaps rouching them up a bit with wet paper would be necessary.

Unless I'm remembering something very wrong, I believe when my throttle initially lost firmware (prior to full brick failure), TM sent me a utility to backup/extract the current firmware from the Throttle ... I'll take a look for it when I get home.

LeLv30 Superbus - That's a great looking panel! Could I ask the part details for the small plastic caps on the Master Arm & Laser Arm switches? I'm building similar panels myself, and those caps look perfect to give it a little something extra. Thanks!

Oh snap, those are SNAZZY!! How'd you manage the switch guards on the environment panel? I'd been toying with the idea of slots & tabs or screws, or simply using little "u" bolts (or just forgetting them completely).

Interesting that the firmware is a later version than available through their updater ... I really am unhappy that they aren't being more informative. Their product is so niche, that you'd think they'd have better community support. I agree completely with you, Blackrat - my first throttle went belly-up, but I'm not treating this one any different ... at $400(+), I shouldn't have to baby it.

Those are wsitch handles for the oxy regulator panel. Do I win a free set? LOL

Well familiar with Helios, I am ... and this should be perfect with it, adding physical switched to be used for whatever function desired.

Wow that looks cool. Hey Flim - do you guys well just the formed ACES back, without the full seat kit?

Those look REALLY nice, pitbldr! I will definitely be interested in a set of knobs. Fantastic work all around.

Can you post the file you edited? The location for your new configuration file (with the screen coordinates for your mfds) should be in the same directory as the original 1 Camera, 3 Camera etc. Also make sure you saved it with the same file extensions.

Yes - the external hub is powered down regularly.

This sounds like a physical defect to me - I'd return it for a replacement.