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Attach velcro to the monitor bezel (plastic outside the screen), and use strips of rubber to pad the MFD edges that cover part of the screen itself - sticking/gluing anything directly to your monitor face is bad juju if you ever want to reposition/change it.

That's the route I went, Cezar ... the most I've done is connecting a couple switches and rotaries to see what happened in the SIOC data. Whenever I actually start getting things put together for good, then I'll be laboring over Oakes's and Y2kiah's threads like a madman again, I'm sure.

Intel DG33FB Throttle & stick connected via externally-powered USB hub. No issues with any other connected device. Admin don't make this sticky; THRUSTMASTER, GIVE US SOME INFO! Thanks. ;)

Yes - mine. I had it connected via an externally-powered hub. My motherboard is an Intel DG33FB (Stop that snickering!):(

That's definitely part of the plan, to make it functional across the board - that's why I'm using Leo's cards - this will simply be seen by the computer as another 'game controller' with 32 buttons. I like the idea of letting users label things themselves, and it'd be easy just to leave it blank and let folks stick on P-touch labels (or whatever). I see modules being sold that are TOO MUCH for what they are, and I'm trying to find a good balance of form/function/cost - especially since I'm not doing anything that the majority of folks here couldn't easily do themselves. There are already GA panels available from OpenCockpits and FlightGear for generic functions like flaps, gear, batteries, etc. ... and that's why I've steered clear of that sort of idea. Perhaps I should re-think ... Teej, the modular cockpit thing was almost exactly what I had in mind - something I see a bunch of folks building (these little panel boxes), to compliment their existing stick & throttle. Since DCS:A-10C is the hottest thing out ATM, that influenced my design. I figured the first box would take care of most "left side" switches beyond the HOTAS, MFDs (and other folks are working on UFCs), while perhaps a second offering would gather most "right side" functions like the CMSP, electrical, etc. (while leaving folks free to complete the various CDU projects already in the works).

I'm sorry if I missed it, Boot - but could you tell us how the painting of the caps went, and what paint you used? It looks good! I'm thinking of getting the white caps, so that once they're painted I can engrave the tops so the engraving comes out white, again.

Yes indeed - Attempt #1 was done with a DOC of 1mm, and I eyeballed zero Z about a half mm above the work - the result was far too deep. I'm enjoying it ... I've got plenty of CAD experience, so most of my learning has been little tips from folks about how to do things right (thank you again!), and figuring out the right balance of doc, spindle speed, and feed rate for the material I'm working with. Really, really cool stuff.

Makes PERFECT sense - thank you! I actually did this by aligning off a pre-drilled mounting hole, but obviously I missed something along the way somewhere. I did the engraving with a 90-degree v-bit. I thought I was being real smart choosing a right angle, but having thought about it more, I probably should have chosen something a little steeper. Since I'm just getting started, I haven't collected a very wide selection of bits, yet.

Thanks, guys! Succellus, all the monitors are 1680x1050; the 3 main are connected via a TH2Go, while the lower one is on the secondary port off the same card. Really, I'm not getting acceptable framerates with all of them running. DCS beta 3 (fullscreen mode on the TH2Go) + Helios on the bottom (NOT exporting the DCS MFDs) has been the best I've achieved. If I put the TH2Go into single-screen mode, then I can run DCS + Helios, including exported DCS MFDs, which is really nice. Beyond that I need to upgrade my hardware. I DO want better than that - I forgot to turn off lean-in and lead-out (I'm still learning!) on the CNC, so 'closed loop' letters like D and O have little 'tails' on them (they kinda look like chipped paint in the picture - you can see them). The alignment of the text is also a bit off, where the bottom labels are closer to the switch than the top labels - a side effect of removing them from the CNC for painting before engraving the text (and not being careful enough to get the positioning right). Other than that, though - yes, I was very pleased - and I probably won't re-do this panel - it's certainly good enough for my generic 'pit. :)

Jetfighter ... the first flight simulator I bought for my 286. Ah, memories ...

TARGET *shouldn't* make any difference ... but I'd certainly reccomend updating to the latest firmware. I doubt the firmware alone is the issue, but it could certainly be a part of it.

I don't plan on leaving the extra space, and I had thought about another version with switches from the other side. Using Leo's cards, and hoping to wire up the gameport, I'm at the limit for inputs. Still, I'd certainly like to make it as functional as possible. I could save quite a bit of time and effort by leaving the switches unlabeled and only wiring up the gameport to support the 3 rudder axes. The boxes themselves haven't arrived yet, so this layout was done on the template I'd made for my simpit panels. BTW, y2kiah, thanks for steering me toward the CNC ... I love it! :D

Here is the CAD design for the front panel. It will be mounted in a simple enclosure. Large holes are for standard-sized toggle switches, similar to those found on the Warthog throttle. Smaller holes are for mini toggle switches or pushbuttons. The pushbutton tops will be fairly close to the same size as pushbuttons on the Warthog.

Thanks for the feedback, Cezar11 ... I know there are other folks working on UFC and CDU panels that I'm sure will be offered for sale - and rather than trying to play catch-up with them, I have been working on other things, and this was the result of some afternoon brainstorming. Again, the switches could be used to control any function, just like assigning standard joystick buttons. And if would make more sense to label them with other text, I'd certainly like to provide as much function as possible. Would it be more appealing if I simply left labels off, so folks could label the switches themselves, and perhaps include more pushbuttons instead of so many toggles? In terms of price, the finished product could be much lower, especially if people would like to label switches for themselves.

Unfortunately, all I have at this stage is a CAD drawing - I'm waiting on the last few parts I need for a prototype. I debated posting anything this early, but I'm hoping to have one finished and ready to ship in about a month. After that, I should be able to crank out at least one a week, as long as I can get parts as smoothly as I have been so far. I'll post my CAD drawing this evening so everyone can take a look. In the meantime, here's a list of the controls I plan to replicate (of course, you could assign them however you wish): Master Arm (3-position toggle switch) GUN/PAC Arm (3-pos toggle) Laser Arm (3-pos toggle) TGP (on/off toggle) CICU (on/off toggle) JRTS (on/off toggle) IFFCC (3-pos toggle) Boost Pumps (4 on/off toggle switches) SAS Engage (4 on/off toggle switches) Lamp Test (pushbutton) T/O Trim (pushbutton) I plan on wiring up the 15-pin gameport so that old rudder pedal controllers like the RCS can simply be plugged in and operate the analog axes available on Leo Bodnar's circuitboard. I'm hoping even OLD gameport controllers like the original ThrustMaster FCS (NOT FLCS) can be plugged in and functional. There will be limitations - newer "smart" sticks like the Suncom Talon and ThrustMaster FLCS will not work, and neither will the 'POV hat' on the old sticks. I have more testing to do in this area, but my goal is to provide a port where RCS or gameport Pro Pedals can simply be plugged in without requiring a separate gameport adapter or the ThrustMaster Cougar. There will also be at least 4 unused analog axes left on Leo's card - so there's room for folks to go in and add/tinker for themselves. Basically I'd like to offer a reasonably priced and functional panel for folks who may not be inclined to build one themselves.

I've been told I should offer this for sale, so I'd like to see if anyone's interested. I'm working on a control box very similar to the ones posted by other folks around here, as a compliment to whichever joystick and throttle you happen to use. I'm using cards from Leo Bodnar, and I'm including a 15-pin gameport for plug-and-play support of old gameport rudder pedals (such as ThrustMaster's RCS). The switches will be assignable just like most joysticks, although the toggle switches will leave buttons "active" until switched off, similar to switches on the Warthog. The panel will contain a selection of switches from the AHCP, FUEL, and various others that I believe will be most helpful. I am, of course, open to suggestions or custom orders. While I have yet to determine a good price, I anticipate it will be no more than $150. This is the first time I've tried anything like this (selling something I've made), so we'll see how it goes. Let me know!

I actually made the mistake of attaching the MFD bezels directly to the monitor face (the screen, not the edge), and then decided to move things around ... monitor survived, but I would NOT recommend it.

HA ... I was the original owner of #935. *sniff* It dropped firmware about 1 week after I received it, was fixed with utilities sent by TM, then hard-bricked about 3 weeks after that. With any luck, the bugs have been worked out. Treat her right! ;) [and to clarify, there was no squeak when I had it - other than the firmware/brick, it was pristine] But I also have to note - that they've attached the serial number plate to the least-integral, easily-swapped part on the thing ... so it's possible (but unlikely) that the only thing you have that I've ever touched is the baseplate. :/

Ok, it's slow going but here's attempt #2 for engraving ...

The Mimo and Liliput monitors do have integrated graphics cards via the USB bus, so they do not require a dedicated video port - thanks for clarifying. Most larger screens will require a port as I said above, but these are two notable exceptions, and only require a free USB port. Using these for touchbuddy would be fine (I should know, I have a Mimo)!

Profiles for Touchbuddy can be scaled to any size touch screen - it just depends on how many buttons you want to have onscreen. The smaller the button, the more buttons onscreen, and the harder it will be to 'hit' each one when trying to click it. Big 'buttons' means easy to touch, but fewer buttons onscreen. Whether using a monitor with a touch screen built-in, or one that is a separate overlay, you will probably need a VGA (or DVI, or DisplayPort, or S-vid, or HDMI) port to run the "monitor" signal, and a USB connection for signals from the touchscreen. Touchbuddy is just one option; it's free, but is limited to keyboard 'input' - meaning a touch on the screen generates a key as if you'd pressed a key (or multiple keys) on the keyboard. It's a great piece of software that I've used quite a bit, though. If you're looking to get information FROM the simulation, to run instrumentation, indicator lights, or things like that, you should check out OpenCockpits/SIOC, Lua, and Helios. You can end up paying very little or quite a bit, depending on what you want to do and how much time/energy you're willing to put into it.

Very nice, RedBaron - thanks for sharing!

I'm not sure I'd be satisfied with 640x480 resolution from the VR glasses - no matter how immersive it may be. IMHO, TrackIR 5 with the pro clip is the way to go.

Only run TARGET & your Black Shark profile when playing Black Shark - don't load TARGET when flying A-10.

I'm surprised touchscreen drivers haven't addressed this issue long ago - I've seen too many setups that could benefit from being able to define which area of the "screen" was covered by a touch sensor. Being able to define the effective area (similar to how digitizing tablets are calibrated) should be a standard option.